Finally stages of engine removal?

[BirdTurbo]

So again what is the easiest method of removing the engine, tranny and engine or just engine. If so, when I do remove the tranny will there be enough clearance to let the axles drop? What will I have to remove? Also I pretty much got everything disconnected but the motor mounts and engine to tranny bolts (the tranny mounts and axles if this way is easier).

[Mad Cow]

For the 1.8t pulling just the motor is a piece of cake and lining it back up again afterwards is pretty easy. The 2.8 is a pain and probably easier to pull with the trans attached.

[BirdTurbo]

Just the engine eh? Lowering sub frame a bit is order I guess.

[Mad Cow]

No need to lower the subframe either way, at least I never did.

[Corrado_Guy]

You don't have to lower the sub-frame either way with the 1.8T, not sure about a V6. I pulled mine out with the transmission attached because I had a bunch of things I wanted to do and it was kind of a pain. I have a 3" down pipe so there was a lot of wiggling to get it all out and hopefully I can get back in there again. As long as you have the assembly level on the engine jack it is not too bad.

What is the plan? Why are you taking the motor out?

[BirdTurbo]

I'm doing a engine swap since my engine bit the dust on cylinder 3. Also will those thick bolts from ace hardware will do the trick on holding the engine up with the hoist.

By level do you mean engine stand? I have everything but a engine stand lol? Our garage is quite small so we had to rotate the car diagonally to take advantage of the space. Another factor in not getting one.

I wish someone lived close by that could help.

[Mad Cow]

You talking about putting a bolt through the lifting hooks and lifting with that? That's perfectly fine, the 1.8t is light enough to be carried around by 2 people, you don't even need a thick bolts, I use whatever random old bolt I find first. If this is your first time I'd invest in a levelling attachment for the hoist, otherwise you'll have a hell of a time lining up the engine and trans when you put it back together.

[BirdTurbo]

Thanks so far!

I got one those anyway!

[Rodgman15]

I pulled the motor and trans together so I didn't have to fight with trans bolts underneath the car. Service position, undo the axles and driveshaft, trans and engine mounts, and unhook the ecu and bam, lifted er right out the front.

But then again I'm kinda lazy ;)

Sent from my HTC One

[nynoah]

There is a 3rd method.

Unbolt the subframe and top suspension towers and drop the whole unit down. That tends to be more common with the 2.7 crowd. No reason we can't do it either. 3 bolts up on the top shock mounts, then all subframe points, remove the brake lines and pop the steering rack knuckles too, and all the others standard stuff.

Depending on what you are doing and what tools you have (lift) it is a good option for some.

[GrapeBandit]

you dont need to disconnect axles to remove the engine. the axles are bolted to the trans.
dont drop the subframe, no need to. just remove front end, unbolt everything and pull it straight out.

its really not complicated at all

[Seerlah]

Pulled mine on ramps with an engine hoist. Also swapped my tranny out couple months back by placing car on stands, and dropping the tranny from underneath. Both not difficult. Part that will give you difficulty is getting the spline of the tranny input shaft to slide into the clutch assembly. Even though things may line up, it won't necessarily just slide right in. At this point you can use longer m14x1.75 bolts on the top two corners of the engine to bell housing and slowly bring the two together (all things lined up). There should be little to no torque necessary to bring the two together. If there is, then there is an issue and you should stop with that method.

Pics for reference



This was with my engine build, and I opted to place the short block in by itself first then placed the head on while shor block was in the car. I found this easier for me, while others find putting everything in at once easier.

[BirdTurbo]

Well I got the engine out but the clutch is attached to the fly wheel. How do I get this out without screwing things up as I got only new bolts for the changing of the fly wheel and nothing else. Will it pop right off or should I have bought specialty tools and new bolts?

[Corrado_Guy]

The bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel can be re-used so there should be no problems there. There are 6 bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel, remove them and the clutch will come right off.

[GrapeBandit]

^what he said. pressure plate to flywheel bolts can be reused since they are not TTY (torque to yeild), but flywheel to crank are TTY and arent supposed to he reused but many ppl have.

[BirdTurbo]

Well I broke more shit in the process of putting the engine back.

What is the best method of fixing this wire and connector for oil cooler. Can I just use another connector from like autozone or can I just pry this one open and put wire in. Also I just fixed this wire earlier as about inch from the base the wire ripped in half and I mended the wires? What is the best way to fix this also what gauge is this?

[walky_talky20]

That is the oil pressure switch wire. It is not very critical. Fix it however you like. As long as it's hooked up in some reliable manner, you are good. The wire size is not critical either. Just hook it up and call it done.

General wire mending advice:
Because this is in the engine bay, it would be best if your connection and repair were protected from dirt/water/salt/etc. Either solder and heat shrink tubing, or a marine-grade heat shrink crimp (butt connector). And the factory boot that was on there to cover the switch connection. This one:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site..._867/ES422781/

[BirdTurbo]

I got the boot still but thanks anyway!

[BlueBoostedAudi]

I would call the junkyard and buy the plug and do what ^ he said

[Mad Cow]

No need to use an OEM plug, mine broke and I replaced it in all of 5 minutes with a regular female spade connector. It's a couple mm too big but holds just fine.