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  1. #1
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    allroad tip to 6 speed 01e swap documentation

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    My intention of this thread is to document my tip to 01e swap. Hopefully it can be a place where someone can reference in the future if they wish to do the same.
    I have a 2001 allroad with tip that just bit the dust. Instead of putting money in the tip I am going to do an swap.

    The allroad is my daily driver, however, I do have the good fortune of having a backup that I can drive while the allroad is down. With that being said I chose to purchase a swap from Scott at advanced automotion. He said that it will probably not be ready till the end of october so I started on the things that I could do now.

    First off I had an extra ecm that I was planning on tuning but never got around to it. So figured that I would start with a mbox tune 8D0 907 551 M
    I chose this because of the large amount of info that is available along with tunerpro .bin file so that I can easily change the programming.

    I am going to loose my immobilizer, but not a big deal for me.

    So first I put in a boot mode switch on my case so I can easily switch it when/if needed.



    I used the information from S4wiki : and wired in the switch


    With the ecm in boot mode I was able to overwrite the file that was on the backup ecm, I would not have been able to do this with the Nefmoto software because of the immobilizer.

    So I successfully put the file on the ecm.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Next I needed to make the VCMS stuff work nice with the bin and car. This took me a while to figure out, particularly the ECU soft coding so I did not get errors.

    I have a RossTech VAG-COM software and cable. I connected with the car and went to:

    17- Instruments
    Adaption -10
    In the pulldown at the top choose (will fill this in later) which is Channel 60, set to 3073 (which removes the Transmission from the CAN Bus but still leaves allroad adaptive suspension active)

    Then:
    03-ABS Brakes
    Login -11
    Now because the bin I was using was already a manual bin I logged in with 07495 (this indicates Audi A6 (4B), PR-1LX brakes, 6/8/12 Cyl. Gasoline, Manual trans) as below:


    0?xxx: Chassis
    5 = Audi A8 (4D)
    7 = Audi A6 (4B)
    9 = Audi A4 (8D) / VW Passat (3B)
    0x?xx: Brakes
    3 = FNRG-60 (Teves/ATE) [PR-1LA/1LG]
    4 = FN2/HP2 (Dual-Piston) [PR-1LX] & Brembo [PR-1ZL]
    5 = FN3 (Teves/ATE) [PR-1LB/1LE/1LF/1LT/1ZC]
    6 = C54 (Lucas) [PR-1LZ]
    0xx?x: Engine
    5 = 4/6/8 Cyl. Diesel
    7 = 4/5 Cyl. Gasoline
    9 = 6/8/12 Cyl. Gasoline
    0xxx?: Transmission
    3 = Manual with Low Range (only Audi A6 Allroad)
    5 = Manual
    7 = Automatic (01L/01N/01V)
    9 = Multitronic (01J)

    Once logged in :
    Coding -07
    set to 06395 (this sets Audi A6(4B), PR-1lx, 6/8/12 Cyl. Gasoline, manual)


    0?xxx: Chassis
    4 = Audi A4 (8D) / VW Passat (3B)
    6 = Audi A6 (4B)
    8 = Audi A8 (4D)
    0x?xx: Brakes
    1 = C54 (Lucas) [PR-1LZ]
    2 = FN3 (Teves/ATE) [PR-1LB/1LE/1LF/1LT/1ZC]
    3 = FN2/HP2 (Dual-Piston) [PR-1LX] & Brembo [PR-1ZL]
    4 = FNRG-60 (Teves/ATE) [PR-1LA/1LG]
    0xx?x: Engine
    5 = 4/6/8 Cyl. Diesel
    7 = 4/5 Cyl. Gasoline
    9 = 6/8/12 Cyl. Gasoline
    0xxx?: Transmission
    3 = Manual with Low Range (only Audi A6 Allroad)
    5 = Manual
    7 = Automatic (01L/01N/01V)
    9 = Multitronic (01J)

    Here is where I was going in circles using the wrong coding.......

    01-Engine
    Login -11 using 11463
    Coding -07 use code 06711 (TLEV (USA), All-Wheel-Drive with ASR/ESP (with CAN-Bus), 6-Speed Manual Transmission, Audi A4) I was using the ROSSTECH chart as below and could not get the coding to change It needs to reflect that the engine is an S4 NOT an A6 as I was originally doing

    ??xxx: Emissions
    05 = Euro II/D3
    06 = TLEV (USA)
    07 = LEV (USA)
    08 = GUS/China
    10 = Euro III
    11 = Euro IV/Japan
    25 = South Africa
    26 = Mexico/Taiwan
    27 = Brasil
    xx?xx: Powertrain
    5 = Front-Wheel-Drive
    6 = All-Wheel-Drive without ASR/ESP (with CAN-Bus)
    7 = All-Wheel-Drive with ASR/ESP (with CAN-Bus)
    8 = All-Wheel-Drive with Post-Switch Stage (Low Range - A6 Allroad only)
    xxx?x: Transmission
    1 = 6-Speed Manual Transmission
    5 = 5-Speed Automatic Transmission (01V)
    xxxx?: Vehicle
    2 = Audi A6
    5 = Audi A6 Allroad

    I cleared all the error codes in engine, abs, ecu, and (I had codes in leveling that I had to clear).

    Lastly set ECU Throttle Body Adaption after the total install is done (have not done this yet)

    Turn the key on but do not start the car.
    [Select]
    [01 - Engine]
    [Basic Settings - 04]
    Group 060
    [Go!]
    It should say "Basic Settings: OFF" on the top of your screen.
    Click [ON/OFF/Next] to turn on Basic Settings.
    It should now say "Basic Settings: ON" on the top of your screen. Once you do this you will see the top right display say ADP RUN. The TB adaptation is being done as soon as you switched basic settings on. You will see the values change and hear the TB cycle for the first few seconds then it will stop. Leave it in Basic Settings for about 30 seconds.
    Click [ON/OFF/Next] to turn off Basic Settings.
    It should now say "Basic Settings: OFF" on the top of your screen
    Click the [Done, Go Back] button and you're all set.
    Be sure not to touch the accelerator and make sure the engine is NOT running when you do this!

    I also removed the tmu from under passenger floor in the black box.



    Now all the coding should be done, whew......
    Last edited by toms73novass; 10-14-2014 at 03:20 AM.

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Wow. Its more to a swap then just bolting in gearbox. I had no idea

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings rollerton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebird400 View Post
    Wow. Its more to a swap then just bolting in gearbox. I had no idea
    No^^ ..don't get discouraged. You have an S6- so there's a Euro / Manual trans .bin file you can write to the ECU over OBD port. You DO have to run a wire to the ECU, bu that's not hard. The majority of the swap is really very straight-forward. Slightly different on the Allroad than a 4.2 - if I had to guess probably a little harder.
    foley803 : What does an electrical surge sound like? Barking dogs? Watermelons?

  5. #5
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebird400 View Post
    Wow. Its more to a swap then just bolting in gearbox. I had no idea
    Part of the reason that I am doing this thread is trying to make it specific to the allroad 2.7 and consolidate information that I have hunted around acquiring. Making it easier for someone else who might do the swap. Sort of a thanks to all those that have published info that I have used and a pay it forward...

  6. #6
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Well here is the latest update from the weekend.

    To remove the auto shifter you have to pry down on the metal piece under the wood hand grip and then pull out the button on the sift knob and give it a good tug and not hit yourself in the face.....



    Then you need a curved pick like device to lift the 4 tabs that hold the shifting assembly indicator in place, they are not the tabs in the picture they are below them, really cant see them.



    To remove the shift cable you have to remove the retaining clip and slide the cable to the passenger side to remove.



    Next remove the 10mm bolts around the parameter of the shifter base so that it can be removed from below. You have to remove the exhaust and driveshaft to be able to get to it from underneath.


  7. #7
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Next to remove the shifter cable from the transmission, just pry the end towards the passenger side and unbolt the support bracket.



    Next I remove the core support so that I could remove the transmission oil lines, one runs along the front of the engine to the driver side intercooler and bolts into a cooler before it goes into the radiator.





    Remove the cooler from the intercooler.




    Next I removed the lower control arms from the sub frame to make access easier, I also supported the rear of the engine from above.





    Unbolted the trans mounts



    Next unbolted the subframe and had to loosen the two outer bolt (but not remove!!) the bolts that hold in the motor mounts to get enough clearance to pull out the sub frame.





    Now you have full access to get to the trans bolts.

    I remove the lower ones that face the front of the car along with the lower starter bolt.



    This is the hole where you have to rotate the torque converter and remove the 3 torque converter bolts that use a 55 torx bolt.



    All out!!




  8. #8
    Forum Moderator Four Rings Gumby's Avatar
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    This is great. There isn't really a lot of detailed information on the swap consolidated in one place. Keep up the great work, and keep the info coming.
    -Matt-
    B5 S4, B5 A4 Moderator

    2871r'd 2001 A4 1.8t Build thread


    You may think I'm not online. But I'm always here. Even if I'm not posting. I'm always here. Scrolling. Judging.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    I am doing this as we speak, i can not get he ABS to accept the 06711 soft coding, any ideas?? I will chime in as i go as well. Let's get the party started...

  10. #10
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by chinaren View Post
    I am doing this as we speak, i can not get he ABS to accept the 06711 soft coding, any ideas?? I will chime in as i go as well. Let's get the party started...
    That is the ECU softcoding not the ABS.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by toms73novass View Post
    That is the ECU softcoding not the ABS.
    you are right, it is ECU, i can not get the ECU to take 06711, any thoughts

  12. #12
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    The tune that is in the ecu right now, what is it? is it manual tune or automatic? What vehicle is it for, A4 or A6?

    Mine is a Mbox tune so the last digit is 1 if it is a manual tune for a A6 or allroad it would be a 2 or 5 respectively for the last digit.....

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings LakeTahoeQuattr's Avatar
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    Is there any more? Did you get your 01E yet to install?

    21 TTRS - track whip 1
    20 Supra GR - track whip 2
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  14. #14
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    I have been waiting for the driveshaft for quite a while. It was delivered but wont have a chance to install it till the weekend. I plan on doing an update of the little bit of wiring, trans install ect when I am sure things are working well. Up in the air the front wheels spin and the output flange spins, so, so far so good.

  15. #15
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Great work!
    Lots of nice info for the one day that I decide to do the swap. Gave up on selling it.

    Sub'd
    Man I miss my AR....

    I will buy another someday... Or any audi with a 2.7...

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings 03a4b6ztk's Avatar
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    Sub'd for this. I just picked up a 2.7t allroad yesterday and this is one of the first threads I have come across in this area! Glad to see someone doing it detailed.

    Do you have any other threads on the topic? as far as parts and costs? Or will that all be added here?
    Knuckles

    4X4 with the Straight Pipe Roar!!!!!!!!

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings Racin2redline's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by toms73novass View Post
    I have been waiting for the driveshaft for quite a while. It was delivered but wont have a chance to install it till the weekend. I plan on doing an update of the little bit of wiring, trans install ect when I am sure things are working well. Up in the air the front wheels spin and the output flange spins, so, so far so good.
    Fyi to anyone regarding driveshafts on allroads, a regular a6 6 speed driveshaft works fine if you space it down an inch. Mines had no issues in the 10k miles since the 6 speed swap

  18. #18
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Racin2redline View Post
    Fyi to anyone regarding driveshafts on allroads, a regular a6 6 speed driveshaft works fine if you space it down an inch. Mines had no issues in the 10k miles since the 6 speed swap
    Can you explain? My A6 6 spd swap is on the way for my Allroad. So does that driveshaft not directly match up?

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings 02 A6 2.7T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by S4NOWRS4L8ER View Post
    Can you explain? My A6 6 spd swap is on the way for my Allroad. So does that driveshaft not directly match up?
    The bracket for the center bearing is about 1" longer on the allroad than the one on the A6. This moves the centerline of the driveshaft 1" lower to account for the difference in the allroad and A6 subframe locations. If you use 1" spacers above the A6 bracket, it will line the driveshaft straighter.
    2002 A6 2.7T - 6MT Crystal Blue APR Stage 1
    2002 S6 - 6 MT Black/black
    **SOLD ** 2002 allroad 2.7T 6MT

  20. #20
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Forgot I did not post more pics:

    Here is the trans:


    Put in a short shifter and replaced the "pivot" ball near the front of the linkage with a OEM part. Nice crisp shifts!


    Resurfaced flywheel with RS4 clutch.


    Here is a video of how much flywheel twist the double mass flywheel has, but would still be well within spec.


    Trans all bolted in. Just a word of advice, if you try to turn one of the flanges of the outputs it will not necessarily spin one of the other flanges because of the center torsin diff. I was getting concerned that my flywheel was not engaging because I could turn the output shafts in gear. I was use to a standard rwd trans that the output would not move.

  21. #21
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by 03a4b6ztk View Post
    Sub'd for this. I just picked up a 2.7t allroad yesterday and this is one of the first threads I have come across in this area! Glad to see someone doing it detailed.

    Do you have any other threads on the topic? as far as parts and costs? Or will that all be added here?
    I purchased this as a kit, because my tip went and I wanted to get it back on the road as fast as possible.

    Would I do it that way again NO. It took 3 months from the time I ordered it to the time I got all the CORRECT parts.

    As for a list of parts:

    01E transmission (if you want the 4:11 final ratio you want one of the following trans codes DQT,DSY, EDU, EEY, FRP, FTF, Mine was the EDU
    flywheel, clutch and pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, Transmission to block bolts, they are different lengths than the tip

    shifter linkage, shifter, boot/plate

    clutch slave cylinder, clutch hard line, hard line retainer clips (2)
    clutch master cylinder, clutch fluid supply hose
    driveshaft from an allroad, if not from an A6 with a spacer at the trans ,Audi4parts sells one, and a 1" spacer at the center support bearing.
    rear differential with ratio to match manual transmission (4.11) mine had a code of EUU (DSA should also work)
    clutch assembly with clutch vacuum interrupt switch, clutch interlock switch
    brake pedal, pedal pivot pin
    reverse light switch and pigtail
    front axle shafts from allroad

  22. #22
    Junior Member One Ring Macreed_65's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02 A6 2.7T View Post
    The bracket for the center bearing is about 1" longer on the allroad than the one on the A6. This moves the centerline of the driveshaft 1" lower to account for the difference in the allroad and A6 subframe locations. If you use 1" spacers above the A6 bracket, it will line the driveshaft straighter.
    I'm about to embark on this swap myself so I just want to be clear.. the Allroad driveshaft will in fact work with the swap but if you change to an A6 driveshaft then the spacer will be needed.. (for clarification)

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings Racin2redline's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Macreed_65 View Post
    I'm about to embark on this swap myself so I just want to be clear.. the Allroad driveshaft will in fact work with the swap but if you change to an A6 driveshaft then the spacer will be needed.. (for clarification)

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
    yes did the swap 10k miles ago and used an a6 driveshaft spaced down an inch with some homemade brass spacers from the hardware store

    the TIP allroad driveshaft will be short, I wouldn't reccomend using any type of driveshaft extender spacer. ( not support bearing spacer)
    IG: d3bel1o

  24. #24
    Senior Member Two Rings blackmage's Avatar
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    toms73novass, how has the swap treated you thus far?
    DRIVE A HYBRID MY MUSTANG NEEDS YOUR GAS
    -95 Mustang GTS - Sold :(
    -96 Mustang GT - 4v swap
    -03 Audi Allroad 6MT swapped, stuklr tuned

  25. #25
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    It is awesome, the car is not the same car.

    I wish I had known that the auto was on its way out so that I could have collected parts myself.

    But there is no comparison, plus since then I went stage 3 and it is even more of a blast.

  26. #26
    Junior Member One Ring
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    I know this thread is old BUT... Do you delete the vacuum pump? I assume the pump just wouldn't turn on anymore after the software update. Also the whole coding part is gonna be new to me so I may have questions. Like do you need a chiptune or can you just go in to the original software and make the changes with vcds?

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