B7 A4 2.0T clutch replacement DIY

[new_era_inc]

Hi All,

I've been trying to find a clutch replacement diy for b7 A4 and haven't been able to find any. I've only found b6 and b8. Any thoughts ??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jake@JHM]

Hi All,

I've been trying to find a clutch replacement diy for b7 A4 and haven't been able to find any. I've only found b6 and b8. Any thoughts ??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The B6 02x trans is the same transmission, so a very similar process.

We have a GREAT Clutch options for the B7 A4 with your choice between Chrome-Moly Forged or Aluminum Flywheels!




Click HERE to order!

[new_era_inc]

Oh ok. Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Charles.waite]

http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page...tml&category=1

Thats for a 1.8t but its 99% the same process. If you have the ability, I would frankly remove the engine rather than dropping the trans out from under the car.

You will need a Bentley for sure.

[new_era_inc]

Thanks. I have a Bentley on DVD which I regret. Should have bought the hard copy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Charles.waite]

Thanks. I have a Bentley on DVD which I regret. Should have bought the hard copy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have the hard copy but I've actually heard the DVD is much more thorough.

In any event so long as you don't mind getting a bit of grease on your laptop, or you can print out some specs and whatnot, you're set.

[new_era_inc]

I have an old laptop that I use just for VCDS and my vehicles. I just figured the hard copy would be easier to move around.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ericpaulyoung]

The DVD is much better. Much more info.

[new_era_inc]

The DVD is much better. Much more info.

Awesome. Thanks. I will print it out


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[derrek]

http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page...tml&category=1

Thats for a 1.8t but its 99% the same process. If you have the ability, I would frankly remove the engine rather than dropping the trans out from under the car.

You will need a Bentley for sure.

why do you say this?

[konarider94]

yea I would certainly not want to remove the engine to do the clutch. So much goes with that, fluids, front end, lots of connections. I had the clutch and whole transmission swapped out on mine in an afternoon.

[mec]

Step 1.....unbolt all the things.
Step 2. apply clutch lube to the clutch
step 3. attach clutch using spline rivets
step 4. ?????
step 5/. bolt some shit on
Step 6. wake up from beer coma
Step 7. Profit

[Charles.waite]

why do you say this?

For torque specs mainly.

I replaced my clutch following the method in that a4mods DIY and frankly it's a massive bitch. Next time I think I'd rather pull the engine and tranny out the top and do the work on a bench. If you have access to a lift, then dropping the tranny is way easier, but lying under there and contorting and whatnot really sucks with your car on jack stands blows nuts. My back was totally fucked after doing mine.

Still better than paying a shop $1000 labor to do it though.

[derrek]

For torque specs mainly.

Should have been more specific. Why pull the motor over pulling the trans?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Charles.waite]

Should have been more specific. Why pull the motor over pulling the trans?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh. See my edit above. Also dealing with the tranny bolts sucks when you're constrained by the transmission tunnel and firewall.

[konarider94]

My transmission experience was using a hoist and transmission jack. Not a good job without one.

[onedumslack]

Can anyone tell me where exactly I should be hooking up an engine support to? I've got a bentley paper manual and have been following the a4mods 1.8t clutch replacement diy and I've gotten as far as where I now need to use the engine support and have the transmission jack on but I've never done a clutch job or used and engine support. The one I've purchased is from harbor freight here:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html
The bentley shows a small picture with the vag proprietary engine support hooked up directly on top but I don't see on the engine where it goes and where alternatively I should be using this generic support from harbor freight. Any help would be appreciated.

[papadelogan]

My transmission experience was using a hoist and transmission jack. Not a good job without one.

So your car was up in the air, over your head, yes? If I had that access, heck yeah I'd do a clutch that way. I've not had to do it in my Audi yet, but with my Subarus, I pulled the engine every time.

Can anyone tell me where exactly I should be hooking up an engine support to?

When/if you pull the trans, the back part of the engine loses support, so you need to put something in place to keep it from tilting. Some options I can think of:

1. 2x4 cut to length and stuck under the back of the block
2. find a large-ish empty bolt hole, get appropriate sized bolt + length of chain - put bolt through chain in to empty bolt hole, run chain up/over rafters & secure
3. bottle jack under rear of engine with 2x4/chunk of wood/old book to act as a pad...

[B72011]

Should have been more specific. Why pull the motor over pulling the trans?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would think pulling the motor would allow you to do some serious clean up and maintenance work on it. Doing the rear coolant flange, checking for bad hoses, cleaning the engine from grease and oil, replacing cracked plastic garbage and whatnot. Seems like it is more work in some ways but in many ways its a win???

[bseven]

Can anyone tell me where exactly I should be hooking up an engine support to? I've got a bentley paper manual and have been following the a4mods 1.8t clutch replacement diy and I've gotten as far as where I now need to use the engine support and have the transmission jack on but I've never done a clutch job or used and engine support. The one I've purchased is from harbor freight here:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html
The bentley shows a small picture with the vag proprietary engine support hooked up directly on top but I don't see on the engine where it goes and where alternatively I should be using this generic support from harbor freight. Any help would be appreciated.

You might be in over your head if you are having trouble with that part. But to answer your question, there is a black steel bracket just behind/next the pcv ports on the back driver's side of the engine.

[onedumslack]

You might be in over your head if you are having trouble with that part. But to answer your question, there is a black steel bracket just behind/next the pcv ports on the back driver's side of the engine.

oh I'm sure I'm most definitely in over my head. But I have to learn somewhere and preferably by not damaging the engine cause I didn't ask. I'll take another look when I get home. Thank you.

[B72011]

oh I'm sure I'm most definitely in over my head. But I have to learn somewhere and preferably by not damaging the engine cause I didn't ask. I'll take another look when I get home. Thank you.

ha! In over your head! Been there. Only way to get better is to do it, jump off the cliff.
Good luck with the job. I have a TIP, but need to change my clutch on my Tacoma in the next few months. Should be great fun!

[rongeur]

haha, if you never push yourself out of your comfort zone, you will never advance in skill or understanding.

I have never pulled an engine, installed big turbo, made and plumbed ss oil lines, replaced clutch, etc etc but will be jumping off that cliff this summer :)

Just follow the manual and be methodical and double check everything before installing motor back, last thing you want is to say oh shit, for got that bold or bearing and have to undo everything.

[onedumslack]

:-) yup. I keep modding this car and it's my first car I've really done anything to myself besides oil changes, spark plugs, filters, and throttle body cleaning. So I figured if I'm going to keep modding like this I need to learn as much as I can. So far I've only paid someone for an alignment and to mount my tires on new wheels. Everything else in my sig I learned from reading this forum. Awesome forums here. I did my timing belt 1st month I owned the car from Bentley and Phil's diy and then right after did trans fluid and rear diff. Just finished auto dim rear view mirror and bixenon retrofits. If I get stuck I'll put it back together and take it to a shop. I actually got a good quote of $400 for the install of this jhm clutch but I figured I'd try first.

[blackbowtie]

I'd pay $400 in a heartbeat... but that's just me.

[onedumslack]

You might be in over your head if you are having trouble with that part. But to answer your question, there is a black steel bracket just behind/next the pcv ports on the back driver's side of the engine.

So from your description it looks like it's this bracket in the center of the pic with the quarter size hole in the middle? Is that the only point I should support from or are there multiple?


And for reference here's what the bentley had to say about it.


It does look like there is a second bracket just like the one in the back by the hpfp that is in the front of the engine bay just above the alternator at the bottom of this pic that more closely lines up with the bentley picture. Is this the advised one to use instead I think?

[Charles.waite]

If you're using the a4mods DIY and are dropping the tranny, You don't need to support the engine. Just leave the snub and engine mounts bolted and you're fine.

[bseven]

I'd pay $400 in a heartbeat... but that's just me.

For 4hundo, I'd pay too. Sometimes it's worth the money to keep the time free. 600 or more though, and I'm getting dirty and pissy. Haha

[onedumslack]

If you're using the a4mods DIY and are dropping the tranny, You don't need to support the engine. Just leave the snub and engine mounts bolted and you're fine.

Why does the bentley say to raise the engine slightly? Is it just to access some of the bolts easier maybe?

[Charles.waite]

Could be. Actually I think it's so you can get the lower tranny bolts.

I just loosened my motor mounts and carefully jacked the motor up with a jack under the oil pan. I used a block of wood to distribute the load and not punch a hole in the oil pan.

[onedumslack]

Could be. Actually I think it's so you can get the lower tranny bolts.

I just loosened my motor mounts and carefully jacked the motor up with a jack under the oil pan. I used a block of wood to distribute the load and not punch a hole in the oil pan.

I see, cool thanks. I got the transmission dropped last night. I ended up using the engine support but I don't think it really raised it any, it just seemed to keep it in place. I was able to get at the bottom bolts with a box wrench.

[scott88]

Not meaning to necropost here, but this is the top post that comes up on Google for this car doing a clutch job. Just finished doing the clutch on mine and have a few tips for anyone that comes upon this thread in the future:

1. The engine hoist is needed because you'll need to tilt the engine back slightly to remove the transmission. If you don't have the hoist in place the front of the engine could drop as your removing the transmission and cause damage to the transmission spline, absolutely support the front of the engine with something before you pull the transmission.
2. Make sure you have a triple square metric bit set, this isn't a common tool (usually have to order it online) and is absolutely required to remove many of the bolts safely.
3. This isn't mentioned in ANY documentation I found, but the clutch slave cylinder didn't go back in after we put in the new clutch. I had to SLIGHTLY loosen a 9mm nut on the side of the cylinder to bleed the system and reduce the pressure to get the slave cylinder back in.
4. If you don't have a lift it may be easier to do this job by removing the engine, I rented a lift from a nearby shop and did the job in a few days by just removing the transmission. It took my buddy and I 20 hours to complete this job (we were going slow and making sure we didn't break anything), it would likely take around 10 if we did it again.
5. The top center bolt is mentioned several times as a pain in the ass. With two people (one snaking the extension to the bolt, another cranking the rachet) and some extensions it took about 4 minutes to get out, not a pain at all.
6. I've done an engine swap before on another car but I'm certainly not an experienced mechanic, as far as difficulty goes for the average DIYer I'd put this around 8/10. You only need a few special tools and the whole process isn't very difficult, mostly time consuming.

[Sumthnclevr]

Very thankful for this updated comment right about now!