Best clutch kit for daily driving

**topgear** · 04-13-2015 02:13 PM

Hi, I'm thinking of replacing my clutch soon. The car is bone stock and while it's not my main daily driver I will be driving it quite often.

I'm looking for a clutch kit that is best suited for daily driving. There's a lot of stop and go traffic and lots of hills where I live so something that's smooth to engage and disengage and comfortable to drive.
I don't want anything stiffer than stock.

I was searching online and came across AMD clutch kit and they state:

Stage 1:

Organic clutch disc. Perfect for daily driving ability, it is specifically designed for extended wear and additional clamping force for with a very light pedal pressure for very a smooth engagement and disengagement. Torque limit is approximately 550lb/ft to the crank.

Stage 2:

Organic/Fibertough clutch disc. Perfect for daily driving ability, it is specifically designed for extended wear and additional clamping force with a very light pedal pressure for very a smooth engagement and disengagement. Torque limit is approximately 650lb/ft to the crank

I like the fact they have a light pedal feel and smooth dis/engagement which is what I'm looking for.

I don't planning on putting a charger on the car or heavily modifying it. The most I will do is probably an exhaust and maybe a tune.

Are any of you running an AMD clutch kit? I haven't found too much info or review on them.

If I were to go with AMD, which stage would you guy recommend? It seems like the only difference is the clutch disc meterial and torque load.

If not AMD, which kit would you guys recommend? I'm planning to replace all the parts including the PP and FW.

Or do you guys think going with an OEM kit is the best route for my needs?

Thanks in advance.

**Bootleg25Q** · 04-13-2015 02:19 PM

I DD mine with no intentions of FI either (JHM 91 tune & piggies currently), I just did JHM 1R and I like it pretty well.

The LWFW is very "revvy" (good luck on hills at first) but once you get the hang of it, it is pretty fun.

I'm sure others will chime in but the most common point of failure is the SAC (self adjusting) PP, which the OEM kit uses. I would recommend staying away from it.

**daytonars4** · 04-13-2015 02:25 PM

I have tried 3 different setups myself, and my favorite for daily driving so far is the Spec 2+. I have about 15k miles on it so far with no issues. Would seem like not a lot of mileage, but the others didn't fair as well. The feel is very similiar to stock, probably a tad lighter. Won't have any issues with the SAC from the OEM setup since they don't use that in the kit. Spec has a steel fw which is lighter than stock but not insanely light. There is some chatter but you won't hear it over a radio. The Spec clutch+fw will be one o fthe cheaper options you find as well, eventhough that wasn't my main reason for pursuing it as an option. Avoid clutchmasters unless you want to replace the clutch every 10k miles. I can't seem to find anyone who gets them to last longer than that.

**topgear** · 04-13-2015 02:29 PM

what exactly is the issue with the stock SAC system?

also I would like a kit with no chatter if possible..

thanks!

**daytonars4** · 04-13-2015 03:29 PM

The only way you will get no chatter is if you stick with the stock setup. The quiter drivetrain is basically the benefit of the much heavier flywheel. The SAC has been known to come out of adjustment and cause the height of the clutch pedal to change. Something that tends to happen when the car is being really pushes. If you don't tend to really push the car it may be something you'll never notice.

**jakeoboy67** · 04-13-2015 03:41 PM

Originally Posted by daytonars4

The only way you will get no chatter is if you stick with the stock setup. The quiter drivetrain is basically the benefit of the much heavier flywheel. The SAC has been known to come out of adjustment and cause the height of the clutch pedal to change. Something that tends to happen when the car is being really pushes. If you don't tend to really push the car it may be something you'll never notice.

the SAC system really doesn't like 5000+ Rpm clutch drops

, but I dont think its gonna cause you some trouble if it's just for Daily driving ,

btw , what makes you want to replace the clutch ?
how many miles are on it ?
does it slip ?

**daytonars4** · 04-13-2015 04:30 PM

Ummm, I don't think people are running around doing 5k dumps. The issues often come with aggressive 7-8k rpm shifts.

**FWP!** · 04-13-2015 04:55 PM

Originally Posted by daytonars4

Ummm, I don't think people are running around doing 5k dumps. The issues often come with aggressive 7-8k rpm shifts.

It's a crap-ass design. Audi should have admitted it from the start instead of blaming it on the dumb clutch line. I can't wait to get rid of my stock one.

**forbiddenbeat** · 04-13-2015 06:09 PM

I'm curious about this as well. I'll keep the OEM clutch until it's gone (I only have 39k miles, so that might be a while), but I'm fairly disappointed in the OEM clutch's ability to grab on quick shifts. A 1-2 or 2-3 shift from redline to full throttle always seems fairly soft and slow. It might be part of the design so other things don't break, but I'd love a clutch that had better feel and grab without a lot of noise or difficulty driving around town.

**rs4 tony** · 04-19-2015 06:52 PM

I like my spec stage 3+ with spec light weight steel flywheel. If I told you to drive my car, you would think its stock.

**jareds941** · 04-19-2015 10:22 PM

I have a full OEM setup that will be here in the next few days. Ordered from Rock Auto and is shipped for under $600. I track my car and while I have had a little stick on the pedal on redline shifts, it is basically a non issue for me and performs great in all other situations. I just ticked over 80k and I'm not actually sure when I'm going to have the new one put in...might just let it ride until it dies and then I'll have the parts on hand to get a new one in.

Just too many "issues" and variables across the board with aftermarket options for me to feel confident in picking a non-OEM path...I don't have the cash to experiment with the parts/labor.

**Avus RS4** · 04-19-2015 10:33 PM

Originally Posted by jareds941

I have a full OEM setup that will be here in the next few days. Ordered from Rock Auto and is shipped for under $600. I track my car and while I have had a little stick on the pedal on redline shifts, it is basically a non issue for me and performs great in all other situations. I just ticked over 80k and I'm not actually sure when I'm going to have the new one put in...might just let it ride until it dies and then I'll have the parts on hand to get a new one in.

Just too many "issues" and variables across the board with aftermarket options for me to feel confident in picking a non-OEM path...I don't have the cash to experiment with the parts/labor.

That's my thoughts as well.
I've been down that road before with my Corvette Z06 and my Z28.
The OEM clutch for the Audi feels surpisingly good im my opinion, it has a nice pressure, and for a daily driver, or spirited driving I think they're just fine.
I would definitely go OEM when my time comes to replace my clutch...

**voidopolis** · 05-07-2015 11:08 AM

OP- We are pretty much aligned here. I'm bone stock, daily driver, plan to do simple mods in the future - like DPs, catback, tune. I plan to do a hand full of track days, (first one is in July @ MidOhio) and I'm looking for a clutch that will be good for daily driving, but stout enough to handle driving spiritedly. I've been debating JHM vs. stock vs. AMD for a while. I'm not sure if I want a LWFW or not. I guess I'm mostly interested in a clutch that will hold up for a while - so longevity is important. I don't want an off/on clutch that is going to be a pain in the ass for my wife /daughter to drive from time to time. No answers here TopGear, but I'm interested in more folks feedback on what their experiences are in clutches for DDers.

**xalfa** · 05-07-2015 12:50 PM

Originally Posted by daytonars4

The only way you will get no chatter is if you stick with the stock setup. The quiter drivetrain is basically the benefit of the much heavier flywheel.

More important is that the stock flywheel is a dual-mass design.

**daytonars4** · 05-07-2015 12:57 PM

Originally Posted by voidopolis

OP- We are pretty much aligned here. I'm bone stock, daily driver, plan to do simple mods in the future - like DPs, catback, tune. I plan to do a hand full of track days, (first one is in July @ MidOhio) and I'm looking for a clutch that will be good for daily driving, but stout enough to handle driving spiritedly. I've been debating JHM vs. stock vs. AMD for a while. I'm not sure if I want a LWFW or not. I guess I'm mostly interested in a clutch that will hold up for a while - so longevity is important. I don't want an off/on clutch that is going to be a pain in the ass for my wife /daughter to drive from time to time. No answers here TopGear, but I'm interested in more folks feedback on what their experiences are in clutches for DDers.

Just make sure you are on top of your rev matching on the down shifts. It really is one of the most important things on the track. If you don't blip the throttle enough you will be braking heavily with the clutch and can easily blow it up ..... As I did myself early on.lol

**xalfa** · 05-07-2015 01:05 PM

Originally Posted by forbiddenbeat

I'll keep the OEM clutch until it's gone (I only have 39k miles, so that might be a while).

Yeah, it could be a while. Mine did 110k before any pressure plate issues. Even then plenty of life left on the disk.

**WinterRunner** · 05-07-2015 01:07 PM

^ what did you replace with?

**jareds941** · 05-07-2015 02:30 PM

Car will be done today getting replacement clutch.

Luk OE Flywheel + Clutch kit + 034 Street Density Trans mount

Stoked to have the new one and not have to worry about calling AAA to get home from a track day. 80k on the original, and while there weren't any major issues, just felt like a good time to update it considering how affordable the parts are through Rock Auto right now.

EDIT: Just got a call and turns out the stock trans mount had a tear in it, so glad I bought the new one. Also, he found a small oil leak at the rear main seal so that got a new seal...might mean my oil consumption will go down now!!