Broken headlight harness clip, need help removing/fixing.

[mcanedo92588]

So unfortunately when I got the car, whoever had worked on the headlight previously had broken the tab which you pull up on to release the clip and remove the harness from the headlight. One of the sides was disconnected from the tab, so when I needed to remove the headlights or change the bulb, I would have to take a pair of pliers and use those to pull up on the tab to get it to release. I guess doing that a few too many times ended up completely killing the tab, it actually came all the way off the other day and now there is nothing to pull up on to release the harness. The two sides of the tab are still in tact, but the top bar that goes across and connects the sides is missing now and there is nothing to grip on to in order to pull up and release the headlight harness. Any ideas? A new drivers side harness is about $400, all just to fix the stupid broken tab...? It also doesn't look very pleasant to try and install either, so I am hoping there is a more simple solution. The harness is still snapped in properly, it doesn't just sit on, so I have to find a way to release the tab and get it to unlock so I can slide it off. Any thoughts?

Where the arrow is pointing is the top bar that broke off from the tab.

[Spike00513]

I can't see the pic.

The solution is to de-pin/remove the old toast conenctor with a paper clip, and buy a new one for $1-$10. I recommend the same PN. The new superceded PN is differently shaped, sucks, and breaks.

You don't need that top bar to disengage the connectors locking feature either. If you look closely, you can see how it actually works. As well as by examining the corresponding plug it connects to on the headlight. You'd use a small flat-head screwdriver or pick, to disengage it, rather than doing the traditional method of using the tab (since yours is broken).

[mcanedo92588]

I can't see the pic.

The solution is to de-pin/remove the old toast conenctor with a paper clip, and buy a new one for $1-$10. I recommend the same PN. The new superceded PN is differently shaped, sucks, and breaks.

You don't need that top bar to disengage the connectors locking feature either. If you look closely, you can see how it actually works. As well as by examining the corresponding plug it connects to on the headlight. You'd use a small flat-head screwdriver or pick, to disengage it, rather than doing the traditional method of using the tab (since yours is broken).

Where can you just buy the new connector, I saw an old thread where some guy said he bought one from dth or something for like $12? I tried looking around, but all I am finding are ignition coil harnesses. I will try and give it a go with the flathead screwdrive and see if I can manage to disengage it without the cross bar tab in tact. Why does Audi have to make their parts complicated? My parents Chevy Malibu have a top lever that locks the entire headlight in place, turn it and just slide the thing out and remove the harness super easy. :/

[Spike00513]

The part number is written on the connector housing.

[diagnosticator]

To remove the connector, first press the connector toward the housing to unload the retainer clip. Otherwise it will not disengage easily. That is also why the connector release tab gets mangled in the first place, not unloading the retainer clip first.

After you worry/fuss the connector off of the housing, however you manage that, to remove the terminals to swap into the new connector housing, slide the purple secondary retainer bar sideways out of the slot in the connector.

Then using a paper clip (there are connector terminal release tools made for this,) bent straight, carefully insert the clip wire into the small square hole in the face of the connector, there is a retaining tang inside that must be pushed toward the terminal body in order to slide the terminal out of the connector housing. When the release wire is inserted into the connector housing unload the retainer tang by pushing the terminal in the housing toward the face of the connector, so that the tang can be pushed aside by the clip wire. Otherwise, the tang will hang up inside the connector and the wire won't push the tang aside toward the terminal.

With the wire release tool inserted fully, you should feel the wire push the tang aside, and the wire will move into the connector a bit further. Next, pull the wire and terminal out of the connector.

Before reinserting the terminal into the new connector, carefully bend the retaining tang back out away from the terminal body in order to engage again in the new connector housing.

After swapping all the wire terminals, slide the purple locking plate back into the slot fully, then recover the back side with the boot if used.

If the terminal does not come out the first time reinsert the release wire and try again. It would help if the end of the wire was shaped in a sharp straight wedge shape too.

BTW, with a good undamaged connector, the release tab is pushed toward the connector body, not pulled up away from the connector body, to release the retainer tab.

The dealer has the connector housing for a reasonable cost.

The terminal swap must be done without damaging any of the wire terminals. Any damaged terminals must be replaced. Bent up out of shape terminals are ruined.

[SJorge3442]

I believe the headlight connector is a 10 pin. Dont hold me to that though.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-...al/Connectors/

[SlickFix]

Click Me!

[mcanedo92588]

To remove the connector, first press the connector toward the housing to unload the retainer clip. Otherwise it will not disengage easily. That is also why the connector release tab gets mangled in the first place, not unloading the retainer clip first.

After you worry/fuss the connector off of the housing, however you manage that, to remove the terminals to swap into the new connector housing, slide the purple secondary retainer bar sideways out of the slot in the connector.

Then using a paper clip (there are connector terminal release tools made for this,) bent straight, carefully insert the clip wire into the small square hole in the face of the connector, there is a retaining tang inside that must be pushed toward the terminal body in order to slide the terminal out of the connector housing. When the release wire is inserted into the connector housing unload the retainer tang by pushing the terminal in the housing toward the face of the connector, so that the tang can be pushed aside by the clip wire. Otherwise, the tang will hang up inside the connector and the wire won't push the tang aside toward the terminal.

With the wire release tool inserted fully, you should feel the wire push the tang aside, and the wire will move into the connector a bit further. Next, pull the wire and terminal out of the connector.

Before reinserting the terminal into the new connector, carefully bend the retaining tang back out away from the terminal body in order to engage again in the new connector housing.

After swapping all the wire terminals, slide the purple locking plate back into the slot fully, then recover the back side with the boot if used.

If the terminal does not come out the first time reinsert the release wire and try again. It would help if the end of the wire was shaped in a sharp straight wedge shape too.

BTW, with a good undamaged connector, the release tab is pushed toward the connector body, not pulled up away from the connector body, to release the retainer tab.

The dealer has the connector housing for a reasonable cost.

The terminal swap must be done without damaging any of the wire terminals. Any damaged terminals must be replaced. Bent up out of shape terminals are ruined.

Thanks for the help, sounds like it might be a little out of my range of experience to do without damaging anything lol, I definitely wouldn't want to break something else and then have to pay $400+ for an entire new harness.

[mcanedo92588]

I believe the headlight connector is a 10 pin. Dont hold me to that though.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-...al/Connectors/

Yeah, the stock oem single xenon headlight connector is a 10 pin, but the one listed on ECS doesn't appear to be the same style.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-...ectors/ES9121/

[diagnosticator]

Thanks for the help, sounds like it might be a little out of my range of experience to do without damaging anything lol, I definitely wouldn't want to break something else and then have to pay $400+ for an entire new harness.

As long as you are careful, and aware of the mistakes to avoid, it is not at all difficult. Consider getting a cut off harness connector from an Audi at a wrecking yard and practice removing the terminals from the spare connector before doing the headlight connector on your car.

[diagnosticator]

Yeah, the stock oem single xenon headlight connector is a 10 pin, but the one listed on ECS doesn't appear to be the same style.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-...ectors/ES9121/

PN for 10 pin contact housing for headlights: 1J0 973 735

The connector housing on the ECS linked webpage is a different part number.

[mcanedo92588]

PN for 10 pin contact housing for headlights: 1J0 973 735

The connector housing on the ECS linked webpage is a different part number.

Thanks man, much appreciated!

[mcanedo92588]

Not sure if I trust it much since it is from China even thought they say "made in Germany..." but I found this on ebay and the price is good. I will call the dealership soon and get a quote first, to avoid any hassle and having to wait a month for delivery first.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flat-Contact...4f04dd&vxp=mtr