Royal purple or Liquid Molly?

[Itsallstock!]

Any thoughts? What would you prefer to run in your B5?

[rodgertherabit]

rotella

[Mad Cow]

Liqui Moly all day any day, that's some of the best stuff on the market. RP is pretty good but not even close to worth the price.

[Believer]

I got spoiled from buying Rotella. Bought Liqui Moly once and even that felt expensive compared to the T6.

[R490]

Regular oil that doesn't sound like:

A. An alcoholic beverage.
B. A party drug.

[harrowb5]

Motul 5w-40 if you can find it

[redline380]

Am I the only one who doesn't know which fluid he is talking about? Could be engine oil, or trans/rear end fluid. And my opinion would be drastically different

[B5nDisciple]

Motul 5w-40 if you can find it

That's what I run.

[Mad Cow]

Motul 5w-40 if you can find it

Liqui moly is better than anything motul puts out, not a big difference but it's there. For the price motul's a better buy though.

[Itsallstock!]

Am I the only one who doesn't know which fluid he is talking about? Could be engine oil, or trans/rear end fluid. And my opinion would be drastically different

Engine oil.
Would anybody's choice/opinion change based on:

1) turbo vs non turbo
2) big turbo vs small turbo
3) stock tune vs stage 1,2,3+ tune

[redline380]

For engine oil, who the fuck cares? There's about 959,458 threads about the best oil to run.

Here's my suggestion on engine oil- get the slippery stuff.

The most important thing you can do with engine oil is change it regularly. Shitty oil changed often is better than the best oil changed every 10k.

[Koldham]

. Shitty oil changed often is better than the best oil changed every 10k.

finally somebody says it. FINALLY!

[Itsallstock!]

I'm not familiar with the Rotella T6 but this is what I found after googled it:

Damn...new oil thread. Rotella T6 full synthetic NOT for use in automobiles per Shell
I read many excellent reviews of Shell Rotella T6 wide-viscosity, full-synthetic heavy duty motor oil which fares well against all comers including Valvoline, Mobil one, etc. Iy is cheap at $21 bucks a gallon and when ordering 3 gallons, shipping to your home is free and those shopping at Wal-Mart know how hard it is to get anything in stock besides 10W-30. If you want 5W-40 0r 10W-50 on the shelf, forget it. By ordering 3 gallons at a time, you can get any viscosity you want and free shipping to your door. I have used Rotella T6 full synthetic in my 540 with great results. Admitted, I don't pay enough attention to specs on jugs. It is on Wal-Marts shelf right between Valvoline full synthetic and Mobile One. Jug say heavy duty Engine oil. I have older jugs that also say just HD engine oil. Now, ad on Wal-Mart shows just like my old jugs, the case that arrived at my door shows jugs saying HD engine oil, but upon opening case, the jugs NOW say HD DIESEL engine oil. I called Shell for their take and their official stance and I have email with man's name at Shell saying in no uncertain terms that Rotella T6 is for off road vehicles only such as diesel tractors. They claim Heavy Duty is synonymous with DIESEL and that since the year 200 when new federal phosphate regulations came into play, they officially do NOT recommend this oil for any automobile bearing a catalytic convertor. I know Wal-Mart is not aware of this and gives expensive shelf space in the automotive oil section. Lesson is to read specs, but Shell is purposely allowing consumers to belief their oil is automotive safe. Shell guy said you must switch to Pennzoil products to get a shell full synthetic for cars.

I know many swear by the pil spec. and would not use full syn. even in a 528, but Rotella is guilty of being misleading at best. Maybe BMW owners should be more savvy and spec oriented, but what about Joe Chevy owner who has no idea of the oil spec for his Cavalier and buys this. Do they really expect the average user to be able to recite their oil spec? My Bad completely, but I also think Shell is making absolutely bo attempt to indicate this is for diesel engines, farm tractors, etc,. Not for on-road vehicles. I have the official response which skirts the issue, but essentially says what I am telling you. Anyone else use Rotella T6 full synthetic in their non M5 cars?

Any thoughts?

[Mad Cow]

For engine oil, who the fuck cares? There's about 959,458 threads about the best oil to run.

Here's my suggestion on engine oil- get the slippery stuff.

The most important thing you can do with engine oil is change it regularly. Shitty oil changed often is better than the best oil changed every 10k.

I gotta disagree on that, good oil protects the motor better regardless of interval. It's all about the additives, not just OCI's.

[redline380]

I gotta disagree on that, good oil protects the motor better regardless of interval. It's all about the additives, not just OCI's.

I'm not suggesting to go out and run $0.99 havoline. No one will do that. But when it comes down to RP or Motul or whatever, who cares? I can guaran-damn-tee you an engine has never had a failure due to the synthetic oil they used.

People get so uptight about what oil they use. Who cares? Not like the engine is going to explode because I ran Rotella instead of my usual $60/jug German shit. Like I said, get the slippery shit, change it often, and use a decent filter. The end.

[Believer]

I say if it's that important to folks, experiment and get a few different types analyzed by Black Stone. Equal intervals and relatively similiar driving conditions should give a pretty decent picture of each oil vs another.

[Itsallstock!]

Definitely not going to run the $1 stuff but you are saying a synthetic is a synthetic and high performance mods don't need the super expensive oil in order to operate at their full potential?

[Avant Nate]

I'm not familiar with the Rotella T6 but this is what I found after googled it:

Damn...new oil thread. Rotella T6 full synthetic NOT for use in automobiles per Shell
I read many excellent reviews of Shell Rotella T6 wide-viscosity, full-synthetic heavy duty motor oil which fares well against all comers including Valvoline, Mobil one, etc. Iy is cheap at $21 bucks a gallon and when ordering 3 gallons, shipping to your home is free and those shopping at Wal-Mart know how hard it is to get anything in stock besides 10W-30. If you want 5W-40 0r 10W-50 on the shelf, forget it. By ordering 3 gallons at a time, you can get any viscosity you want and free shipping to your door. I have used Rotella T6 full synthetic in my 540 with great results. Admitted, I don't pay enough attention to specs on jugs. It is on Wal-Marts shelf right between Valvoline full synthetic and Mobile One. Jug say heavy duty Engine oil. I have older jugs that also say just HD engine oil. Now, ad on Wal-Mart shows just like my old jugs, the case that arrived at my door shows jugs saying HD engine oil, but upon opening case, the jugs NOW say HD DIESEL engine oil. I called Shell for their take and their official stance and I have email with man's name at Shell saying in no uncertain terms that Rotella T6 is for off road vehicles only such as diesel tractors. They claim Heavy Duty is synonymous with DIESEL and that since the year 200 when new federal phosphate regulations came into play, they officially do NOT recommend this oil for any automobile bearing a catalytic convertor. I know Wal-Mart is not aware of this and gives expensive shelf space in the automotive oil section. Lesson is to read specs, but Shell is purposely allowing consumers to belief their oil is automotive safe. Shell guy said you must switch to Pennzoil products to get a shell full synthetic for cars.

I know many swear by the pil spec. and would not use full syn. even in a 528, but Rotella is guilty of being misleading at best. Maybe BMW owners should be more savvy and spec oriented, but what about Joe Chevy owner who has no idea of the oil spec for his Cavalier and buys this. Do they really expect the average user to be able to recite their oil spec? My Bad completely, but I also think Shell is making absolutely bo attempt to indicate this is for diesel engines, farm tractors, etc,. Not for on-road vehicles. I have the official response which skirts the issue, but essentially says what I am telling you. Anyone else use Rotella T6 full synthetic in their non M5 cars
Any thoughts?

So I went and read that forum, and the take away is that is that Rotella T6 has high levels of phosphorus and zinc. Bad for catalytic convertors, good for reducing wear. Thats why its labeled as diesel oil.
I've used T6 for the last 60K for what its worth.

[B5nDisciple]

Liqui moly is better than anything motul puts out, not a big difference but it's there. For the price motul's a better buy though.

I've been reading about these two oils, and it seems both companies have switched between groups 3 and 4, making it difficult to really say which is "better". The more I read about these companies and how they market a group IV oil even though it isn't, the more I lean toward not caring what particular type I run and focus more on OCI's. Just my thoughts though.

[Believer]

So I went and read that forum, and the take away is that is that Rotella T6 has high levels of phosphorus and zinc. Bad for catalytic convertors, good for reducing wear. Thats why its labeled as diesel oil.
I've used T6 for the last 60K for what its worth.

That's interesting info. I guess the level of 'harm' that it can cause would directly relate to how much oil the vehicle burns. I know my A4, which is down for project mode now, was burning a decent bit. I wonder if it did any damage to my HFC..

[rodgertherabit]

So I went and read that forum, and the take away is that is that Rotella T6 has high levels of phosphorus and zinc. Bad for catalytic convertors, good for reducing wear. Thats why its labeled as diesel oil.
I've used T6 for the last 60K for what its worth.

yeah, all that I saw was its not good for a catalytic converter... IMO we might as well look at our engines as diesels lol. Turbo'd,High temps, High pressures, lots of abuse. Unless the "automotive" grade bearing are drastically different in composition and will disintegrate with contact of Rotella...(sarcasm) I dont think there is any danger lol

Ive been running it for a few years on several cars and was suggested by a few hardcore 1.8t power guys. I ran mobil1... I wasnt impressed.

Oil is pretty important aside from basic lubrication and heat dissipation. In general terms, better oil will reduce overall friction... thus increasing Power. This is why big power blocks use special aftermarket rings (maybe bearings) that reduce overall parasitic drag from the internal components (and proper assembly clearances).

[Seerlah]

I used to run nothing but amsoil and a rep on bitog recommended me to run their hdeo for my application over their euro blend. With that being said, been using rotella t6 for a while now. There is a difference between a heavy duty diesel engine oil and a diesel "only" engine oil.

[seanf86]

Rotella is still API rated for gasoline engines. At the end of the day the B5 is 15+ years old, unless you have mega bucks dumped into it, Rotella T6 or any VW 502 oil will be fine, get whatever gives you the best value for your money. I run Rotella, Castrol 0w40, M1 0w40. Whatevers on sale when the time comes to change my oil.

[Seerlah]

They say it's not good to switch between oils. That the one you choose is the one you should stick with.

[tar]

Previous owner ran 0w40 m1.

I'm going to motul 15w50. socal and barely see below 60 and its not my daily.

[Seerlah]

That oil is way too thick. Stay with 5w40.

[Mad Cow]

They say it's not good to switch between oils. That the one you choose is the one you should stick with.

"they" are wrong. Your motor doesn't care about the slight differences in formulations.

[RoadRage]

I use dinosaur oil.

[p0isin]

From a T-Rex or Brontosaurus?

[harrowb5]

i use dinosaur oil.

buhahahahahahahaha