Fuse Tap-in Question - Please help

[elite-fusion]

Hey guys,

I am trying to wire a dash cam, but having difficulty doing so. I am hoping someone might be able to assist.
My dash cam hardwire kit requires a Black (ground), a Red (Positive), and a Yellow which is to be connected to ACC in order to stay on 30-60 minutes after the car is shut off in order to use the parking mode on it.

I found a positive source, I have found a ground as well (screw to chassis), but I do not know where to tap into for ACC that stays on for 30-60 minutes after the car is shut off.
Can someone please advise.

Thank you.

[infinkc]

the ACC does not need to stay on for 30-60 minutes. Just find a fuse that has 12v only when the ignition is on. I posted a pic of the fuse i taped into before, let me see if i can dig it up.

edit i believe this is the pic

[elite-fusion]

But the point of this is not just to hardwire, but also for the parking mode to work on the dash cam, so when I park, lock the car and leave, for the cam to still stay on for about 30 minutes.

[Luis_Heineken]

Black to ground
Red to ACC
Yellow to constant 12 volt, just like a regular radio, this is how the radio can keep the "memory"

[elite-fusion]

Actually my unit is Red constant and Yellow is acc, but question is, which fuse I can connect the yellow to to remain power for 30 min.

[b8audis4]

But the point of this is not just to hardwire, but also for the parking mode to work on the dash cam, so when I park, lock the car and leave, for the cam to still stay on for about 30 minutes.

If you are using a blackvue I ended up saying screw the constant on wire since I didn't want the dash cam running constantly. I pulled out the two wires from the power magic pro that led to the cigarette port and just had the switched and then the ground.

[elite-fusion]

I am not, I am using a Panorama 2S cam which came with one of these units ... (see attached pdf)
looks like i cannot attach
https://forum.dashcamtalk.com/thread...ti-safer.4603/

[fritze18]

B8? or B8.5? Reason I ask, is because the wiring in the fuse blocks is slightly different between the two.

[elite-fusion]

b8? Or b8.5? Reason i ask, is because the wiring in the fuse blocks is slightly different between the two.

b8.5 2014 s4

[fritze18]

b8.5 2014 s4

On driver's side, behind panel cover on the side of the dash:

2010-2012 (B8)
For constant power- Red fuse block, small (thin) red/white wire
For switched power- Brown fuse block, small (thin) black/red wire

2013+ (B8.5)
For constant power- Red fuse block, small (thin) red/white wire
For switched power- Black fuse block, small (thin) black/purple wire

[elite-fusion]

2010-2012 (B8)
For constant power- Red fuse block, small (thin) red/white wire
For switched power- Brown fuse block, small (thin) black/red wire

2013+ (B8.5)
For constant power- Red fuse block, small (thin) red/white wire
For switched power- Black fuse block, small (thin) black/purple wire

THanks for the info, so I will be able to connect the red and the yellow wire to the red/white wire and it will be a constant power?
WHere do I find the red fuse block? I am unsure of this.
Please advise.

[fritze18]

THanks for the info, so I will be able to connect the red and the yellow wire to the red/white wire and it will be a constant power?
WHere do I find the red fuse block? I am unsure of this.
Please advise.

Typically, the yellow wire goes to a constant power source, while the red wire goes to a switched power source. I can't answer this for you. You'll have to consult the installation instructions that came with the dash cam.

Sorry, I should have specified this. All of the fuse blocks that I am referring to are located on the driver's side, behind the panel cover on the side of the dash. I'll update my earlier post to reflect this information.

[elite-fusion]

Do you happen to have a diagram of the fuses, which are which? I do not have an owners manual that came with my '14 S4

[elite-fusion]

these are the instructions
instructions

[fritze18]

I don't have a diagram of the fuses. The wires I am suggesting to tap into are as follows:

Red/white small (thin) wire- Anti-theft alarm warning system (5 Amp)
Black/purple small (thin) wire- Auxiliary fuse (instrument panel) (10 Amp)

According to your instructions that you posted, the red and yellow are opposite of the ordinary. Your red goes to constant, while your yellow goes to switched.
In this case, your red goes to the red/white, and your yellow goes to the black/purple. It looks as if your settings are all done through your "Multi Safer" for how long the camera stays on after the vehicle is off, etc.

[Luis_Heineken]

Actually my unit is Red constant and Yellow is acc, but question is, which fuse I can connect the yellow to to remain power for 30 min.

just use a test light to find the power source. a multi meter can be used too

[achilleas101]

these are the instructions
instructions

um, per those instructions, the yellow is the constant and red is switched (acc). Now, i don't really think it should make a difference on when the switched power shuts off. These types of power regulators work off the constant power when you turn off the engine. Which is why you better make sure you have a good power regulator because otherwise your battery will drain.

For my install, which is using the powermagic pro for the Blackvue (which i'm guessing works similarly to this thing), I went to the driver's side fuses and used the soundaktor (#5) fuse on the A block for switched, i.e. RED wire, and the #11 on the C block for the constant i.e. YELLOW wire (it's for the Cabriolet rear window regulator, and even though i don't have the Cab, and there is no fuse on that slot, it still has contacts that get constant power to it).

Use these types of fuse taps, don't try to splice into the wires or anything (for the A block: http://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Bl...words=fuse+tap, for the C block: http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA...words=fuse+tap). yes, there are 2 different sized fuses.

[elite-fusion]

um, per those instructions, the yellow is the constant and red is switched (acc). Now, i don't really think it should make a difference on when the switched power shuts off. These types of power regulators work off the constant power when you turn off the engine. Which is why you better make sure you have a good power regulator because otherwise your battery will drain.

For my install, which is using the powermagic pro for the Blackvue (which i'm guessing works similarly to this thing), I went to the driver's side fuses and used the soundaktor (#5) fuse on the A block for switched, i.e. RED wire, and the #11 on the C block for the constant i.e. YELLOW wire (it's for the Cabriolet rear window regulator, and even though i don't have the Cab, and there is no fuse on that slot, it still has contacts that get constant power to it).

Use these types of fuse taps, don't try to splice into the wires or anything (for the A block: http://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Bl...words=fuse+tap, for the C block: http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA...words=fuse+tap). yes, there are 2 different sized fuses.

do you happen to have the owners manual for your '13 S4? Mine didnt come with it and I would like to know which fuses are which in the fuse boxes so I know which to tap into ?

[NPuter]

Here is a quick writeup I did on my Blackvue Power Magic Pro wiring which requires a connection to constant power and to switched (ignition) power. You can select (via a switch on the box) whether the dash cam is powered when the car is off.

OK just grabbed some pics for you

General overview of fuse panel. Top left add a fuse is the switched connection, and bottom right is always on.



I didn't actually tap any existing fuses - I just stuck the add a fuse into empty, but still powered slots (not all open slots have a power connection.
The orientation you insert them in is also important (use the orientations you see in my pics)

You can see that most of the switched fuse slots have a power connection, but not many of the always on ones do (only one besides the one I used is the slot above the red 10 fuse)



You just need the addition fuse in the add a fuse (slot closest to you when looking at it from the angles I posted), and use very small fuses.



Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[elite-fusion]

Thanks for the help guys. I did go ahead and order both of those add-a-cercuit wires.
Before I go that route though, is there anyway to tap into the garage door opener?

Technically the garage door opener only works when power to the car is on, so that can be my RED wire (as per instructions) and the YELLOW wire would have to go a constant on which constantly stays on regardless of car being on or off. Dome would work, but doesn't the dome turn off after 30 minutes of the car being locked?

I just do not want to wire it all the way from the fuse box all the way up, and want to keep it all localized in the top dome light area.

[achilleas101]

Thanks for the help guys. I did go ahead and order both of those add-a-cercuit wires.
Before I go that route though, is there anyway to tap into the garage door opener?

Technically the garage door opener only works when power to the car is on, so that can be my RED wire (as per instructions) and the YELLOW wire would have to go a constant on which constantly stays on regardless of car being on or off. Dome would work, but doesn't the dome turn off after 30 minutes of the car being locked?

I just do not want to wire it all the way from the fuse box all the way up, and want to keep it all localized in the top dome light area.

running the wire down to the fuse box is not that hard. you can easily tuck it into the headliner along the windshield (your fingers should be enough, but a thin plastic tool or credit card can help if your fingers are too big). Then the A-pillar again is very simple (pop the ABS clip, unscrew the screw and you have enough play to run the wire down behind the airbag to the fusebox). I'd say this is easier than messing with the dome light.

doing it this way also makes it easily reversible in the case you want to remove it in the future, unlike splicing into wires. it's the cleaner install.

[elite-fusion]

running the wire down to the fuse box is not that hard. you can easily tuck it into the headliner along the windshield (your fingers should be enough, but a thin plastic tool or credit card can help if your fingers are too big). Then the A-pillar again is very simple (pop the ABS clip, unscrew the screw and you have enough play to run the wire down behind the airbag to the fusebox). I'd say this is easier than messing with the dome light.

doing it this way also makes it easily reversible in the case you want to remove it in the future, unlike splicing into wires. it's the cleaner install.

True,
I might just end up doing it this way when I get home tonight.

I am still trying to figure out which fuses go to where though. Black I know goes to a screw for ground. Red would go to the ACC power only when car is on (not sure which fuse would do the trick), and Yellow would go to Constant power no matter if car is on or off (not sure which fuse would do the trick)

I really need to invest in a multimeter lol

[achilleas101]

True,
I might just end up doing it this way when I get home tonight.

I am still trying to figure out which fuses go to where though. Black I know goes to a screw for ground. Red would go to the ACC power only when car is on (not sure which fuse would do the trick), and Yellow would go to Constant power no matter if car is on or off (not sure which fuse would do the trick)

I really need to invest in a multimeter lol

well you can use the same ones i did, as previously mentioned. red to #5 in bank A (5 amp fuse), yellow to #11 in bank C (assuming 5 or 10 amp fuse). No multimeter necessary! ...unless you want to use other ones. i liked those because they were the least "dangerous" i.e. i wasn't using them anyway so i wouldn't accidentally screw something up (yes, i pulled the soundaktor fuse to disable it).

[elite-fusion]

well you can use the same ones i did, as previously mentioned. red to #5 in bank A (5 amp fuse), yellow to #11 in bank C (assuming 5 or 10 amp fuse). No multimeter necessary! ...unless you want to use other ones. i liked those because they were the least "dangerous" i.e. i wasn't using them anyway so i wouldn't accidentally screw something up (yes, i pulled the soundaktor fuse to disable it).

I like the soundaktor lol I know its cheesy but I rather have it, than not have it lol

[elite-fusion]

Hey man,

The two inline fuses are coming in today, just wondering, which fuse should I use. I know you said to use the red to #5 in bank A (which is ACC) and yellow to #11 in bank C (which is CONSTANT) correct?
If I want to keep the sounaktor, would I be able to do this? Since the things did not come in yet, I am unsure of how it looks/works, so just want to make sure before I start fondling with it lol

I want to hardwire my V1 and my dashcam, so dash came is settled with which fuses, and the V1 I can wire to the same wire that will go to ACC since I only want the radar on when the car is on, correct?
I have a hardwire kit for the V1 though which has an inline fuse in it already, so not exactly sure what to wire it to.

[achilleas101]

first you'll need to have fuses. you'll need a 5amp mini fuse (for the acc) and 5 or 10 amp atc fuse (for the constant which yes, would the #11 in bank C). The fuse taps have 2 fuse slots. the one closer to the metal prongs is for the existing car function. if you leave that open, the car function will be like you pulled its fuse. So for the ACC one piggy backing on the soundaktor, you'll need both slots filled with a fuse.

for the constant one, since i'm guessing yours is currently blank, you just need 1 fuse for the dash cam, and it goes into the tap's outside / away from the prongs slot.

i can't speak to how you'd wire the V1. i don't know about their voltage requirements, so i don't know if splicing that wire into the dashcam's wire will pull too much current or not.

[elite-fusion]

first you'll need to have fuses. you'll need a 5amp mini fuse (for the acc) and 5 or 10 amp atc fuse (for the constant which yes, would the #11 in bank C). The fuse taps have 2 fuse slots. the one closer to the metal prongs is for the existing car function. if you leave that open, the car function will be like you pulled its fuse. So for the ACC one piggy backing on the soundaktor, you'll need both slots filled with a fuse.

for the constant one, since i'm guessing yours is currently blank, you just need 1 fuse for the dash cam, and it goes into the tap's outside / away from the prongs slot.

i can't speak to how you'd wire the V1. i don't know about their voltage requirements, so i don't know if splicing that wire into the dashcam's wire will pull too much current or not.

I really hope that I got this lol I will try to install this tonight or tomorrow and see where that gets me lol
Thanks for your help man. I just hope if I get stuck, someone will be able to help out right away instead of waiting for the next day, but obviously i cannot expect anyone to jump on to help lmao
Im not that stupid, i hope i get what you're saying :)

[elite-fusion]

So, I got it done finally. It wasnt easy to get time to do this, but finally did it.
I do have 2 questions though.
Where do I find a negative/ground source?
I am not sure how to put the wire through the airbag. I ended up doing in under the white airbag strap at the end of the A-pillar. Because I figured that if it was going to be over the strap, it would take it with it when the airbag deploys (which I hope I will never need to have a reason to experience it). Or am I wrong?

Please advise.

[purelife]

Does the fuse box cover close with all those wires?

[achilleas101]

for the ground, there's a bolt that has a nut attached to it at the top left area of the fuse box. use that. get either a ring style or spade style crimp-on wire terminal and attach it to the negative wire, then secure the terminal behind the nut along the bolt, such that the terminal is making good contact to the metal and is held tightly into place by the nut.

what you did for the airbag sounds about right.

[elite-fusion]

Does the fuse box cover close with all those wires?

Yes, closes with no issue at all.

[elite-fusion]

for the ground, there's a bolt that has a nut attached to it at the top left area of the fuse box. use that. get either a ring style or spade style crimp-on wire terminal and attach it to the negative wire, then secure the terminal behind the nut along the bolt, such that the terminal is making good contact to the metal and is held tightly into place by the nut.

what you did for the airbag sounds about right.

Thanks man :) I will have to get that wired as well.
I am just nervous about the airbag. I am unsure if I certainly did it correctly or not.