B6 1.8T Oil Pan Removal/Install DIY

[Toolaa]

Oil pan removal DIY – B6 A4

Overview
Last year while attempting to resolve a sporadic low oil pressure warning light problem. I decided that it would be necessary to drop the oil pan and inspect/replace the pickup screen. At that time I had trouble finding a very clear DIY on exactly how to approach the job. I was considering having a local mechanic who works on our company vehicles do the job for $600 plus parts. Here is a link to some of my original post back when I first got the car. LINK

However before going that route I wanted to really consider doing the job myself. I felt that I could put that $600 towards upgrading some tools in my garage and learn some valuable information about my car. So, after extensive Audizine and other internet searches I ended up relying on the repair manual and three other sources for the information that convinced me that I could do the job myself.

B6 A4 Oil Pan DIY by JPC1.8T – Audizine LINK
Good start with a lot if info but missing a few photos

Lower Sub-Frame DIY fr - Audiforum.ca LINK
Provided a few more photos on the process but overall a very dangerous way of doing the job

Oil Pump DIY 2000 1.8t ATW Tiptronic – PasatWorld LINK
This is good diy except it's for B5 model

So now I’ve removed and re-installed he pan twice in one year. This DIY is my way of paying back the community. If you can change the timing belt you can probably tackle this job. Plan for about 6-8 hours for your first time doing it.


Applications
This DIY will apply directly to Audi A4 B6 Platform From 2002 thru 2005 with 1.8T AMB engine, but it also has many similarities to the B5 from 1995 thru 2002 and the Passat B5.5 Platform with other 1.8T engines.
There are a number of reasons why you may need to remove the oil pan:

• Damaged pan or stripped drain plug threads.
• Faulty pan seal leaking (There is no gasket on the AMB Engine)
• Replace windage tray
• Replace Oil Pickup Tube, Oil Pump, Oil Pump Chain or Guide
• Inspect (or possibly replace rod bearings)
• Inspect main bearings. (Note the #5 main bearing cap cannot be removed easily from below the car, as the clearance between the bolt head and the rear main seal flange does not appear to be enough to fit a heavy duty socket capable of applying the proper torque)

Parts
Required Parts - This is a list of the minimum items you will need just to remove and replace the pan

• 2 Sub-Frame Bolts M12x1.5x110 N90823501 (These are stretch bolts and must be replaced)
• 4 Sub-Frame Bolts M10x70 N90663002 (These are stretch bolts and must be replaced)
• 1 Turbo Oil Return Line Gasket 058145757A

Optional Parts – Since you are going this far you might as well consider the following items.

• Oil Pickup Tube (Sometimes this comes with the Pump) 06B115251
• Pickup Tube O-Ring 20x3.15 (May come with pickup tube) N0282222
• Oil Pump 06A115105B
• Oil Level Sensor O-Ring 038103196
• Windage Tray 06B103623P
• 20ea M7x21.5mm Hex Flange Bolts N90945002 to secure pan to engine and 2 to secure the pickup tube to the pump. (These bolts are reusable)
• 2ea M10x95mm Hex Flange Bolt N90628303 to secure the back of the oil pan to the block (These bolts are reusable)
• 3ea M10x45 N90648303 to secure the pan to the transmission (These bolts are reusable)
• Oil Pan Drain Plug M14x1.5 N90813202 but I strongly recommend a magnetic one like this LINK because of this LINK
• 4ea M8x22 N 90863801 used to secure the transmission mount to the transmission they are reusable but considering their location on the underside of the car they get pretty rusty
• 1ea Special T-Head M10x50 Transmission Mount Screw N90715501 For whatever reason my car had a standard M10 cap screw which just spun in place as I tried to remove the nut. Getting this screw will save you 10-15 min during reassembly. Every job has at least one “BITCH BOLT” this is the one.

Supplies
Required - There is only one supply item that you must have and that is the sealing adhesive used to seal the oil pan to the engine block.

• The OEM sealant that the dealer uses is white VAG P/N: D176404A2
• ECS Sells elring Dirko P/N: UN1253000
• I used Permatex 81160 Hi-Temp Red Form-A-Gasket Silicone Sealant. LINK After 1 year when I had to remove the pan a second time there were no signs of failure or leaks.

Other Recommended Supplies – Stuff I used that worked

• Engine Degreaser – I like Purple Power it’s cheap at Wal-Mart
• Brake Cleaner
• Gasket Remover Solvent
• Penetrating Oil – PB Blaster or similar
• Plastic and Brass cleaning brushes
• Plenty of Towels and Rags
• Black Spray Paint – used to mark sub-frame mounting bolts before removal
• Razor Blades – used to scrape mating surfaces of pan and engine
• Acetone or Isopropyl – used to prepare surfaces for gasket adhesive
• Blue Tape – I use it to mark all disconnected hoses and electrical connectors. This way when you are putting everything back together if you see a piece of blue tape hanging down somewhere it’s probably attached to a connector or hose that needs to be re-connected.
• Roll of Tin Foil – Wrap connectors and lines filled with oil, better than stuffing a rag or paper towel into the hole which can be easily forgotten during reassembly

Don’t forget new oil and filter….


Tools

• Basic Safety Equipment - Glasses/Goggles and Gloves
• Engine Support Bar - There are a lot of types out there and I have read discussions where people have even made their own using 2x6 lumber. I wouldn’t recommend that. After all you head and hands will be below the engine and in places where if a failure occurred you could be killed or severely injured. If you are going to do this get the right tool. I picked up one from Harbor Freight for about $69 after coupon. You can find them on Amazon too LINK. I copied Forcedfx’s design for the wood block lift the engine using two pieces of 2x4 18” long screwed together. The first time I used the bar I didn't and it was much more difficult to raise the engine high enough to clear the frame.
• You will also need something to secure the chains to the actual motor lifting points. I used 2”x3/8” bolts and washers
• Jack Stands and/or Ramps/Wheel Chocks – I backed the car onto ramps to raise the rear wheels so I could keep the parking brake secure then Lifted the front up onto jack stands. You could do this job only lifting up the front of the car on ramps or stands with wheel chocks, but it’s such a PITA to work under the car, every extra inch of clearance helps.
• 2 ton Floor Jack with at least 24” lift – Needed to get the car onto jack stands but you may also need it to provide a little extra lift on the engine.
• In addition to the usual complement of sockets, ratchets and wrenches You must have these items:
  
  ½” drive Breaker Bar and 18mm HD Socket or Impact Socket (6pt Recommended) to remove the sub-frame bolts
  ½” drive torque wrench that is capable of applying 110NM of Torque
  ¼” Drive M10 Socket with swivel and 6” Extension to remove the two rear oil pan screws near the transmission bell housing
• There are a few tools that you can do without but will be very helpful
  
  Hard Rubber Mallet
  Set of Metric Offset Wrenches LINK - Helps reach the 3 M10 bolts which hold the oil pan to the transmission
  Gasket Scraper
  Air powered impact wrench to remove the sub-frame bolts
• You will need a standard 2x4 piece of wood cut to about 48” length to wedge between the sub-frame mount and the body to force the sub-frame down to get the pan out. The metal frame bites into the wood and keeps it from slipping out and it won’t damage the frame of the car.

Preparation Steps
Before getting to the oil pan removal you need to get setup with some prep steps

• Get your car on ramps, stands or a lift whichever safe method is available to you.
• Disconnect the Battery. While lifting your engine you will be moving the positive wire from the frame which connects to the starter. So just be safe and disconnect it.
• Remove the plastic engine covers over the Valve Cover and if you have them, he air filter and power steering covers.
• Remove the belly pan.
• Move the Coolant Reservoir out or at least disconnect the sensor connector and twist it towards the front of the engine. (You need to do this to reach the upper left transmission mount bolt aka the Bitch Bolt)
• Drain the oil and remove the oil filter. (It’s best to work with a slightly warm engine to allow as much oil to drain out as quickly as possible)
• Remove the bumper cover and move the front radiator support into the Service Position. LINK
• Now that you can see everything that you will be working on, snap a dozen or so photos from under the car around the oil pan and sub frame. No DIY is perfect and it’s a good idea to have your own reference photos to see how everything was before you started removing stuff

Removal Process Steps
1 Securing the Engine with the support bar
1.01 Assemble and Position your engine support bar so that the horizontal beam is positioned just above Cylinder #2
1.02 Position the wooden block you made so that the rear threaded rod is hooked into the rear lifting eye of the motor.
1.03 The rear lifting eye is actually located under a removable black plastic bracket which holds the fuel line and a vacuum hose.
1.04 Lower the front threaded rod hook so that it’s about 3-4” above the front lifting eye.
1.05 The front lifting eye is located just in front of the fuel rail above the serpentine belt pulley. Your engine type should be stamped on the top. AMB in my case.
1.06 Secure the chain to the front lifting eye using 3/8”x2” threaded bolt and nut and attach the other end of the chain to the threaded lifting hook.
1.07 Tighten both the front and rear lifting rods until both have light tensions. Confirm that your wooden block is level on the support bar.
1.08 Apply a few more turns to both the front and rear lifting hooks until you can see the engine slightly lift up. Only lift about ¼” at this point because you are still attached to the motor mounts below.
1.09 If everything is correct your setup should look like this: (PHOTO 1)


2 Deciding on how to work around the A/C compressor (WARNING)
2.01 I found that some people have the A/C system drained professionally so that the A/C compressor line can be disconnected in order to get the pan out. This is by far the safest option. If you go this route be sure you have the R134a refrigerant professionally recovered DO NOT vent the gas to the atmosphere and DO NOT attempt to disconnect any compressor lines with pressurized refrigerant. If you do drain the refrigerant you must have it immediately refilled even if you do not use the A/C as you will destroy your compressor by running it without refrigerant.
2.02 You can still remove the pan without draining the refrigerant but you will need to disconnect the compressor from the engine mounting bracket and support the compressor with some wire and the ribbed belt as follows:
2.03 Remove the ribbed belt by compressing the tensioner. If you have never done this before check out this DIY LINK
2.04 Re-route the ribbed so the belt loops over top of the idler pulley and then down to the compressor. It will act as a sling for the compressor and keep the pressure off of the hoses once you remove the bolts. (FIG 1) (PHOTO 2)

2.05 Disconnect the electrical connector to the compressor and loosen the wire from the housing clip. (PHOTO 3)
2.06 Unclip the pipe which is attached to the plastic clip fastened to the oil pan. (Fig 2)

2.07 Remove the three bolts which hold the compressor to the engine bracket. (PHOTO 4)
2.08 Use a coat hanger or wire to also hold the compressor while working. This keeps stress off the compressor fittings and hoses. You can loosen the wire later when you actually have to lower the compressor a bit more to remove the pan. (PHOTO 4)



3 Remove Mounting Hardware
3.01 Remove the 3 M8 Cap Screws which secure Snub Mount Arm from the oil pan. (PHOTO 5)

3.02 Remove the 2 M6 Cap Screws which secure the turbo oil return flange to the oil pan. (PHOTO 6) Be prepared oil will drain from the line as soon as you disconnect it. Wrap the end of tube flange with Tinfoil because it will drip oil for hours while you are working down there.

3.03 Disconnect the Oil Level Sensor connector (PHOTO 6)

3.04 Remove the M7 Cap screw and clip which secures the Transmission Coolant Lines (PHOTO 7)

3.05 Remove the plastic clip which holds the A/C line (Sorry No Photo Mine’s missing, see Fig 2 above)
3.06 Disconnect the rubber hose from the Turbo Inlet outlet to the Charge Pipe which is the black metal tube which runs below the radiator. Again oil will leak from here when you disconnect the rubber hose. Have a pan underneath. It is totally normal to have about 1-2oz of oil drip out. If you have more like ½ cup then you may have a failing turbo on your hands. (PHOTO 8)
3.07 Remove the M8 Nuts from the bottom of the Motor Mount Studs on both the left and right side of the engine (PHOTO 9) (Fig 3)


3.8 Unclip the black plastic wire guide which holds the positive cable from the battery to the starter. You do not have to actually disconnect the wire. (PHOTO 10)
3.9 Locate the transmission mounts on either side of the transmission. (PHOTO 11) Each mount has a large bolt in the middle and two smaller M8x22 bolts on the sides. NOTE: My car is an automatic, but apparently the MT only has one bracket on the passenger side. Spray the bolts with penetrating oil and let them soak a few minutes. We’ll come back to them later.
3.10 Locate the rear sub-frame flanges there is one on each side of the transmission. (PHOTO 12) Loosen the two M10 bolts in the rear of the flange about ¼” DO NOT remove them. There is one M12 stretch bolt forwards the front that you will leave alone.

3.11 If your car has a leveling sensor there is a sensor arm attached to the lower passenger side control arm. Manual says to un-clip this. I don’t have this option on my car so I’m not sure exactly. (Fig 4)

3.12 Locate the Front Sub-Frame flanges they are attached to the sway bar. (PHOTO 13) DON’T REMOVE ANY BOLTS YET! This is also from Forcedfx’s Passat World DIY. He realized that once you remove these 6 bolts you can mess up the front end alignment of the car. He suggested later in the DIY that if you spray paint the heads of the bolts you would be able to see exactly where the sub frame needs to be re-positioned when you put everything back together. So get out your spray can and lightly spray all 6 bolts and be sure the overspray covers the aluminum flange. You don’t have to go crazy here just enough to see the location when you are done.
3.13 Now you can loosen all 6 bolts. You will probably need your breaker bar for this part. After they are loose, you will notice the sub-frame may drop a little. Just make sure you head is not right under the frame. After you are sure the frame is not going to drop anymore, go ahead and remove all 6 bolts. When you’re done you can see the bolt pattern from the paint. (PHOTO 14)

3.14 Now go back to the transmission mount bolts. Loosen the bolts which are towards the rear of the car about 3/8” DO NOT remove these. Only remove the bolts towards the front of the car. (PHOTO A1


4 Raising the Engine
4.01 Before raising the engine just take one more double check to make sure you didn't miss any steps. While using the jack screws to raise the engine you can apply a lot of force and not notice right way if you are bending or twisting any attached components.
4.02 If you have not already done so, spray the jack screw threads with some PB Blaster or oil this will reduce he friction and make jacking the engine much easier.
4.03 Slowly turn the jack screws on the Engine Support Bar clockwise to raise the engine.
4.04 As you are raising the engine look for any sign that the engine is twisting the motor should come straight up and not twist clockwise or counter-clockwise. If it does then you forgot to remove something or there is a snag somewhere.
4.05 Keep an eye at towards the back of the engine where the EGR valve is located.
4.06 You should be able to raise the engine about 3” to the point where the front timing cover is at the same height as the top of the hood latch and the EGR valve should be almost touching the firewall. (PHOTO A2)


5 Unbolting the Oil Pan
5.01 Now that the engine is up you can start removing the bolts which secure the oil pan to the engine. (Fig 5)

5.02 There are 16 M7 bolts on the sides and front of the pan. Don’t use a hex wrench to remove them use a standard M10 socket. I have a small 3/8” drive air ratchet which really helps a lot, but a cordless drill with drive attachment works well too. (PHOTO A3) (Fig 5 #1-16)

5.03 There are also 2 M7 Bolts which secure the back of the pan to the Rear Main Seal. There are two windows in the transmission bell housing where you can access these bolts. (PHOTO 15, 16) (Fig 5 #17-18) DO NOT USE A BALL END HEX DRIVER to remove these. It’s best to use a ¼” drive 10mm socket with a swivel and extension. Also if you have some gum or wax coat the end of the socket because if you drop the bolt into the bell housing it could be very difficult to remove. NOTE: If your car has a newer rear main seal these two bolts may be different M6)


5.04 There are 2 M10 bolts on the rear sides of the pan which face up and attach to the engine block. They are hidden behind the sub-frame. (Fig 5 – Highlighted Yellow)
5.05 Next remove the 3 M10 bolts which secure the rear flange to the transmission bell housing. (PHOTO 17) (Fig 5 – Highlighted Blue)

5.06 Finally the BITCH BOLT (PHOTO 18)– We’ll it’s only a bitch if you engine was like mine.

I spent 10 min turning before I realized what was going on then another 20min trying to figure out how to get it out. This this is actually an M10 Nut on oil pan side with an M10x50 bolt coming from the transmission side through the bell housing. (Fig 5 – Highlighted Red) (Fig 6)

If your car is like mine the bolt is just a regular bolt and you will need to get a hex wrench onto the back side head in order to unthread the nut. (PHOTO 19)

This picture is taken from the underside of the car on the driver’s side. I have my left hand wedged in between the body and the transmission housing. My thumb is pressing on the head of the bolt which is NOT VISIBLE from any position or angle, but is located just above the TCU connector to the transmission. You can see the threads of the bolt and the nut on the upper right side. I ended up cutting a small Allen wrench to fit into the head of the bolt and let it rest against the flange to loosen the nut.
5.07 If you are lucky enough to have the T-Head bolt then it won’t spin in the hole and you will be able to simply unthread the nut. If you do not have the T-Head bolt buy one from ECS because it’s just as difficulty to reinstall the nut without it!

6 Detaching The Oil Pan
6.01 Before going further make sure you got all of the bolts out. 18ea M7, 2ea M10x95, 3ea M10x45 and 1ea M10 Nut
6.02 Now that all of the bolts are removed most people report that their pan is still firmly attached to the engine. The bond of silicone adhesive is very strong. Think about how glass aquariums are made. Usually it’s just silicone adhesive holding the glass panels together.
6.03 First try to use your rubber mallet to knock the pan loose. I found it best to hit the front right side where the snub mount was previously attached. If it sounds solid it’s still firmly attached. The moment it begins to sound hollow that’s when the silicone bond is starting to separate.
6.04 You may need to insert a putty knife between the flange and the block to try and wedge the pan from the block. DO NOT USE a chisel or screw driver because you will likely damage the mating surface of the pan.
6.05 There are a few places towards the rear of the pan just below the oil filter where there is about a 1mm gap between the pan flange and the block. I used this area to try and force the pan off too without damaging the mating surface.
6.06 Once the pan seal breaks loose it will fall onto the sub-frame cross member. You are almost there!

CONTINUED ON PAGE TWO

[Toolaa]

CONTINUED FROM PAGE ONE

7 Removing the Pan
7.01 Insert your 2x4 between the sub-frame bracket and the body. Be sure not to press on or bend the transmission cooler lines. (Photo 20 Shown after pan removed)

7.02 Have a helper press down on the 2x4 to force the sub-frame down another 1-2".
7.03 Rotate the pan counter clockwise slightly while bringing the front of the pan down to hook it around the sub-frame. If you are hitting the A/C line loosen your wire hook and lower it a bit more.
7.04 If all is right in the world things should look like this (PHOTO 21)

7.05 Now stand back and admire your work thus far. Take a drink of “INSERT FAVORITE BEVERAGE HERE” (PHOTO 22)

This happens to be mine. CHEERS!

Inspecting the Pan

• Regardless of your reason or need to remove the oil pan, you should take the opportunity to inspect the pan. You can learn a lot about the health of your engine by seeing what’s in the bottom of the sump and your pickup screen.
• Here are some pictures of mine the first time I removed it. (PHOTO 23)
  
  I found bits of metal (Actually from one of my main bearings, I just didn’t know it at the time), Plastic pieces of the cam chain adjuster pads and parts of plastic from the dipstick tube and the dipstick in the pan and pickup tube. (PHOTO 23a)
  

Cleaning the Pan

• Before cleaning the pan, be sure to remove the oil level sensor. I’m not sure of water or solvents would actually damage it, but it’s better to be safe than replace a $40 part.
• The oil and carbon residue inside of the pan is probably not going to hurt anything if you do not clean it, but I took the opportunity to scrub it out and try to make it look like new (PHOTO 24). I found that a combination of Purple Power and a stiff brush worked to get most of the residue off and them some Brake Cleaner to remove some of the more stubborn deposits.
• You will want to make sure the outside is clean too, in the event that you do not seal the pan properly and there are some leaks it would be easier to spot them if the pan was clean.

Reinstallation

• Before you reinstall the pan you must make sure the surface of the engine block is clean and free of oil along with the mating surface of the pan. Use alcohol or acetone on the mating surfaces just before you apply the sealant. This step is absolutely critical. The silicone will NOT adhere to and oily surface PERIOD!
• Apply a 2-3mm thick bead of silicone to the top of the pan flange as shown (Fig 7) (PHOTO 24) be ready to attach the pan immediately after you apply the silicone.
  
  
• Again have someone help hold the sub-frame down so you can place the pan into position.
• Take care to avoid smearing the silicone bead while you manipulate the pan.
• Have two M7 screws ready to go so you can finger tighten them once the pan is set into place.
• Lightly tighten all of the M7 screws Do not torque them yet. You should still be able to tap the pan and move it slightly if needed
• Attach the two M7 (or M6 depending on seal type) screws which go through the bell housing into the rear main seal. Torque these to 15nm
• Attach the 3 Rear Facing M10x45 Bolts to the transmission and torque these down to 45nm
• Attach the M10 Nut and torque to 45nm. If you don’t have the T-Bolt then you will need to slip an Allen key wrench or something to hold the bolt on the transmission side.
• Attach the 2 M10x90 bolts and tighten to 40nm
• Torque all of the M7 bolts to 15nm, starting in the middle of the pan starting in the middle in a diagonal crisscross pattern until they are snug.

Putting it all back together
From here you can basically follow all of the guide steps in reverse with a few special points to note

• You may need to use your floor jack to raise the sub-frame close enough the body to start threading the M12x110 sub frame bolts. (Fig 8 - #1) Get them close but leave them loose until you position the motor mount studs and the transmission mount bolts.
  
  
• Next attach the 4 M10x70 sub-frame bolts. (Fig 8 - #2,3) again get them finger tight or just touching the frame.
• Now attach the 2 M8x22 transmission mount bolts and tighten the two which you left attached to the mount, and torque them all to 25nm
• Tighten the Rear Sub-Frame bolts 55nm
• Use a crow bar or large screw driver to rock and adjust the sub-frame to the correct lateral position before tightening down the 6 M10 stretch bolts. Work them snug with a hand ratchet and continually adjust the alignment as needed. If you spray painted the flanges, then this step will be easy. Once you are satisfied with the alignment tighten them all to about 40nm
• Now go back and torque them to the final specification. (Fig 8 - #1) M12x110 110nm+1/4” turn (Fig 8 - #2,3) 75nm
• When you lower the engine you may need some assistance guiding the motor mount studs into the correct hole of the motor mount. Get them close or just barely touching. Since the mount is elastic you can usually wiggle the body of the motor mount enough to get the stud to drop into the middle hole. Re-attach the M8 Nut and tighten to 25nm.
• DON’T FORGET to reinstall a new oil filter and add oil. Don't laugh, after working 5-8 hours doing this type of work it’s easy to jump ahead of yourself and forget.

Wrap-Up
I want to thank the AZ community for giving me the knowledge and information to tackle this repair myself last year. I can honestly say that if it weren’t for the resources and experience that the community has to offer I would have probably just forked over the $600 to my mechanic and been done with it. I’m so glad that didn’t happen.
Also, If anyone has any questions I would prefer that you respond to this post. If something is unclear I’ll gladly elaborate and update this post as needed. Also If I’ve made any errors please also post or PM me and I’ll be happy to correct those details as needed.

I’ll also create a PDF version of this and figure out how to link it when I get a chance.

[Toolaa]

RESERVED

[gotboost]

This is awesome. Did mine a few weeks ago and it was a huge PITA!

[DiertyEuroSpec]

Awesome write up!!

[squeegy200]

I want to express my gratitude for taking the time to write this, photograph the sequences, and research all of the parts and specifications. Most notable and beneficial to me is it outlined what challenges to anticipate which really adjusted my expectations and allowed me to properly prepare. The b#!ch bolt was especially evil and the recommendation for the Tbolt was invaluable. It took me several days to get this done. But it would have been a different experience without this DIY write up. Thank You for this and the other related write ups!

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[RichW_SC]

Thank you for this guide!

Another happy customer...followed your guide to a T. Well almost. DON'T skip steps. I nearly destroyed my starter cable...amazing that I didn't. Despite things being right in front of your face you can easily overlook them. Just follow all the steps.

Other random tips:

*Rear wheels on ramps, front jack stands sitting on 4" of solid concrete bricks. Stacked 2 4x4's under wheels for safety. Got the car nice and high.
*If you are over 45 get a creeper from HF. Allows you to walk the next day.
*Engine hoist from Harbor Freight for $63 w/ coupon.
*Do an engine flush or two (amsoil flush or similar) BEFORE dropping the pan.
*You may need to remove the plastic oil splash guard in order to get the oil pan out/in. If I had removed the starter wire I may have had plenty of room.
*If sludge... clean the upper sides of the upper pan next to the rods with a spray bottle of diesel fuel and a toilet brush. May have to manually rotate engine a little to make room. Spray a lot.
*Use playtex gloves with "drip guard" they work great and WEAR EYE PROTECTION
*"bitch" bolt wasn't really that much of a problem for me on or off. Did not use the T-head bolt.

My before/after pics are here: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...lpan-Next-step

My hot oil pressure @2000 rpm improved from 37psi to 60. I had a severely clogged pickup tube. Super happy with the result, probably saved my engine.

One snag...

Picture #12: The 2 rear subframe bolts that you loosen only may have different torque values than what was posted depending on the bolt type. I snapped the head off of one and luckily was able to get the stud out. According to Bentley the bolt I had should be torqued to 22ft/lbs instead of 41. Apparently these bolts and threads strip out pretty regularly. Heli-Coil is the fix.

Here's the Bentley photo and torque values (page S 40-2 and S 40-4):

Click for large view - Uploaded with Skitch

[Toolaa]

Rich thanks for adding those good suggestions. I've been out of the loop a while dealing with building my business but when I have access to a PC and a few minutes, I'll amend my original guide to include the information about the three different bolt specifications. Now that summer is approaching I'll be working on the B6 again soon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[woodpile40]

http://m.autozone.com/external-engin...20pan%20gasket

Sent from my SM-G360V using Tapatalk

[boy412]

Thanks for taking the time to do this. Great DIY! After 13 years of driving this car I've finally managed to destroy an oil pan so I was happy to see this procedure so well-documented.

[fR3ZNO]

I used this guide to remove the oil pan on my B5.5 Passat. Had a cam chain tensioner rattle, oil pressure was okay but still wanted to drop the pan for peace of mind. Replaced the pickup tube while I was in there. Small amounts of debris in the screen, but nothing major. It had a different engine (AWM), similar though. This was very helpful and super detailed.

I wish AWM used a gasket instead of a sealant. I was extremely careful not to smear the bead of RTV as I put the pan on, but after the car was put back together and taken for a test drive, there is some slight weeping on the drivers side edge of the oil pan. Passenger side is bone dry.

[Jet08]

I have a fwd with cvt which requires the sump to be replaced , I have followed this guide but I am unable to get the 2 bolts that are accessed through the windows in the bell-housing as there appears to be a ridge on the flywheel that prevents the 10mm 1/4 socket from connecting with the bolt head, I have used 2 different 10mm hoping the shorter one will fit between the flywheel ridge and the bolt head.

If I am reading correctly then loosening the transmission will be of no benefit as the flywheel is connected to the back of the crankshaft.

Thanks to Toolaa for the guide

Any help appreciated.

[audiglenn]

I currently attempting to remove the 2 bolts that are accessed throught the windows in the bell-housing. I was able to loosen the bolt on the passenger side using an allen wrench, but unfortunately having problems loosening the bolt on the driver side. I am having the same issue as Jet08. I have broken and extender and swivel. The socket seems to get stuck under the flywheel when I attempt to put the socket on the bolt head. Like Jet08, will attempt to use a smaller socket to see if it can get under the flywheel.

Any help is appreciated.

[audiglenn]

I have a fwd with cvt which requires the sump to be replaced , I have followed this guide but I am unable to get the 2 bolts that are accessed through the windows in the bell-housing as there appears to be a ridge on the flywheel that prevents the 10mm 1/4 socket from connecting with the bolt head, I have used 2 different 10mm hoping the shorter one will fit between the flywheel ridge and the bolt head.

If I am reading correctly then loosening the transmission will be of no benefit as the flywheel is connected to the back of the crankshaft.

Thanks to Toolaa for the guide

Any help appreciated.

Were you able to resolve your issue? I am also having problems grabbing the bolt under the flywheel ridge. I was also thinking my 10mm socket is to big.

[egovreau]

I currently attempting to remove the 2 bolts that are accessed throught the windows in the bell-housing. I was able to loosen the bolt on the passenger side using an allen wrench, but unfortunately having problems loosening the bolt on the driver side. I am having the same issue as Jet08. I have broken and extender and swivel. The socket seems to get stuck under the flywheel when I attempt to put the socket on the bolt head. Like Jet08, will attempt to use a smaller socket to see if it can get under the flywheel.

Any help is appreciated.

I believe a 10mm socket, 1/4" drive, with a wobbly extension should work.

I think I read somewhere that it's preferable to use a socket instead of a ball end Allen key. For that reason especially.

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[Jet08]

I was able to remove the 2 bolts using an long allen key but when I reinstalled the oil pan I dropped both in to the bellhousing and have not been able to remove them using my flex magnetic grabber so I will need to remove the pan again. Note to self use blue tack on end of allen key when reinstalling, I just remembered I think I dropped a 10mm socket in there as well, it would have been quicker to remove the engine :)

[audiglenn]

I was able to remove the 2 bolts using an long allen key but when I reinstalled the oil pan I dropped both in to the bellhousing and have not been able to remove them using my flex magnetic grabber so I will need to remove the pan again. Note to self use blue tack on end of allen key when reinstalling, I just remembered I think I dropped a 10mm socket in there as well, it would have been quicker to remove the engine :)

Currently, a 10mm socket and swivel is stuck under the flywheel ridge. I already dropped another 10mm socket in the bell-housing in a previous attempt. Trying to figure out how to get the socket and swivel out right now. Can I free the socket and swivel my moving the crank?

[Jet08]

It did not work for me but it would depend on the landing location, I took the plugs out so I could move the crank from under the car while I looked and poked around. Good luck I am removing the pan tomorrow.

[audiglenn]

I was able to free the stuck socket and swivel by moving the crank. Able to remove both bolts with a long allen wrench. The 2 days of spraying break-free must have done the job. These bolts were extremely tight initially. Unfortunately, I am unable to drop the pan completely. I still need about 2 inches. How did you create space between the engine and cross support frame? I notice in other DIYs, people were using 2 by 4's and 4 by 4 wood to create space and also removing the engine mounts.

Will give it another go tomorrow. How are you doing with your oil pan removal Jet08?

[Jet08]

I was not able to get the bolts ut of the bellhousing so I am removing the oil pan but have the 2 bolts in the rear that require the flywheel slots to align to go. I am using an engine crane to lift the engine and have removed the bottom engine mount bolts to drop the subframe low enough to reach the horizontal bellhousing bolts and the last of the oil pan bolts. I wish I had just removed the engine as it would have taken less effort. I had a holed pan why are you removing yours?

[Jet08]

The pan is off, it was heartbreaking to see how well I had sealed it the first time and not looking forward to reinstalling it and those 2 rear pan bolts. It is taking a while to remove all the silicone gasket sealer using a scourer and carb cleaner.

[ChapStar]

I'm having issues getting my pan off. The last of the hidden bolts won't come off. The inside is stripped and I can't get anything to seat on the outside because the flywheel it seems to close even though it's turned to where the passages are for the hidden bolts. What can I do to either move the subframe around, or get more space by the flywheel?

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[A4Sleeper28]

I'm having issues getting my pan off. The last of the hidden bolts won't come off. The inside is stripped and I can't get anything to seat on the outside because the flywheel it seems to close even though it's turned to where the passages are for the hidden bolts. What can I do to either move the subframe around, or get more space by the flywheel?

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Did you ever get the2 bolts out ? I spent hours today and tried an Allen but stripping both. My 10mm socket just doesn’t have the clearance it needs to grab the bolts

[btleier]

Hey All,

I'm in the middle of this job and would love some guidance on two points.

1) I see this is discontinued everywhere I look. Has anyone found something similar elsewhere or do I just have to fight with the spinning cap screw? I honestly don't even know how I am going to get it reinstalled. I found one on ebay that would come from Latvia, but will take 2-4 weeks.
1ea Special T-Head M10x50 Transmission Mount Screw N90715501

2) I see woodpile40 posted above a link to an actual gasket you can get from AutoZone vs using a sealant. I like this idea especially given how tight of a fit it is to work the oil pan back in there. Any reason not to go this route? This job has been a real pain in the ass, so the last thing I want is a leaking oil pan after going through all of this.
https://www.autozone.com/external-en...736/729679_0_0

[Toolaa]

Hey All,

I'm in the middle of this job and would love some guidance on two points.

1) I see this is discontinued everywhere I look. Has anyone found something similar elsewhere or do I just have to fight with the spinning cap screw? I honestly don't even know how I am going to get it reinstalled. I found one on ebay that would come from Latvia, but will take 2-4 weeks.
1ea Special T-Head M10x50 Transmission Mount Screw N90715501

2) I see woodpile40 posted above a link to an actual gasket you can get from AutoZone vs using a sealant. I like this idea especially given how tight of a fit it is to work the oil pan back in there. Any reason not to go this route? This job has been a real pain in the ass, so the last thing I want is a leaking oil pan after going through all of this.
https://www.autozone.com/external-en...736/729679_0_0

It’s been a long time since I’ve had the A4 and Passat so my memories are a bit rusty, but let me weigh in.

1) if you cannot find the t-bolt you could attempt to make your own using a regular M10x50 flanged nut. You would have to grind off 1/2 of the flange and hex head while leaving the shaft of the bolt in tact. You could do it with a die grinder or angle grinder if you had a vice and some decent dexterity with a grinder.

2) Regarding using a gasket vs the sealer. I can say while the sealer is a pain in the ass to use, it’s going to be much better than a gasket. If the surfaces are clean and wiped down with isopropyl or acetone before applying the sealer it’s it’s going to hold. I know you are probably worried about bumping the oil pan into parts of the engine while trying to position it in place. I would recommend applying a thick bead to the bottom of the block mating surface. Then as you position the pan, if you bump or scrape some of the adhesive be prepared to use a tool to press some more sealant onto the disturbed area. It doesn’t take much sealer to fill the gap. Most will squish out of the joint as you tighten the bolts. As long as you have at least a thin film and both surfaces remain clean, it’s going to seal just fine.


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[Ingolstadt9]

Hello, all. This seems like a great post but I cannot see the photos. Have they been removed or is it a matter of my account level? Appreciate any help and advice.