Need help with a 1.8T AWP Engine I'm looking at

[jjeziora]

Hi Guys,

I'm pretty brand new here and have been looking for a car for the last month or so. I have been doing rigorous research in order to make sure I am buying something that is going to have reliability as well as the performance I am looking for.

I am looking exclusively for Audis and VWs. My eyes were originally set on an S4 B5 but I have sort of gotten scared off due to reliability concerns.

Currently I am looking at a VW 1.8T GTI 20th with 130,000KM. It is currently owned by a local VW Tech who has done all the work on it to bring it where it is now.

He has built the engine with Arp Head Studs, Integrated Rods, sem intake manifold, to support his GT2871 BT build.

If he takes good maintenance of the car is this something that will last me a long time without huge $ having to go into it assuming I learn how to maintain the car properly?

What should I look for in the engine to make sure it will be long lasting and reliable and won't break down and cost lots of $.

Any input would be helpful, I'm trying to learn as much as possible but could use all the help I can get.

Thanks!

[Toolaa]

You should understand that a car with mods like this even when professionally done will increase the overall likelihood of problems or failures. The car was engineered with specific HP in mind. The modifications you listed all point to someone who took the right steps to safely increase the power of the motor. However there are many related systems which are now under greater strain.

The fact that the PO was a VW tech means that he anticipated and was likely prepared to deal with these issues as they arose.

The question now becomes how confidant in your own a abilities are you to be able to anticipate, identify and solve these types of problems. If your skills are solid or your wallet is fat then you will have less downtime and subsequently be able to drive more.

If the PO has all of the service records, receipts, photos ect. Thats a good sign. Also if the car looks very clean inside and out it's another good sign that the PO really cared about the car. While not always true usually someone who puts a lot of attention into how the car looks also pays attention to how it runs.

All this being said even if this is a great buy you should be prepared to spend more money on regular and preventive maintenance on this car than for example a Honda Accord.

Lastly if you are not going to do future repairs yourself do you have a shop in mind who will. If so maybe see if the PO will agree to letting your mechanic check it out before you buy. I realize the PO is a mechanic and you may be thinking you will rely on this guy to do the work. In some ways he knows the car inside and out so that could be good and help to diagnose and fix problems faster which would save some money. However i don't like to assume the worst in people but lets think about a scenario where something goes wrong in 6 months and you are faced with a $1500 repair bill. Are you going to feel that the PO has some accountability in the failure? If so those feelings may come across as you discuss and negotiate the repair work. Don't assume that the PO will give you any special treatment of do any favors for you. He may be too busy with his regular job or own life to be a reliable source. He may also not want to deal with any emotional baggage associated with fixing his previous car for a dissatisfied new owner. So have a solid backup repair option.


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[jjeziora]

Thanks for the help! I appreciate you taking the time like that. To be honest I would love to and plan on learning how to do as much work as possible on my car myself but I have literally no experience at the moment.

I want a car that is reliable and has performance like this one. But am I really going to be paying 1000s more per year for that performance? That's what I want to know. Like is there anything else I should ask the PO that would help me get an idea of whether it is or isnt? Im pretty sure he takes great care of the car because he takes it out to shows and such as well as investing all this money into the engine build having all the right support upgrades and then with air ride suspension, etc. I am 100% willing to put money into the preventative maintenance, but what does that entail? 1000s in maintenance per year? I dont know how much maintenance will run me

[Seerlah]

You need to understand that you are interested in a rather highly modified vehicle. I ran that same turbo in the past and it's power output is more than decent for street driving (he should have over 300fwhp). Not going to look up exact HP, but you need to understand that that is an incredible jump from stock power. Figure 150-200bhp (not going to look up it's original HP) to 350-425bhp (GT2871R is rated at 450hp or 45lbs/min...engine and tune dependant). More than double the power equals much more strain on the vehicle's parts. And unless you have the ambition to learn how to maintain a modified vehicle, I highly suggest you stay away unless you want to come out the pockets rather heavily each time an issue arises Just being honest. Or learn along the way when sh*t does break. There are many on the interwebz (myself included) to assist when things go awry.

Stock or modified, VW/Audis will inevitably have issues. You are just looking at them happening quicker (more times than less) with a highly modified one.

[qU/\TTRØ]

why is the owner getting rid of it?
id suggest at least doing a compression test on it too before you get into a modified car.

if ypu want something reliable, you are looking at the wrong manufactures lol

[jjeziora]

I want something reliable comparably. I understand that I am looking at more in maintenance than a japanese car or an American car. I am definitely willing to learn, are most of the common problems that I would run into things that I would be able to pick up on?

Also, I'm wondering if just having the capability and power available is going to cause that much more strain necessarily, or whether my driving will have a large impact. I know it will make a difference, but if I drive tame and normal most of the time and only really "use" it occasionally will it be that much worse still?

Thanks again for the help

[jjeziora]

He is getting rid of it because he doesn't need it and built it himself at a low cost from what I gather.

[Seerlah]

Your driving of course is what plays the important role. If you pushed the car like it had 225bhp (which you can most certainly do) then parts would break less. But with a car like that, not likely to happen (driver dependent). If you have the will to learn (maintenance and fixing repairs), go ahead and pick it up. Just hope he built it well (I would ask in the regional section if a different "tuner" Euro shop can do a PPI) and you won't be inheriting a headache. If you don't have tools, my first suggestion is a metric mechanic's tool set (Sears always has Craftsman ones on sale for great prices), small hex key set, small torx key set, hydraulic jack, and jack stands. Should get you started on just about any repair necessary. Pick up other tools along the way when necessary. Good Luck!

[jjeziora]

Thanks! I will look into those tools as soon as I find my car! I was already planning on sending it for a PPI but I hadn't thought of sending it to a tuner for a PPI which makes a lot of sense now that you mention it.

Also, am I looking at a lot less work and costs by picking up a Golf GTI 2003 vs a B5 S4? I really want the S4 but I am afraid it would be too much for me to handle in terms of maintenance and repairs as a noob.

[Toolaa]

Honestly I think you are approaching this correctly. Take your time and do your research. You can find countless posts here where people have just made an impulse buy and then regret.


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[jjeziora]

Thanks, I really hope I am. It's very tempting to just grab something fast like I have been looking at but I want to make sure it is a properly maintained and cared for care so I can just simply continue taking care of the care.

[jjeziora]

How should I be looking at a motor that has 260,000km on it but was rebuilt at around 220,000 with all new parts to support a BT 630 cc Unitronic ECU tune?

Here is some of the description of what is inside:

-Engine components
AWP 1.8t big turbo GT3076R
Integrated engineering premium forged connecting rods
Polished crankshaft
New connecting rod and main bearings
New OEM piston rings, head gasket and head bolts
Stock head and intake manifold
New OEM timing belt, water pump, tensioner and roller
Treadstone cermamic coated high flow exhaust manifold (T25 flange)
Garret GT3076R ball bearing turbo (coolant and oil fed)
Siemens 630cc fuel injectors/Bosch 044 big in-tank fuel pump
1.8t piece hybrid oil pan
Vibrant Intercooler core with SS 2.5” charge piping all tig welded
Greddy RZ blow off valve
Custom 3 inch downpipe and custom 3 inch tig welded SS exhaust with High flow cat and magnaflow muffler
Forge manual boost controller (stealth mount)
Unitronic big turbo 630 cc mafless engine management software

-Drivetrain
02J transmission with Quaife LSD unit
Stage 3 Bully Clutch
Neuspeed short shifter

-Wheels and suspension
18 “ OEM VW Aristos with new Nankang tires
5mm front and 11 mm rear spacers
Spaxx coilovers with 28 way adjustbale damper settings
R32 front sway bar and end links
Neuspeed lower subframe brace
Audi TT lower control arm bushings


Just wondering with regards to what I have been talking about in this thread and how it is applied to this car specifically. I have seen the car, it's in nice shape, next to zero rust. Right door hangs a little low, but interior is completely swapped 20th GTI interior in 9/10 shape.

Any input is helpful, appreciate it.

[Seerlah]

The parts of the block that determine how well it is running is the condition of the bearings and piston rings. All other parts are basically solid pieces of metal (rotating assembly), including the block itself. But with these moving parts there is friction on only 3 parts. The main bearings, rod bearing, and piston rings (you can throw thrust washers and wristpins in there too). When these get compromised or wear, that is when the engine shows it's true colors. You can do two things to let you get an idea of the "health" of the engine.

1) Compression test
2) Oil pressure test

This will at least let you know that the basics of the engine are in good condition (hopefully). And with a car like this, what gauges does he have in his cabin? Does he have any being sold with the car?

Another thing you can do (or have him do) is go a 2nd or 3rd gear WOT pull, log it, and have it looked at by someone who is knowledgeable about the matter (many on this forum board). That log will tell you a sh*t load about the condition of the engine side of things. But a compression test is a MUST regardless.

[jjeziora]

So a Compression test and Oil Pressure Test can help reveal whether those parts would be compromised? Im guessing that most PPIs would cover both of those tests then, it would seem important.

This is interior:

Complete 20th Interior including headliner, pillars, trim, pedals, door pulls
20th steering wheel
GTI Recaro seats
2010 City Golf radio
AEM boost/ wideband UEGO gauges
Greddy turbo timer
Wiper delete

Are there places that would do a PPI that would also be able to do a 2/3 gear WOT pull analysis?

[Seerlah]

Oil pressure was just a bonus. You want a compression test, 2nd or 3rd gear wot pull log, and whoever is doing the ppi to do a very good mechanical inspection. But if you have a tuner/mechanic who specializes in vag do the ppi, ask if he can have the compression checked along with a 2nd or 3rd gear wot pull log (and examined.

Any shop that specializes in Audi/VW can. Preferably a tuner shop. Post in the regional section for a good shop recommendation.

[jjeziora]

Thanks a ton, I am hoping the ones listed in my area can do that. I'm going to call a few on monday to get see.