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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Three Rings OB1's Avatar
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    DIY: 2.0tfsi PCV install

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    Very easy and simple install to replace your PCV valve if you ever gotten a CEL and your rpms sputter on idle. That's if it's the PCV you've pinpointed.

    Required:
    • Torx 30 screwdriver
    • Angled needle nose pilers
    • Flathead screwdriver


    I picked up the PCV from Europaparts.com (http://www.europaparts.com/pressure-...6h103495e.html). Make sure whomever you're buying it from, you get a VIN# check to see which unit you need.

    I choose to use a screwdriver over a socket bit since you're screwing the bolts in to metal, it's more controlling.

    Step 1: Remove plastic engine cover. Locate the bolt that holds the coil pack harness and remove it. Make sure you set the bolt aside and not get it mixed up with the other bolts.



    Step 2: Using a flathead, gently clip out the 4 connectors to your coilpacks. Make sure you hear a click and pull them away slowly. There's not much room for the harness to move and it will probably just sit on top of your coils.



    Step 3: Locate the intake tube to the PCV unit. Using your fingers, press down on the top and bottom part (it's raised and has a notched surface) of the clip and pull the intake tube out. You can rotate it to the right and get it out of the way. Make sure you cover the opening with a towel or glove.



    Step 4: Locate the torx bolt that holds the breather tube and remove it. Also, set this aside from all other bolts to not mix it up.



    Step 5: Gently, lift up on the coil pack harness and slide out the intake from the breather tube. It's a flat rectangle shape and should slide right out from the PCV. Also, slide out the two coilpacks as you need to access the torx bolts to the PCV.


    Breather tube looks like this,



    Step 6: Remove all 9 bolts that hold the PCV assembly in place. Use the needle nose pilers to get the ones out from the back.



    Step 7: Lift PCV out and replace with new unit. If have left over oil anywhere, take some and LIGHTLY grease the new seal. Just like you would when replacing an oil filter.
    Reinstall all bolts to the PCV.
    Attach breather tube, screw back in bolt. Attach PCV intake tube.
    Install your two coil packs back in. Clip your coil pack harness back in.
    Reinstall coil pack harness bolt and engine cover.


    Should take anyone from 30-45mins. Pretty simple and straightforward.
    Last edited by OB1; 07-16-2014 at 05:32 PM.
    '12 MG A4 Avant

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Where did you purchase the pcv valve? Ive gotten mine replaced 3 times already under warranty and theyre all rhe beige color while this one looks black

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings OB1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ulisses03hd View Post
    Where did you purchase the pcv valve? Ive gotten mine replaced 3 times already under warranty and theyre all rhe beige color while this one looks black
    http://www.europaparts.com/pressure-...6h103495e.html

    Again, the PCV unit is VIN# specific. You could have an early model as I have a very late '12 2.0t model. I did notice that it's all black, which would believe me to suspect it being a revised version, while being OEM.
    '12 MG A4 Avant

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings Campblett's Avatar
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    Are there any other symptoms of a bad pcv without the cel or sputter at idle? I sometimes get hesitation mid rpms in 1st gear and it sounds like I have a boost leak. Looked at all the other possibilities it could be and couldn't find anything wrong.
    Last edited by Campblett; 07-17-2014 at 09:19 PM.
    2018 RS3 & 2017 SQ5


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  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Check the pcv for the boostleak. It should be very noticeable if you do. Rough idle at a stop and a but of hesitation when moving

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Three Rings OB1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Campblett View Post
    Are there any other symptoms of a bad pcv without the cel or sputter at idle? I sometimes get hesitation mid rpms in 1st gear and it sounds like I have a boost leak. Looked at all the other possibilities it could be and couldn't find anything wrong.
    Describe mid rpms? Usually, you'll notice when you're in idle or under 1,000rpms. You can also check for a bad vacuum; while having your engine running, unscrew the oil cap slowly. If it's hard to take off (strong vacuum) it could be a leak in the PCV.
    Also, if you notice oil around the PCV, intake manifold or on top of your coils/harness could be a bad PCV.
    '12 MG A4 Avant

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings amz's Avatar
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    When you pulled your coils out did you notice what appeared to be oil leaking into the coil cylinders, or white crusty stuff?


    2012 S4 ~ Phantom Black - Mustang Brown - B&O - Sport Diff - DSG
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  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings OB1's Avatar
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    ^Nope, I didn't have anything looking like that.
    '12 MG A4 Avant

  9. #9
    Active Member Two Rings Dimabel12's Avatar
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    Hey, does the pcv lessen fuel economy? I have noticed when the car sputters on start up the gas gauge seems to go down too quickly... How did you exactly pinpoint that the problem is the pcv valve?

  10. #10
    Junior Member Two Rings Taylor855's Avatar
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    I wonder about which PCV valve people should get if they've gotten Stage 1 of the oil consumption test done? They put in an updated PCV valve which required some new crankcase seal and other stuff. I suppose Audi knows my VIN has the updated PCV valve, but would the aftermarket parts suppliers?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. #11
    Active Member One Ring
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    This was great, thanks!

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings B44's Avatar
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    So if i have a 2009 b8 should i use the black pcv or the partial white one? Thanks

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings booost's Avatar
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    Bump! My car has been having issues the past few days, occasional rough idle on cold start and yesterday I got CEL and code for:

    5671 - Boost Pressure Regulation
    P0299 00 [096] - Control Range Not Reached

    The car makes a loud air sucking noise when under boost. Haven't noticed any disconnected hoses but when I remove the oil cap, there's a ton of suction and the car stumbles. Seems to idle smooth once warmed up after a few minutes. I'm thinking it's the PCV, any ideas on what else to check?
    Click: B8 Quartz Grey Metallic A4 2.0T quattro | 18" Peelers et35| APR stage 1 | aFe | eurocode | H&R | 3.0 TDI FMIC | PowerStop | PODI
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  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings booost's Avatar
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    Engine bay pic, all hose connections are tight. The air noise only seems to happen under load while I'm driving.




    Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk
    Click: B8 Quartz Grey Metallic A4 2.0T quattro | 18" Peelers et35| APR stage 1 | aFe | eurocode | H&R | 3.0 TDI FMIC | PowerStop | PODI
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  15. #15
    Established Member Two Rings AOW162435's Avatar
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    Excellent write up. Thank you.



    Andreas
    2014 Audi A4, Monsoon Gray / Black
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  16. #16
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Great threat. A couple helpful items - link to DIY to replace just the Diaphragm for around fifteen bucks:
    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ebuild-content

    And an image showing the factory specified fastener order and torque:

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Three Rings S4_SH1640's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OB1 View Post
    Describe mid rpms? Usually, you'll notice when you're in idle or under 1,000rpms. You can also check for a bad vacuum; while having your engine running, unscrew the oil cap slowly. If it's hard to take off (strong vacuum) it could be a leak in the PCV.
    Also, if you notice oil around the PCV, intake manifold or on top of your coils/harness could be a bad PCV.
    Instead of replacing the PCV, Can i take if off and clean it with brake parts cleaner or check for any blockage in PCV itself? The oil Cap tes as you said, The oil cap sticks pretty good, I thought that was because of good compression? or am i confusing it with something else?

    Basically, What is the best way to check if i have a bad PCV or need an Updated One?
    I have a 2010 Premium plus.

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Three Rings S4_SH1640's Avatar
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    I just ordered my new PCV and audi told me that there is an updated one for my car. so instead of paying $137 dollars or whatever it was, the updated one is $56 dollars. so alot cheaper.

    Part number of the updated one is 06H-103-495-AE and the one i have in the car now is 06H-103-495-A.

    Will update you guys once it arrives and i replace it.

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Three Rings S4_SH1640's Avatar
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  20. #20
    Active Member One Ring
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    just to add for anyone that is doing this.. there is a breather hose attached to the turbo inlet just after the intake.. ordered for ecs and they supplied it so thought it would be worth mentioned... i needed i universal join and 3 inch extension on my t30 torx to get the higher bolt, the other is easly reached. it does take a little twisting to get out from coil pack lines (not sure what you would call what the coil packs plug in to?) but it should be a problem if you removed securing bolt and coil pack 3 and 4 as are required for the job. write up definitely helped !!

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings lettuce's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by S4_SH1640 View Post
    FYI this is not for our cars, it's for the B7 FSI motor. Do not buy this if you have a B8 with the TFSI motor. Completely different PCV system.
    B8 A4 - Eurodyne-tuned F23L - 12.6 @ 107 on 93

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Three Rings Finder's Avatar
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    Isn't there anyone making a PCV block-off for the B8 TFSI?
    Audi A3 2.0T 6MT - UNITRONIC K04
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  23. #23
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    I know this is an older thread, but I just had this issue yesterday and made a video of the fix, only costs $30 and can be done with a screwdriver in 5 minutes. PCV Valve Diaphragm Dorman part number 917-064
    My symptoms were check engine light "Stop engine now, Low Oil Pressure" and the code was P2187 Lean Idle.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWiq38FShD0

  24. #24
    Established Member Two Rings mishonio's Avatar
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    Thx for the video cuda2000. I plan to do the same repair. Any follow up issues ?

  25. #25
    Registered Member One Ring
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    Now that was a nice DIY.
    How about...anyone heard any good stories about those catch cans?
    Was thinking of building one from pneumatic filter cases..between the hose from PCV back to motor.
    To prevent this carbon collecting shit.

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Three Rings S4_SH1640's Avatar
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    Can anyone direct me to where to purchase a PCV valve with the "A" at the end end?

    In need this Part #
    06H103495A


    Audi will try to sell me the AE or AC but my engine doesnt like anything other than the PCV ending with only "A"

    Please advise if anyone has a place where i can buy this revision instead of the latest one.
    Garage:
    B5 S4 Santorin Blue Stage 2
    B8 A4 Premium Plus
    D4 S8 4.0T

  27. #27
    Senior Member Two Rings BrianVan's Avatar
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    Not trying to be a @ick...but here's a link https://lmgtfy.com/?q=06H103495A&p=1
    And Search part numbers on the sites that come up and make sure they have an "A" at the end.
    2013 B8.5 A4 Quattro Auto| Ice Silver | RS4 Grill and Fogs | Painted Calipers Gunmetal | R1 Concept Rotors Drilled\Slotted | Ceramic Pads | Audi Puddle Lights | LED Interior Lights | RS4 Pedals | ECS Drivetrain Mounts |Luft-Technik Intake | Red Coil Paks | Plasti-Dip Rear Emblems | Carista | Spacers 12.5Front 25Rear | ST Coilovers | Ceramic Paint Protection | Lamin-X Tail Light Tint GunSmoke |

  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    https://oemwolf.com/oem-parts/06h103495a.html
    A was replaced by E 9 years ago. Good luck finding one that's still on a shelf somewhere.

    https://parts.audiusa.com/p/Audi__/7...6H103495A.html
    AH is the current version of your black cap unit. So that's what you're going to find out there.
    2009 A4 Avant 2.0T quattro Prestige, 275k miles

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