Bad wheel bearing with no play in wheel?

**naiku** · 08-18-2014 06:15 AM

Last Friday on the way to work I noticed a growling type of sound coming from what appeared to be my front left wheel, figured it was likely a wheel bearing, or bad CV. The noise starts around 40 and gets a little louder based on speed, makes no difference if braking/coasting or on the throttle. I also pushed it through some turns that I can take around 40-45 or so and the noise clearly gets louder on left turns.

So, I get home and jack up the front end and check both front wheels for play, but cannot feel anything. I also removed the wheels and checked the CV boots which all looked good. At that point I checked the back wheels just to rule those out, and again no play there either.

Tires are fairly new and all in good shape, tire pressure is good, it is definitely a rotating type of sound but not like a typical wooing sound that bad wheel bearings are described as.

Thanks.

**fly300kts** · 08-18-2014 06:20 AM

When going bad, the bearings will make noise first and they will start to wear internally and develop play

Phil

**moyenecorniche** · 08-18-2014 07:16 AM

The bearings in our cars are sealed and pressed in. It's a different design than the conically shaped roller bearings that have been in use for decades and still used in many american brands.
Difference being. Less stress exerted on Audi's design.
I have had bearings wear out and those are the symptoms. You do not want to wait until there is free play in the wheels. Replace both front bearings, since if one is bad the other will also begin to fail sooner than later. It's a pretty simple DIY if you have the tools but if not find an independent shop to do it immediately.

**jdd** · 08-18-2014 02:10 PM

I may be having a similar issue. I hear a low frequency 'whirring' sound when I drive on highways. Sounds like it's coming from the front right. Wheel has no play at all. My gas mileage has also gone to sh*t around the same time that I began to notice this noise. I'm pretty sure I read once of someone having the same issue and it turned out to be a functionally defective dv (but not torn), though I can't find it again despite my best efforts.

**naiku** · 08-18-2014 03:51 PM

Originally Posted by fly300kts

When going bad, the bearings will make noise first and they will start to wear internally and develop play

Phil

Originally Posted by moyenecorniche

The bearings in our cars are sealed and pressed in. It's a different design than the conically shaped roller bearings that have been in use for decades and still used in many american brands.
Difference being. Less stress exerted on Audi's design.
I have had bearings wear out and those are the symptoms. You do not want to wait until there is free play in the wheels. Replace both front bearings, since if one is bad the other will also begin to fail sooner than later. It's a pretty simple DIY if you have the tools but if not find an independent shop to do it immediately.

Thanks both, should I also look to replace the hub? or just the bearing? The reason I bring up the hub is a few months ago I hit something pretty hard on the highway (bent the heck out of a wheel). Could the hub have also been damaged which led to the bearing failing? or since I am at 155k is it more likely the bearings are just wearing out? Is there any way to check the hub for damage? Obviously if the hub needs to be replaced the cost jumps from around $100 up to almost $350 or so.

**fly300kts** · 08-18-2014 03:53 PM

You should have told us the complete story in first place
Don't take any risk replace the assembly

Phil

**moyenecorniche** · 08-18-2014 07:22 PM

Bearings are about 100,000 miles depending on driving stresses. So those should be replaced on both sides at the same time.
So you hit something hard enough to destroy a wheel and for months you never checked on collateral damage. ???

Question is what else did you damage ? I would look into replacing both sides, bearings and hubs and possibly look into control arms and inner / outer tie rods.
( at the very least inspect closely )
I think a complete Tie-rod upper / lower control arm kit is less than $600 or about. throw in bearings and hubs and you should be around $1,000 in parts give or take.
Sounds expensive but not if you take into context a suspension component failing while at freeway speeds..

The TR and control arm kit is something I'm looking into soon.

**Muggerrudd** · 08-19-2014 04:06 AM

Originally Posted by fly300kts

When going bad, the bearings will make noise first and they will start to wear internally and develop play

Phil

where can i order the hub and bearing assembly? I have started to experience this noise also while driving on the HWY between 60-70mph

**allstock** · 08-19-2014 04:18 AM

You need to replace the old bearing by removing it off your existing hub. Check the diys

**fly300kts** · 08-19-2014 04:23 AM

Originally Posted by Muggerrudd

where can i order the hub and bearing assembly? I have started to experience this noise also while driving on the HWY between 60-70mph

http://www.europaparts.com/wheel-hub-4b0407613b.html
http://www.europaparts.com/wheel-bea...e0498625b.html

Phil

**moyenecorniche** · 08-19-2014 04:28 AM

Muggerrudd, other than the dealership, there's vendors on A-zine that will have your OEM parts. Although this is not an easy DIY if you don't have the tools, since ehte bearings are pressed in they need to be reinstalled in the same manner with a tool that will press them back in evenly. I can think of a couple options but it sounds at this point that you need to have either someone whose familiar with this ( at the very least help you ) or take it to a reputable indie shop.
Hub and bearings are not one assembly, they are separate.

**fly300kts** · 08-19-2014 04:42 AM

Originally Posted by moyenecorniche

Muggerrudd, other than the dealership, there's vendors on A-zine that will have your OEM parts. Although this is not an easy DIY if you don't have the tools, since ehte bearings are pressed in they need to be reinstalled in the same manner with a tool that will press them back in evenly. I can think of a couple options but it sounds at this point that you need to have either someone whose familiar with this ( at the very least help you ) or take it to a reputable indie shop.
Hub and bearings are not one assembly, they are separate.

As far as I know there is no need to press the bearing in place on the front axle.
The bearing housing is hold into position with 4 screws. Once replaced, use the axle to slide the hub into place.
It's about an hour job

Again

http://www.europaparts.com/wheel-hub-4b0407613b.html
http://www.europaparts.com/wheel-bea...e0498625b.html

Phil

**Muggerrudd** · 08-19-2014 04:54 AM

Originally Posted by fly300kts

http://www.europaparts.com/wheel-hub-4b0407613b.html
http://www.europaparts.com/wheel-bea...e0498625b.html

Phil

are you able to purchase them pressed together?

**fly300kts** · 08-19-2014 04:55 AM

Originally Posted by Muggerrudd

are you able to purchase them pressed together?

Look at the link, yes

Phil

**moyenecorniche** · 08-19-2014 05:08 AM

Originally Posted by fly300kts

As far as I know there is no need to press the bearing in place on the front axle.
The bearing housing is hold into position with 4 screws. Once replaced, use the axle to slide the hub into place.
It's about an hour job

Again

http://www.europaparts.com/wheel-hub-4b0407613b.html
http://www.europaparts.com/wheel-bea...e0498625b.html

Phil

My bad, as if I recall the design changed for the better from the B6 to B7

**allstock** · 08-19-2014 05:08 AM

Perhaps I'm not reading correctly. The bearing and hub is never sold pressed on together for the front. I've done both front and rear and the bearings need to be pressed. They are different procedures.

The assembly is attached to the spindle and is screwed on by the bearing(front) housing for b6+b7.

The b8 has all four same bearings.

**moyenecorniche** · 08-19-2014 05:10 AM

Originally Posted by Muggerrudd

are you able to purchase them pressed together?

Originally Posted by fly300kts

Look at the link, yes

Phil

Definitely have someone do this for you.. Save yourself some puzzling questions.

**fly300kts** · 08-19-2014 05:12 AM

Originally Posted by allstock

Perhaps I'm not reading correctly.

Phil

**fly300kts** · 08-19-2014 05:12 AM

Originally Posted by allstock

Perhaps I'm not reading correctly. The bearing and hub is never sold pressed on together. I've done both front and rear and the bearings need to be pressed. They are different procedures.

The assembly is attached to the spindle and is screwed on by the bearing(front) housing for b6+b7.

The b8 has all four same bearings.

The bearing and hub is never sold pressed on = CORRECT
The assembly is attached to the spindle and is screwed on by the bearing(front) housing for b6+b7 = CORRECT

Phil

**naiku** · 08-19-2014 05:28 AM

Originally Posted by moyenecorniche

So you hit something hard enough to destroy a wheel and for months you never checked on collateral damage. ???

No, I checked everything on the front end more than once, and also had a shop take a look. The only remaining issue I had after fixing the wheel (replaced all the wheels/tires) was a vibration that went away after I tried a different set of hub centric rings. There was no visible damage to anything, an alignment held fine etc. The bearing only started making noise this past Friday, up until that point the car had been fine. There is no visible damage to the hub, but I figured it worth bringing up after my initial post in case there was some hidden issue causing the bearing to wear faster despite them also being high mileage.

Originally Posted by fly300kts

The bearing and hub is never sold pressed on = CORRECT
The assembly is attached to the spindle and is screwed on by the bearing(front) housing for b6+b7 = CORRECT

It's a shame they are not sold pressed together, it looks like some do come as a kit, just not for the B7. Everything I have read indicates that they do need to be pressed together, but if that is not the case that at least makes the job a little easier.

**fly300kts** · 08-19-2014 05:35 AM

Originally Posted by naiku

It's a shame they are not sold pressed together, it looks like some do come as a kit, just not for the B7

Can't be sold pressed together: the bearing assy is installed from the rear of the knuckle and the hub from the front

Phil

**moyenecorniche** · 08-19-2014 06:56 AM

Bearings don't wear out at the same time. many factors such as which side of the car is under stress more often from turning, road surface that is convex etc.
All the little factors in everyday driving contribute but this is like splitting hairs while suffering from OCD.

Just replace both sides and although the rears generally have a longer lifespan, why not do those while the car is up and ready.

**allstock** · 08-19-2014 07:14 AM

The bearing and hub once mated together are installed from the front/outside. The bolts start through the spindle side.

Actually they can be sold assembled together, but just aren't.

**fly300kts** · 08-19-2014 07:20 AM

Originally Posted by allstock

The bearing and hub once mated together are is installed from the front/outside. The bolts start through the spindle side.

Actually they can be sold assembled together, but just aren't.

yup