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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Three Rings Fburg A4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 06 2012
    AZ Member #
    101757
    Location
    Fredericksburg, VA

    DIY: Ignition switch replacement

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    Just replaced my ignition switch (part #8K0909131C). Had some issues with it not releasing sometimes and it was becoming more frequent. After removing and inspecting it, it appears the little claw on the bottom was binding. Either way, I took some pictures along the way that may help anyone who feels like they want to tackle the job. I ordered the part from Rock Auto (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2339428) to replace the current switch at around $63 plus shipping.

    I will start from the point where I already removed the knee bolster (2 bolts underneath and one behind the driver's side fuse panel cover) and I removed the MMI trim (simply pull it out). Below is a pic of what I was starting with:


    I removed the top half of the steering wheel cover (I call it a clamshell) along with the trim underneath the instrument cluster as one piece. I'm posting a picture below of where the trim connectors are so you know where a good place to pry it away is. I first pried away the trim from under the instrument cluster then popped the top part of the clamshell off.


    Next I removed the switch cover bolt and removed the cover, pretty easy task.


    At this point, I tried to remove the switch but I couldn't get to it without removing a little impact frame member (not sure what to call it) but it had to go. To remove the switch, you need to push the swich through and pull it out below; that impact member was blocking that option. Below is a pic of the piece I'm talking about:


    There are two bolts holding it in, one underneath (I used a 10mm flex head because the AC duct was nearby) and one that requires a 12 point socket (size 8 I believe) on an 8" extension. The 12 point bolt is pretty long, 6" or so, so it doesn't go falling through the steering column area like I thought it would:





    Once those two bolts were removed, I could swing down that impact frame to allow me to pull out the switch. There was only one bolt holding in the switch with its picture below. I had to push the switch through and pull it out of where that frame member was.


    Once I pulled it out, there was a safety type connector. The red clip has to be pulled out before depressing a tab on the connector and pulling it out of the switch. The picture shows the red safety tab already pulled out of the connector:


    After that, I replaced the switch with the new part and buttoned it all back up. Switch feels a lot better than the sloppy switch after 5 years of use. And I haven't had the key get stuck since then either, very happy.

    In summary, very doable DIY project if you are having a similar issue or need to replace the switch for another reason.
    Last edited by Fburg A4; 10-22-2014 at 04:51 PM. Reason: Added part number of switch

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    May 07 2014
    AZ Member #
    211993
    Location
    Toronto

    Great writeup! Sorry, total n3wb question, but where are the fuse boxes located exactly?

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings Fburg A4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 06 2012
    AZ Member #
    101757
    Location
    Fredericksburg, VA

    It's on the driver's side of the dash. You have to open up the door to see it. There is a cover on the side of the dash that you pry off. There are other fuse locations as well (passenger side of dash, in trunk, and under hood near the ecu). There may be others, but those are the 4 locations I can think of right now.

    I have a video of getting at it when I added a new fused line actually, below is the link. 50 seconds into the video is the panel I'm talking about.

    http://youtu.be/u5feW-7OwdQ
    Last edited by Fburg A4; 10-22-2014 at 07:08 PM. Reason: Added link to video

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings jfo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 17 2010
    AZ Member #
    67149
    Location
    Courtenay, BC, Canada

    Thanks for the writeup! One more for the archives.
    2011 A4 Avant

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    May 07 2014
    AZ Member #
    211993
    Location
    Toronto

    Thanks very much!!!

  6. #6
    Registered Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Jun 29 2016
    AZ Member #
    375355
    Location
    Summerland, BC Canada

    This is a great walk-thru and I've been searching for info on this for a few days now. Thank you!

    I'm brand-new here so I apologize for posting on an old thread if that's frowned upon. Fburg - I have a question:

    I drive a 2009 Audi A4 B8 2.0 T and the dash looks like yours. My question is, if I order this part from eBay or the like: http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUDI-8K09091...BXFeFd&vxp=mtr (I think I need: 8K0909131D VS the 'C' part you list), is it a straight-ahead plug-and-play?

    I contacted an Audi dealer and they talked about the car / key needing to be reprogrammed.. is this accurate? I'd hate to swap out the ignition to render the car inoperable.

    Thanks in advance!
    Mike

    PS - I should add that my main issues (in order) are: Key wouldn't release > Then released out of the blue > Now key won't engage, but starts car > Error message 'Ignition Switch Failure'

    <<< UPDATE >>> I ordered the part from RockAuto, installed in about 1 hour, all is working flawlessly. For anyone interested, you don't need any 'key pairing' as indicated by our local Audi dealer / mechanic. Thanks again for this great write-up!
    Last edited by mbhwhitney; 07-15-2016 at 11:45 AM.

  7. #7
    Registered Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Aug 27 2016
    AZ Member #
    379433
    Location
    Seattle/Tacoma

    Thanks for the recently updated info mbhwhitney.

    I recently bought an 09 A4 Avant Quattro and am getting the "Ignition Lock Defective" message. My fob sticks on occasion when shutting the car off.

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