Complete DIY for 3.0T Thermostat Parts, Manual, photos tips!

[Brd.Prey]

Just did Stereo Jorge car above. It took us 4:50 mins. No issues. AD thermostat.

[stereojorge]

Job went amazing! Car runs great!


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[AudBoost]

Nice job guys!!
Mine will probably be next

[Biggame]

i ended up removing all 4 torx bolts and didn't touch the bolts on the pulley and came out (just) and went in (just)...

bingo. you take out the 2 left t30 torxs bolts on the coolant pipe, and loosen the 2 right t30 torx bolts (all the way until the last couple threads) on the coolant pipe. you loosen the 3 pulley triple square bolts until the last thread or two, and just pry the pulley and coolant pipe away from thermostat as far is it goes. its a real tight fit, but with a little wiggling, it comes right out. loosening the bolts til the last couple threads gives it just enough space to pull the thermostat out. havent broken a coolant pipe yet.

[coolarj10]

Hey guys, I noticed the OP mentioned "renew" next to all the O-rings. I'm assuming that means he wants us to replace all the O-rings with brand new ones.

Since they are all different sizes, how do I order them? Does anyone have a parts list? Or is it okay to just use the same O rings?...

Thank you!
Arjun

[stereojorge]

Hey guys, I noticed the OP mentioned "renew" next to all the O-rings. I'm assuming that means he wants us to replace all the O-rings with brand new ones.

Since they are all different sizes, how do I order them? Does anyone have a parts list? Or is it okay to just use the same O rings?...

Thank you!
Arjun

Second image is the Invoice from Deutsche Auto Parts and it contains all the part numbers for everything needed for this. I suggest ordering from Paul right there, excellent pricing. Tell em Jorge and Ed from Florida sent you, he'll hook it up!


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[coolarj10]

Second image is the Invoice from Deutsche Auto Parts and it contains all the part numbers was for everything needed for this. I suggest ordering from Paul right there, excellent pricing. Tell em Jorge and Ed from Florida sent you, he'll hook it up!


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Thank you for the reference for ordering parts! Regarding the invoice image...does that mean 1x Quantity of "washer" or "Seal Ring" containers multiple O rings? I noticed the instructions on the original post listed multiple O rings (at least 6 in total), whereas the "Quantity" for "Washers" and "Seal Rings" in the parts list only adds up to 4.

Additionally, how did you get the Thermostat for $46.50?? Searching online, it seems like my 2011 S4's thermostat is $160ish. (I'm assuming we have the exact same engine/installation instructions since it's a V6 3.0T).

And lastly, my radiator cooling fan (on the driver's side) is malfunctioning. When the car is completely off and I gently flick the driver's side cooling fan with my finger, it does not budge. However, if I try flicking the passenger side cooling fan, it spins with ease. Maybe the motor or brushes are damaged? According to the Audi parts website, that cooling fan blade costs a whopping $838! I'm wondering if I can just unplug the fan and try to repair it. Do you have any links on how to remove the fan blade from the car? Most places say I have to remove the front bumper assembly and radiator, whereas some places say they managed to replace the fan without removing the whole assembly. Do you know a place where I can get instructions on how to do this? I don't have a step by step guide on either method.

Since my 2011 Audi S4 is overheating and coolant levels are fine, I'm assuming I have a thermostat failure, and that the cooling fan failure is possibly a result of it trying to spin too fast in order to cool down the engine. However, a $1200 thermostat repair + huge cooling fan cost is not something I can afford.

I haven't repaired a car before, but I'm hoping I'm enough of an engineer to be able to pull it off (I've soldered motherboards, built 3D printers, worked with mechanical parts on those lines). Would love to hear your thoughts.

Best regards,
Arjun

[mrb5_supra_wrx]

So if using a vacuum bleeder on the coolant system like the Schwaben to refill once the job is done is it still any further bleeding need to be done to the system such as to the charger or heater core itself or is it a true airless system bleed?

[S4'ed]

Mine just started failing...I was seeing intermittent higher than normal temperatures on my P3 gauge...in stop and go traffic it never went higher than about 217F, but I began seeing occasional 225F peaks...then I knew that the thermostat was starting to fail. And the engine coolant temp gauge on the dash never moved a millimeter off of the center "normal" mark.

Replaced thermostat, and some pre-emptive items : waterpump, fresh G12 antifreeze, lower crank pulley, both belts, changed the supercharger gear oil, replaced the sc coolant bleed screws, and installed the intercooler center radiator rock-guard/screen. Pulling the radiator support to the "Service Position" was a must-do to get access to all this, especially the front coolant crossover pipe, and the crank pulley. Used a cheapy (Ebay $55) vacuum coolant refill tool, worked great, no conventional bleeding was required. I spent 4 of my weekends doing this repair....I can see why Audi charges $1300 for this repair (just for a thermostat replacement).

Car has 51,000 miles on the original thermostat. The original plastic waterpump was replaced when the car was new, due to the TSB.

Side Note : The intake valves did not have much carbon deposits on them, looked better than I expected.

[BucDan]

What's the average mileage for a Thermostat change? What about a water pump?

[S4'ed]

My guess is that the thermostats typically fail every 50,000 to 70,000 miles. Unless you have the original plastic waterpump, the metal bodied version should last 100,000 miles +.
The thing is, there is so much work to get the thermostat changed, you might as well do the waterpump too.

[juniorcruzer]

Anyone have any idea how to get the connector off the coolant crossover pipe that is under the supercharger that plugs into the thermostat housing? I have the front out, and the screw undone, but cannot figure out how to get it to disconnect from the hose that goes into the firewall. It is number 20 in this image.

http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/...ei5qcGc=/?ref=



Thank you.

Jon

***I figured it out*** It is one of those snap on connectors.

[05whtaudia6]

Thank you for a great post, i changed out my thermostat following the procedure with no issues on my 2011 audi a6.
I do have a few questions:

Does any one know the part number for the bleeder screws on the supercharger? i need to replace one.

I am having issues with the coolant temp sensor that goes in the coolant cross over pipe; i am not sure if it is the sensor or the wiring?
Does anyone know the resistance range of the sensor, what should i measure when the temperature gauge is in the middle ?
Is there a voltage reading i should measure on the wire cap connector? any help would be appreciated.

[Whitee]

Thank you for a great post, i changed out my thermostat following the procedure with no issues on my 2011 audi a6.
I do have a few questions:

Does any one know the part number for the bleeder screws on the supercharger? i need to replace one.

I am having issues with the coolant temp sensor that goes in the coolant cross over pipe; i am not sure if it is the sensor or the wiring?
Does anyone know the resistance range of the sensor, what should i measure when the temperature gauge is in the middle ?
Is there a voltage reading i should measure on the wire cap connector? any help would be appreciated.

When you say issues with the coolant temp sensor, what exactly do you mean? Is the needle staying on the middle hash when the car is fully warm and driving?


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[05whtaudia6]

It was all working normal, a few months down i noticed the needle would sometimes not pass the first hash but everything seemed fine. It also went to the middle as it should on other times i drove. And sometimes the needle would move from middle to first hash. the other day the needle went all the way down and stayed there. Of course all the situations i mentioned was when the car is fully warm.

[Whitee]

It was all working normal, a few months down i noticed the needle would sometimes not pass the first hash but everything seemed fine. It also went to the middle as it should on other times i drove. And sometimes the needle would move from middle to first hash. the other day the needle went all the way down and stayed there. Of course all the situations i mentioned was when the car is fully warm.

Dis you properly bleed the system? Typically if there is air in the system it could also cause they fluctuations. Also did you replace the water pump? Can you check actual coolant temp while driving?


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[05whtaudia6]

Dis you properly bleed the system? Typically if there is air in the system it could also cause they fluctuations. Also did you replace the water pump? Can you check actual coolant temp while driving?


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i believe i bled the system i used the bleeder screws on the supercharger and the one entering the heater exchange by the fire wall. Do I know 100 percent if its perfect i do not, should i flush the system and get a vacuum purge? This is why i also asked for information regarding resistance value of temp sensor and possible way to test the wires.

[05whtaudia6]

Dis you properly bleed the system? Typically if there is air in the system it could also cause they fluctuations. Also did you replace the water pump? Can you check actual coolant temp while driving?


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i do have the ross tech vcds, would that allow me to see temperature while driving? I did not replace water pump but it seems to be working, no leaking or dripping.

[Whitee]

i believe i bled the system i used the bleeder screws on the supercharger and the one entering the heater exchange by the fire wall. Do I know 100 percent if its perfect i do not, should i flush the system and get a vacuum purge? This is why i also asked for information regarding resistance value of temp sensor and possible way to test the wires.

I would get coolant temps with the VCDS and then test the resistance using a multi meter and report back. The coolant refill tool from schwaben is amazing and I highly recommend it. The screws are known to break. A helpful tip if you have to use the screws is to notch the heads so u can use a Phillips or flat head to turn them. Let us know.


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[05whtaudia6]

I would get coolant temps with the VCDS and then test the resistance using a multi meter and report back. The coolant refill tool from schwaben is amazing and I highly recommend it. The screws are known to break. A helpful tip if you have to use the screws is to notch the heads so u can use a Phillips or flat head to turn them. Let us know.


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i saw the schwaben model 3466, is this the correct one?

[05whtaudia6]

does any one know what size adapter is required for the expansion tank to use the coolant refill tool?

[Whitee]

does any one know what size adapter is required for the expansion tank to use the coolant refill tool?

I wanna say the 38 but I may be off. I can check when I get home. The kit comes with a few adapters and one of them fits.


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[S4'ed]

For the vacuum refill tool, the inside diameter of the coolant tank opening is 36 mm.

Concerning the temperature gauge, if the needle suddenly drops to a lower temperature, or quickly rises, that sounds like the temperature sensor is intermittent.

[05whtaudia6]

thanks for everyone's help; i decided to go with the oemtools version just so i can have it for the weekend and will change out the sensor and o ring and do a full flush

[rattler555]

Great write-up. Gearing up for my WP replacement this Weds. Doing t-stat as well. Just got "coolant pump malfunction last week". 67K - APR stage II since 15k. Anyone have input on if I should throw a new temp sensor in as well?

Cheers

[05whtaudia6]

Its up to you really, the temp sensor isn't to difficult to change but since you already have the coolant drained and easier access since your taking out cross over pipe I would.

[05whtaudia6]

even thou i used a vacuum purge\filler, i also bleed the system at the bleed screws behind the super cooler and under the black cover i bleed this two hoses.

[05whtaudia6]

can anyone tell me if i have correctly placed the clip on the temp sensor. I am not sure if it needs to be pushed all the way in.

[mkiii2.0jetta]

can anyone tell me if i have correctly placed the clip on the temp sensor. I am not sure if it needs to be pushed all the way in.

Yeah that's right. That clip doesnt go all the way up against the housing so that you can remove it easily. If you pull the clip back off you would see a round cutout on both legs of the clip that fit around the outer diameter of the sensor and locate the clip into place right where you have it now.

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[maty360414]

great for switching with ported S/C

[05whtaudia6]

so i definitely have a bad temperature sensor connector. Does anyone know where i can get the connector cap or do i need to replace the whole harness

[Schmutzekugels]

I have pulled the supercharger off and am prepping for thermostat and vacuum pump rebuild(parts shipping). I noticed the back left intake port is much cleaner looking than the rest. I can post pictures anyone know what this might be from?

[Bailster]

Great Write up!! Hardest part was un-doing some of the connectors. 1 broke to the throttle body and 1 on the Supercharger (Gray/Black) when I pulled the Gray part to unlock it, it went flying across the car to Black hole. ha. Coolant pipe bolt is in such a bad location at the back of the engine. It took while to get off. Pictures and marking all the connectors and vacuum hoses is a must. The front coolant crossover pipe you pretty much can't see the bolts. I was able to get the pass side off but only loosened the drivers side because it's so hard to see the bolts and wasn't sure I could get them back in. Just have to Pry on the Pipe a bit to get the Thermostat housing out and in. Audi wasn't much help in finding some O-ring part numbers for the Coolant Pipe that runs from the back of the Thermostat to the back of the engine. ECS was a big help. They knew exactly what I needed. They should make up a kit for a pcv/thermostat job.

[Schmutzekugels]

I just finished the disassembly for vacuum pump rebuild, coolant pipes (front crossover and heater core to tstat), thermostat and PCV replacement. The front lip of the coolant pipe from the heater core to the port in the galley behind the thermostat was broken and the o-ring was shot. I also have to replace the front crossover coolant pipe because the tip of the pipe where it goes into the thermostat housing was also broken. No doubt from someone prying it out without removing the water pump pulley. Even with all the bolts and hoses off the pulley still needed to be removed to clear without prying. I would recommend to everyone to take your time and follow the steps posted. A huge thank you for listing torque specs and part #’s! My intercoolers have some oily buildup on them (should I clean them and with what) and one of my intake flaps has a different color to it like it burned hotter or had coolant in it maybe. I’ll add pictures and if anyone has some insight it would be appreciated.58275570258__B24B8B7F-00AB-4365-BD62-AE497D8CD12D.JPG58275569250__741D7553-FFEE-4583-803F-16C323ED3D77.JPG58292441450__77083AAE-0465-4564-9D48-3F50B779F695.JPG58284868578__824A15B8-21B6-4230-8989-B93C553C7DFF.JPG58284872827__01BAD895-360B-40B4-AAFD-A70C72CB2B80.JPG




Schmutzekugels

[trayson]

If I am only replacing the water pump, is it possible to do this without taking off the SC?

[chikalick]

I cant see any of the images anymore. Does anyone else have this issue or is it something on my end?

[djn876]

Yes, but it's a pain since it'll be hard to see where you are trying to work.. At least put the front end in service position to give yourself some more room and you should be OK. Use a lighted mirror to help see where some of the bolts are/go when putting everything back together.

If I am only replacing the water pump, is it possible to do this without taking off the SC?

[trayson]

Yes, but it's a pain since it'll be hard to see where you are trying to work.. At least put the front end in service position to give yourself some more room and you should be OK. Use a lighted mirror to help see where some of the bolts are/go when putting everything back together.

Thanks. I bit the bullet and did both the Thermostat and the water pump. I definitely pulled off the bumper and slid the radiator forward. Unfortunately I initially missed the screw that holds the thermostat in and ended up breaking the lip off the crossover pipe (where the o-ring is). Sucked because It was over thanksgiving weekend and I was 1 day away from a 2500 mile road trip. In the end I was able to get really creative with some O-rings from the plumbing store and fabricate up a good enough seal on the themostat to crossover pipe connection. (although I had to take the SC off 2 more times before I finally got it sealed up enough! In the end, I got DAMN good at the removal and replacement of the SC.

I think that it's virtually impossible to get the thermostat out without removing the two screws that hold the crossover pipe to the block on the passenger side. without that give on the crossover pipe, it's near impossible to get the thermostat in/out and seated correctly. Hence why removing the bumper and giving yourself the extra room by sliding the radiator out is pretty valuable.

[djn876]

Yup, I was able to get it out by loosening both ends of the crossover pipe until it was unthreaded almost all the way, then was able to wiggle it out/back in. That stuff sucks though, and hopefully you won't have to go back into it any time soon.

[dafried]

Anyone have any idea how to get the connector off the coolant crossover pipe that is under the supercharger that plugs into the thermostat housing? I have the front out, and the screw undone, but cannot figure out how to get it to disconnect from the hose that goes into the firewall. It is number 20 in this image.

http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/...ei5qcGc=/?ref=



Thank you.

Jon

***I figured it out*** It is one of those snap on connectors.

I know it's been a while, but I have the exact same issue right now. Can you please elaborate on snap-on connector? I have the new pipe and no idea how to remove it. I am afraid to break something. thanks in advance