2005 Allroad 2.7T engine clicking?

[Juggar]

Hey guys, I recently bought a fully loaded 2005 Allroad for $6400 with 168K miles.

Since ive had it I have put 2k miles on it and I have also noticed a slight clicking sound from the right front of the car when it is idling.

My friend even commented that the engine sounded like "garbage", I responded in kind telling him it would destroy his 95 cougar zr7 any day of the week. (his 0-60 is over 10 seconds)

This morning it was quite cold (25 F) and it seemed to exacerbate the clicking. It seemed worse.

The car drives fine and I guess pulls fine. To get some sort of baseline I measured 0-60 with an OBD-II scanguage @ 8.2 seconds 0-60.

I cant help but feel the car could be a bit faster.... but with these miles an APR tune is out of the question,especially since its my DD and has stock original turbos.

When I bought it from the used car dealer guy he said they changed the fluids; they mostly deal in trucks. Did he put the wrong oil in? Or, too heavy of a weight?

I have heard these cars are quite picky when it comes to oil, also no oil leaks from the engine that I can tell. Timing belt was done at 136K miles.

Its the automatic and the trans has never had any issues so im praying it will last to 200K.

Thanks!

[mpsmith]

Do you properly warm your car up?

[Juggar]

Do you properly warm your car up?

Well, I have only had it for a month, but since its been cold I have been letting it warm up for 5 mins so I can get the heat going.

Before it got cold the car was garaged and I would turn it on and just drive, but didnt go above 3K RPMS till it got warmed up.

I also wait at least 30 seconds to turn off the car after I get to my destination to let to the turbos spool down and get cooled off.

[IsaidWOT]

They're extremely picky on oil. European formula 10w40 is what you need. Could try that and see how it goes. I use Mobil 1 in mine.

[vwztips]

Sounds like a cam chain tensioner going south. You can try changing the oil as stated above.

[Juggar]

Thanks guys, ill try the oil.

[19dabeast85]

A really heavy oil when it's cold could cause that but it'd go away after the oil temp gets up above 200. I've never heard that these 2.7t's are oil-picky. You should run a good quality oil but as far as "European" formulas......that has nothing to do with engine protection and everything to do with emissions. If you get a European formula make sure it's low-saps so you have adequate friction protection.

I personally run Rotella T6 5w40 fully synthetic oil. It's mainly used in diesel trucks but is an excellent oil and you can get it at Walmart for $22/gallon. I had an excellent oil analysis last time using this oil.

As far as chipping a high mileage 2.7t. Mine has been chipped with GIAC which is very aggressive since about 140k miles. I have 198k now and it runs like a champ holding 18 and spiking 20psi with zero oil usage, negligible fuel contamination in oil, and no coolant burning. Turbos sound great and are healthy. I do have gutted piggies which helps tremendously by not having that massive heat factory 4" from the turbos. Other than that just AWE intercoolers to keep IAT's in check.

So my point is, the health of a 2.7t and its respective turbos has much LESS to do with mileage and alot MORE to do with maintenance and care. Since you just bought it you have no way of knowing its history but sending in an oil sample is the best way to determine your motor's health without opening it up. They can tell you about bearings, piston rings, cylinder walls, coolant consumption, fuel consumption all by analyzing the oil.

The key to keeping ANY motor healthy?

1. Never rev it high when cold.
2. Don't take tons of short trips if possible.
3. Use a REALLY good oil and filter. (Personally Rotella T6 5w40 with Purolator PureOne for my 2.7t)
4. After it's warm beat on it at least once or twice minimum a day. Meaning hard acceleration up to redline. This keeps carbon deposits down and burned away.
5. PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE. Timing belts, water pumps, thermostats, coolant temp sensors, spark plugs, air filter, coolant flush, brake fluid flush, etc.... don't wait until it breaks.

Do the above and you'll never break down due to engine failure with pretty much any vehicle made by any manufacturer!

So my advice? Send in an oil analysis, I use Blackstone labs, you'll need to order a free sampling kit. After determining your motor is internally healthy do all of your preventative maintenance: Gut the piggies (yes this is preventative for turbo failure and opens up some HP), replace your spark plugs with coppers change these every 10k miles), do a full TB service including WP, thermostat, VC gaskets, coolant temp sensor, after run pump switch, etc., change your fan clutch out for an s4 unit while you're there so you don't kill your radiator soon.

After all that get your choice of a stg1 chip and drive the fool out of it (after it's warm!) :)

[Juggar]

A really heavy oil when it's cold could cause that but it'd go away after the oil temp gets up above 200. I've never heard that these 2.7t's are oil-picky. You should run a good quality oil but as far as "European" formulas......that has nothing to do with engine protection and everything to do with emissions. If you get a European formula make sure it's low-saps so you have adequate friction protection.

I personally run Rotella T6 5w40 fully synthetic oil. It's mainly used in diesel trucks but is an excellent oil and you can get it at Walmart for $22/gallon. I had an excellent oil analysis last time using this oil.

As far as chipping a high mileage 2.7t. Mine has been chipped with GIAC which is very aggressive since about 140k miles. I have 198k now and it runs like a champ holding 18 and spiking 20psi with zero oil usage, negligible fuel contamination in oil, and no coolant burning. Turbos sound great and are healthy. I do have gutted piggies which helps tremendously by not having that massive heat factory 4" from the turbos. Other than that just AWE intercoolers to keep IAT's in check.

So my point is, the health of a 2.7t and its respective turbos has much LESS to do with mileage and alot MORE to do with maintenance and care. Since you just bought it you have no way of knowing its history but sending in an oil sample is the best way to determine your motor's health without opening it up. They can tell you about bearings, piston rings, cylinder walls, coolant consumption, fuel consumption all by analyzing the oil.

The key to keeping ANY motor healthy?

1. Never rev it high when cold.
2. Don't take tons of short trips if possible.
3. Use a REALLY good oil and filter. (Personally Rotella T6 5w40 with Purolator PureOne for my 2.7t)
4. After it's warm beat on it at least once or twice minimum a day. Meaning hard acceleration up to redline. This keeps carbon deposits down and burned away.
5. PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE. Timing belts, water pumps, thermostats, coolant temp sensors, spark plugs, air filter, coolant flush, brake fluid flush, etc.... don't wait until it breaks.

Do the above and you'll never break down due to engine failure with pretty much any vehicle made by any manufacturer!

So my advice? Send in an oil analysis, I use Blackstone labs, you'll need to order a free sampling kit. After determining your motor is internally healthy do all of your preventative maintenance: Gut the piggies (yes this is preventative for turbo failure and opens up some HP), replace your spark plugs with coppers change these every 10k miles), do a full TB service including WP, thermostat, VC gaskets, coolant temp sensor, after run pump switch, etc., change your fan clutch out for an s4 unit while you're there so you don't kill your radiator soon.

After all that get your choice of a stg1 chip and drive the fool out of it (after it's warm!) :)

Thanks for the advice!

I got the car about a month ago and since then I have put between 1500-1700 miles on it(mostly from moving to a new place). So far, no major problems.

I replaced the front left CV axle since the previous owner ignored it and the bearings were rusted bad from a torn CV boot and it shook something fierce under acceleration.

After that I replaced the fuel filter and it really helped with the starting of my car, it was having a very hard time previously.

I also replaced the dirty stock engine air filter with a K&N filter and also did the cabin air filter.

I am going to a local shop that deals in Volkswagen cars and they are going to put manufacturer spec oil in and use an OEM/premium oil filter.

Thanks for the tip on Blackstone labs, I just requested a kit and will ask the shop tomorrow for 3 oz of my oil back.

The carfax was surprisingly full of maintenance info including a recent timing belt change(137K), but I have no way of knowing if the other stuff around it was changed...

From what I can see, it was babied for the first 9 years of its life(first owner, always had Audi do recommended scheduled maint) and neglected the last year(second owner, 1 year) but I intend to make the car last over 200k miles (me, 3rd owner)

Im sure the spark plugs need to be changed, what exact brand and model do you recommend? I will buy them.

Thanks for the post, your info is invaluable!

[19dabeast85]

The oil has to be collected into a sterile container....regardless if you don't know what oil is in there currently nor the mileage on the oil Blackstone can't do a proper analysis. You tell them specifically what oil you are sending them and the miles on the oil, etc and they compare your sample to their database of new oil specs.

I and many others on here have had great success with NGK coppers. I think it's bkr6e. If you're running a tune you want one heat range colder with the bkr7e plug. Most forced induction motors run best/safest with copper plugs. They also happen to be the cheapest of the options with the only downside being you have to change them more often.