034 Aux Water pump delete??? 2.7T

[Brandon002]

Anyone running this?

I'm seriously considering it. I replaced my Aux pump in December due to leaking. Well here we are at the beginning of April and it's leaking again. I don't know if the super cold temps did it or what, but I really don't feel like pulling my intake manifold every 4 months. If it can be safely bypassed I'm all for it.

[Brandon002]

or anyone running a home made bypass? I looked at the 034 kit again, looks like it's just a hose and two hose clamps. I'm sure this can be made for less than 30 bucks.

I understand letting the car idle for a minute or two before shutting it off if driven hard would be required, but I pretty much do that anyway.

[gegz]

Autozone sells similar hoses by the foot, did mine last summer and no issues....

[Brandon002]

That's what I wanted to hear. Looks like I'm heading to Autozone tomorrow.

[LakeTahoeQuattr]

Why would you want to delete your aux water pump? Mine runs after every shutdown to pump coolant thru my precious snails

[Brandon002]

Read the original post.

Just replaced 4 moths ago, leaking again already. It was a brand new pump, lasted 4 months. If I'm removing the intake manifold again, I don't want to have to do it again soon. Plus, a 5 dollar hose is cheaper than a 200-300 dollar electric pump that is basically pointless as long as you let the car idle a minute or so before shutting down.

[LakeTahoeQuattr]

Id try and fix it, just me

[julex]

PEX fitting from HD/Lowes for $3 accomplishes the same exact thing at a small fraction of the cost. You just remove pump, put pex in place, clamp it, done.

[Brandon002]

PEX fitting from HD/Lowes for $3 accomplishes the same exact thing at a small fraction of the cost. You just remove pump, put pex in place, clamp it, done.

Awesome... Off to lowe's I go. Thank you.

Any chance you have a picture or size/dimensions for the piece you are talking about?

[Brandon002]

Id try and fix it, just me

I have a turbo timer out of one of my old cars that I plan to install. Which will accomplish the same thing as far as cool down without worrying about the expensive and poorly designed pump.

[NuGGet_PuFFer]

Read the original post.

Just replaced 4 moths ago, leaking again already. It was a brand new pump, lasted 4 months. If I'm removing the intake manifold again, I don't want to have to do it again soon. Plus, a 5 dollar hose is cheaper than a 200-300 dollar electric pump that is basically pointless as long as you let the car idle a minute or so before shutting down.

There's a aux pump relocation kit from Audi available, moves the pump to an area less exposed to excessive heat, although it'll still be a lot more expensive than a Home Depot fix.

I'm with Tahoe though, I'd fix it, but that's just me. To each their own. Good luck with whatever u decide.

[Brandon002]

This car costs enough in maintenance. I think I can handle idling the car for a minute or two before shutting it off to save myself the 300 bucks. I can always add it back later if I ever decide to sell the car.

[LakeTahoeQuattr]

This car costs enough in maintenance.

pay to play

[julex]

1" pex (effective 0.75" since pex sizes designate OD of water hose) 90 deg elbow. Hd has cheaper pex fittings by the way.

[engineer73]

I have the PEX elbow installed and 15k and counting no issues. Just be smart at shutdown and let it idle a minute or two

[fukinavit]

Relocate is your best option. Your in there anyway to remove it so just plumb in the relocate kit which im sure you could fab up. Its actually quite a valuable tool if you value your turbos. I added the jhm electric fan kit and lower temp coolant switch just for those hot temps, well worth it.

[julex]

I used to be a staunch supporter of aux pump but after years of running without one (I was forced to remove it due to RS4 intake manifold with enlarged plenum which left no room for the pump) I can decisively say that one is not needed at all. It was added to the design to prevent coolant boiling after shutdown at the trigger point from factory is 108C. Healthy car should not exceed ~95C in the heat of 95F summer. It only kicks in if the temperature threshold is exceeded at time of shutdown, not some time afterwards. The result is that in factory mode that never kicks in...and if it does you better investigate your cooling system as it is definitely running WAY TOO HOT to begin with.

Simply not shutting down immediately after going WOT is all you need to have zero issues with turbos. Due to the fact that our turbos are coolant cooled and oil cooled, they cool down super quick. The cool down period (idle for few minutes) is only really applicable to oil cooled turbos (they get no coolant) and especially BB type of such turbo since the amount of oil flowing through the turbo is very small.

So, deleting it is fine.

[Brandon002]

pay to play

My BMW didn't cost as much to maintain as this thing.

[NuGGet_PuFFer]

My BMW didn't cost as much to maintain as this thing.

Was it twin turbo and AWD?

[Brandon002]

Was it twin turbo and AWD?

Yes it was. 2009 335XI

[NuGGet_PuFFer]

Yes it was. 2009 335XI

Lol well then, touchè. But it was also 5 years newer, probably less miles, etc. Just sayin.

[Brandon002]

Actually miles were pretty close, my C5 has 118K, my 335 had 105K.

Don't get me wrong, I love Audi and VW, but BMW just has a more well engineered car. I think older Audis are great for those of us that can live with the quirks that come along with them. I've owned a bunch of BMW's, VW's and Audi's. The BMW's were pretty damn bulletproof while the VW's and Audi's had a lot of quirks and gremlins. The BMW's are also a hell of a lot easier to work on. I think the Bavarian engineers actually thought about the fact that someone would have to replace things when engineering the cars.

[julex]

Actually miles were pretty close, my C5 has 118K, my 335 had 105K.

Don't get me wrong, I love Audi and VW, but BMW just has a more well engineered car. I think older Audis are great for those of us that can live with the quirks that come along with them. I've owned a bunch of BMW's, VW's and Audi's. The BMW's were pretty damn bulletproof while the VW's and Audi's had a lot of quirks and gremlins. The BMW's are also a hell of a lot easier to work on. I think the Bavarian engineers actually thought about the fact that someone would have to replace things when engineering the cars.

So true, so true. VW/Audi are consistently on the bottom of reliability charts and let's not even talk about servicing them.