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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Jun 08 2014
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    Cant loosen CV axle bolts

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    I'm pulling the engine to do head gaskets and cant manage to get the 6 triple square bolts off. I've sprayed it with pb blaster a few times and still nothing. We've been using air tools with a long extension trying to get it and it hasnt budged. Its actually starting to ruin the triple square... Are these reverse thread bolts perhaps or is there something else I can do to get them loose? We dont have propane either so thats out of the question. I'm trying to get this finished this weekend before school monday..

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Nov 16 2010
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    2kS4, 84gli, 84caddy dsl
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    Air tools dont work very well with long extensions.

    They are normal lefty loosy threads. Try tp break them loose with a breaker bar with just the socket from underneath the car.

    Motor out, swap headgaskets, and motor back in over the weekend?!?!
    Im just going to tell you this now so its not a surprise sun night- youre fukkd. Seriously.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    ZILLA YOU DA MAN!! Got thm broken loose with just a breaker and the bit!! And I have faith.. We started last night at 6 and all that's left before pulling is these axles... Do you know what to do when the shifter linkage in the black box above the driveshaft is disconnected? I've got it unclipped but I don't know where to pull the cable through since its held in with a rubber boot.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    If it is a 6spd, take the shifter all the way out and pull the boot with the linkage.

    Sounds like you got the 2 6mm allens out already.
    Remove the 4 10mm nuts that hold the boot up.
    Remove the 4 torx screws that hold the shifter rails (t20 or so?) and yank the shifter out the top.

    Some people leave the shifter and just slide the rods out of the boot, but they can be a pita to get back through the holes.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    No its an automatic but we got a couple clips removed and we can slide it out... its on the hoist now we just have to remove CV axle shields and we should be good from there... any other connections to be aware of that are usually missed or hard to see before we pull it out?

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Nov 16 2010
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    2kS4, 84gli, 84caddy dsl
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    I rarely see tips so dont know much about them, unfortunately.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Alright thanks for the help though! Almost got the engine out!!!!!! :DDDD

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    annnddddd its stuck on the drivers side cv axle -_-

  9. #9
    Active Member One Ring S4LIFE's Avatar
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    Iam doing mine right now too but all 3 cv drive saftf are not braking off the tran

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    2kS4, 84gli, 84caddy dsl
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    Thats just the start of it.

    I know you gotta do what you gotta do, but doing a job like this in a hurry is always tough.
    Even tougher over a weekend when parts are not available.

    You will more than likely find quite a few things that need attention while you are in there, I usually do anyway.
    Fix as much as you can while you are in there. You dont want to put it back together just to have to get back in and chase problems.

    Id delete the sai while it is out to make working on it easier in the future. Depends on your tune though. Some you can just code it out, others are tamperproof.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    PB blaster is your friend. Manually breaking things loose (bolts) is the best way to go too. Dont lose alot of torque that way.

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    2kS4, 84gli, 84caddy dsl
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    And make sure you have a good allen and it is all the way in the head of the bolt, those things are easy to strip.
    Even after the bolts are out, the rear cv on the center shaft can be fun to get off.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Cant figure out how to get the drivers side axle out of the way.. we are trying to remove the lower steering/suspension components so we can swing the rotors/caliper assembly away from the car to move the axle.. since the axle is blocking the engine from coming out :( is there a better way of doing it?

  14. #14
    Active Member One Ring S4LIFE's Avatar
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    That my problem all the bolts are out but wont break off on all 3 cv connection

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    My Garage
    2kS4, 84gli, 84caddy dsl
    Location
    WetSide, WA

    I usually take them out first.

    DXC method is crank the wheel to the opposite side you are working on, jack the susp up as far as you can, and slip the axle out.
    Not sure if this works on tips though.

    With where you are at you might just have to yank the Excalibur bolt at the top.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by S4LIFE View Post
    That my problem all the bolts are out but wont break off on all 3 cv connection
    Bummer man, you are in salt country. You are going to have to get medieval on them.

    Hammertime!

    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  17. #17
    Active Member One Ring S4LIFE's Avatar
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    Haha in miane so yea hammer time then fuck tho axels and driveshfat new one are going in

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    WetSide, WA

    You dont want aftermarket and oem is stupid expensive.

    Just beat on them over where the bolts go through.
    If you have to beat on it hard enough to deform the metal, can just run a drill through it to get the bolts back in.
    Not the case if you beat on it over where the balls ride. Ive never had to hit one hard enough to jack it up.

    The worst one I have ever had to do was a 13yr old virgin in for its first clutch at ~200k.
    I thought it was going to be easy because no idiots had been in there before mucking stuff up.
    Was NOT the case. I had to fight every bolt on that beeatch. (PA salt country)
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  19. #19
    Active Member Four Rings landfill's Avatar
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    Nov 14 2013
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    Pompano Beach, Florida

    Use a rubber dead blow hammer and whack on the part of the joint that is solid metal on the side of where the bolts enter.
    It should break loose. Also thread a bolt or two a couple turns before hitting it. Sometimes that helps as well.

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    That dont work in salt country.

    Ive had to thrash on a 1 with the air hammer so bad I was worried about the bearings in the rear end
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  21. #21
    Active Member Four Rings landfill's Avatar
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    Fuk dat. I'm glad I've never had to deal with northeast BS.
    So even with the bolts out you had to air hammer it to death?

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Lol, salt is the devil!! Its nuts what that stuff does to cars.

    The axles and the front center are usually easy, but the rear center is usually a mofo if they havent been off in a while.
    Its like it swells up into the flange it sits in and corrosion welds in there.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  23. #23
    Active Member One Ring S4LIFE's Avatar
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    Yea it did just that haha but a 5 lb copperhead hummer got them lose

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings xalents23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MarlinFoundNemo View Post
    Cant figure out how to get the drivers side axle out of the way.. we are trying to remove the lower steering/suspension components so we can swing the rotors/caliper assembly away from the car to move the axle.. since the axle is blocking the engine from coming out :( is there a better way of doing it?
    I just removed the entire knuckle on both sides with the axle attached to it. It will give you plenty of room for you to pull the engine out.

  25. #25
    Active Member One Ring S4LIFE's Avatar
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    Got my Engine out finally

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