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  1. #1
    Senior Member Four Rings JDillon15's Avatar
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    Exclamation Bleeding the Coolant System

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    Grabbed this from the B6 DIY section... Still work for our cars?

    Credit to : zz2h33

    The Original; with pictures.

    DO this if you are running the green stuff, DO this if you have a mix of green and pink (brown), DO this if you're running original coolant with more then 50k miles.

    I've seen several recent posts on this, and there doesnt seem to be an official DIY on here. So here goes:

    This is the easiest and less messy way to do a complete coolant system flush (with heater core).

    Drain coolant
    1. Jack front end of car up enough to fit a bucket under the car, on the left side of the radiator core.
    2. Place bucket under the lower radiator hose at the core.
    3. Remove reservoir cap.
    4. (3.0L only) Locate drain cock on lower radiator hose, near the core:


    5. Open this drain cock, it will twist to the left 90 degrees then pull out a little, then twist again 90 degrees then pull out more. *Note, it does NOT pull out all the way! This will open the valve and the coolant will begin to drain on the side of the valve:



    **If the drain cock is tight and doesnt want to twist DONT FORCE IT! You will most likely break the hose fitting and will need to replace it. Remove the lower radiator hose from the core instead by removing the clip on the top.

    5a. (1.8L only) There is a sensor located in the same location that is clipped in, remove this sensor to drain the coolant.

    6. Once coolant is finished draining into your bucket, close the drain cock same way as you opened it (push up, twist, push up more, twist).

    7. Fill coolant reservoir with hot tap water.

    8. Put resevior cap back on.

    9. Start engine, put heater on "HI" temp, fan on low.

    10. Let car warm until hot air blows from heater, then shut off the engine.

    11. Slowly remove reservoir cap to allow system to vent slowly.

    12. Drain coolant system again. *Note, reservoir cap must be removed for system to drain.

    Repeat steps 4 - 12 until run off from coolant system is clear. You will notice the run off will become more and more diluted. Took me 4 times until mine was completely clear.

    12. Once run off is clear and system is drained again, fill reservoir with STRAIGHT, undiluted G12 coolant. This is because when you drain the system, you are only draining about half of the full capacity (as you will see you drain about a gallon out each time). So, you have about a gallon of straight water left in the system. Thus, adding straight G12 will give you roughly 50/50 mixture. If your skeptical buy a freeze point tester and test the antifreeze mixture.

    13. Replace reservoir cap and start engine. Heat on HI temp, fan on low. Let car warm up completely. If no hot air is coming from the heater, or the engine seems to over heat, the system will need to be purged of air (see below).

    14. Shut engine down, let it cool for a bit then check coolant level. Top off as needed. Check at least 2 more times after driving the car. It should eventually take about a gallon of coolant.

    To purge (bleed) air from the system:
    - Wearing a good set of gloves, after engine has been running and system is warm, carefully and slowly remove the reservoir cap. The system will vent, gurgle, spit, etc. and you will notice the coolant level in the reservoir will drop.

    - Top off with 50/50 mixture of coolant, replace cap, start engine and repeat until system is fully purged and coolant level remains full (heat works or engine doesnt over heat).

    Be sure to dispose of used coolant properly.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings vce1232000's Avatar
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    To just bleed air out of system on the 2.0T. Remove the engine cover and there is a bleeder screw on top of the coolant pipe. Just crack the bleeder screw when hot and listen to the air to escape. Mite have to repeat steps a few times to get all air out
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  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings MacFady's Avatar
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    Not sure if the bleed screw on that hardline is plastic or metal on the B7, but the plastic one on the B6 is a pain and prone to breaking. I usually just pop off the 2 screws for the coolant reserviour and elevate it a little bit (higher than the hard line with the bleed screw) when refilling and let it bleed air through the reserviour cap. Might not do it that way next time since I now have a metal metric bolt in the hard line, but I had good success in the past using the reserviour so I thought I'd mention it.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings Biged243's Avatar
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    It works but probably should use distiller water instead of tap and make sure to burp the system even though you can get by with it by having the cap off, even though I don't remember seeing a radiator cap.
    What ever makes sense go with the opposite and you got it

  5. #5
    Senior Member Four Rings JDillon15's Avatar
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    Okay I can turn that hard line at the bottom, but nothing is coming out.


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  6. #6
    Deactivated Four Rings
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    It's a metal hard line and a metal screw. No issues with using the bleed screw. It's common practice to use tap water for the first flush, and until the liquid is nearly clear - then do one more flush using distilled water, and then use a mix of distilled water and G12/G13 coolant when filling.

    The petcock at the bottom of the radiator can be a pain in the ass. If you turned it and nothing came out, you didn't turn it enough.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Four Rings JDillon15's Avatar
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    Turn it more than 90?


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  8. #8
    Deactivated Four Rings
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    Yes. It should be 180. If you can't get it off, then remove the lower hose instead. It's in step #5 that you posted...

  9. #9
    Senior Member Four Rings JDillon15's Avatar
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    Bleeding the Coolant System

    Finally got it.... This could take a while. Thanks for the quick responses! I picked up 2 gallons of distilled water... Will I need more?


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  10. #10
    Senior Member Four Rings JDillon15's Avatar
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    Okay, I'm letting the car heat up til it blows warm. Everything comes out clear. I expected it to be different?


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  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings Biged243's Avatar
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    One or two more won't hurt plus it is like 1 or 2 dollars per gallon.
    What ever makes sense go with the opposite and you got it

  12. #12
    Deactivated Four Rings
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    The system holds 2 gallons of coolant/water mixture, so you should be good.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Four Rings JDillon15's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kegobeer View Post
    The system holds 2 gallons of coolant/water mixture, so you should be good.
    What isn't draining out? I just filled it the second time after letting it all run out. Only put in a 1/2 gallon. And everything was clear? What hose do I pull? This freaking plug thing has pissed me ofd


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  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings Biged243's Avatar
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    The one at the very bottom of the radiator on the left(driver) side.
    What ever makes sense go with the opposite and you got it

  15. #15
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Biged243 View Post
    It works but probably should use distiller water instead of tap and make sure to burp the system even though you can get by with it by having the cap off, even though I don't remember seeing a radiator cap.
    No radiator cap, just the expansion tank. You really should use distilled water as it has no minerals in it, and of coarse: the proper coolant (g12 from what I recall)


    Problems getting air out? I didn't want to deal with it, so I bought the vac kit from ECS: http://www.ecstuning.com/News/Univer...014/ES2712734/

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