:: EuropaParts.com :: B7 2.0T Vacuum Pump Failure / Issues

[Hugh@EuropaParts]

The B7 finally had the vacuum pump go so it was only right that we wrote a short blog article about it.


Audi VW 2.0T FSI Vacuum Pump Failure


VACUUM PUMP (2.0T)



VACUUM HOSE (A4 B7 2.0T)

[Hugh@EuropaParts]

H2Oi Beach pic...

[Audibot]

Thanks for the informative post, Hugh. Are the parts interchangeable between 6MT and Tiptronic vehicles?

[Hugh@EuropaParts]

Thanks for the informative post, Hugh. Are the parts interchangeable between 6MT and Tiptronic vehicles?

Yes, the transmission has nothing to do with the pump. Same exact part for both.

[Audibot]

Excellent to know. I tried the JB Weld fix for that part going into the pump and noticed no change. And my car always have the revs flop around when switching between neutral and gear. Never really attributed it to anything specifically.

[Hugh@EuropaParts]

Excellent to know. I tried the JB Weld fix for that part going into the pump and noticed no change. And my car always have the revs flop around when switching between neutral and gear. Never really attributed it to anything specifically.

I noticed that the elbow fit much better on the new pump as well...

[Audibot]

Nice. I should get this when I'm not broke... oh, wait, I don't know when that's gonna be

[jsandor91]

This hits close to home for Hugh....

[Hugh@EuropaParts]

This hits close to home for Hugh....

Jim... do you see where mine was leaking from?

[fly300kts]

Hugh

DO you know if the fitting design making noise has been upgraded?

Phil

[Hugh@EuropaParts]

Hugh

DO you know if the fitting design making noise has been upgraded?

Phil

The are exactly the same but it felt like it fit a lot more snug. I also used a regular clamp on it which tightened things up.

[typeslone]

Hugh

DO you know if the fitting design making noise has been upgraded?

Phil

I've installed a few updated vacuum pumps on these cars and I have not noticed the noise that yours used to make before you resealed that fitting. My daily drive has the updated pump and doesn't make any noise at all.

[typeslone]

9 out 10 B7's most likely have a leaky pump, it is a very easy part to change. With the correct tools you should be in and out in 30 minutes, the B7 forum needs to stop being intimidated when working on the back of the 2.0T engine. You need a small 1/4" ratcheting bit driver with a T30 torx bit, a small 1\4" ratchet with a 1" extension and a T30 bit, a shop towel and some brakekleen, I prefer wurth brand because its free at my job. I have a snap-on/blue point bit driver but the $9 1/4" bit driver kit from the lowes/home depot that comes with the bits will also work fine.

I have no pictures but this is the process. Remove the brake booster hose that connects to the plastic fitting on the side of the vac pump and put off to the side. Unclip the wiring harness and connectors (N205 valve, HPFP and fuel pressure sensor) in the area and swing them away to give you more room. There are 3 T30 bolts holding on the pump. The top bolt requires the ratchet and extension to remove. The bolt closer to the fuel pump side of the motor and the one on the bottom requires the bit driver. Remove those 3 bolts, keep in mind the bolt on the bottom is different than the others (it was on my motor) and also holds on a wiring ground bracket. Swing that bracket to the side, you should be able to pull the pump back enough to clear the motor and then wiggle it up and out from the firewall area. Take your shop rag and brakekleen and clean up and oil that spilled, as well as clean up behind the motor where the old pump was leaking. Then take the new pump, clock the tabs on it so it will slide into the opening on your intake camshaft. Once the tabs fit into the intake cam, the pump will slide right in. Spin the pump so the 3 bolt holes line up, then tighten everything up, remembering to attach the ground wiring bracket. Reattach the wiring you disconnected, reconnect the booster hose and voila you are finished.

[billyhoyle]

Hugh, I was just looking at the vacuum pump on your site and noticed there are two seals listed. One is 53mm and the other is 56mm. Which one is correct?? One seal says it's for pump with P/N ending in E, and the other one is for pumps with P/N ending in F and G, but the latest revision is H...I'm guessing the F/G seal (56mm) is the correct one for the H pump, but would like to verify.

http://www.europaparts.com/vacuum-pump-06d145100h.html

[Hugh@EuropaParts]

Hugh, I was just looking at the vacuum pump on your site and noticed there are two seals listed. One is 53mm and the other is 56mm. Which one is correct?? One seal says it's for pump with P/N ending in E, and the other one is for pumps with P/N ending in F and G, but the latest revision is H...I'm guessing the F/G seal (56mm) is the correct one for the H pump, but would like to verify.

http://www.europaparts.com/vacuum-pump-06d145100h.html

The pump comes with the seal if I'm not mistaken... those are there as related products.

[billyhoyle]

Ah, well that's easy then. Thanks.

[new_era_inc]

9 out 10 B7's most likely have a leaky pump, it is a very easy part to change. With the correct tools you should be in and out in 30 minutes, the B7 forum needs to stop being intimidated when working on the back of the 2.0T engine. You need a small 1/4" ratcheting bit driver with a T30 torx bit, a small 1\4" ratchet with a 1" extension and a T30 bit, a shop towel and some brakekleen, I prefer wurth brand because its free at my job. I have a snap-on/blue point bit driver but the $9 1/4" bit driver kit from the lowes/home depot that comes with the bits will also work fine.

I have no pictures but this is the process. Remove the brake booster hose that connects to the plastic fitting on the side of the vac pump and put off to the side. Unclip the wiring harness and connectors (N205 valve, HPFP and fuel pressure sensor) in the area and swing them away to give you more room. There are 3 T30 bolts holding on the pump. The top bolt requires the ratchet and extension to remove. The bolt closer to the fuel pump side of the motor and the one on the bottom requires the bit driver. Remove those 3 bolts, keep in mind the bolt on the bottom is different than the others (it was on my motor) and also holds on a wiring ground bracket. Swing that bracket to the side, you should be able to pull the pump back enough to clear the motor and then wiggle it up and out from the firewall area. Take your shop rag and brakekleen and clean up and oil that spilled, as well as clean up behind the motor where the old pump was leaking. Then take the new pump, clock the tabs on it so it will slide into the opening on your intake camshaft. Once the tabs fit into the intake cam, the pump will slide right in. Spin the pump so the 3 bolt holes line up, then tighten everything up, remembering to attach the ground wiring bracket. Reattach the wiring you disconnected, reconnect the booster hose and voila you are finished.

The third bottom screw appears to be an Allan key screw. Number 4 wouldn't work and number 5 was too big. Couldn't get it off. Pissed me off.

Everyone is saying there's 3 T30 screws. Am I missing something ?




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[Hugh@EuropaParts]

The third bottom screw appears to be an Allan key screw. Number 4 wouldn't work and number 5 was too big. Couldn't get it off. Pissed me off.

Everyone is saying there's 3 T30 screws. Am I missing something ?




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Mine was pretty straight forward and I know all of the hardware was exactly the same.

[new_era_inc]

Mine was pretty straight forward and I know all of the hardware was exactly the same.

The 2 top screws were T30 the bottom one attached to a bracket was T27. After that it was pretty straight forward. Hopefully this will stop the leak.


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[wesalexleft]

Getting prepared to do this also. On the original post, it said to be really careful with the plastic nipple of the booster line or it would break, but no tip to keep from breaking it. Is there anything special to look out for, or to not do? The original post made it sound like there was a second nipple that you couldn't see, which would break.

Thanks,

[Hugh@EuropaParts]

Getting prepared to do this also. On the original post, it said to be really careful with the plastic nipple of the booster line or it would break, but no tip to keep from breaking it. Is there anything special to look out for, or to not do? The original post made it sound like there was a second nipple that you couldn't see, which would break.

Thanks,

Yes, there is a nipple on the inside of the hose.

[tywoodruff]

I replaced my vacuum pump probably 3 years ago. (While fishing for a piece of the cam follower. 🙄) Today my brake pedal won’t move when my engine is on or off. I’m trying to find the problem. I removed the line coming from the vacuum pump and there is no suction coming from the pump. Shouldn’t there be suction at all times?