034 front subframe bushings

[GrapeBandit]

So I need to replace my front subframe bushings soon and I'm trying to figure out what route I want to take. OEM replacements, 034 track density, or the 034 billet ones.
http://store.034motorsport.com/mount...5-chassis.html
http://store.034motorsport.com/subfr...7-chassis.html

I had searched to see if the 034 ones increase NVH to an intolerable level, but it seem either most of the threads I read, the ppl either say "I have not mounted them yet, I'm going to do it when I pull my engine. I'll update my feedback at a later time", or some ppl say the NVH isnt too bad depending on what other suspension/drivetrain stiffening mods you have done.

Does anyone here run any of the 034 front subframe bushings(track density or billets)? If so, please leave any and all feedback you have(good or bad, whether to get them or not), and what other mods you have done to your suspension/drivetrain.

[nynoah]

I know they are a pain in the ass to press out and back in. I would just suggest finding a junkyard subframe and swapping.

[GrapeBandit]

I know they are a pain in the ass to press out and back in. I would just suggest finding a junkyard subframe and swapping.

i have a spare front subframe from my last partout(01 1.8tq) was going to blast it, repaint it, put in new bushings and install

[nynoah]

Well that makes it easier. There was a guy local to me in Colorado who tried to do that job. He cursed it up left and right and he was a mechanic.

[GrapeBandit]

Well that makes it easier. There was a guy local to me in Colorado who tried to do that job. He cursed it up left and right and he was a mechanic.

I heard it was a bitch, but I have confidence in myself ill get er done! lol

[034Motorsport]

The billet ones are easier to install than the Density Line ones, but I'd recommend Density Line for a street-driven car. BenSTi runs our billet bushings all around on his B7 RS4, and it's pretty race-car NVH-ey.

Replacing the subframe bushings really freshens up the car, and I'm honestly surprised more people don't do it. It's a fair amount of work, but new mounts and bushings make B5s drive like new.

Hope that helps!

[Seerlah]

Person in this section cracked his subframe trying to press new ones in. That takes some force. haha

[BaseDrifter]

I assume the billet ones are easier to get in since you can really beat on them compared to the density mounts?

[gmx]

I have anodised billets. Do this or they may corrode. Also used body/marine glue to set them. It might introduce some durometer rather than solidity but rather that than rattling and slopping around. I reverted to OEM rs4 engine mounts. I've yet to align my drivetrain properly. Still have 2x apikol blue trans mounts, using v6 subframe. Nvh isn't bad, steering and front end is nice and tight. I dont mind compromising some drivetrains solidity for that.

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[GrapeBandit]

The billet ones are easier to install than the Density Line ones, but I'd recommend Density Line for a street-driven car. BenSTi runs our billet bushings all around on his B7 RS4, and it's pretty race-car NVH-ey.

Replacing the subframe bushings really freshens up the car, and I'm honestly surprised more people don't do it. It's a fair amount of work, but new mounts and bushings make B5s drive like new.

Hope that helps!

All my engine, trans, and diff mounts are stock on tbe car. I will never upgrade any of those to solid, but I may do something a littler stiffer than stock in the future. I think I may give the billets a shot. I dont mind a little NVH if the ride will be nice and firm.

I have anodised billets. Do this or they may corrode. Also used body/marine glue to set them. It might introduce some durometer rather than solidity but rather that than rattling and slopping around. I reverted to OEM rs4 engine mounts. I've yet to align my drivetrain properly. Still have 2x apikol blue trans mounts, using v6 subframe. Nvh isn't bad, steering and front end is nice and tight. I dont mind compromising some drivetrains solidity for that.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

good call on the anodizing. ill look into that if I go billets.

marine glue? like loctite marine epoxy? I doubt the little bit of glue will make a difference between them rattling or slopping around. if they are such a tight fit, I dou t they will rattle in tue first place

[Gumby]

I've been running them for about three years now. I don't think they to add a lot of extra vibrations at all. I can't really tell a difference between my car, and my roommates at idle. We both run all street density engine/trans mounts, and the 034 snub/cage. But I do notice a little more road noise in my car while driving. Not sure if the subframe mounts contribute to that or not though.

[terraflata]

I put them on. Couple of tips. Get a sawzall and some fresh blades. Your want to cut a side of the stock bushing and you will be left with an inner metal peice (where the bolt goes through) with rubber connecting it to the metal outer casing of the bushing. Cut out the rubber holding these peices together, slide and extension through the bolt hole and knock it out with a mini sledge hammer. Ive done front and backs and this seems to be the easiest method for getting stock ones out, when putting the billet ones back in, you may have to take a die grinder to bushing to get it to press in with less resistance. They looks pretty but I cant tell you how they ride yet. Sorry.

[Corrado_Guy]

I have 034 street density engine mounts, transmission mounts, front poly snub and cage, rear poly diff mount bushings with a DTS with the poly transmission mount and 034 billet sub-frame bushings and it is not bad. Audi builds a pretty tight car so there are not a lot of parts vibrating but you can feel everything which can be good or bad. I have a few vibrations but there is no drivetrain movement and shifts are nice and solid. I have a stage 3 street clutch and the total engagement area is right at the top of the pedal travel and is about 3/4 - 1" so it can be a bitch to get it moving on hills. There is no drivetrain slop so the car either starts to move or it stalls out so you have to be careful with it.

The stock bushings and the 034 density bushings are both modelled the same with only the rubber compound being different so they both have crappy plastic sleeves and are easy to install and take out. I just trimmed the lip off of the bushings on one end and few good hits with a hammer drove them out. When I saw the density mounts used the same crappy design I ordered the aluminium ones instead. My car also has a S4 upper brace bolted to the cowl, Hotchkis anti sway bars, 034 street density front control arms, and H&R coil-overs and even with snow tires it is pretty dialed in. The front is a bit bouncy so the coil-overs will be replaced after I go over the rear suspension and sub-frame. I don't live in the rust belt so I installed the aluminium sub-frame bushings without treating them.

I wouldn't say there is an increase in vibration with these cars but more an increase in roughness. Once the car is going you don't notice it is as much but I have not regretted it so far.

[BaseDrifter]

^Glad to hear that as that's pretty much the setup I plan to end up having.

So far I have a poly snub, 034 SD transmission mounts, Apikol street rear diff bushings, JHM upgraded shift linkage + bushing, ebay short shifter, and 034 SD motor mounts are on the way. Front end was rebuilt with Meyle HD control arms and TREs. The car feels nice and tight, most of the added noise is from the JHM delrin bushing. Next up will probably be a Stern power ring, though I also need to fix my driveshaft center support bearing.