Re-torque or replace head bolt -new OEm gasket leaking oil

[peterz123]

I'm not sure if my torque wrench is off or if I just didn't get enough on the
final angle torque. But my new head is weeping a bit of oil from the right front corner
right above the timing belt tentioner where is meets the head- this isn't my engine but it shows where the head is leaking.

Can I let the engine get dead cold, back out just that one bolt and replace with a new one and re-torque
or do I need to do the whole set, or can I put a bit more torque on the one bolt as is?
Any recommendation would be great


- Resurfaced and rebuilt head
- VC gasket not leaking visibly
- Cam seals fine
- new OEM head gasket, positioned correctly
- correct tightening pattern
- New Oem bolts
- No coolant leaks or coolant in oil
- plugs clean and dry
- Compression even across all cylinders, car starts right up, no smoke

[old guy]

First confirm that it isn't coming from the exhaust cam seal and migrating down underneath the TB cover. If it is indeed the head gasket I would try adding an additional 1/8 turn on the existing bolt. If that doesn't make a difference then replace the corner bolt with the proper tightening sequence and hope for the best.

Good luck!

[peterz123]

First confirm that it isn't coming from the exhaust cam seal and migrating down underneath the TB cover. If it is indeed the head gasket I would try adding an additional 1/8 turn on the existing bolt. If that doesn't make a difference then replace the corner bolt with the proper tightening sequence and hope for the best.

Good luck!

Thanks yes I cleaned it up pulled the TB cover and checked the cam seals, which I replaced with the new head, I was careful not to "roll" them when I put them on. I even blocked off the drip path the lower hoses with a piece of card board to ensure the leak was from the head, with the fan mere inches away finding the source of an oil leak can be a pain. I'll let the engine cool over night and put some extra love on the corner bolt and maybe get a bit more bit into the gasket I believe there is an oil drain hole very near that corner

[DiertyEuroSpec]

Did you check the head with a straight edge to make sure the surface was completely flat? You should have used feeler gauges and tried to see if any would fir under the straight edge, after positioning it in different positions/angles such as HERE

One other thing, did you make sure the head was positioned correctly on the dowels?

[Corrado_Guy]

If it were mine I would identify where it is leaking from and if it was the head I would pull it off and then clean everything off carefully and put on a new head gaskets and new bolts. If you are not sure then you pretty much should take it apart and do it again. When it is apart make sure the head/block is not warped and nothing is stuck to either surface. Look for cracks or nicks or any other damage on the head/block then put it together carefully and see how it lasts. The bolts are one-time use unless you use studs (which also stretch and need to be replaced at some point) so you want to make sure there is an even torque across all the bolts.

[Coors]

Did you re-use the head bolts? You need to exercise caution when reusing head bolts. Most manufacturers revert to using TTY (torque to yeild) bolts. It's a bolt that is designed to "stretch" under a predetermined load. The bolts have an elasticity property.

So, reusing a TTY bolt will not yeild the same clamping force as a new one.

[Coors]

I forgot to mention the importance of checking your head and block mating surface for trueness. With every head gasket job I've ever done (foreign or domestic cars) the head/s always get sent to the machine shop to get decked, hot tank cleaned, and pressure tested. Save yourself the trouble of re-installing a warped or cracked head.

[DiertyEuroSpec]

I forgot to mention the importance of checking your head and block mating surface for trueness. With every head gasket job I've ever done (foreign or domestic cars) the head/s always get sent to the machine shop to get decked, hot tank cleaned, and pressure tested. Save yourself the trouble of re-installing a warped or cracked head.

To be honest the first time I did my HG I did NOT check it for flatness or have it decked and the oil weep came from exact area you are pointing to in your pic. I ignored the slight oil weep but on the first hot day of the year the misfire on cold starts came back and I knew I had to do the job again

[peterz123]

Did you re-use the head bolts? You need to exercise caution when reusing head bolts. Most manufacturers revert to using TTY (torque to yeild) bolts. It's a bolt that is designed to "stretch" under a predetermined load. The bolts have an elasticity property.

So, reusing a TTY bolt will not yeild the same clamping force as a new one.

thanks for the input but no these were new oem bolts, but yes once they are stretched you can't get much more out of them- the bolt holes were blown dry and the bolts were lubricated with a thin wipe of engine oil the head was rebuilt and resurfaced and I used an OEM gasket- and I did a quick flatness check on the block, there hadn't been many overheating so I don't think the head or block surface is the issue, there is no coolant loss, overheating or fouling and the engine starts and runs as smoothly as an audi 4 banger can. I did add another 1/8th of a turn as Old guy recommended to the existing bolt but the leak is still there though I think less, but could be just my wishful thinking- I think I need to just start over and pull the bolts in sequence and put in a new set and borrow a top of the line toque wrench and re-do them bolts aren't that much I'm just a little reluctant to release the bolts and head without putting in a new gasket but this will take a lot less time

[peterz123]

Thanks the weather is still cold here and it's starting and running perfectly, and the head was decked and rebuilt, and the block was cleaned and "sort of" half ass checked, but the car only gets driven a few miles a day back and forth to school by my son so I think for now I'm going to: 1. Put in a new set of head bolts & borrow my friends snap on torque wrench and retorque 2. wait and see what happens, if it still leaks I'l keep an eye on it to make sure there is no oil contamination getting to the timing belt and if it starts to have running issues or coolant loss I'll dive back in with a new gasket head resurface and block surface. Did your car run well when it leaked?

[peterz123]

thanks for the input- it's my son's high school daily driver so I'm a little reluctant at this point to dive back in until I have the spare time and it becomes and issue (though this kind of thing drives me crazy) but you're right, tearing back down is the best way to do it to ensure things are right I was just hopping that a re torque of a head job done christmas eve might do the trick :) I took it on faith the resurface by the machine shop was good and didn't check it they're a racing shop and come highly recommended and took the time to replace all the seals and put in a new tentioner.