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  1. #1
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 24 2012
    AZ Member #
    87141
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada

    Question Did control arms/Sway bar end links, now a popping when rocking steering?

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    Just had my control arms done at my local indy, and had my sway bar end links done in the last year.

    Noticed this week that im getting a popping when turning. I can turn the wheel 90 degrees back and forth and it pops on both sides, do you think its the Tie rod ends? or possibly the sway bar bushings? Anyone had this sound before and had it be the sway bushings?

    Any info would be great, I will take a vid later today and post if I get some time.

    151K fyi.

    Lower control arms were toast, and uppers still had some life in them.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 30 2007
    AZ Member #
    15283
    My Garage
    2014 Lexus IS350, 1988 Porsche 944, 2008 Porsche Boxster, 2001 Audi TT Quattro
    Location
    Greenville, SC

    I recently have a similar sound... I would describe it more like a knocking than a pop, but could be the same. In my case it was loose sway bar link bolts. One of the connections on a link attaches to the lower control arm and so maybe that's the problem?

  3. #3
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 24 2012
    AZ Member #
    87141
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada

    ah alright, ill re-check all the bolts. Anyone have a diagram of the Torque's everything should be at? (control arms, and the sway bar)

  4. #4
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 24 2012
    AZ Member #
    87141
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada

    Heres the vid, you can actually feel this pop in the floorboards, which leads me to believe sway bar bushings. (Since basically EVERYthing else is done)

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlpB...ature=youtu.be

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 30 2007
    AZ Member #
    15283
    My Garage
    2014 Lexus IS350, 1988 Porsche 944, 2008 Porsche Boxster, 2001 Audi TT Quattro
    Location
    Greenville, SC

    Quote Originally Posted by Tarrant View Post
    Heres the vid, you can actually feel this pop in the floorboards, which leads me to believe sway bar bushings. (Since basically EVERYthing else is done)

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlpB...ature=youtu.be
    For my b7 s4 the sway bar links were 40 nm + 1/4 turn. So technically if they were installed correctly and they're loose the bolts should be replaced.
    Tom
    2014 Lexus IS350 (present), 1988 Porsche 944 (present), 2008 Porsche Boxster (present), 2001 Audi TT Quattro (present), 2006 Audi S4 (past), 1998 Audi A4 (past), 1975 Audi Fox (past)

  6. #6
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 24 2012
    AZ Member #
    87141
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada

    Ill check mine tomorrow afternoon - thanks for the info man - Should there be ANY play in the sway bar bushings? or none at all? Going to check those too - anyone have the torque specs on those bolts also?

  7. #7
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 18 2012
    AZ Member #
    86845
    Location
    Pembroke pines, Florida

    my car dose the same thing and can not find what is causing it.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 24 2012
    AZ Member #
    87141
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada

    I can push the car when its sitting, against the front end, and I can hear it popping underneath, I am quite sure its the Sway bar bushings so I already ordered new ones - along with Tie rod ends just in case.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 24 2012
    AZ Member #
    87141
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada

    So found the source of the problem - turns out I had a subframe bolt fall out.. dont know how that happens coughshopsfaultcough but bought a new one. Anyone have the torque specs of the main 4 on the subframe in the front end?

  10. #10
    Senior Member Three Rings z06psi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 25 2012
    AZ Member #
    95831
    My Garage
    2002 Corvette Z06
    Location
    Hawaii

    Quote Originally Posted by Tarrant View Post
    So found the source of the problem - turns out I had a subframe bolt fall out.. dont know how that happens coughshopsfaultcough but bought a new one. Anyone have the torque specs of the main 4 on the subframe in the front end?
    I think I have the same thing. Can I get a picture?
    2008 S6
    2002 Z06 (6.7L with twin turbo coming)
    2005 Navigator
    2001 Prelude

  11. #11
    Senior Member Three Rings z06psi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 25 2012
    AZ Member #
    95831
    My Garage
    2002 Corvette Z06
    Location
    Hawaii

    Never mind. Put the car in the air and tightened the subframe bolts and the mounts. Wow there were some loose ones in that bunch. Noise is 90% eliminated. I can hear just a little bit now. Are there bushings in there as well?
    2008 S6
    2002 Z06 (6.7L with twin turbo coming)
    2005 Navigator
    2001 Prelude

  12. #12
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 24 2012
    AZ Member #
    87141
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada

    I feel like tightening the bolts should be a regular maintenance type thing haha. Im doing everything now.

    There are bushings in there. I asked the price at my dealer and they were 120ish each. I tightened everything up aswell but i still have a small knock occasionally. How do I check my strut mounts to see if those are shot? Anyone have the torque specs for the strut mounts?

  13. #13
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 11 2014
    AZ Member #
    281972
    Location
    Phoenix

    So I'm debating between these two kits for when I do my control arms. Car has 112k miles and so far everything is in pretty good shape with the exception of some dried out, slightly torn bushings.

    One kit contains absolutely everything including upper and lower arms, sway bar end links and tie rod ends ($750), while the other only contains upper control arms ($360). What are the general thoughts about doing the full kit versus just the upper control arms? I believe the more worn out bushings are in the upper control arms. I'm sure labor wouldn't be that much different in cost which makes me lean toward doing the full kit but looking to save money where possible. Eager to hear people's thoughts/experiences.

    http://www.europaparts.com/control-a...-c6-meyle.html

    http://www.europaparts.com/control-a...-meyle-hd.html
    Current DD - 2015 Golf R #333

    Prior - 1990 Volvo 740, 1996 Volvo 850, 2004 Volvo S40, 2004 Volvo V70R, 2007 Volkswagen GLI, 2010 A6 Avant 3.0T, 2014 Subaru Forester XT

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 03 2014
    AZ Member #
    279997
    My Garage
    2014 Audi Q7 Premium Plus, 2014 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro S-Line
    Location
    Ellicott City, MD

    I'm relatively new to maintenance on my '05 A6, but I've been working on B5 Passats for over a decade and they have very similar front ends. The upper control arms tend to wear out much quicker than the lowers. OTOH, if you haven't changed out the lowers it will probably pay to do the entire kit.

  15. #15
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 24 2012
    AZ Member #
    87141
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada

    When it comes to suspension - If you leave worn parts they are only going to wear your new parts quicker. I would spend the money now on replacing the whole suspension. Its only a matter of time before the bottoms need to be done - I was at 140k and I could wiggle the ball joins with my pinky. I do drive my car a little harder than most, but I would imagine that most cars around 100k already have a good amount of wear on the joints.

    You could always pay a shop a quick 30 mins labor to tell you if the bottoms are done too.

  16. #16
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 24 2012
    AZ Member #
    87141
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada

    Just an FYI - I bought all my parts off ebay and saved a significant amount. I was able to get all the components for a combined 450$ish. Well worth your time to look online. If you are worried about manufacturer, lots of stores will provide you details of who made the parts they are selling. I ran into a lot of lemforder and Meyle parts.

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 03 2014
    AZ Member #
    279997
    My Garage
    2014 Audi Q7 Premium Plus, 2014 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro S-Line
    Location
    Ellicott City, MD

    Blauparts has a complete kit for about $556 from an Italian OEM manufacturer.

    http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail....A1112%2D02%2DA

  18. #18
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 11 2014
    AZ Member #
    281972
    Location
    Phoenix

    Quote Originally Posted by Tarrant View Post
    Just an FYI - I bought all my parts off ebay and saved a significant amount. I was able to get all the components for a combined 450$ish. Well worth your time to look online. If you are worried about manufacturer, lots of stores will provide you details of who made the parts they are selling. I ran into a lot of lemforder and Meyle parts.
    Do did you buy all the parts separately as opposed to a kit? Because I've spent some time on EBAY and the only "kits" I could find were cheap Chinese junk around $400 or less. My research has lead me to sticking with Meyle HD, Lemforder, or TRW. Meyle seems to be the cheapest of the bunch so that's what I'll probably go with. The Italian manufactured OCAP arms sold by Blauparts I have read are also substandard to OEM quality. Thanks for looking out though everyone!
    Current DD - 2015 Golf R #333

    Prior - 1990 Volvo 740, 1996 Volvo 850, 2004 Volvo S40, 2004 Volvo V70R, 2007 Volkswagen GLI, 2010 A6 Avant 3.0T, 2014 Subaru Forester XT

  19. #19
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 24 2012
    AZ Member #
    87141
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada

    I had to buy a little bit of it separate. I got 3 of the 4 Control arms per side in a kit (220 for bottom 2, and 1 of top) tops were 120 for remaining 1, tie rod ends were 60$, and end links and bushings were 60$

    got most of my stuff from this guy

    http://www.ebay.ca/sch/carsteering/m...84.m1439.l2654

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 03 2014
    AZ Member #
    279997
    My Garage
    2014 Audi Q7 Premium Plus, 2014 Audi A4 2.0T Quattro S-Line
    Location
    Ellicott City, MD

    Quote Originally Posted by brekdown29 View Post
    Do did you buy all the parts separately as opposed to a kit? Because I've spent some time on EBAY and the only "kits" I could find were cheap Chinese junk around $400 or less. My research has lead me to sticking with Meyle HD, Lemforder, or TRW. Meyle seems to be the cheapest of the bunch so that's what I'll probably go with. The Italian manufactured OCAP arms sold by Blauparts I have read are also substandard to OEM quality. Thanks for looking out though everyone!
    Just curious as to where you read about the OCAP parts being inferior to OEM, especially since Blauparts lists them as an OEM supplier to several car manufacturers. I know nothing about them, which is why I'm asking. I've used Meyle, Febi-Bilstein, and a kit from FCP Euro on my Passat so I'm anxious to find a good source for a set of Audi control arms that won't break the bank. The thing that irks me with Audi parts is that they're essentially the same as the ones on my VW yet they cost upwards of 3-4 times as much.

    What's funny is that I did a search on OCAP control arms and found multiple comparisons between them, Meyle, Lemforder, and Febi-Bilstein. While I didn't exactly read any glowing reports about the OCAPs, the opinions about Meyle vs. Febi-Bilstein were quite interesting. Some people thought the Febis were better and some thought the Meyles were better than the Febis. Lemforders sound like the best overall. I have personally used both Meyle and Febi-Bilsteion and found the Febis to last much longer than the Meyles. In fact, my experience with Meyle parts in general is that they're not all they're cracked up to be. They do tend to be reasonably priced, but I'd prefer a different brand in most cases.
    Last edited by captain_video; 09-17-2014 at 07:00 AM.

  21. #21
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 24 2012
    AZ Member #
    87141
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada

    So I figured out that my Subframe bushings are basically ALL shot (in the front end) ive read that this is a common problem for the 4.2. How long can I wait to replace the bushings? Is this a serious issue I should be fixing right away? Any techs that can chime in? I just dont want to wait too long and have my subframe fall off...

  22. #22
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 24 2012
    AZ Member #
    87141
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada

    Talked to Audi - they said its not SUPER important, but I am doing them asap anyways cause I hate worrying about noises.

    FYI - The subframe bolts are 1 TIME USE - so if you have taken yours out you cannot put it back in without it eventually falling out on its own.

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Three Rings AndreNY's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 06 2005
    AZ Member #
    6000
    Location
    Boston MA

    I just did the whole front end on my car (original Arms) and i'm experiencing the popping noises when I turn the wheel or go over some bumps, Never heard of Subframe bushings going bad on any Audi, but I will have to double check those. im thinking o doing Upper Strut Mounts and Sway Bar bushings as well

  24. #24
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 24 2012
    AZ Member #
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    Location
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada

    I did the sway bar end links - i have the bushings but havent installed them.

    If I was you I would take a look at the subframe - my bushings were cracked so they shifted. It was very... random. It wasnt always a big bump that made noise. You will be able to feel the clunk in your feet if its the subframe - Try rocking your car when its parked - it helped me locate the sound (needed a buddy to put head down to listen to where it came from)

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