Complete DIY for 3.0T Thermostat Parts, Manual, photos tips!

[Brd.Prey]

This took 8 hours with 2 people the first time. We both think about 6 hours or less the next time. We didn't know the water pump pulley, vacuum pump and air box removal was required. The supercharger part is easy the stuff in the tight quarters up in front not so much. In the end I saved $1250 plus would feel comfortable doing this on friends vehicles.




SUPERCHARGER REMOVAL



1- Engine lifting eye

2- Bolt
27Nm

3- Supercharger
With charge air coolers
Removing and installing supercharger.
Charge air coolers - exploded view.

4- Insulating plate

5- Bolt
5Nm

6- Rubber grommet
2x

7- Intermediate flange

8- Bolt
Tightening torque*>*Rep. gr.24

9- Throttle valve module -J338-
Removing and installing > Rep. gr.24

10- O-rings
Renew

11- Connection

12- Bolt
Tightening torque and sequence > Rep. gr.24

13- Bracket For change-over valves

14- Bolt
9Nm

15- Bolt Tightening torque and sequence > Rep. gr.24

16- Intermediate flange

17- Regulating flap control unit -J808-
Removing and installing > Rep. gr.24

18- Bleeder screw For charge air cooler (left-side)
1.5 ... 3.0 Nm

19- Bolt
Tightening torque > Rep. gr.24

20- Intake air temperature sender -G42-
Removing and installing > Rep. gr.24

21- O-rings
Renew

22- Nut
20Nm

23- O-ring
Renew

24- Threaded pin
17Nm

25- Bolt Self-locking
Renew
Before assembly, always remove residues from threaded holes using a thread tap
10Nm

26- Charge pressure sender
Cylinder bank 1 (right-side): charge pressure sender -G31-
Cylinder bank 2 (left-side): charge pressure sender*2 -G447-
Removing and installing.

27-Seals
Renew

28- O-ring
Renew

29- Connection For crankcase breather
Installation position*>*Fig.

30- O-ring
Renew


Removing:
Remove poly V-belt for supercharger.
Remove both belts:
Supercharger easiest from underneath. 16mm
Accessory belt from the top. 17mm

Place drip tray for workshop hoist -VAS 6208- beneath engine.

Tip* Extract the coolant from the reservoir, squish the radiator hose and this will force more coolant in to reservoir. No coolant will be come out of the supercharger hoses this way.

Clamp off coolant hoses using hose clamps -3094-, release hose clips -1- and detach coolant hoses from coolant pipes on supercharger.



Tip* Take a silver and black sharpie and mark ALL vacuum hoses and connectors before removing.

Move fuel hose -1- and hose -2- from activated*charcoal filter clear at air pipe.
Detach vacuum hose -3- from connection on air pipe.
Remove air pipe. To do so, release hose clip -4- and clamps -arrows-.
Remove air box, optional but it makes for a lot more visibility.



Unplug electrical connector -3- at activated charcoal filter solenoid valve 1 -N80- and detach vacuum hose -4- (press release tabs).
Detach activated charcoal filter solenoid valve 1 -N80- from bracket and move it clear to the side with hose still attached.



Unplug electrical connector arrow at throttle valve module -J338-.




Unplug electrical connector arrow at regulating flap control unit -J808-.




Unplug electrical connectors 1, 2, 3.
Note: Mark position of vacuum hoses for re-installation.



Disconnect vacuum hoses 4...7.
Unplug electrical connector 1 at intake air temperature sender -G42-/intake manifold pressure sender -G71-.
Note: Disregard arrows.



If fitted, unplug electrical connector 3 and disconnect vacuum hoses 1 and 2.



Move clear vacuum hose 1.
Remove bolts -arrows-on both sides and detach cover/bracket



Move clear vacuum hose 2 leading to brake servo at bracket 1.



Unplug electrical connectors -1- and -2-.



Remove nuts -arrows- and lift off supercharger with charge air coolers.
Tip* Place long 3/8 extensions thru the engine lifting rings to provide a good hand hold.



Seal openings on supercharger and all relevant ducts and hoses of the charge air system with plugs from engine bung set -VAS 6122-.
Detach noise insulation panels.

Installing

Installation is carried out in the reverse order; note the following:
Tightening torques. „Supercharger - exploded view“
Renew seals and/or gaskets.
Hose connections and air pipes and hoses must be free of oil and grease before assembly.
Secure all hose connections with the correct type of hose clips (same as original equipment)> Electronic parts catalogue.
To secure the air hoses at their connections, spray rust remover onto the worm thread of the used hose clips before installing.
Ensure that crankcase breather connection is positioned correctly > Fig. when fitting supercharger.
Install poly V-belt for supercharger
Fill up with coolant






1-Bolt
9nm

2-Coolant*pipes (front left).
Removing and installing.

3-Bolt
9Nm

4-Bolt
9nm

5-Bracket

6-Bolt
22Nm

7-Retainingclip

8-Bolt
9Nm

9-Coolant*pipe (front)
Removing and installing.

10-Seal
Renew

11-O-rings
Renew

12-Coolant*temperature sender -G62-
Removing and installing.

13-Coolant pipe (bottom) on supercharger
Remove and install together with-item 17-.

14-Bolt
5Nm

15-Dowel sleeve
2x

16-Bolt
5Nm

17-Seals
Renew

18-Coolant pipe (top) on supercharger
Remove and install together with -item 11.

19-O-ring
Renew

20-Coolant*pipe (top)
Removing and installing .

21-Bolt
9*Nm

22-Seal
Renew

23-Bolt.
9Nm

24- Bolts.
9Nm

25- Coolant*pipes (left-side)
Removing and installing.

26- O-ring
Renew

Coolant Pipes Remove and Replace



Removing and installing coolant pipe (front)

Special tools and workshop equipment required Pin Wrench 3212
Tip* You must remove the water pump pulley to remove the front coolant hose out of the thermostat. I bought a Pin Wrench off Amazon for Audi and VW. $14



Removing
Drain*coolant*.*(or on vehicles equipped with*continued*coolant*circulation*pump -V51- remove*continued*coolant*circulation*pump*.).
Remove air duct -arrow-.
Remove coolant pipes (front left)
Remove poly V-belt:
Remove vacuum pump>Rep. gr.47.
*Tip 3 bolts you can then flip it up out of the way.
Remove bolts for Coolant pump pulley (counterhold with pin wrench -3212-).
Detach poly-V-belt pulley.



Since we are not removing the coolant pipe all the way this is where we remove the 5 bolts holding the coolant pipe into the thermostat housing.
Unplug electrical connector -3- at coolant temperature sender -G62-.
Lift retaining clips and disconnect coolant hoses -1 and 4-.
Release hose clip-2-and detach coolant hose (top).
Loosen hose clip-5-.
Unscrew bolts-arrows-and remove*coolant*pipe*(front)



Installation is carried out in the reverse order; note the following:
Tightening torques. „Coolant pipes - exploded view“
Note
Renew seals and O-rings.
Secure all hose connections with the correct type of hose clips (same as original e.~uipment)>*Electronic parts catalogue.
Clean or smoothen sealing surfaces for seals and O-rings.
Lubricate seals and O-rings with coolant and slide onto coolant pipe.
Connect coolant hose with plug-in connector>Fig..
Install coolant pipes (left-side)..
Install air conditioner compressor>Rep. gr.87.
Install poly V-belt pulley for coolant pump..
Install vacuum pump>Rep. gr.47.
Install poly V-belt:
„Removing and installing poly V-belt - vehicles with hydraulic power steering“.
„Removing and installing poly V-belt - vehicles with electromechanical power steering“.
Install coolant pipes (front left)..
Install continued coolant circulation pump -V51-..

Fill up with coolant:


1-Bolt
9Nm

2-Bolt
20Nm

3-Poly V-belt pulley for coolant pump

4-Coolant pump
With seal
Removing and installing.

5-Bolt
9Nm

6-Bolt
Tightening torque>Item

7-Washer

8-Idler roller for poly V-belt

9-Connection
For coolant hose

10-Gasket
Renew

11-Gasket
Renew

12-Thermostat

13-Bolt
9*Nm

14 -Coolant valve for cylinder head -N489-

Thermostat Remove and Replace


Checking Thermostat

Heat removed thermostat in water bath.

Starts to open
Fully open
Opening travel
approx. 87 °C
approx. 102 °C*1)
at least 8 mm
1)*Cannot be tested.


COOLANT FILL and BLEED
Place a cloth underneath to catch escaping coolant.
Tip* A mechanical impact driver with a #3 phillips is best for loosing the bleed screws.
2000 rpm is required for coolant to be forced into the supercharger and heater core.

Open bleeder screws -1-and-2- one after the other until coolant flows out.

Close bleeder screws.



Pull seal off plenum chamber partition panel.

Remove plenum chamber cover >Rep. gr.50.



Release coolant hose going to heat exchanger and pull back hose until coolant flows out at bleeder hole -arrow- in coolant hose.

Push coolant hose back onto connection and*secure*with spring-type hose clip.

On*vehicles*with auxiliary heater, switch heater on (for about 30 seconds) and then off again.

Tighten filler cap on expansion tank, making sure it engages.

Start engine.

Set temperature to „HI“ for all zones and select lowest blower speed (= 0).

Switch off air conditioner compressor (press AC button).

LED in button should not light up.

Run engine for 3 minutes at 2000*rpm.

Allow engine to run at idling speed until two large coolant hoses at radiator become warm.

Run engine for 2 minutes at 2000rpm.

Switch off ignition and allow engine to cool down.

Install noise insulation*>*Rep. gr.66.




Check coolant level.

The coolant level must be at the MAX marking when the engine is cold.


The coolant level can be above the MAX marking when the engine is warm
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[bhvrdr]

[bronz]

awesome!!! thanks

[Usa]

Wow, nice DIY!

[AudBoost]

That's a serious write up! Nice job!

[brainpan]

A fuckin +

[niner]

Wow! I wished shop manual is like this!

[BoostEasy]

Very nice write up! Thanks!

I must be half-asleep as when I started reading this, I thought it was for t-stat AND water pump replacement. Then the sickening realization hit me that you literally spent 8 hours removing and replacing a t-stat. I'm not saying you work slow, it's just an overly-complicated beast to work on.

No wonder some people were reporting $1000 repair bills from the dealer to change it.

Nice job!

[derek.kritz]

Wow!!! I was thinkin bout changing my pcv valve myself this summer. This will help a lot. Thank u!!!


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[tanklee]

good write up.

it takes me about 2hrs to do a thermostat. and i dont take the front coolant pipe, water pump pulley, belt, or vacuum pump off.

[shadycrew31]

Best DIY in the B8 section!

[Vogz]

Subbed! Thanks!

[o1turbo30v]

good write up.

it takes me about 2hrs to do a thermostat. and i dont take the front coolant pipe, water pump pulley, belt, or vacuum pump off.

Then perhaps provide us your diy version........

[Brd.Prey]

Very nice write up! Thanks!

I must be half-asleep as when I started reading this, I thought it was for t-stat AND water pump replacement. Then the sickening realization hit me that you literally spent 8 hours removing and replacing a t-stat. I'm not saying you work slow, it's just an overly-complicated beast to work on.

No wonder some people were reporting $1000 repair bills from the dealer to change it.

Nice job!

Dealer quote $1356, 6.5 hours labor.
The water pump is actually easier.

[Brd.Prey]

good write up.

it takes me about 2hrs to do a thermostat. and i dont take the front coolant pipe, water pump pulley, belt, or vacuum pump off.

Yea, show me the video!!! since I couldn't get the thermostat out with the front coolant loose and lifting the thermostat and wigging. The water pump pulley blocked the coolant pipe from coming clear of the thermostat. So good on yea, I follow the factory service recommended procedures when available!

[DGVR6]

You've won the B8S4 section.

[AudiDTMA4]

Somebody get this guy an Audizine shirt. Best DIY yet.

Kudos sir

[AudBoost]

OP are you a member of Audi Sport of Tampa? Was this Pam's car?

[mrmomo313]

Thanks for the write up. Will keep this bookmarked in case mine decides to fail!

[brad281]

Wow!!! I was thinkin bout changing my pcv valve myself this summer. This will help a lot. Thank u!!!


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Replace your thermostat while doing it. You're 70% there already.

[brad281]

Great write up! Thanks for posting

[Brd.Prey]

OP are you a member of Audi Sport of Tampa? Was this Pam's car?

Yes, I am and yes it was!

[AudBoost]

Yes, I am and yes it was!

I figured as much. Wanted to swing by and lend a hand but got tied up with family duties.

[tanklee]

yea, ill try and see if i can get a diy up the next time i do it. not trying to one up anyone or take anything away from OPs post (good job OP, i dont think i have the time and patience to write all that up!) it's kinda hard for me as im doing it on flat rate and its going to take time to document every step.

edit: or maybe ill just document the steps around the front coolant pipe, water pump pulley, and vacuum pump.

[BoostEasy]

Yea, show me the video!!! since I couldn't get the thermostat out with the front coolant loose and lifting the thermostat and wigging. The water pump pulley blocked the coolant pipe from coming clear of the thermostat. So good on yea, I follow the factory service recommended procedures when available!

I was wondering about this too. It LOOKS like the thermostat might possibly be able to come up and out with the coolant pipe in place but until you try it...

Maybe a little "persuasion" with a long screw driver or small prybar could move the coolant pipe just enough to wiggle the t-stat out. But then again, I can see that plastic pipe cracking and ruining one's day!

[tanklee]

I was wondering about this too. It LOOKS like the thermostat might possibly be able to come up and out with the coolant pipe in place but until you try it...

Maybe a little "persuasion" with a long screw driver or small prybar could move the coolant pipe just enough to wiggle the t-stat out. But then again, I can see that plastic pipe cracking and ruining one's day!

bingo. you take out the 2 left t30 torxs bolts on the coolant pipe, and loosen the 2 right t30 torx bolts (all the way until the last couple threads) on the coolant pipe. you loosen the 3 pulley triple square bolts until the last thread or two, and just pry the pulley and coolant pipe away from thermostat as far is it goes. its a real tight fit, but with a little wiggling, it comes right out. loosening the bolts til the last couple threads gives it just enough space to pull the thermostat out. havent broken a coolant pipe yet.

[jayts]

Sticky!!!!!

[Brd.Prey]

bingo. you take out the 2 left t30 torxs bolts on the coolant pipe, and loosen the 2 right t30 torx bolts (all the way until the last couple threads) on the coolant pipe. you loosen the 3 pulley triple square bolts until the last thread or two, and just pry the pulley and coolant pipe away from thermostat as far is it goes. its a real tight fit, but with a little wiggling, it comes right out. loosening the bolts til the last couple threads gives it just enough space to pull the thermostat out. havent broken a coolant pipe yet.

I had all 5 front crossover bolts removed! Thermostat unbolted and two of us couldn't get it out. Breaking the coolant pipe wasn't worth the risk.

Flat rate is not an excuse for half rate!

If you don't remove the crossover pipe how do you change the orings?
This car had the thermostat replaced on recall in at 11,000 miles. Probably explains the nick on the supercharger intake sealing surface and the missing bolt on the vertical cooling pipes and loose screw on the thermostat where it's hard to reach. Oh yea and the punched PCV oring.

Audi spends a lot of money to research and write repair manuals. To bad most people don't follow them. Makes you think now I know why most troubleshooting is done by Germany with car hooked up to the factory computer.

Sorry for ranting but there is a good reason why I do my own maintenance. I don't cut corners to increase speed.

[derek.kritz]

Replace your thermostat while doing it. You're 70% there already.

I have a 2010. 99% sure it was already done. But will do some more research to find out.


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[brad281]

I have a 2010. 99% sure it was already done. But will do some more research to find out.


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The car in question was done under recall at 11k miles and it went bad again at 45k. Just a good idea while you have it apart. The parts are cheap by comparison.

[Brd.Prey]

The car in question was done under recall at 11k miles and it went bad again at 45k. Just a good idea while you have it apart. The parts are cheap by comparison.

+1

[brad281]

I had all 5 front crossover bolts removed! Thermostat unbolted and two of us couldn't get it out. Breaking the coolant pipe wasn't worth the risk.

Flat rate is not an excuse for half rate!

If you don't remove the crossover pipe how do you change the orings?
This car had the thermostat replaced on recall in at 11,000 miles. Probably explains the nick on the supercharger intake sealing surface and the missing bolt on the vertical cooling pipes and loose screw on the thermostat where it's hard to reach. Oh yea and the punched PCV oring.

Audi spends a lot of money to research and write repair manuals. To bad most people don't follow them. Makes you think now I know why most troubleshooting is done by Germany with car hooked up to the factory computer.

Sorry for ranting but there is a good reason why I do my own maintenance. I don't cut corners to increase speed.

+2

[tanklee]

I had all 5 front crossover bolts removed! Thermostat unbolted and two of us couldn't get it out. Breaking the coolant pipe wasn't worth the risk.

Flat rate is not an excuse for half rate!

If you don't remove the crossover pipe how do you change the orings?
This car had the thermostat replaced on recall in at 11,000 miles. Probably explains the nick on the supercharger intake sealing surface and the missing bolt on the vertical cooling pipes and loose screw on the thermostat where it's hard to reach. Oh yea and the punched PCV oring.

Audi spends a lot of money to research and write repair manuals. To bad most people don't follow them. Makes you think now I know why most troubleshooting is done by Germany with car hooked up to the factory computer.

Sorry for ranting but there is a good reason why I do my own maintenance. I don't cut corners to increase speed.

haha fair enough. i am also the only one to touch my car, and who knows about the guy that replaced it before. you can slip in the o-rings without taking the pipe off. it might take some getting used to though. after doing it so many times, it becomes easier and you learn small tricks along the way.

[drob23]

Wow great thread OP!

[Brd.Prey]

Thanks to everyone for all the props. I write my DIY as I want to find them. I usually post in the TT mk2 section of fourtitude. I found there 3.0t section lacking. I found the most useful info here so that is why I posted it here. The car is actually an 2011 S5 cab. Since the cab got the 3.0 in 2010 but the coupe didn't get it till 2013 the S5 section has very little people. The S4 crowd is more active.
I have a DSG fluid filter DIY I can repost here if someone things they could use it.
Ed

[Sukks2bu]

Thanks op, this is what the AZ is all about.
Sticky please

[gringoloco2000]

1. Thank you man. Awesome DIY that I will need sooner or later.
2. Audi, WTF on plastic thermostats?
3. The first thermostat I changed was on a '77 Nova and it too me 20 minutes. Those where the days.

[derek.kritz]

The car in question was done under recall at 11k miles and it went bad again at 45k. Just a good idea while you have it apart. The parts are cheap by comparison.

Well then, yes will do then when apart. Good lookin.


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[Boris]

good write up.

it takes me about 2hrs to do a thermostat. and i dont take the front coolant pipe, water pump pulley, belt, or vacuum pump off.

+1, although i couldnt do it in 2, but still this is not a write up for a DIY, this is crazy. no one takes the whole front off like this, just go in from the top.

You're not saving any money doing it this way unless you make $10/hr , I dont think most could even do the job this way in 8 hours.

to familiarize yourself with the car, or for fun, sure go for it, but it's clear this method goes through all this trouble, but you are STILL wriggling out the thermostat in a tight condition if your just loosening the coolant pipe and not take it clear off. your adding 5-7 hours for one part that is just tough.

totally uneccessary, and I would urge any DIY'er to not follow this method as unless you are a very experienced tech you are in for a world of hurt doing it the full monty this way.
I know because I dropped a screw and needed to then take off the whole front. totally uneccesary. ymmv

[stereojorge]

+1, although i couldnt do it in 2, but still this is not a write up for a DIY, this is crazy. no one takes the whole front off like this, just go in from the top.

You're not saving any money doing it this way unless you make $10/hr , I dont think most could even do the job this way in 8 hours.

to familiarize yourself with the car, or for fun, sure go for it, but it's clear this method goes through all this trouble, but you are STILL wriggling out the thermostat in a tight condition if your just loosening the coolant pipe and not take it clear off. your adding 5-7 hours for one part that is just tough.

totally uneccessary, and I would urge any DIY'er to not follow this method as unless you are a very experienced tech you are in for a world of hurt doing it the full monty this way.
I know because I dropped a screw and needed to then take off the whole front. totally uneccesary. ymmv

So wait, are you saying the OPs elaborate and informative DIY is crazy, or the gentleman who said 2 hours is?


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