Passenger door won't lock

[SejRamkas]

Anyone had an issue with one door not locking? Not a whole lot of info online but it seems like an issue with the actuator? Also seems like a costly fix at the dealer. Anyone know where you can find a replacement part and possibly a diy for this?

[SejRamkas]

Just as an update I have noticed if I roll the window up and down while I'm in the car it will normally fix it. I'm thinking loose connection. Thoughts? I have heard the soldered connections can crack and become intermittent....

[Classy]

I as well as a few others 'round here have experienced the same issue.
One gent got his replaced under warranty.
My rear passenger door was not locking, and would not "chirp" when I locked the door. The door would not lock, but the alarm would arm. (and if that one door was opened, the alarm would go off).

Anyway, my problem was the actuator. (as you mentioned) I never experienced the window rolling down phenomenon as you explained.
I never replaced mine as I dont live in a risky area. And as the weather turned warmer, it started working as its supposed to again.
I would not take it to the dealer. But not sure how well you turn a wrench or how deep your pockets are.

ECS as well as other suppliers sell them:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_A4-.../Door/Locking/

[Project Quattro]

^ My situation was similar to the above, but the issue ended up being the latch itself. I'd try lock the car with the fob and it wouldn't chirp and the LEDs would flash differently from normal. The other three doors would lock but that one wouldn't, and the alarm wouldn't sound if the unlocked door was opened.

[SejRamkas]

LEDs flash rapidly about 6 times then stay solid. Noticed the first time I opened the door it started beeping like the alarm was gonna sound so I shut the door and hit the unlock button. Now when I open the door it doesn't do this. This combined with the window thing is why I'm thinking a loose connection somewhere? If it keeps doing it I'll have to pull off the door panel and investigate.

Is there a way to scan codes and see if it's the latch or actuator?

[NPuter]

One of my rear doors began not locking a few weeks ago. I would have to open/close the door multiple times to finally get it to lock.
The issue only lasted a day or two, and it has been fine ever since.

[biserker1]

I'm planning on replacing the actuator myself and writing a DIY - will prob be next month as my kids soccer season has started and my weekends are booked!

[AutoRacer100]

I am having the same problem with my rear driver side door. . The problem is gone during warm weather and the problem is back again when the temp hit below 50f. Can someone help?

[audrobotic]

I am having the same problem with my rear driver side door. . The problem is gone during warm weather and the problem is back again when the temp hit below 50f. Can someone help?

There was another recent thread here about this issue. This video seemed to help the problem:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lzAAQSgoTYo

[AutoRacer100]

There was another recent thread here about this issue. This video seemed to help the problem:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lzAAQSgoTYo

Thanks so much audrobotic. I will give it a try.


Wow.... it really works. I am hearing the lovely chirping sound when locking the doors.

Hopefully the issue won't come back again.

[AutoRacer100]

It is sad to report. The issue is back. Now I have to carry a screw driver to turn that door lock adjuster when the door stopped locking each time. The issue came back after a few hours of fixing the issue. So is it really the lock actuator needs to be replaced?

[WarmFuzzies]

I've done this before. It's easy and takes an hour. But yes you need to replace the part.

Used a brand new oem actuator from the dealer ($220ish) and you need to buy a 12-point socket set to undue the bolt securing the actuator to the door.

PM me if you need details.


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[audrobotic]

bummer!

you could roll the dice on a used one for about 90 bucks (wolf auto parts) or new one for about $200+.

[AutoRacer100]

How do I remove the door panel (trim) and what other tools do I need besides 12 points socket set?

ECS tuning is selling actuator for close to $300.

[elscotto80]

It is sad to report. The issue is back. Now I have to carry a screw driver to turn that door lock adjuster when the door stopped locking each time. The issue came back after a few hours of fixing the issue. So is it really the lock actuator needs to be replaced?

Just use your key, take it out of the fob and it will turn that actuator. I am having the same problem and need to scan and see what's what. Seems like the actuator needs to be replaced.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[WarmFuzzies]

How do I remove the door panel (trim) and what other tools do I need besides 12 points socket set?

ECS tuning is selling actuator for close to $300.

I'd just order it from a dealership in your area -- mine was less than what ECS was selling it for. Check online via the dealer website as it's usually less than if you called or went in person

For other tools you'll need:
- flathead screwdriver (to pry door card and pop off door; also need this to remove trim strip)
-t20/t25 torx bit (there's about 5 holding the door card on)
-12 point socket (forget which size but if you get a set it'll be in there)

I believe that's it.




Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

[audrobotic]

its about $230 at online Audi dealers, about $260 at FCP Euro which gives you a lifetime warranty

[AutoRacer100]

I'm surprised to find out the lock actuator needs to replaced. The lock actuator usually is not a part that breaks in a car? I don't even drive the car much (2010 with 34k miles). Is the door actuator fail associated with bad design of the part similar to the water pump in our cars? If so, a brand new lock actuator should have been redesigned for better durability and reliability?

[audrobotic]

I'm surprised to find out the lock actuator needs to replaced. The lock actuator usually is not a part that breaks in a car? I don't even drive the car much (2010 with 34k miles). Is the door actuator fail associated with bad design of the part similar to the water pump in our cars? If so, a brand new lock actuator should have been redesigned for better durability and reliability?

Well Audis and other european makes are generally not known for not breaking. It’s kind of what they do. For whatever inexplicable reason there are often a lot of weak points (or weak links) that are due to poor design or poor oversight/quality control of parts manufacturers. I’ve heard the argument that German engineers over-complicate and re-invent the the wheel. But who knows.

As far as door actuators - it could have been some of things I mentioned above, but also it seems pretty common for these to fail on a lot of makes. I had an 2006 civic that had one go bad in only a couple years. I had another not-very-old honda have the door window motor go bad. I’ve heard that these type of motors/parts can go bad from not enough use.

Audi (like all makes) is always updating parts - but I would doubt the latest door actuator off the shelf is fundamentally any better. Sometime parts just die way too young. A replacement may last for 20 years.

[elscotto80]

I scanned mine today and have the following code:

Address 52: Door Elect, Pass. (J387) Labels:. 8K0-959-792.clb
Part No SW: 8K0 959 792 H HW: 8K0 959 792 D
Component: TSG BF H11 0306
Revision: Serial number: 0000009398983
Coding: 011C03204C00410001
Shop #: WSC 02391 823 56573
VCID: 448C4061C74BF20AD81-8010

1 Fault Found:
02115 - Locking Unit for Central Locking
008 - Implausible Signal
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101000
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 5
Reset counter: 15
Mileage: 159465 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.11.13
Time: 06:44:07


The actuator will unlock the door, but it will not lock it without me turning the manual lock on the side of the door. Also i noticed that the automatic locks will lock, but the lights on each button are not red, likely due to the door not locking. I also seem to hear the locks try to re-lock every 10 minutes when driving. Additionally, i am hearing a bit of a rattle from the door, so maybe something has come loose. i think i will just need to order a new actuator and replace it. Anyone have the same code before and replaced the locking mechanism? Was that the fix or was it something else?

[bloosqr]

How did you get that scan? My actuator blew about a month ago (A4/B8/2009) but as I didn't see any service light, I didn't think to check. That said it was pretty obvious it was the actuator since the passenger front door stopped working. My OBD scanner is blue driver and am just curious if there is a better one out there.

I scanned mine today and have the following code:

Address 52: Door Elect, Pass. (J387) Labels:. 8K0-959-792.clb
Part No SW: 8K0 959 792 H HW: 8K0 959 792 D
Component: TSG BF H11 0306
Revision: Serial number: 0000009398983
Coding: 011C03204C00410001
Shop #: WSC 02391 823 56573
VCID: 448C4061C74BF20AD81-8010

1 Fault Found:
02115 - Locking Unit for Central Locking
008 - Implausible Signal
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101000
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 5
Reset counter: 15
Mileage: 159465 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2017.11.13
Time: 06:44:07


The actuator will unlock the door, but it will not lock it without me turning the manual lock on the side of the door. Also i noticed that the automatic locks will lock, but the lights on each button are not red, likely due to the door not locking. I also seem to hear the locks try to re-lock every 10 minutes when driving. Additionally, i am hearing a bit of a rattle from the door, so maybe something has come loose. i think i will just need to order a new actuator and replace it. Anyone have the same code before and replaced the locking mechanism? Was that the fix or was it something else?

[elscotto80]

How did you get that scan? My actuator blew about a month ago (A4/B8/2009) but as I didn't see any service light, I didn't think to check. That said it was pretty obvious it was the actuator since the passenger front door stopped working. My OBD scanner is blue driver and am just curious if there is a better one out there.

With my rosstech vagcom. A generic obd scanner will do you no good troubleshooting these kinds of issues.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[Novarider]

How did you get that scan? My actuator blew about a month ago (A4/B8/2009) but as I didn't see any service light, I didn't think to check. That said it was pretty obvious it was the actuator since the passenger front door stopped working. My OBD scanner is blue driver and am just curious if there is a better one out there.

https://www.europaparts.com/general/...eat-skoda.html

[bloosqr]

With my rosstech vagcom. A generic obd scanner will do you no good troubleshooting these kinds of issues.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Wow! Thanks for the heads up!

Avi

[Jhearty99]

I am having the same issue in my 2011 A5 with the passenger door lock. I bought a new actuator but haven't gotten around to installing it yet.

However, I wanted to point out that I was able to purchase mine from a Porsche dealer for significantly less. Same part number from Audi so no idea why it is cheaper. Example: Part number 8J1837016F through Audi is $241.67. I purchased from Byers Porsche Parts for $113.46.

The Porsche part is even cheaper through ECS if you search. Not sure if different for the A4 but worth looking into.

[AutoRacer100]

Just an update. I played with that lock switch on the door and removed the black rubber cap with a lock emblem on it. So far the locking issue hasn't came back since Black Friday.

[elscotto80]

I took mine apart yesterday and just finished putting it all back together. I decided to try and clean the motor within the actuator rather than buy a whole new unit. All of the mechanical parts were fine, it seems like the little motor is usually the issue. I blew some compressed air into it. Got it back on and it seems to be working great. Hopefully it lasts. Taking apart the door was a pain but very doable.

[jaguate]

I took mine apart yesterday and just finished putting it all back together. I decided to try and clean the motor within the actuator rather than buy a whole new unit. All of the mechanical parts were fine, it seems like the little motor is usually the issue. I blew some compressed air into it. Got it back on and it seems to be working great. Hopefully it lasts. Taking apart the door was a pain but very doable.

Do you have a link or video to show how to take the door apart? It looks like I will have to work on the door actuator as well.

Thank you!

[elscotto80]

Do you have a link or video to show how to take the door apart? It looks like I will have to work on the door actuator as well.

Thank you!

There are a few on YouTube, start there. From what I recall, it's five or six torx screws then pull the bottom and sides of the door card. Unplug the harness and release the door latch. Two t12 or10 bolts hold the actuator to the door frame. You need to release the outside door handle cable from the actuator and inside cable too.

Work the actuator out of the door(little bit of wiggling) and it's out. Take apart the assembly and clean the motor contacts and blow some air in it.

Hope that helps!

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

[GilliamOS]

Do you have a link or video to show how to take the door apart? It looks like I will have to work on the door actuator as well.

Thank you!

I have a post with detailed instructions and pictures. Look it up in my post history.

[JohnnyA41.8]

I have check my 05 A4 B6 and I don’t think it has that extra lock any idea what else could be the problem if not then I guess I need to buy a new actuator and not a used one.

[Romuloux]

I had this issue come up on my passenger front door. It would lock reliably, but would not unlock. Only way to open the door would be to pull the interior handle.

Removed the actuator, then pulled it apart and got the little electric motor out. Powered by a 9-volt battery, it would turn but was very notchy, like the brushes were losing contact with the commutator.

I sprayed contact cleaner in the little ports on the side of the motor and turned it by hand. Lots and lots of dust wept out of it. Put it back together after drying and the actuator now has a solid thump like it should and door is now locking/unlocking fine.

The inside of the actuator is actually not very complex and there is very little to go wrong outside of the motor. Lots of plastic arms that are on springs, so be gentle if you do decide to pull it apart.

[Theiceman]

I had this issue come up on my passenger front door. It would lock reliably, but would not unlock. Only way to open the door would be to pull the interior handle.

Removed the actuator, then pulled it apart and got the little electric motor out. Powered by a 9-volt battery, it would turn but was very notchy, like the brushes were losing contact with the commutator.

I sprayed contact cleaner in the little ports on the side of the motor and turned it by hand. Lots and lots of dust wept out of it. Put it back together after drying and the actuator now has a solid thump like it should and door is now locking/unlocking fine.

The inside of the actuator is actually not very complex and there is very little to go wrong outside of the motor. Lots of plastic arms that are on springs, so be gentle if you do decide to pull it apart.

yeah and take lots of pics as you go :)

[Black Jack]

Hey all - I too encountered the issue of one door refusing to lock and went ahead and swapped in a new actuator, after doing some basic testing. The process is super simple and if you're not screwing around with a camera, would only take you 15 mins front to back when you're all ready to work. If you need some pointers to pop off the trim or compare your symptoms to, here's my documentation of the job:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2dtCyof3-s