D.V. stuck open???

[Murph_129]

So I went out to my car to head out and get some dinner. When I started it up It was idling a little rough, so right away I grabbed my code reader and scanned it. I had the code

P1297
"Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)"

So I got out and checked all my vacuum lines and the inlet pipe to make sure nothing had come loose. Went back and cleared the codes, started it back up and it idled fine for about 5 seconds and then it started idling rough again. Again, went back and did a visual inspection, listened for leaks or hissing.. Nothing.

One last time, started it up and from then on, it idled fine. It's a 2001 with the AWM with 107k on it, so I have the N249 valve controlling my D.V. and I haven't touched that (Well I have, but I put it back). So its a completely stock 1.8T AWM.

Is it possible my D.V. is getting stuck open? I've been wanting to replace it anyways just because it's stock and I'd prefer to be proactive on most things and replace them sooner than later. So really this is also me asking for suggestions, what brands are reputable and good. What makes one better than another?

Thanks guys.

[blitz2190]

So I went out to my car to head out and get some dinner. When I started it up It was idling a little rough, so right away I grabbed my code reader and scanned it. I had the code

P1297
"Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)"

So I got out and checked all my vacuum lines and the inlet pipe to make sure nothing had come loose. Went back and cleared the codes, started it back up and it idled fine for about 5 seconds and then it started idling rough again. Again, went back and did a visual inspection, listened for leaks or hissing.. Nothing.

One last time, started it up and from then on, it idled fine. It's a 2001 with the AWM with 107k on it, so I have the N249 valve controlling my D.V. and I haven't touched that (Well I have, but I put it back). So its a completely stock 1.8T AWM.

Is it possible my D.V. is getting stuck open? I've been wanting to replace it anyways just because it's stock and I'd prefer to be proactive on most things and replace them sooner than later. So really this is also me asking for suggestions, what brands are reputable and good. What makes one better than another?

Thanks guys.

Original dv? If so it's probably torn or worn out

[Murph_129]

I don't know that its "torn" and I honestly don't know what you mean by that haha. But like I said, it's running fine now and at full boost with no leaks.. So I'm thinking its just worn out

[blitz2190]

You wouldn't be able to see a tear it's the diaphragm on the inside of the dv and does happen fairly common after this mileage. most likey worn out if it works sometimes

[Davdraco1]

change it. the better 710N are only 50$ ish

[ModdedEuros]

DV probably shot.

Should just swap it out

Go Fast Bits DV T9301

http://www.moddedeuros.com/products/...-06-1-8t-t9301

Or if you want to see all the options
http://www.moddedeuros.com/audi/a4/b...iverter-valves

[TheTanker]

If you can pull your dv push the valve up and place your finger on the vacuum tip and if it goes down or you can't feel a suction on your finger tip the valve is probably bad, best off replacing it anyways. If you do have a vac gauge you could use that aswell. I am not sure how much it should pull exactly tho.

[Murph_129]

DV probably shot.

Should just swap it out

Go Fast Bits DV T9301

http://www.moddedeuros.com/products/...-06-1-8t-t9301

Or if you want to see all the options
http://www.moddedeuros.com/audi/a4/b...iverter-valves

What makes these better than me buying a new 710N.. They all do the same task which isnt really complex at all.. so what justifies the extra $100 for a GFB one.. or any other expensive D.V. for that matter? (Serious question I really do want to know haha)

[Davdraco1]

I know the forge DV are all billet aluminum machines and they prolly just cost more to make. How much more? Who knows. I've read articles on people using the 710N on Porsches that made 700+ hp and it did just fine. Unless your big turbo and have the money for it, you don't need anything more then the 710N imo. Up to you tho. That money can go somewhere else.

[Murph_129]

My thoughts exactly thanks for the help.

[ricekikr]

What makes these better than me buying a new 710N.. They all do the same task which isnt really complex at all.. so what justifies the extra $100 for a GFB one.. or any other expensive D.V. for that matter? (Serious question I really do want to know haha)

The stock dv (the 15+yr old one) is pretty robust. Holds 35+psi

The aftermarket dv main benefit is most of them are piston type, no diaphragm to rip.

If you plan on going bt. 25mm sized (forge 007 and oem dv) will cause flutter at 25+psi on a 5857 sized turbo. Will hold the boost fine, but too small to release all the boost.

[pbcrazy]

My thoughts exactly thanks for the help.

710n is a good DV, I ran one for a long time. The Forge 007 has the benefit of being fully serviceable and rebuildable, along with a spring and shim package that offers precision tuning for your application. If you plan on staying with a k03, the 710n will outperform it. If you plan on going with a larger turbo, most upgrade to the 007.