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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Oct 28 2012
    AZ Member #
    103061
    Location
    near chicago

    odd situation with turbo oil return lines at oil pan

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    In case I didn't say already, I'm doing a full build with the help of another forum member. I'm hoping for 500 whp.

    For the matter at hand. I ordered two orings from ecs using a parts diagram I found on here. I pulled both stainless flexible oil return lines at the oil pan to clean and reseal. On the passenger side line, there is a groove that accepts the new oring (and there was an old oring upon removal). I noticed on the driver side, there was no oring on removal. If I place a new oring on the line, where it looks like it might go, the flange will not seat all the way to the pan. There seems to be no way this will seal properly. Any ideas?

    This is with oring in place




    What it looks like with it pulled out where I would expect the oring to fit



    How it looks after pulled out first time and cleaned with no oring



    It seats fully on my daily driver, like I would expect and how it was pulled out of the engine I'm building



    Sneak Peak


  2. #2
    Senior Member Three Rings Wide-66's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 17 2011
    AZ Member #
    77041
    My Garage
    1966 Porsche 911 w/ 996 swap, 12’ A7, 05’ Allroad 6MT, 01’ B5 S4 F21, 86’ Coupe GT....many more
    Location
    NH

    Thats a collar that sometimes pulls out. Pop it off the return line and you will see the oring underneath. When i had this happen on a car I had a perpetual leak. Soooo what I did was superclean the area of the upper oil pan. Clean the collar wicked good and then insert it with 2 part epoxy and let it sit over night.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Oct 28 2012
    AZ Member #
    103061
    Location
    near chicago

    So I can grab a hold of that center piece with pliers and pull it out with some force?

  4. #4
    Senior Member Three Rings Wide-66's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 17 2011
    AZ Member #
    77041
    My Garage
    1966 Porsche 911 w/ 996 swap, 12’ A7, 05’ Allroad 6MT, 01’ B5 S4 F21, 86’ Coupe GT....many more
    Location
    NH

    I would be super careful its very thin wall maybe work itup with 2 small screwdrivers

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Sep 11 2009
    AZ Member #
    47633
    Location
    NE

    Chisel or something (with very fine edge), try to create a gap between sleeve and flange with it, once you get it moving, keep pushing it out. If you nick/scratch what's on the outside in relation to o-rings, no big deal. Don't grab the sleeve and don't pull from the "inside" of things. You will mangle it and then you will have a real problem.

    Use penetrating oil, a little heat if needed. Then epoxy/rtv that piece as advised.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings Jsmooth65's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 10 2007
    AZ Member #
    20218
    My Garage
    '15 BMW M235i, '04 A4 1.8t
    Location
    Castle Rock, CO

    Both of those stupid sleeves came out when I did my build years ago. Perpetual leak, no matter how much black permatex I smear on them. Lucky for my driveway, my Panzer plate catches all the drippings.
    2004 Audi A4 Sedan, Auto, Black, 1.8T Beater
    SOLD - 2007 Audi S4 Sedan, 6spd, Sprint Blue, JHM tune, JHM trio, JHM LWFW and stg3 clutch, Magnaflow RS4 exhaust, LED tails, TTRS SW
    DEAD - 2000 Audi S4 Sedan, 6spd, Laser Red, FRANKENTURBO Stage 3 VAST Fueling (25psi), ER Intercoolers w/shrouds, SSAC DP and Twin 2, JHM trio, APR Bipipe, VAST Stage 3 clutch and LWFW, Sterns mounts, 034 ICM delete/coil conversion, Vogtland coilovers

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