Oil Cooler/Oil Filter Housing Gaskets

[kaz02a4]

DISCLAIMER: I am in no way responsible for any damage that you do to your car in the process. This is my first DIY too; hope it helps!

For starters, here's a video (two parts) that I followed just to have a reference. Sorry in advance for the potato phone pictures, and the filthy car, but I hope they do the job. Here are some things you'll need:

• Oil cooler gasket
• Oil filter housing gasket
• Full torx set
• Triple-square set (smaller, to fit a 1/4" driver)
• 13mm and 10mm sockets
• A few different length flat-head screwdrivers
• A philips screwdriver
• A ratchet (best to have a 1/4" and 3/8") plus extensions and universal joints
• A 19mm wrench/socket
• Oil and filter for an oil change
• Coolant
• A bucket for fluids, and cat litter
• Beer!

I ended up needing an angle grinder to remove a stubborn triple-square bolt, but that's just my luck anyway. Ready?

1. You did disconnect that battery, right?


2. Jack the car up and drain the oil. Now would be a good time to change it, so try to wait till you need an oil change for this job.


3. Once the oil is drained, go for the coolant next. It's a knob next to the small nozzle in the pic, which is near the driver's side IC pipe. Turn it left to open the flow; you may need a set of pliers to get in there to turn it.


4. Pull coolant bottle away, towards the front of the car. It's just one philips screw.


5. Undo the hose clamps for the intake manifold pipe, and remove the piece.


6. I undid the throttle body at this point, as well. You can leave it on, but I found it easier to work with it off. You'll also want to remove as many connectors in the area as possible. I pulled at least 5 of them; they should be easy to spot. It's also worth undoing the plastic tie-straps that hold the bundle together. You can either cut them, or pull them apart.


7. I didn't grab a picture of this, but you'll want to pull the cable off the alternator now. It's a 13mm nut that may be under a cover (mine wasn't covered). Unscrew that to free up more slack in the bundle.

8. Now it's time for the two triple-square bolts. They're both on the top side of the oil cooler. The second pic has the bolt already removed.



9. On top of the oil cooler, there are two 10mm nuts that hold a bracket for two connectors. Get those off, then pull the bracket off.


10. There are two torx screws (the second one is removed) that hold coolant lines in place. One is at the thermostat, the other is on top of the engine. Remove those, then pop the hard line out of the thermostat. No coolant should come out at this point.



11. Now you have enough space to get the oil cooler off. There are four 6mm bolts that secure it on. Be prepared for oil and coolant to spill out. There are two bolts on top that secure a bracket in place; make sure that bracket comes out with them. The two bolts on the bottom are easy to get to; use a mirror to find them, or just feel around for them.



12. Pop the oil cooler off! It might be a bit stuck on there, but that's okay. Nothing will get damaged here.


13. Remove the hose that connects the oil filter housing to the PCV.


14. Remove the oil pressure connector. It's towards the back of the oil filter housing.


15. Now you're ready to pull the oil filter housing! Oil and coolant will come out, so be prepared. It's four 10mm bolts that secure it. Once they're undone, pop it off like you did with the oil cooler.


From there, you're pretty much done. I want to point out that there's no need to remove any clamps for the coolant hoses; the guy in the video did, but the hoses on my car are welded to the metal pipes, so I didn't want to try pulling them off. Make sure to replace the gaskets, clean the housing and cooler well, and do everything in the reverse order. Make sure to change the filter while you're at it too. Any questions/tips/changes, feel free to let me know!

[aluthman]

The only think I would add, is that you don't really need to drain your oil to do this. You can simply drain the filter housing and then add ~½ quart back in when you're done.

[kaz02a4]

The only think I would add, is that you don't really need to drain your oil to do this. You can simply drain the filter housing and then add ~½ quart back in when you're done.

True. I thought that draining the oil and coolant would drain the fluids from the oil cooler/oil filter housing. I was very, very wrong. But, I did need to change the oil anyway, so it wasn't a big deal.

[aluthman]

True. I thought that draining the oil and coolant would drain the fluids from the oil cooler/oil filter housing. I was very, very wrong. But, I did need to change the oil anyway, so it wasn't a big deal.

That's funny, I thought the same thing about pulling my turbo yesterday. NOPE, huge mess everywhere.

[brandonpham]

Great job, I'll use it as a reference to save some time lol. Very simple for anyone with decent knowledge. Surprised no one had done a prior DIY for these.

[kaz02a4]

That's funny, I thought the same thing about pulling my turbo yesterday. NOPE, huge mess everywhere.

Sorry to hear man. How did the rest of the job go at least?

Great job, I'll use it as a reference to save some time lol. Very simple for anyone with decent knowledge. Surprised no one had done a prior DIY for these.

Thanks! I was surprised too, I couldn't find any DIY other than that video. It is pretty straightforward, just as long as you take your time.

I really hate G12 now though. It gets everywhere, it's slick, and sometimes it's a pain to bleed the coolant system.

[brandonpham]

Sorry to hear man. How did the rest of the job go at least?



Thanks! I was surprised too, I couldn't find any DIY other than that video. It is pretty straightforward, just as long as you take your time.

I really hate G12 now though. It gets everywhere, it's slick, and sometimes it's a pain to bleed the coolant system.

With you on that bleeding issue. I had to purge the tank several times to get those damn fans to kick on and the thermostat to open. It was just so slow when bleeding. Otherwise coolant system in my car has been clean. I had my local Audi dealer price match online so i matched coolant prices and other things.

[kaz02a4]

With you on that bleeding issue. I had to purge the tank several times to get those damn fans to kick on and the thermostat to open. It was just so slow when bleeding. Otherwise coolant system in my car has been clean. I had my local Audi dealer price match online so i matched coolant prices and other things.

How did you purge it? Crack the bleeder screw on the top of the hard coolant pipe, run the car with the tank cap off, or pull the heater core hose?

Mine has purged fine so far (fingers crossed it stays that way).

[pat_do]

Can a moderator pin this to the DIY?

[kaz02a4]

Can a moderator pin this to the DIY?

Hope this gets added to the DIYs, and I hope that it helps people!

[aluthman]

Sorry to hear man. How did the rest of the job go at least?

Well, I had to remove/reinstall the turbo twice in two days if that tells you anything. I'm getting pretty good at it.

[kaz02a4]

Well, I had to remove/reinstall the turbo twice in two days if that tells you anything. I'm getting pretty good at it.

That's brutal. Did you finally get it sorted out?

[pat_do]

Best DIY ever since i asked kristokes to sticky it

[ktish]

How did you purge it? Crack the bleeder screw on the top of the hard coolant pipe, run the car with the tank cap off, or pull the heater core hose?

Mine has purged fine so far (fingers crossed it stays that way).

Would 100% recommend the Airlift II coolant system refiller for anyone who has trouble with bleeding. Easy to use. Bled my father's elise first time no issues. The diesel guys swear by them too as I believe the duramax motors are notorious for holding air bubbles.

[aluthman]

That's brutal. Did you finally get it sorted out?

Ya, it works fine now.

[David08A4]

Just an FYI i know its a Ten MM for the Oil Filter Housing bolt but i found the allen can work better for the top too, especially if the allen you have is a 1/4 drive.

[allstock]

This was a to-do this summer before it happens. Now it's official that it has to be done. Wondering if the whole unit should be changed as well.

[Denio24]

Would 100% recommend the Airlift II coolant system refiller for anyone who has trouble with bleeding. Easy to use. Bled my father's elise first time no issues. The diesel guys swear by them too as I believe the duramax motors are notorious for holding air bubbles.

No need for a vacuum fill tool. About 99% of the time i just remove the upper coolant bleed port and squeeze the upper radiator hose, plug the bleed port, let go of the rad hose, and unplug the bleed port with your finger. This way you create vacuum without expensive tools and saves time setting up equipment. Do this simultaneously until coolant overflows in the bleed port.

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[mjfrizz]

Is draining all coolant necessary?

With a hose clamp or two I was thinking I would be able to drain just enough

I have parts ready for the morning. Already detached/moved most of the crap necessary, annoying

[mjfrizz]

Seemed like about a quart of coolant drained out from coolant pipe/hoses and oil cooler. So doing this without draining entire system is possible, but I don't think it saved much time. Still have to purge system no matter what.
Not difficult job, just annoying, particularly for coolant connections. Those rubber hose to pipe joints always suck, especially after 120k miles.
Many thanks to OP for the help.

[aviator79]

I sure wish all the pics where still here. About to attempt this.

edit on reload more pics showed up.

[aviator79]

Im assuming the only way that coolant gets in oil/oil in coolant is if turbo fails, oil cooler fails of HG fails?

Edit, seems that coolant is not brown, just looks brown in blue bucket. Oil looks OK so think I am fine.

Have to get 6mm triple square.

[pezgoon]

Im assuming the only way that coolant gets in oil/oil in coolant is if turbo fails, oil cooler fails of HG fails?

Edit, seems that coolant is not brown, just looks brown in blue bucket. Oil looks OK so think I am fine.

Have to get 6mm triple square.

I know this was a while ago just wanted to clarify for future peoples that our turbos are NOT coolant cooled, they are oil cooled so no a failing turbo does not get coolant in your oil or vice versa

Also just wanted to point out coolant and oil mixing is very clear as it looks like yellow milk, you would most certainly see something was up and would not look anything like coolant nor oil, oil and water mixes to a whitish yellowish milky substance


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[Okedokey]

I know this was a while ago just wanted to clarify for future peoples that our turbos are NOT coolant cooled, they are oil cooled so no a failing turbo does not get coolant in your oil or vice versa

Also just wanted to point out coolant and oil mixing is very clear as it looks like yellow milk, you would most certainly see something was up and would not look anything like coolant nor oil, oil and water mixes to a whitish yellowish milky substance


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The turbo has coolant and oil lines right?

[canadianA4B7]

The turbo has coolant and oil lines right?

I'm about 500% sure that all of my turbo swaps have included removal or replacement of both oil and coolant lines on the turbo.

If a chra physically cracks internally oil and coolant can mix. In a combustion engine without any oil froth reduction (baffle pan, external oil pump) your engine oil itself can become brownish yellow nasty looking crap. This whitish yellow milky stuff can also happen due to pcv or crankcase pressures not being its best (frozen/full catch can) this creates condensation in the engine and can resemble oil/coolant mixture. anyone one running a catch can will be able to simply test this themselves. Being winter start your car and remove oil fill cap, while the system warms up you likely see yellow/white/milky stuff on the inside of the oil cap. Usually once the system is hot and pcv lines thaw this milky shit goes away.

[pezgoon]

The turbo has coolant and oil lines right?

I'm about 500% sure that all of my turbo swaps have included removal or replacement of both oil and coolant lines on the turbo.

If a chra physically cracks internally oil and coolant can mix. In a combustion engine without any oil froth reduction (baffle pan, external oil pump) your engine oil itself can become brownish yellow nasty looking crap. This whitish yellow milky stuff can also happen due to pcv or crankcase pressures not being its best (frozen/full catch can) this creates condensation in the engine and can resemble oil/coolant mixture. anyone one running a catch can will be able to simply test this themselves. Being winter start your car and remove oil fill cap, while the system warms up you likely see yellow/white/milky stuff on the inside of the oil cap. Usually once the system is hot and pcv lines thaw this milky shit goes away.

It does?? I thought I'd only seen oil lines going into it, although I have never pulled mine out I will have to take a look this evening ha

So why didn't they just make it 100% coolant so that it wouldn't cook the oil and put the engine at risk of various issues from it doing so lol


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[Theiceman]

The only thing I will add is you are 95% of the way there in labor to replace the thermostat and you have the coolant drained so I would definitely do this at the same time given the rate our stats fail. in fact if I had read this when I replaced my stat I would have done these two seals in a heartbeat.

[mtroxel]

Seemed like about a quart of coolant drained out from coolant pipe/hoses and oil cooler. So doing this without draining entire system is possible, but I don't think it saved much time. Still have to purge system no matter what.

Have the parts, about to do this. Question: when you finally pull the oil cooler off the block, does much oil and coolant mix?

Meaning, if you are as picky about coolant purity as I am, will I want to flush and change the coolant? Or can I just use a wet dry vac and suck the oil-contaminated coolant out of the opening in the block brefore I put the cooler/gasket back on?

[mtroxel]

Finally did this yesterday. Not hard, just time consuming and boring.

My only tip? When the oil cooler comes off and a bracket drops to the floor in a puddle of coolant - don't say f***k it I'll get it later - then wonder why you can't get it back together until you finally look under the car and say, "f***k it, I remember that dropping an hour ago.

[aluthman]

Have the parts, about to do this. Question: when you finally pull the oil cooler off the block, does much oil and coolant mix?

Meaning, if you are as picky about coolant purity as I am, will I want to flush and change the coolant? Or can I just use a wet dry vac and suck the oil-contaminated coolant out of the opening in the block brefore I put the cooler/gasket back on?

I've done this a couple times on various cars now, and I try to time it with an oil change. I only ever just top off the coolant and have never seen any evidence of oil mixing with coolant as a result.

[aluthman]

It does?? I thought I'd only seen oil lines going into it, although I have never pulled mine out I will have to take a look this evening ha

So why didn't they just make it 100% coolant so that it wouldn't cook the oil and put the engine at risk of various issues from it doing so lol


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Turbos are water cooled on our cars. The oil is there for lubrication (it provides a little cooling also) and the coolant makes sure it doesn't get hot enough to cook the oil. The coolant can actually circulate by itself after the car is shut off. This makes a turbo timer a useless addition to our cars.

[mtroxel]

I only ever just top off the coolant and have never seen any evidence of oil mixing with coolant as a result.

That was my impression too. When the cooler was hanging by that hose, the coolant dripped out of its hole but it wasn't above an oil passage. I'd be surprised if I lost more than a couple cups of coolant.

coolant can actually circulate by itself after the car is shut off.

Is that just a percolation action?

[pezgoon]

Turbos are water cooled on our cars. The oil is there for lubrication (it provides a little cooling also) and the coolant makes sure it doesn't get hot enough to cook the oil. The coolant can actually circulate by itself after the car is shut off. This makes a turbo timer a useless addition to our cars.

Interesting, last turbo I had was only oil cooled and so I didn't realize ours was water cooled.

How can it circulate by itself? Is there a separate electric water pump?


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[aviator79]

Just did seals and still leaking so got a URO after market housing to fix properly. Going to drain oil as needs to be changed but how much coolant will I loose?

This time I am not draining coolant from bottom by radiator. Will more come out if I dont? Reading posts above seems not need to drain

Seemed like about a quart of coolant drained out from coolant pipe/hoses and oil cooler

Do I need to drain overflow tank? pinch off any lines? I just dont recall where the lines from from so not sure if all the coolant can drain out down to the level of the cooler or what...

I have 1.5 qt of what I assume is unmixed G13, so 3qt mixed. Hope that will be enough to top back off. Of course if I mixed water in jug and did not label it a 50/50 mix for some stupid reason than I will only have 1.5 qt not 3qt of mix. Assuming I will be able to tell difference by pouring some out as should be darker pink if not mixed.

Cant see pictures again. Not sure how they showed up when I reloaded as i posted. Maybe a glitch. I should be able to figure it out as I did it before.

Going to go buy a tray to catch all the fluid as I just cleaned my garage floor.

[aviator79]

Comparing URO housing to old OEM it looks about the same. Noticed inserts for housing bolts were not all flush where meets block like oem so you need to be sure not to over tighten as you wont get a solid stop like oem.

Main worry is obviously valves but hope they work as no way to test.

[aviator79]

Comes with filter and gaskets. URO on left. MANN on right. Looks ok. More pleats but material thicker and less support attopand bottom. Certainly less surface area and likelymore restrictive. Save for emergency.

Gaskets are probably fine. Im using them. Pulled them out to oil.

Note pressure sensor must be transfered. 24mm deep socket. No o-ring even thou looks likethere should be one.

Filter cartrage housing seems solid. Will save old one just in case.

[aviator79]

Looks already diluted. Dont have neq bottle of concentate to compare to. But think i already mixed water and forgot to lable.

[aviator79]

Pan saved me from a huge mess. Why i never bought one before idk.
$12 at HD.

Coolant loss is 6 cups or 1.5qt.

[fallingreason]

Was dreading this job, but after going through the DIY a few times it doesn't look too bad. Tight engine work jut scares me sometimes.

2 questions:

Is this done entirely from the top of the engine bay, with the exception of draining/catching fluids?

What extra work is needed to change out the thermostat? Just removal of the other lines? I have one on hand and will do a coolant flush as I'm due anyhow.

TIA

[newa42me]

Is the URO oil filter housing assembly a sufficient replacement? or should we get OEM part?