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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Nov 23 2009
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    NYC, US

    Rear coil overs height adjustment

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    I was told that rear coilovers is impossible to adjust to make the car go lower without disconnect the rear struct from the sub-frame. This seems to apply to all brand coilovers. The spring has so much pressure on them and it won't compress more by turning the adjustment ring on the coilovers.

    Is this true? What did you do to lower your rear height?

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings Limey's Avatar
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    Nov 27 2010
    AZ Member #
    67534
    My Garage
    2004 srt4
    Location
    Edmonton,Alberta

    Rear coil overs height adjustment

    Not sure who you heard that from, but it's total crap. I just put my car on jacks and took the rear wheel off then turned the nut on the coilover to lower it. That simple
    2009 A4/Brilliant Black/6MT//Usual Vag-Com mods//A5 5 spoke "y" rims with Michelin 255/35/19 super sports//bilstein pss10's//rs4 grill//rs4 grills//S-Line side blades//Ecode halogen to bi xenon conversion//LED bulb interior swap//AWE quad tip exhaust//Eurocode Short Throw Shifter/inlet pipe/sways/end links/alu kruz//S5 front brakes//APR carbonio intake//SPM Test & downpipe//APR stage 2 flash

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Limey View Post
    Not sure who you heard that from, but it's total crap. I just put my car on jacks and took the rear wheel off then turned the nut on the coilover to lower it. That simple
    I have solo werks. I guess I have to try it myself. Did the spring turns while you are turning the adjustment ring?

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings ddun's Avatar
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    Jun 06 2009
    AZ Member #
    43404
    Location
    Stanton, CA

    On my HR's don't have to remove anything, just jack up car, spin the perch with an Allen and hold the collar with the tool

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Three Rings Limey's Avatar
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    Nov 27 2010
    AZ Member #
    67534
    My Garage
    2004 srt4
    Location
    Edmonton,Alberta

    Quote Originally Posted by AutoRacer100 View Post
    I have solo werks. I guess I have to try it myself. Did the spring turns while you are turning the adjustment ring?
    The spring stayed in its place while I turned the ring.
    2009 A4/Brilliant Black/6MT//Usual Vag-Com mods//A5 5 spoke "y" rims with Michelin 255/35/19 super sports//bilstein pss10's//rs4 grill//rs4 grills//S-Line side blades//Ecode halogen to bi xenon conversion//LED bulb interior swap//AWE quad tip exhaust//Eurocode Short Throw Shifter/inlet pipe/sways/end links/alu kruz//S5 front brakes//APR carbonio intake//SPM Test & downpipe//APR stage 2 flash

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings adamazing's Avatar
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    Apr 26 2014
    AZ Member #
    197242
    Location
    San Diego, CA

    Quote Originally Posted by AutoRacer100 View Post
    I have solo werks. I guess I have to try it myself. Did the spring turns while you are turning the adjustment ring?

    I have Solo's. You can adjust them with the spanner wrenches.



    2013 A4 Quattro Green Black Iridescent / APR E85 Stage 2 / AG F421 Polished Copper / Eurocode FMIC + HFC / AWE Quad + CF Diffuser
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  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Sep 01 2012
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    Edmonton

    Wrenches and jack stands is all that's needed for me.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Nov 23 2009
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    NYC, US

    Ok guys. I'm going to try it tonight after work. The rear right side is at least 0.5" higher than the other ones. I can even tell by looking at the car while park there from the rear. The rear right side is abit of higher.

    So I'm just going to tape measure the gap of both rear sides and remove the rear right wheel. Then I can do the adjustment. That's all I need to do, right?

    The current gap is I can insert my two fingers in it. The rear right side is almost three fingers of the gap.

    I know the springs are going to settle in after some drive (300 miles). Should I hold off the adjustment of the rear until I put another 300 miles on the car? So all springs should have settled in by then?

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings Liquid Smoke's Avatar
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    Dec 01 2011
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    84653
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    NYC

    for those with Solos, one full turn of the adjustment knob part, approx how much does that adjust the suspension? like one full turn = 1/2 inch, or anything like that? just wanna get an idea, i know how much i wanna raise it but want to try and just do it at one time and not go back and forth adjusting if i can.
    '22 S5 Sportback 3.0T Prestige [Daytona Grey / Magma Red / Black Optic]
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  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Liquid Smoke View Post
    for those with Solos, one full turn of the adjustment knob part, approx how much does that adjust the suspension? like one full turn = 1/2 inch, or anything like that? just wanna get an idea, i know how much i wanna raise it but want to try and just do it at one time and not go back and forth adjusting if i can.
    I think it's a trial and error thing. I wish there is an easier way to do this. But I believe it is time consuming work at least for the first time. You just have to measure and adjust, re-measure and re-adjust. I know it's a pain.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Sep 01 2012
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    Edmonton

    No you can do it in one shot. Before raising the car take ftg measurements and write them down on a paper ie FR 25 1/2". Then when your car is on jacks take the wheel off then take a measurement in the distance of the threads that are left ie 1 3/4". Then do a lil math. If you want that side adjusted so if you want 25 1/4" you'll need to have 1 1/2" of thread left. Then repeat all wheels if they are all different. The coils will settle after a bit considering different weight per wheel, then you'll probably have to do it again. Also once you change the height and you lower the vehicle it will look like you didn't do anything, you need to drive for a lil bit to settle also.

  12. #12
    Active Member Two Rings meemo's Avatar
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    Jul 01 2014
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    260531
    Location
    Winchester

    I guess it depends which ones you have, I have FK's and they are a b***h, they just spin in the purch like you say.

    I bought a pipe clamp with rubber grips on and use that to clamp it still whilst I adjust, still an a** to get it clamped especially with limited space, but doable :)



    I say I.. but I found it really frustrating and kind friend jumped in to save the day bless. I just did the easy bit.. the fronts lol
    ************************************************** ************************
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  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Ok, I did the height adjustment for the rear right side. It took me a while to do it and I was soaked in sweat. It wasn't so easy as I thought as I haven't been doing any physical manual work for so long.

    First of all, I wasn't sure the right spot for the jack. The edge at the buttom of the car has some sort of plastic wrapping over it and it cracks when I tried to jack the car up. So I lowered the jack and double triple check I was the jacking the right spot. That took me at least 30 mins to make sure and the spare tire jack is so skinny. I was afraid it will fail and the rear section of the car would fall off. Then it took me a while to turn the ring. And putting back the wheel was a huge pain.

    One mistake I made is I didn't measure the distance of left thread. Now the FTG on the left is 6.25" and FTG on the right (the one I adjusted) is 6.00". I probably need to do it again later. I hope I can put the car on the lifter and do this while all the wheels are off.

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings oascom's Avatar
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    Jan 08 2013
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    107113
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    New Jersey

    I would die if I would have to use audi jack and key to remove wheels... With my lift, Jacks and compressor and impact gun I do it in less than 10 min for all wheels :P


    Anyway I rub a little in the back so either I need to up it a little or change spacers
    APR, Eurocode, AWE, P3, aFe , CTS, Spulen, H&R, 034Motorsport, STaSIS

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings oascom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AutoRacer100 View Post
    Ok, I did the height adjustment for the rear right side. It took me a while to do it and I was soaked in sweat. It wasn't so easy as I thought as I haven't been doing any physical manual work for so long.

    First of all, I wasn't sure the right spot for the jack. The edge at the buttom of the car has some sort of plastic wrapping over it and it cracks when I tried to jack the car up. So I lowered the jack and double triple check I was the jacking the right spot. That took me at least 30 mins to make sure and the spare tire jack is so skinny. I was afraid it will fail and the rear section of the car would fall off. Then it took me a while to turn the ring. And putting back the wheel was a huge pain.

    One mistake I made is I didn't measure the distance of left thread. Now the FTG on the left is 6.25" and FTG on the right (the one I adjusted) is 6.00". I probably need to do it again later. I hope I can put the car on the lifter and do this while all the wheels are off.
    There is a spot without plastic where you should put your jack. Also you can lift both sides at once using subframe from back this way you don't bend your pinch welds
    APR, Eurocode, AWE, P3, aFe , CTS, Spulen, H&R, 034Motorsport, STaSIS

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by oascom View Post
    There is a spot without plastic where you should put your jack. Also you can lift both sides at once using subframe from back this way you don't bend your pinch welds
    I need to review the changing spare tire section of the owner's manual. What subframe are you talking about? I have no idea.

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings amz's Avatar
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    Apr 29 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by oascom View Post
    There is a spot without plastic where you should put your jack. Also you can lift both sides at once using subframe from back this way you don't bend your pinch welds
    Is there a sticky or something with pictures of the safe spots and ways to lift these cars?
    2012 S4 ~ Phantom Black - Mustang Brown - B&O - Sport Diff - DSG
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  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by amz View Post
    Is there a sticky or something with pictures of the safe spots and ways to lift these cars?
    I didn't find anything under or on the side of the car, that's for sure. I looked everywhere. Hopefully it has the info in the owner's manual.

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings amz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AutoRacer100 View Post
    I didn't find anything under or on the side of the car, that's for sure. I looked everywhere. Hopefully it has the info in the owner's manual.
    I meant on the forum...not a sticker on the car lol. How to raise the car using the pinch weld and where to place the axle stands to safely support the weight of the car. The manual will point out the jack points which are just forward of the rear tire, and just aft of the front tire. If you look under the car (or feel with your hands) there will be a gap in the plastic which exposes the pinch weld. Look directly under where the front door hinges are and direcly down from the rear door latch, you'll find it.
    2012 S4 ~ Phantom Black - Mustang Brown - B&O - Sport Diff - DSG
    AWE Touring Exhaust | Roc Euro Intake | Eurocode Alu-Kruez | Eurocode USS Swaybars & Solid End Links
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  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings oascom's Avatar
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    I will try to snap pic where I lift mine. But I have heavy-duty lift like 4 tons that's why I can easily lift both sides at once. If I don't need up both sides I just use my 2 tons lift and lift it at pinch welds.
    APR, Eurocode, AWE, P3, aFe , CTS, Spulen, H&R, 034Motorsport, STaSIS

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Is there a need to do wheel alignment after height adjustment?

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings oascom's Avatar
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    I believe very small adjustments are ok. You need alignment when you drop it completely or up it.

    But this is just a quess.
    APR, Eurocode, AWE, P3, aFe , CTS, Spulen, H&R, 034Motorsport, STaSIS

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