Help: Wheel bearing hub stuck on knuckle

[kholy]

So today in efforts to replace a noisy wheel bearing my buddy and I went to replaced the existing one. Once we got all parts removed and got down to the bearing assembly we removed the 4 bolts hoping this would come right off. Wrong, the thing has seized itself inside the knuckle and we are unable to get it out. in our efforts we actually pulled out the pressed bearing of the existing but the housing of the old one is still in. We have tried a slide hammer, heat, hammer, and a bunch of things and we cannot get it.

has this happened to anyone?

What did you do?

we are at a standstill and riding my motorcycle most likely (hopefully no rain)

attached are pics of process

[Let it snow]

Sounds like it needs to be pressed out.http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-...ess-33497.html

[customa4]

When I had this problem I sprayed it with lots of PB Blaster. I used a flat head screw driver on the edges and just kept trying to pry. Then I put a big socket on the back side of the hub and hammered. Just kept repeating until it fell out. It was a pain in the ass but eventually it did budge.

[n7plus1]

yeah, thats a bitch..just keep pounding at it.

[Dubsport Inc]

Bit of heat helps... put some anti-seize around the new housing for next time! Good luck!

[blitz2190]

i just so happen to do mine last night, was a biiiitch, take a putty knife and work it around the groove with a hammer to loosen the rust then use the slide hammer and hit like you mean it, took a good 15 min of pounding to get it.

[elewsader]

When I had this problem I sprayed it with lots of PB Blaster. I used a flat head screw driver on the edges and just kept trying to pry. Then I put a big socket on the back side of the hub and hammered. Just kept repeating until it fell out. It was a pain in the ass but eventually it did budge.

After I pulled the knuckle off, this is exactly what I did……it sucked to remove it, but it was the only way to get any real leverage.

[lookaught]

I've done several of those from rust belt cars. I needed a press for every one. Take the knuckle out and use a press, the corrosion will be immense. Even with a press it takes considerable force to get it out, as much if not more than when I've pressed bearings out of steel knuckles that have no bolts/housing. Just take it to a small garage they can knock it out in like 2 minutes if you don't have a press of your own.

[needmovies]

I just did mine a couple weeks ago as well. I took the knuckle off and supported it so the hub/bearing was facing down but wasn't touching the ground. I then pounded the back of the bearing/hub with a mini 3 lb sledge.


Also just a heads up, I had some issues putting them back on as well. There were some crusted dirt or something on the knuckle where the housing is supposed to sit, so the bearing housing wouldn't sit flat. I had to clean off the crust with a wire brush. Then I had to lightly hammer the housing in place using a rubber dead blow

[blownb6]

U guys over complicate this , i just used a very very sharp chizzle (sp), i changed both front wheel bearings like 2-3 hours. Yah it did ding the knuckle very slightly but it absolutely has no effect on performace. And to clean it up inside i used wire brush on drill worked great .

[seanf86]

Move the axle out of the way and hit it with an air hammer, worked for me, maybe try some heat and an air hammer, then use a dremel and a sanding disc and clean out the knuckle and lots of anti seized on the new bearing

[blitz2190]

never hit the the back where the spline is thats a good way to mess it up, your doing it the correct way its just a pita but it will go eventually, like i said before if its really stubborn work around the flange with a chisel or putty knife and hammer to break the rust free then slide hammer it out.

[diagnosticator]

Remove upright/knuckle from car and use a hydraulic press to remove the wheel bearing hub and press the new parts together as needed. Hammering or using prying tools will damage the parts.

[kholy]

ITS FREE! A bunch of heat + slide hammer!!!!

Thanks everyone

[rexhavoc]

Hi all, In the same boat as the OP, except without the 'free' part. Been slide hammering all weekend, and it's soaking in PB Blaster now. A bigger torch is my last resort.
What's the skinny on removing the upright/knuckle? Looks like 5 joints... do some need to be replaced after separating? Certainly an alignment afterwards...?


thx

[seanf86]

Hi all, In the same boat as the OP, except without the 'free' part. Been slide hammering all weekend, and it's soaking in PB Blaster now. A bigger torch is my last resort.
What's the skinny on removing the upright/knuckle? Looks like 5 joints... do some need to be replaced after separating? Certainly an alignment afterwards...?


thx

alignment is a good idea, that pinch bolt is going to be a huge pain unless your suspension has been replaced recently, if thats the case unbolt the control arms from the strut top hat and remove the upright with the upper control arms still attached to the upright, none should need replacing unless you muck up the boots separating them.

[blitz2190]

if you have another big hammer have someone hit the bearing flange while you slide hammer it, we used an air hammer and slide hammer on my second one and it was like butter

[Brens]

Air hammer! It will come out no problem.

[ECS Tuning-Audi]

Another good tip for getting out struck bearing cases is to back out the 4 bolts about half way or so, then when they are loose rap on them with an air hammer.

This should break up some of the corrosion. Then you can use the slide hammer to pop the whole thing out.

Jason

[rexhavoc]

Hmm, perhaps I need a bigger compressor..
mine is only a portable two tank unit so the air hammer drops the pressure to useless in seconds.

thanks guys,

[keykey]

Another good tip for getting out struck bearing cases is to back out the 4 bolts about half way or so, then when they are loose rap on them with an air hammer.

This should break up some of the corrosion. Then you can use the slide hammer to pop the whole thing out.

Jason

This is my best tip as well. Back out the mounting bolts a bit, but do not remove. Then hammer on the bolts with air hammer or sledge, that has worked for me everytime! :)

[rexhavoc]

Here's an update:
Over the years I've been doing my own repairs this needed the highest application of force I've ever seen, off road vehicles included.
The local "road salt" cocktail seems to have reacted with (something) to precipitate out a ring of STONE (not stones) around the bearing.
Calcium carbonate, aka limestone perhaps?

What didn't work: air hammer from the back, sledge on protruding bolts, magic PB Blaster, chisels. While slide hammer was essential to getting it done, on it's own it couldn't do the whole job.
What did work:
- Pulled the hub and the inner half of the bearing out with a slide hammer (I put a plastic sleeve on it to protect the splines).
- 7" Angle grinder with a metal wheel to radial cuts in the bearing flange as deep as I dared, making 3/4" "tabs" in it
- Drift punch to bend the "tabs" inward till metal fatigue broke them off, creating tiny gaps between the flange and the upright.
- Once about a quarter of the flange was relieved this way, very large (2 1/8" I think) socket from behind on the slide hammer and a few more mighty slams got it out.

Cleaning the stone out of the upright was an exercise in masonry work. Wire wheeling it filled the garage air with particulate; couldn't even tell I washed the car just before.

If the next one puts up the slightest resistance, I'm getting the angle grinder out pronto.

Thanks for the encouragement guys,

[dirtydub01]

When I was in the same situation just months ago in my B6 S4 I backed out all the bolts about half way from the back of the bearing and put an extension on the back of the bolt and the other end of the extension on the frame. Had a buddy start the car and slowly turned the wheel, Viola a hydrailic press! Took a couple turns into the bolt then your hear it break free. A couple raps of the air hammer and it was out. Not exaclyt an Audi approved method I'm sure but its "Oh Shit I'm out of options" approved for sure.

[rexhavoc]

Brilliant idea! I just ordered the other bearing, I may try the built-in hydraulic press option before the angle grinder, and report back.

[VAGlover]

Brilliant idea! I just ordered the other bearing, I may try the built-in hydraulic press option before the angle grinder, and report back.

angle grinder sounds a little intense.
here's my experience.

my slide hammer happened to get half the bearing out
the outer race or pulled out with the slide hammer and the rest remained.

i ultimately just removed the whole knuckle and brought it to a local shop.
they pressed the rest of the bearing out for like $20

or if you have a work bench there's a few ways to smash it out using heavy hammers and other large objects. im sure you could look up some techniques on youtube.
i don't believe my explanation would suffice.


good luck.

[KHARDa4]

I used a air hammer with the bell shaped adapter with the flat edge and hammered clockwise then counter clockwise back and forth until it fell out of the spindle. Worked like a charm. You will need to press the bearing out and in.