Wheel bearing?

[EuroSwag]

Have a 99 2.8 Quattro. Have been getting a loud noise from the rear. It's has become progressively worse. Starts getting audible around 20-25mph. Is same volume regardless of gear. Jacked both sides of the car up and try to wiggle the wheel to check for play (12 o'clock and 6 o'clock position) and it's sturdy as ever. Sounds like a bad tire like "wah wah wah wah" type noise lol. What I did notice was the brake pads on the side where I'm 85% sure the noise is coming from, are ever so slightly grazing the rotor. Any other tips would help! Thanks.

[redline380]

Try checking the front wheels for play like you did with the rears.

[moyenecorniche]

Brake pads are always just lightly in contact with the rotors.
A Wah Wah sound is more like an out of balance tire and/or one that is wearying unevenly.

A bearing on the way out is a vibration that gets louder with increased speed. The wheel hub will not move laterally until the bearings disintegrate.
For less than $200 you can replace both rear bearings on the left and right.
Don't wait until the bearing completely destroys itself

[redline380]

Don't wait until the bearing completely destroys itself

If there is no play in the bearings, they are not bad. No reason to change them unless they are actually bad.

[Koldham]

i replaced a rear bearing this morning. made one helluva racket when i drive but the tire and hub were tight.

[adam044]

I drove with mine until the point of which my wheel was ready to fall off. My exhaust is loud, it wasn't my fault...

[moyenecorniche]

If there is no play in the bearings, they are not bad. No reason to change them unless they are actually bad.

If they're moaning they are bad. Why would you wait until you have play in the wheel ??
That results in extreme wear on the inside edge of the tire and may also result in other damage to suspension components.
Its not like this is a motor pull. It's an easy and inexpensive fix.

[EuroSwag]

Thanks for the good info, the noise I wouldn't say gets louder with increased speed but faster (obviously) pretty consistent level of noise. I'm going to switch to my summer wheels and tires first before ordering new bearings. I'm in NY and this car has been in NY it's whole life. It's going to be fun as all the bolts look welded to each other.

[adam044]

Just don't let it go. Get it done this week.

[redline380]

If they're moaning they are bad. Why would you wait until you have play in the wheel ??
That results in extreme wear on the inside edge of the tire and may also result in other damage to suspension components.
Its not like this is a motor pull. It's an easy and inexpensive fix.

He doesn't know it is the bearing that is doing the moaning. Every time I have had a bad bearing, there is play in the wheel. I personally would look elsewhere first.

[richardodn]

Also check the lower bushings on the rear spindles. Mine had completely disintegrated by 170k miles. Since the rubber was basically gone, road noise really transmitted through chassis. Excessive camber on the rear wheels is another indicator.

[EuroSwag]

Alright I'll check for bushings in that area as well, another thing is when the noise is present and I shift the weight of the vehicle from left to right the noise does NOT change whatsoever

[moyenecorniche]

He doesn't know it is the bearing that is doing the moaning. Every time I have had a bad bearing, there is play in the wheel. I personally would look elsewhere first.

had 2 bearings on two separate Audi's, neither showed lateral play. The one I'm replacing tomorrow ( 3rd ) did as the pressed part of the hub into the wheel bearing unit actually sheared itself.
So bearings can wear out and they don't follow the same symptoms. As far as tire problem that was already mentioned, but by the OP's last post it sounds more like the bearing.
It's not that big of a deal to replace if one follows the correct steps. After removing the wheel, brake caliper and carrier and the rotor, spraying PB blaster on the dust shield screws and the 4 bolts holding the bearing unit in makes it much easier.
Only the driveshaft has to be moved back towards the block, then it can be moved around allowing access to all 4 hub bearing bolts.

[moyenecorniche]

Alright I'll check for bushings in that area as well, another thing is when the noise is present and I shift the weight of the vehicle from left to right the noise does NOT change whatsoever

Which pretty much tells you its a bearing. directional changes cannot affect the bearings ( or if they do then I would call AAA ) noise as it stays constant and will just increase as they continue to wear out.
Don't wait and just get them replaced. Both sides can be done in a couple of hours.

[EuroSwag]

I'll take care of it this weekend, thanks for the help.

[richardodn]

Which pretty much tells you its a bearing. directional changes cannot affect the bearings ( or if they do then I would call AAA ) noise as it stays constant and will just increase as they continue to wear out.
Don't wait and just get them replaced. Both sides can be done in a couple of hours.

Actually directional changes affect the noise from bearings all the time as the bearing gets loaded in different ways. It's basically the opposite of what you said.

[redline380]

Actually directional changes affect the noise from bearings all the time as the bearing gets loaded in different ways. It's basically the opposite of what you said.

Agreed.

I HATE it when people make the recommendation to change both bearings at the same time. It makes no sense! The other bearing could last for another 10, 20, or 30 thousand miles! You have no idea. And it isn't like adding forged rods to an engine that you have apart. The bearings are completely separate sides and doing them both at the same time will not be cheaper, quicker, or more efficient. The only thing you are doing by changing both at the same time is reducing the amount of mileage you get from a bearing, meaning more money per mile in that bearing. You might as well let it ride until it goes.

[moyenecorniche]

Agreed.

I HATE it when people make the recommendation to change both bearings at the same time. It makes no sense! The other bearing could last for another 10, 20, or 30 thousand miles! You have no idea. And it isn't like adding forged rods to an engine that you have apart. The bearings are completely separate sides and doing them both at the same time will not be cheaper, quicker, or more efficient. The only thing you are doing by changing both at the same time is reducing the amount of mileage you get from a bearing, meaning more money per mile in that bearing. You might as well let it ride until it goes.

Its a 1999, it is cost effective to do both since if it is at a shop they can do both in less time than it takes us to do one in the driveway. It's a 30 minute or less replacement in a shop but you are going to get charged a full hour rate. May as well have both done.
I have a lot more idea than you think. It's called preventative maintenance. This doesn't make sense >> .... " The only thing you are doing by changing both at the same time is reducing the amount of mileage you get from a bearing, meaning more money per mile in that bearing. You might as well let it ride until it goes. " .... considering the fact that it's a 1999.
If you are really crunching the pennies saved on a 16 year old bearing by trying to squeeze a few remaining miles out of it then whatever.
The cost here would be for two bearings and hub and the shop time for 1 visit. The older bearing could last and it may very well not. The latter is more likely that 10,000 more miles isn't gonna happen. Bearings do fail at about the same time and mileage.

But it's the OP's car, suggestion is that doing both saves money but since you and I disagree, it is irrelevant as it is not our car...

[Bordom]

I've done 5 wheel bearings on my own vehicle. The only original one is the passenger front at 271k Km. No wheels ever showed play when they were bad, but rather a whine/groan at speed and the classic "swerving" diagnostic from left to right.

If you can live with the sound and slight vibration of it, then leave it alone. My grandfather doesn't understand when I change out parts and my symptoms disappear. He claims that "it's still good. Why are you wasting your money?"

[redline380]

Its a 1999, it is cost effective to do both since if it is at a shop they can do both in less time than it takes us to do one in the driveway.... considering the fact that it's a 1999.... If you are really crunching the pennies saved on a 16 year old bearing...Bearings do fail at about the same time and mileage.

Quit assuming. How is the year of the car relevant? Do you know when his bearings have been changed before? So what if I take your advice, change both my rears at the same time, and one only lasts 5k miles? Should I change them both again?

Even if he is at a shop, it takes more than a half hour to change.

I stand by my opinion- if it ain't broke, don't fix it. If I did that, I would be putting MAF's, o2's, wheel bearings, control arms, etc every 20k miles. How much sense does that make?

If you can live with the sound and slight vibration of it, then leave it alone. My grandfather doesn't understand when I change out parts and my symptoms disappear. He claims that "it's still good. Why are you wasting your money?"

I wont go that far. If the bearing is bad, replace it. But in this instance, I am not convinced the bearing is bad. I have always had play in the wheel and OP does not have that.

[adam044]

This thread is a shit show.

[EuroSwag]

Oh no you guys are starting to sound like the 335i forum guys! Haha just kidding. I plan on doing the labor myself. Waiting on hub centric rings to put my summer wheels on, I know it's most likely a wheel bearing but hey, just to check. When the noise first started I had to have the radio and heat off to hear it. Now I can hear it through the radio lol. I know it's good practice to replace both at the same time. I plan just to do one side at a time. If the other one makes noise a week later, no sweat.

[redline380]

I know it's good practice to replace both at the same time.

Unless you like replacing a perfectly good part, it isnt good practice. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise, especially if you do your own work.

If you have a dented driver door, do you replace the passanger as well? If a tree dies in your yard and you cut it down, do you cut down the other trees before they die? If your furnace goes out, do you replace you A/C unit at the same time? No, no you dont.

[gearhead9992]

so im assuming that these bearing are the same as others well the pressed in ones how do yall remove the bearing and and put the new in do you take the hub off and use a press?

[redline380]

so im assuming that these bearing are the same as others well the pressed in ones how do yall remove the bearing and and put the new in do you take the hub off and use a press?

I use a 40 ton shop press at my buddy's shop. However, my other friend uses a hubshark (ecs has one available) and he LOVES it. You don't even have to remove the upright. But when the time comes to buy my own tool to do wheel bearings, I will probably get the harbor freight press for $200 so I can use it for other things.

[bxultra]

Can someone make a recommendation of quality bearings? Is plk germany a reliable brand? I would go with the audi/VW oem bearings but don't feel like paying that much if I can find an oem or better quality bearing cheaper. Ecs has the plk pair with bolts and hardware for ~60$ which doesn't seem bad at all.

[richardodn]

First of all, it's probably helpful to include information about the car and bearing location. If you are asking about rear quattro bearings, then specific recommendations apply.

I never heard of that brand so really can't comment. However since it has Germany in the name, the parts probably aren't made there. If you want to buy from ECS, I'd go with LuK. Most likely the exact same bearing as the F A G (both are brands of Schaeffler) and includes the axle bolt. If you're looking for the best, I'd find someone who carries SKF.

[Koldham]

i used F.A.G

[gearhead9992]

well to get to a press isn't a problem I work at a Toyota dealership but they charge to work on your own shit so I guess ill just take the hub off get my wife to take me to work and ill sneak in with it and do it real quick

and am I right that the rear wheel bearing on a 01 Quattro are 75mm what the other measurements im trying to find skf

[redline380]

All rear Quattro bearings for many years are 75mm OD, yours included. You have 82mm fronts though

[sirsmokealot303]

I only read half the comments here... I did my front wheel bearings last summer and it was the same situation. made noise but there was no play in the wheel when i jacked it up to inspect it. It was easy enough to get the axle out and then you can check the bearing. My front axle required a 14mm allen socket and a large breaker bar for the main axle bolt. And a 8mm triple square star bit. Took about 20min, if that... I'm not sure how much different it would be to check the rear bearings... for the hell of it https://youtu.be/gAJ0m9Bjk3Y?list=UU..._ZFOhbrm6YNFmw

[NoLag28VAG]

I was having the same issue. I changed my left rear bearing due to vibration in the car. The noise is still present in the left rear of the car. I am beginning to believe it is either the mounts that holds the diff or the diff.

[Koldham]

i have the schwaben wheel bearing kit you can borrow if you dont want to remove the entire hub. just pay shipping.

[richardodn]

SKF rear quattro PN GRW133
rockauto $55
amazon $52
Don't forget new axle bolts.

[gearhead9992]

I found a skf for 50 and free shipping on ebay but no axle bolt it says its for a a6 but its the part number Richardodn supplied

[bxultra]

Are the axle bolts necessarily that important to replace? Could someone explain why its recommended?

[redline380]

Are the axle bolts necessarily that important to replace? Could someone explain why its recommended?

They are TTY bolts, so they should be replaced every time.

I never do because I am an idiot, but they haven't failed me yet. Eventually I will throw some new ones in there

[EuroSwag]

I was having the same issue. I changed my left rear bearing due to vibration in the car. The noise is still present in the left rear of the car. I am beginning to believe it is either the mounts that holds the diff or the diff.

Hmm, see I don't have a vibration I just have noise.

[S4NIK8]

Unless you like replacing a perfectly good part, it isnt good practice. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise, especially if you do your own work.

If you have a dented driver door, do you replace the passanger as well? If a tree dies in your yard and you cut it down, do you cut down the other trees before they die? If your furnace goes out, do you replace you A/C unit at the same time? No, no you dont.

It makes sense to replace both as they are a wear item and presumably have been in the car for a similar amount of time and have a similar life expectancy.

[moyenecorniche]

What I did for my bearing was not to bother with having the old bearing pressed out and new bearing pressed in. Was easier to just buy bearing assembly and wheel hub new, having them pressed in and just replace both. This was passenger side. As for the drivers side I will do that in a couple weeks when I replace the axle. ( torn inner boot ). Once the axle is completely out its easy to reach those 4 triple square bolts.
Before we get into another unnecessary dispute, it's less headache to just order the axle from Raxle send back the core, instead of rebuilding the inner CV and boot. Again just a remove and replace and be done with it.

BTW I do have some rust on one front quarter panel so I will replace both sides and while I'm at it will also do the rear quarter to RS4 dimensions