Turn Key and Nothing. Have to pump clutch to start car

[AudiTurbo]

So, recently when it's cold out or the cars been sitting a while, I have to pump the clutch over and over (while turning the key over) to get the car to start. I have recently got a new battery, but I don't know if it's the starter or the clutch switch?

Thanks

[B5A4coastie]

If you have to pump the clutch, I would say it's your clutch switch. If you have a second person, you could have them tap on the starter with a small hammer while you try to start the car without pumping. If the car starts this way you know it's the starter. If you're savvy you could also pull the starter and hook it up directly to a battery, be sure to secure the starter in a vise first, once it sees that 12v it should extend the plunger and spin.

[AudiTurbo]

This only happens every once in a while and when it finally sounds like it's going to start, it sounds sluggish then fires right up. Could it be the ignition switch? I know one switch on the clutch is for the cruise control too, which one is which, so I don't get them mixed up? Also, is there a relay somewhere?

Thanks again

[thedownwardsprl]

Intermittent starter issues....it will eventually not start...get it off the car and take it to advance auto parts or oreilly auto parts or whatever local parts store and you can have them test it.

[AudiTurbo]

Intermittent starter issues....it will eventually not start...get it off the car and take it to advance auto parts or oreilly auto parts or whatever local parts store and you can have them test it.

So, are you saying starter, or relay, or clutch switch?


I just had my starter checked the other day and they said it was good.

[B5A4coastie]

Last time I was at an auto part store they only checked starters, alternators and batteries. I doubt they would check a switch, but in theory it should be easy to do once removed, and they most likely have a multi-meter if you do not. The switch will be either normally open or normally closed. Either way, once removed you just need to push it in and see if the continuity changes, via the ohms (omega sign on a multi-meter).

I found this by searching for "b5a4 clutch switch". It explains how the clutch switch is on the clutch pedal (or right behind it), careful though there might be two switches with very different purposes.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ety-switch-diy

[AudiTurbo]

I was saying that they tested my starter and battery and both were okay. Thank you for the info

[Mad Cow]

Look at your clutch pedal, up near the pivot point will be a tiny black switch with 2 wires going to it. Take a paperclip or something and bridge the 2 wires on the connector side and try starting again. If it works that means either the switch is bad or it's not getting pressed in enough and needs to be adjusted.

[smittyzz]

How come I can start my 96 a4 without even touching the clutch?

[walky_talky20]

^The early B5's didn't have the switches.

OP: Just yank the relay out, and bypass it like the other thread describes. If you still experience trouble, you will have INSTANTLY ruled out:
- the clutch switch
- the wiring to said clutch switch
- the starter relay
- the anti-theft system
- the wiring between the anti-theft system and the starter relay

And you will not have to do anything with any of that crap. You can instead focus on things like your starter and your ignition switch.

BUT if you don't have any trouble after the bypass, you can just leave it like that. Yes, you heard right - you could potentially skip fixing this problem altogether. As long as you understand the risks of owning car without a clutch safety interlock, you yourself could own a car where the ignition switch connects directly to the starter solenoid, with zero failure-prone crap in between. You COULD be that guy. You could BE that guy. You could be THAT GUY.

[AudiTurbo]

^The early B5's didn't have the switches.

OP: Just yank the relay out, and bypass it like the other thread describes. If you still experience trouble, you will have INSTANTLY ruled out:
- the clutch switch
- the wiring to said clutch switch
- the starter relay
- the anti-theft system
- the wiring between the anti-theft system and the starter relay

And you will not have to do anything with any of that crap. You can instead focus on things like your starter and your ignition switch.

BUT if you don't have any trouble after the bypass, you can just leave it like that. Yes, you heard right - you could potentially skip fixing this problem altogether. As long as you understand the risks of owning car without a clutch safety interlock, you yourself could own a car where the ignition switch connects directly to the starter solenoid, with zero failure-prone crap in between. You COULD be that guy. You could BE that guy. You could be THAT GUY.

Which relay for sure is it? Thank you for everything

[walky_talky20]

On a 98.5, I think it will be the relay in position #4. You can be certain because it is the only relay that will have 12v on 2 pins ONLY when the key is in the START position.

[AudiTurbo]

I put 98.5, but I think it's a 98. So, it's right next to the big brown wiper relay?
Thanks

[A4ski]

The original post screams clutch inhibitor relay, as Mr. Talky suggests. I had a similar problem with an old truck, bought a $180 starter, and found out it was fixable by bypassing the relay for $0, again, as Mr. Talky suggests. My Mechanic bypassed it for 1/2 hour of labor cost, and I never had a problem again. Just be sure you are in the habit of pushing the clutch before starting.

[B5A4coastie]

You COULD be that guy. You could BE that guy. You could be THAT GUY.

*Slow Clap* well said!

[Bordom]

Nothing wrong with not having a clutch safety switch. I always take the car out of gear before turning the key

[smittyzz]

Nothing wrong with not having a clutch safety switch. I always take the car out of gear before turning the key

I've gotten used to not having to push the clutch in, specially when I'm working on my car and I go to start it with boots with two tons of snow. The wife's car is a nice layer of ice right now lol

When I park my car first thing I do is pull it out of gear and pull the ebrake.

And glad to know my car isn't screwed up lol

[AudiTurbo]

*Slow Clap* well said!

I'm not going to be that guy cause I believe if it is that switch, it needs to be fixed and not bypassed

[walky_talky20]

...as Mr. Talky suggests.

lol'ing @ "Mr. Talky". And "suggests" is absolutely right. I mean, that guy's not even a mechanic.

I've gotten used to not having to push the clutch in, specially when I'm working on my car and I go to start it with boots with two tons of snow.

The other nice side effect is that it's easier on the crankshaft thrust bearings - especially if you have a performance clutch. The Mitsubishi and Supra guys know all about this one.

I'm not going to be that guy cause I believe if it is that switch, it needs to be fixed and not bypassed

Relax. Nobody is forcing you to be that guy. If you want to leave all the tags on your pillows too, that's completely your call.

But truly, this bypass is very useful as a temporary diagnostic step. Especially for intermittent issues. And it should only be left permanent if it's just *your* car. And it won't be driven by random persons who normally drive automatics. Those people love to just throw the key in, TURN, and ask questions later. "Later" usually being after they go through the garage door, or hop the curb and drive into a Taco Bell dining room.

[Mad Cow]

I too like my clutch switch, once or twice I forgot to push the clutch it while starting in gear. If I didn't have the switch I'd have a nice table-shaped mark on my front bumper and possibly a broken headlight. You know the saying, idiot proof something and you'll just find a better idiot.

[AudiTurbo]

So, I found out that my alternator is bad. Mine is the one with 2 bolt down post. I have one that has a 2 prong clip and one bolt down.
Any way of swapping?

[walky_talky20]

If they are both Valeo's, you can pretty easily swap the regulator/brush pack. I believe they are a straight swap so you can convert. But your "bad alternator" may just be worn out brushes. So if you swap that into your "good alternator", well...you will have moved the problem onto the good one!

I'd suggest you inspect, if not replace, the brushes while you are right there. Follow my $5 Alternator Fix DIY:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...es-%28Valeo%29

[AudiTurbo]

Can I not swap the brushes from the good one into the bad one? I read some of that, but it doesn't say where to get the brushes

[walky_talky20]

I used Standard JX94 brushes in the DIY:
http://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor...s=jx94+brushes

It's not really possible to swap the brushes, unless you're like...desperate. Like zombie apocalypse kind of desperate. New ones are easier to install and don't cost much.