help with Tip & Forge splitter

[RastAudiA4]

New to the community, recently bought my a4 b5 with k04 upgrade. There was some half ass jobs done and im trying to clean it up. The most obvious is that the TIP is missing some connections, assuming they where deleted (throwing codes), and that the Forge splitter isn't properly hooked up and not recirced

did plenty of searching and learning but still can't figure out some things. On the write up and faQs they had pcv and other things to plug in. My question is, how to properly install the splitter in my situation (with the line deletions) basically i don't know where to return the hose for recirc closest to the engine. it is already zip tied to the splitter but i have no idea where its supposed to be recirculating back to.

forgive me if i sound like i have no idea what im talking about, but first audi\turbo car and learning I included a pic below, also can you all tell me what exactly is missing/deleted or half deleted.

[AudiB5owner]

Possible PCV, SAI, EVAP delete.

The TIP connection goes to the EVAP Purge Solenoid ( I think ).

The hard pipes are for Secondary Air Injection and Positive Crankcase breather system (the PCV also usually has a puck valve hooked up to the TIP)

There should also be things deleted and or ghetto rigged at the vacuum pieces by the back of the engine by the brake booster.

[walky_talky20]

Assuming the black hose (outlined in red) actually connects to the turbo outlet somehow, then the Splitter is installed correctly (at least theoretically). The recirc port is the side port and it is correctly connected to the TIP. The bottom port should connect to the charge port, and this picture can't verify that, but if it is making noise when you lift then we can assume it's getting boost.

However, the splitter is hooked up in what is normally the PRV port (ie: "puck" or "pancake" valve). So if you want to return the PCV to an "active", fresh air circulating system, then you will need to install the Splitter in a more traditional location and free up that port. The large port with the white question mark nearest the timing belt cover is where it should connect. That port should have a plastic 90 fitting and squiggly hose that goes down toward the charge pipe. The Splitter should mount directly in the charge pipe and the squiggly hose will attach to the side port. If these fittings and hoses were throw away, it may be some messing around to find them separately.

Get us pics of the other side of the engine bay. Also, move the coolant reservoir and take a pic of under the intake manifold (the side of the engine block).

[RastAudiA4]

ok, the hose outlined red, isn't connected to anything right now, it was just dumping into the atmosphere.
Im going to leave the splitter on that bung until i figure out the mess of the pcv and sai lines. Now im just trying to get the bov to recirc. How can i achieve that?'

I took plenty of more pics, but it would help if you told me what exactly to take a pic of, behind engine

[walky_talky20]

ok, the hose outlined red, isn't connected to anything right now, it was just dumping into the atmosphere.

wait, wait, WAIT...WHAT?

In the photo, the forge splitter is connected to the turbo inlet. And it dumps that to *atmosphere*? It is not even connected - not even rubbing up against the hoses with actual boost in them. I would be surprised if it even idles.

This car is like *next level* messed up. But it's yellow. So at least there's that.


With the coolant tank flipped up, put your camera exactly where the coolant tank was and point it toward the engine. This will take a nice photo of the side of the intake manifold: useless. Now move the camera about 6 inches straight down and take that photo again. This will show us the PCV situation. And a "situation" it will be. Also take a few photos through the intake manifold runners, straight down. Perhaps use a flashlight so we can see into the abyss and we aren't just looking at the runners. We want to see through them to what lies beneath.

[GrapeBandit]

delete the rats nest of hoses etc...sai delete, pcv delete.

. . .and welcome to the brilliant yellow club! what state are you in?

[RastAudiA4]

wait, wait, WAIT...WHAT?

In the photo, the forge splitter is connected to the turbo inlet. And it dumps that to *atmosphere*? It is not even connected - not even rubbing up against the hoses with actual boost in them. I would be surprised if it even idles.

This car is like *next level* messed up. But it's yellow. So at least there's that.

if by turbo inlet you mean the tip, then yes when i got the car the splitter was connected to just the tip like the photo, and the tip on the inlet side on the turbo no line going to the top of the splitter and that hose outlined in red just sat there not connected to anything. The car idles at 800 and i can drive it :0 but it flutters

Hopefully this pic is what you are looking for? I took a few more also. As for the runners, is it as easy as just take off the mani and snap pic?


I think i found the line that goes to the top of the splitter, i found it comming off the throttle body, to another module, and from that module another line acting as if it where in route to the turbo, and it was plugged.

how bad is my situation?

delete the rats nest of hoses etc...sai delete, pcv delete.

And yeah i did figure i'd have to spend some time on that diy delete thread, and thanks :) It feels good to be a part, im in Orlando, FL

[walky_talky20]

Good photo. Now pan right a bit.

Don't take the manifold off. I was just suggesting taking photos that look through holes between the runners. To see the horrors that lie below.

Your situation is not unfixable. Just needs some love. And perhaps some cash.

[RastAudiA4]

Good photo. Now pan right a bit.

Don't take the manifold off. I was just suggesting taking photos that look through holes between the runners. To see the horrors that lie below.

Your situation is not unfixable. Just needs some love. And perhaps some cash.

ok yeah i knew i was getting into some tlc.

but heres what i got two pics a little right and one aerial and will snap some of runners soon.







3rd time's a charm?

[walky_talky20]

Nice work. Things I can tell from your photos:

- Looks like the PCV system under the manifold is intact and looks to be in surprisingly good repair.
- The OP has done 'the bad thing' and blocked off the PRV hard pipe. This 'seals' the crankcase during on-boost conditions. Bad news because that is when the system needs to vent the most. That's like me force-feeding you bean burritos for an hour with your butt taped shut. Just all around not a good idea. Something has to give in that scenario. And I used the good tape...
- The "L" hose at the far end of the intake manifold (last photo, the hose going from top center of frame to right center of frame) is original and very likely torn along in the inside of the 90 degree bend.

My suggestions:
1 - Figure out the DV situation. See what is going on at the lower charge pipe. You have to mount your DV there (the splitter if you want to keep that). You may have to come up with the plastic 90 and squiggly hose to do this.
2 - Uncap the PCV hard pipe. Connect that to a TIP-mounted PRV. Let those burritos breathe.
3 - Check out that "L" hose. Inspect for tears. Also check the "S" hose (1st photo in post #9, goes right under the braided steel oil line). Those like to tear sometimes as well.

Others will tell you to rip it all out and just vent to atmosphere. You can do that. That's a thing. But it's smelly and illegal and just does not reflect the classy Audi brand IMHO. The fresh air active circulation system that the PRV/PCV setup provides is superior to a simple vent system when it is operating correctly. It's better for the oil and your engine and the earth. Again, either way - it's up to you.

[alexvanlewen]

Excuse but it's that your splitter installed into your turbo inlet pipe?

[walky_talky20]

All the better to hear your with.

[RastAudiA4]

i think im going to finish the pcv sai etc, delete and save all those parts until i can find the rest because none came with the car, and it looks like i can still run a hose from the crankbreather to the tip when deleted so no stuffing me with burritos right?

Excuse but it's that your splitter installed into your turbo inlet pipe?

taking from this comment, i think i'll start at 1. Now by charge pipe, you mean IC pipe? and does it make a difference if i have a fmic? and not stock smic?
How do i go about installing this with the pcv delete and the bov splitter to recirc, i just can't find a good pic with it all installed I've already found what looks like the vacuum line that should
be at the top of the forge splitter.

[SquishyPanda]

I have a hunch that the original DV is still down where it's supposed to be, but possibly just to plug the hole in the hose to the crossover pipe, so no control line and recirc hose.

This is a pretty amazing piece of work, but it looks like it's surprisingly clean and well-maintained (given the apparent technical skill of the previous owner). I'm optimistic that this can be made roadworthy.

[GrapeBandit]

heres a post i made earlier in someone elses PVC thread. read through these. if you cant figure out how to do what you are looking for, theres no helping you! lol

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-Removal-guide
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...n-Question-AEB
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...e-removal-HELP
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...f-a-PCV-delete
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...Simplification

read these. all the info is in there

[walky_talky20]

i think im going to finish the pcv sai etc, delete and save all those parts until i can find the rest because none came with the car, and it looks like i can still run a hose from the crankbreather to the tip when deleted so no stuffing me with burritos right?

If you are going to run a "closed" PCV system, just leave the manifold connection so it works right. It will be easier this way anyway. All you need to do right now is A) get a piece of hose, and B) install a PRV into the TIP. Bam, your PCV system is done and working. "Deleting" any of it will just be more work and not add anything good to the vehicle. It looks like much of the PCV stuff is new, so just leave it there and use it.

And you're getting stuffed with burritos either way, mister. No two ways around that. ;)

Now by charge pipe, you mean IC pipe? and does it make a difference if i have a fmic? and not stock smic?
How do i go about installing this with the pcv delete and the bov splitter to recirc, i just can't find a good pic with it all installed I've already found what looks like the vacuum line that should be at the top of the forge splitter.

1) Charge = Boost. Yes, the intercooler pipe.
2) Yes it makes a difference if you have a FMIC, because the factory turbo outlet hose is probably long gone. So the provisions for DV installation are also gone. Don't you love modded cars?
3) The splitter valve goes to atmosphere and recirc (hence the word 'splitter'). The bottom connects to the boost (yo!) and the side connects to the Turbo Inlet Pipe (TIP for short).
4) A good pic of it installed, you ask? With factory hoses used it ends up vertical, "standing" atop the turbo outlet hose and very close the fan. Once the factory hoses are gone, then you have build a solution. Good luck, you have to make that crap happen. Again, much love for modded cars.

I have a hunch that the original DV is still down where it's supposed to be, but possibly just to plug the hole in the hose to the crossover pipe, so no control line and recirc hose.

I doubt it. I think the factory turbo outlet hose is gone along with the factory DV. Crossover pipe is no longer being used due to ebay Front Mount Intercooler. Fixing other people's half done, hacked projects is always tons of fun. Especially when they had less than no idea what they were doing.

This is a pretty amazing piece of work, but it looks like it's surprisingly clean and well-maintained (given the apparent technical skill of the previous owner). I'm optimistic that this can be made roadworthy.

Agree.

Anyone else think it looks like the oil line heat shield is missing? The oil line looks new, probably installed with the K04. Would be good to have the heat shield in place so it doesn't coke up. More on the list of little pieces to track down, that the PO threw in the garbage can.

But hey, the plastic engine cover is *color matched yellow*. So that makes up for a lot.

[SquishyPanda]

I doubt it. I think the factory turbo outlet hose is gone along with the factory DV. Crossover pipe is no longer being used due to ebay Front Mount Intercooler. Fixing other people's half done, hacked projects is always tons of fun. Especially when they had less than no idea what they were doing.

Ah ok missed the FMIC.

Did this thing get home under its own power?

[walky_talky20]

It just occurred to me that we are assuming the turbo outlet is even *hooked up* to something.

I cannot assume anything about this car. I can't be sure there are wheels unless OP takes a picture of them.

[RastAudiA4]

3) The splitter valve goes to atmosphere and recirc (hence the word 'splitter'). The bottom connects to the boost (yo!) and the side connects to the Turbo Inlet Pipe (TIP for short).
4) A good pic of it installed, you ask? With factory hoses used it ends up vertical, "standing" atop the turbo outlet hose and very close the fan. Once the factory hoses are gone, then you have build a solution. Good luck, you have to make that crap happen. Again, much love for modded cars.

so the splitter needs to be installed on the side port to the tip like in the pic in post #1 except for it needs to be on the port closest to the fan in white, and the hose outlined
in red needs to be hooked up to my boost side ic pipe, because i doubt there's a turbo outlet pipe but i will get under it tomorrow and see whats going on. but basically that is the correct setup?
and the pcv hard line runs to the prv on the tip port where the splitter is currently installed?

Did this thing get home under its own power?

the shock of you all makes me not want to drive this thing, but i did make it home fine, boosted, and chirped with my fluttery bov

I cannot assume anything about this car. I can't be sure there are wheels unless OP takes a picture of them.

here's a pic, but try not to flame, havn't had a chance to add my taste yet, going to clean it up real nice, and the paint is good for 14ys, brilliant yellow was a plus for me, and pfff those wheels...

[SquishyPanda]

but i did make it home fine, boosted, and chirped with my fluttery bov

Now I'm really curious about the turbo plumbing. I mean, more curious than I was before, which was pretty curious.

[RastAudiA4]

ok so i figured out whats going on under the car. The IC pipe is just connected straight to the turbo outlet pipe (just a rubber hose staight to ic pipe to turbo outlet) with the maf on the tip and the tip to the turbo inlet, and with the forge splitter sitting on the tip.

the fmic is an ebay fmic and doesn't have any place to put the splitter on the charge pipe. for those of you with custom or universal piping where did you put your splitter/or come up with a way to install it? is there a place that's on the outlet pipe?

[walky_talky20]

so the splitter needs to be installed on the side port to the tip like in the pic in post #1 except for it needs to be on the port closest to the fan in white, and the hose outlined
in red needs to be hooked up to my boost side ic pipe, because i doubt there's a turbo outlet pipe but i will get under it tomorrow and see whats going on. but basically that is the correct setup?
and the pcv hard line runs to the prv on the tip port where the splitter is currently installed?

Yes, side port to TIP.
You can use whatever ports on the TIP you want. Whatever fits best. But the usual setup is the DV "dump" connecting to that far port nearest the turbo inlet, yes.
Yes, bottom port of the splitter gets the BOOST yo.
PCV hard line to PRV. PRV is installed in the TIP directly. This is the PRV.

the shock of you all makes me not want to drive this thing, but i did make it home fine, boosted, and chirped with my fluttery bov

It is really not fit for driving in it's current condition. It's setup perfectly to blow out a rear main seal. We haven't even talked about what software is on this thing.

here's a pic, but try not to flame, havn't had a chance to add my taste yet, going to clean it up real nice, and the paint is good for 14ys, brilliant yellow was a plus for me, and pfff those wheels...

So it does have wheels. Great. No judgement. I mean, you're still recovering from those burritos. Despite my usual distaste for black wheels, they are not terrible on that car. Facelift yellow A4's are not very common. Looks good.

ok so i figured out whats going on under the car. The IC pipe is just connected straight to the turbo outlet pipe (just a rubber hose staight to ic pipe to turbo outlet) with the maf on the tip and the tip to the turbo inlet, and with the forge splitter sitting on the tip.

the fmic is an ebay fmic and doesn't have any place to put the splitter on the charge pipe. for those of you with custom or universal piping where did you put your splitter/or come up with a way to install it? is there a place that's on the outlet pipe?

What you need is a hose coupler that has a 1" port coming out the side. A "T", if you will. Ebay can hook you up.

[RastAudiA4]

ah ok i get it now, intercept that t pipe between the charge pipe and the outlet pipe then splitter (pressure in side) on the one inch bung on the t hose then splitter side recirc port to tip,

and that takes care of #1? that should have my splitter recirculating correctly operational?

What you need is a hose coupler that has a 1" port coming out the side. A "T", if you will. Ebay can hook you up.

what would this be called generally if i look locally, ie auto zone. already tried T coupler T pipe, hopefully i won't have to wait for shipping

[walky_talky20]

Autozone will have exactly one shelf of this stuff. I doubt they will have what you need there, but you can look. I'd suggest you just buy the thing on ebay.

[RastAudiA4]

I'd suggest you just buy the thing on ebay.

sounds like a plan, i'll order the coupler and install it along with aluminum ic piping and update when i get the shipment

another quick question, I notice that the wastegate actuator has a line coming from it to the turbo, stock this is supposed to run to the n75 valve correct? is it safe to say that the n75 is also deleted? where is it's stock location so i can check?

[SquishyPanda]

The wastegate is not currently connected to any sort of boost controller?

[RastAudiA4]

The wastegate is not currently connected to any sort of boost controller?

I can only assume, what i know is that there is no MBC installed, but i got one with the car, and there is a vacuum port on the turbo with a line going to the wastegate actuator. thats what i know/see

[SquishyPanda]

Is there a boost gauge? Ideally one hooked up properly. Best-case scenario boost is just controlled by the wastegate spring. I'm just flabbergasted that the PO would bother upgrading the turbo and be completely clueless about everything else.

Now, there was a time before diverter valves and when turbos were regulated entirely by wastegate spring pressure, and that was the 70's. Was the previous owner an old guy with an old Saab in garage or something? :p

[Turbo_B5]

To quote someone just hit the "Reply With Quote" button on the bottom right of posts and post from there.

[xdewaynex]

Definitely sounds like you have a bit of a mess on your hands left from the previous owner. From the side pic of the car you posted, it looks good other than those side skirts.

[RastAudiA4]

Is there a boost gauge? Ideally one hooked up properly. Best-case scenario boost is just controlled by the wastegate spring. I'm just flabbergasted that the PO would bother upgrading the turbo and be completely clueless about everything else.

Now, there was a time before diverter valves and when turbos were regulated entirely by wastegate spring pressure, and that was the 70's. Was the previous owner an old guy with an old Saab in garage or something? :p

interesting, and yes there is a boost gauge, driving it home it was at 5lbs, i later learned that limp mode restricts boost to 5lbs, and since there was no MBC or N75 it should be at stock boost right? ~8lbs? so guessing it's in limp mode from all the bs. Today it wasn't getting boost at all though, i was messing around with the ic pipes earlier so maybe i caused it, i tightened only a few i could reach and tried it but no boost, only hit 5lbs in 4th and 5th gear but i did not WOT just enough to see boost and flutter, will get under it and tighten everything and wait for my new T Coupler

Definitely sounds like you have a bit of a mess on your hands left from the previous owner. From the side pic of the car you posted, it looks good other than those side skirts.

I agree my friend, hopefully i can overcome and enjoy my gorgeous new audi, Def ridding of the stickers, im just traumatized from the last few and badges, just so gooey

To quote someone just hit the "Reply With Quote" button on the bottom right of posts and post from there.

Lol took my a while to figure out what you where talking about, but by golly i think i got it...is there an easier way to qoute multple people at once? i just copy pasted it all and went advanced lol..

[SquishyPanda]

If the wastegate is running off just boost pressure, it's basically in permanent limp mode, relying on the wastegate spring to regulate boost. Stock wastegate spring gives way at 5psi.

[RastAudiA4]

If the wastegate is running off just boost pressure, it's basically in permanent limp mode, relying on the wastegate spring to regulate boost. Stock wastegate spring gives way at 5psi.

The PO prob had it hooked up to the MBC he gave me and left the n75 in electronically because i didn't get a code for it. The turbo was just bought, prob 3 weeks old now, and he said he was breaking it in, he prob thought removing the MBC would bring it back to stock..but i can install the MBC and run it at ~8lbs for break in correct? it has 2.5 increments (Turboxs)

[SquishyPanda]

I'm not too familiar with MBC. I'd use the N75 for now and get all the other plumbing sorted out first, especially the DV. You really don't want to be boosting more than 5psi without a DV.

[U_know_me]

I am wondering after reading all the crap the PO did if this was a BW turbo that he upgraded with?

[RastAudiA4]

question, i want to find out if the limp mode is caused by the n75 delete (plugged in)and no MBC installed, because i just boost to 5lbs. Is it safe to install the MBC to find out? also i thought to run an MBC it has to be parallel...?

I am wondering after reading all the crap the PO did if this was a BW turbo that he upgraded with?

how would i be able to tell?

[SquishyPanda]

I would wait until you get the DV and crankcase ventilation sorted before you turn up the boost. Your limp mode is being caused by a lack of other options to regulate boost. Limp mode in a car with the N75 and other widgets in place means the ECU cuts everything out of the loop, leaving it to a mechanical failsafe (the wastegate spring) to regulate boost at very low levels to prevent damage. So you're sort of in limp mode, but not because the ECU thinks something is wrong. You're in sort-of-limp-mode because the ECU can't do anything about boost levels since it can't control the wastegate actuator with the N75 bypassed.

[RastAudiA4]

You're in sort-of-limp-mode because the ECU can't do anything about boost levels since it can't control the wastegate actuator with the N75 bypassed.

ah, makes sense....just going to wait then....
you know i forgot to ask about the prv pipe, i've been looking at my pics and dif diagrams but still can't find it lol, did walky_talky20 or anyone else notice where it is capped in my early photos and mind pointing it out?

[walky_talky20]

1st photo in the thread, post #1. Top & Center of the photo there is a yellow question mark. This is the left-most yellow question mark in the photo. That question mark is associated with a highlight of an object that is plugging a 1-inch metal pipe. That is the pipe that should be connected to the PRV.

Squishy is right. Your ECU has absolutely no control of boost at the moment. If it wants more: it can't. If it wants less: it can't. It's just running off the spring right now. It's 5lbs all day. Every day.

Do NOT turn up the boost until you fix the breather system. I explained this with a fairly graphic burrito illustration. Having no diverter valve would be reason #2 not to turn up the boost. Heck, I wouldn't even be driving the thing right now. Flogging it around to see how much boost you get is really not a good idea right now.

Do you even have an air filter? I see none in the photos and as mentioned before, I am unable to assume anything.

[RastAudiA4]

ok i need to be cleared up, i thought the top hard pipe, that is curved downward toward my tip, was to be connected to the PRV, which would make this the prv hard pipe?? and what hard pipe is the one below the pipe that curves downward....bare with me im trying cram all this info about this new engine and learn all these lines

i want to just simplify it like you did in the diy and run a hose to the tip, going to add that 034 kit you mentioned to my order., instead of uncapping the pipe, can i remove the hard pipe and run a hose to the tip like your photo in the PCV refresh section of your DIY?

and yes there is a filter on the maf, just not in the picture ;)

EDIT: i followed the bottom hard pipe that was capped and i see it goes to the combi valve, does it matter that my engine is the ATW? could leave everything as it is and remove that hard pipe and connect a hose from the combi valve and run it to the tip?