Groundhog Day – Short to Plus: P2296 and P1653

[MACV]

Every morning my 2005 AUDI A6 3.2 with the engine cold, I start the vehicle and within 2 minutes (1 min. 45 seconds) she throws an ESP Fault with two codes P2296 (Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve;N276 Short to Plus and P1653 (Please check DTC Memory of ABS Controller). I could not find any other ABS codes. If I am accelerating when the Fault occurs I get a shutter, if I coast through it I don't feel much of an effect.

After she reaches full warm up and I turn it off/on she throws no more ESP Fault or codes and runs fine all day. Warm it up halfway and I get the Fault/codes again. VAG stores the two codes. If I clear the two codes they will not return the rest of the day otherwise the codes are stored even though she throws no more Faults. Next morning or if the engine cools completely, well I hope you saw the movie, it's Groundhog Day again.

AUDI and I have attacked this going after the P2296 without success. AUDI cleaned throttle valve, replaced HPFP, rewired from connector to HPFP. I replaced fuel filter, replaced High and Low Fuel Pressure Sensors, manually cleaned carbon Intake Valves, replaced fuel pressure limiting valve, tried another throttle body. Result is no change.

I am becoming convinced the ESP Fault/codes are somehow related possible due to a bad connector. Since it is temperature related would G62 Coolant Temperature sender (which I could not locate), or G410 Oil Temperature sender have an effect? Any ideas?

[Dave01.5Afour]

My guess is you have connector that isn't fully seated or the security clip on the connector is broken. Sometimes a broken or split wire will cause this sort of issue too. I doubt the coolant temp or oil temp sensors are the issue.

[daredevil1]

Did you figure out the problem?

[FLnative]

Sure would be nice if he found a solution. I'm having the same issues. Two hpfp's later and I still get p2296...

[Kevin1]

It was the OP's last post on the forum.

[FLnative]

Probably lucked out and got rid of the pile of crap like I should.


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[Kevin1]

Probably lucked out and got rid of the pile of crap like I should.


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What year, engine and mileage car are you dealing with?

[FLnative]

Same as OP, issue started about 85k. Two hpfp's, both fuel sensors, coolant temp sensor, map sensor, coil packs, fuel filter, and throttle body replaced.


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[FLnative]

Carbon clean out done as well


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[Kevin1]

You don't want to see the list of repairs on my 05 4.2. It will make you puke and tremble. I concluded that the car had a design life of 9 years and should have been sold at the 8 year mark. Of course I kept in 9.5 years and it broke my heart, and put a dent in my wallet. It was cheaper to buy a 2015 A6 TDI for cash than it was to continue to nurse along my beloved 4.2.

[FLnative]

These cars are just worthless long term. Once I'm even or right side up on the loan I'm going back to subaru.


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[MACV]

I filed the original post for Groundhog Day. I have not solved the problem but knowing others share my plight gives me comfort. This means it is not specific just to my vehicle.

What I now know: The fuses exist in about 4-5 locations but only one for the Fuel Pressure Regulator, located along firewall, driver side. Those fuses are covered and under plastic cowling but not hard to get to. It is the 10 fuse next to the 20 fuse that is the regulator. Sequence of fuses 10, 5, 5 ECM, 15, 15, 15, 15 ECM, 10 FPR, 20, blank. There are also two ABS and one ECM fuses on door side panels and labeled. My fuses tested ok

In about a week I plan to bring the car into my garage and take the top of the engine off to get to the high pressure regulator (N276) at the pump. I plan to test the wiring at least up to the fuse. Also I am extremely suspicious of the first connector up from the regulator which lies at the back of the engine and somewhat below the oil filter. (What asshole designer put the filter there?) The bundle of wires with the connector located below that filter housing are oiled which makes me suspicious of the connector due to sloppy oil changes. I had a Chrysler Lebaron with a severe miss that turned out to be the oil fouled fuel injectors connector so I plan to check and clean this connector.

Also Chilton Repair Content - Trouble Code P2296 says Possible Causes: ECM Fuses. Fuel Pressure Sensor. Check the wiring for a short circuit to each other, Battery (+), and Ground (GND). Check the electrical harness for damage, corrosion, lose or broken terminals. ECM.

I'm retired with six vehicles so it has not been a big rush for me. If I solve this I will post and hope others will if they get there first. I love the car when it runs right, can't stand the noise when the check engine goes off. Good luck.

[FLnative]

Thanks for the update, much appreciated. I'll take a look at the connector under the oil filter on mine as well.


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[Perlera]

Did you ever find the solution to this?

[MACV]

I filed the original post for Groundhog Day. I have not solved the problem and have learned to live with my first and last AUDI. It's all about the temperature. It sits when its' very cold. When it's warmed up she's fine. I use a scan tool as necessary to clear codes that may hamper any warm up. I am waiting for my wife to make up her mind on a new vehicle and my AUDI will be included as a trade-in. No love lost.

I agree with Kevin1, if German Engineering can program a vehicle to beat emission control standards they can program in life expectancy.

[Perlera]

I found the long looked for solution. The code is p2296 short to plus. Short meaning a short circuit on the motherboard of the ECM which has to be replaced, the problem is not mechanically and solely electric. If you take out your ecm and take it apart you will find where is shorted. I checked all the wiring and vacuums. And even had parts in and out before realizing the problem was electric rather than mechanical.

[RobBanks]

I've got this same code and because of this thread have been wondering where to start.....could it be a sensor,the hpfp,a blown fuse? If i'm
hearing the last post you've fixed the code by checking your ecm? I'm trying to get a game plan together to attack this and so far I've used
vagcom to check blocks 103 and 106....i've got 6.6 bar at idle and a 0 rail pressure reading. Car runs ok but runs out of fuel up top. From what
i just read i think i'm going to have to rethink this. I was going to change the g247 sensor and try to check the hpfp while i'm in there. Car has
166k on it and i don't really want to start just throwing money at it.

[MACV]

Perlera if I pull out the ECM and open it up what should I see to confirm the problem? Have you replaced the ECM as a unit and did this resolve the problem? At what cost? Thanks, comforting just to know what is going on!

[TylerD]

Yes, please help Perlera. With the ECM removed and open how can you tell if it's shorted out? Do you have to go to the dealer to replace the ECM, or can you do it with VCDS?

I've just developed this problem at 172k on my 05.5 A4 3.2. Thanks for the solution!

[TylerD]

For the record I installed a used ECM and it solved the problem. I found it on eBay for about $100 with a 6 month warranty.

I had http://www.speedosolutions.com clone my original ECM, so replacement was plug and play. The only other option would have to bought a new ECM through the dealer and had them install it. VCDS or other VAG-TACHO type software will not adapt a used ECM to B7+ cars.

BTW, speedosolutions is awesome. The first used ECM I bought had corroded contacts and did not work properly when installed. He cloned a second one at no charge.

After replacing the ECM you do have to perform a Throttle Body Alignment with VCDS.

Thanks again for the solution Perlera!

[MACV]

TylerD ---- thanks for the much appreciated update. I had to first replace my upper timing chain tensioners and the left parking brake wiring harness but finally last week ordered a used ECM on EBAY which is due on Monday. Nice to know I'm on the right track.

I'm working with a 2005 A6 3.2 Quattro and per my research has no Immobilizer and as such "may be" plug and play. The ECM I bought has the same part number (4F1 910 559 B) from same vehicle (2005 A6 3.2 Quattro). Did not know about the Throttle Body Alignment, good to know.

I will also post my outcome. Thanks

[MACV]

As promised here is a progress update on my 2005 A6 3.2 Quattro using TylerD post for guidance. I removed my original ECM using both the Heating and Cutting techniques found at http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Audi/B7...emoval_DIY.pdf All bolt heads must be cut to use a screwdriver for removal, don't bother with vice grips. I used the Heating Technique on the replacement (more room to work) and the Cutting Method on the original putting a hacksaw blade under the bracket to protect the original unit and wires from a mistaken cut. The cut is actually to the top right of the bracket and both bolts direct to the ECM must be removed. My ECM part numbers matched, used only on 2005 and 2006 Audi A6s.

I had read that since I had no car/key symbol on my instrument panel I had no Immobilizer, not true. When I put the replacement unit in I could not get it to start and pulled the following code 02241 Engine Control Module; Immobilizer Data not Adapted. So i returned to the original unit without any new issues. I am now contacting http://www.speedosolutions.com to clone the replacement but the hard work is now done.

More to come.

[MACV]

My compliments to speed solutions in a quick turnaround in cloning my $60 EBAY ECM. The cloned ECM was put in and worked, "plug and play", perhaps because I purchased a matching part number. I'm now 3 days without throwing a code, sweet. My thanks to everyone who posted and worked to fixing this problem especially TylerD.

[TylerD]

Nice! Glad it worked for you. It seems we have a confirmed solution for this code.

[Derek R]

I have had the exact problems and had no solutions until I ran across this forum. Already bought a used ecm off ebay and will be sending it to speedo solutions soon.

Just some insight for anyone who might still have this problem. My first solution to this problem was a temporary fix. I thought ultimately I would buy a used ecm anyway because thats the most economical option, it wouldnt matter too much if I damaged the ecu. I took out the board and heated it with a hair dryer and reinstalled it. It worked for almost a week but then code came back. Then i tried a heat gun reflow of the board and thought that worked but then codes came back a couple days later.

Simply put, you probably just need a replacement ecu. The car only threw the code when it was below 50 degrees outside.

I’m probably beating a dead horse here but if anyone else experiences a temperature related issue this might be your problem.

[MACV]

As the original post it's time for a followup. On 10/04/16 I reported my fix, at that time 3 days without throwing a code. Now at 1/5/19 my Audi has gone 2 years 3 months without the problem reoccurring or repeating the code. My thanks to all who provided help along the way to make this happen. Good luck to those struggling with this issue.

[Dalloviche]

Power supply relay is the issue uf you have now breaks in wire it's crazy Audi couldn't figure that out make sure you dont inseat fuse and relays putting cover back on when you closing up the holder with cover

[B76767]

As the original post it's time for a followup. On 10/04/16 I reported my fix, at that time 3 days without throwing a code. Now at 1/5/19 my Audi has gone 2 years 3 months without the problem reoccurring or repeating the code. My thanks to all who provided help along the way to make this happen. Good luck to those struggling with this issue.

Hey I'm having the exact same issue except on a vw cc with the 3.6. I've replaced everything as you did and even did pump in the tank. I originally thought my computer was a issue so I sent it to a company that repairs them. They said they plugged it into there diagnostic tool and it wasn't giving any codes, but they never opened it up. Could there still be a issue inside ecm?

I cut the signal wire that goes into pin 19 on ecm for the signal of the n276 sensor and when the wire isnt hooked up to the ecm it gives off 13.5 volts off the signal wire that does run to ecm if hooked up when running. The red wire that supplies the n276 sensor with power is getting 13.5 volts aswell.

My question is should the signal wire to ecm from n276 sensor be giving off that kind of voltage sending to ecm? Would that mean my 3rd n276 sensor is bad or is there likely a issue in ecm aswell?

- - - Updated - - -

I have had the exact problems and had no solutions until I ran across this forum. Already bought a used ecm off ebay and will be sending it to speedo solutions soon.

Just some insight for anyone who might still have this problem. My first solution to this problem was a temporary fix. I thought ultimately I would buy a used ecm anyway because thats the most economical option, it wouldnt matter too much if I damaged the ecu. I took out the board and heated it with a hair dryer and reinstalled it. It worked for almost a week but then code came back. Then i tried a heat gun reflow of the board and thought that worked but then codes came back a couple days later.

Simply put, you probably just need a replacement ecu. The car only threw the code when it was below 50 degrees outside.

I’m probably beating a dead horse here but if anyone else experiences a temperature related issue this might be your problem.

Hey I'm having the exact same issue except on a vw cc with the 3.6. I've replaced everything as you did and even did pump in the tank. I originally thought my computer was a issue so I sent it to a company that repairs them. They said they plugged it into there diagnostic tool and it wasn't giving any codes, but they never opened it up. Could there still be a issue inside ecm?

I cut the signal wire that goes into pin 19 on ecm for the signal of the n276 sensor and when the wire isnt hooked up to the ecm it gives off 13.5 volts off the signal wire that does run to ecm if hooked up when running. The red wire that supplies the n276 sensor with power is getting 13.5 volts aswell.

My question is should the signal wire to ecm from n276 sensor be giving off that kind of voltage sending to ecm? Would that mean my 3rd n276 sensor is bad or is there likely a issue in ecm aswell?

[B76767]

For the record I installed a used ECM and it solved the problem. I found it on eBay for about $100 with a 6 month warranty.

I had http://www.speedosolutions.com clone my original ECM, so replacement was plug and play. The only other option would have to bought a new ECM through the dealer and had them install it. VCDS or other VAG-TACHO type software will not adapt a used ECM to B7+ cars.

BTW, speedosolutions is awesome. The first used ECM I bought had corroded contacts and did not work properly when installed. He cloned a second one at no charge.

After replacing the ECM you do have to perform a Throttle Body Alignment with VCDS.

Thanks again for the solution Perlera!

Hey I'm having the exact same issue except on a vw cc with the 3.6. I've replaced everything as you did and even did pump in the tank. I originally thought my computer was a issue so I sent it to a company that repairs them. They said they plugged it into there diagnostic tool and it wasn't giving any codes, but they never opened it up. Could there still be a issue inside ecm?

I cut the signal wire that goes into pin 19 on ecm for the signal of the n276 sensor and when the wire isnt hooked up to the ecm it gives off 13.5 volts off the signal wire that does run to ecm if hooked up when running. The red wire that supplies the n276 sensor with power is getting 13.5 volts aswell.

My question is should the signal wire to ecm from n276 sensor be giving off that kind of voltage sending to ecm? Would that mean my 3rd n276 sensor is bad or is there likely a issue in ecm aswell?

[B76767]

I found the long looked for solution. The code is p2296 short to plus. Short meaning a short circuit on the motherboard of the ECM which has to be replaced, the problem is not mechanically and solely electric. If you take out your ecm and take it apart you will find where is shorted. I checked all the wiring and vacuums. And even had parts in and out before realizing the problem was electric rather than mechanical.

Hey I'm having the exact same issue except on a vw cc with the 3.6. I've replaced everything as you did and even did pump in the tank. I originally thought my computer was a issue so I sent it to a company that repairs them. They said they plugged it into there diagnostic tool and it wasn't giving any codes, but they never opened it up. Could there still be a issue inside ecm?

I cut the signal wire that goes into pin 19 on ecm for the signal of the n276 sensor and when the wire isnt hooked up to the ecm it gives off 13.5 volts off the signal wire that does run to ecm if hooked up when running. The red wire that supplies the n276 sensor with power is getting 13.5 volts aswell.

My question is should the signal wire to ecm from n276 sensor be giving off that kind of voltage sending to ecm? Would that mean my 3rd n276 sensor is bad or is there likely a issue in ecm aswell?

[TylerD]

Hey I'm having the exact same issue except on a vw cc with the 3.6. I've replaced everything as you did and even did pump in the tank. I originally thought my computer was a issue so I sent it to a company that repairs them. They said they plugged it into there diagnostic tool and it wasn't giving any codes, but they never opened it up. Could there still be a issue inside ecm?

I cut the signal wire that goes into pin 19 on ecm for the signal of the n276 sensor and when the wire isnt hooked up to the ecm it gives off 13.5 volts off the signal wire that does run to ecm if hooked up when running. The red wire that supplies the n276 sensor with power is getting 13.5 volts aswell.

My question is should the signal wire to ecm from n276 sensor be giving off that kind of voltage sending to ecm? Would that mean my 3rd n276 sensor is bad or is there likely a issue in ecm aswell?

I don't remember the details of all of this, but my ECM would go for months without throwing a code. I don't think you sending your ECM in for repair and them not seeing a code indicates much. Cloning my ECM to a used one off of eBay permanently solved the problem. The problem is intermittent due to a crack to a solder joint in the ECM that fluctuates with temperature or other unknown variables. Trying to trouble shoot this without first replacing your ECM is going to give you brain damage.

[MACV]

I can't speak to issues encountered other than what i posted. I tried to summarize my issues and solution developed with information provided by others. On 10/04/16 I reported my fix. Now at 10/28/21 my Audi has gone 5 years 24 days without the problem reoccurring or repeating the code and I truly hope it never comes back. I still have the car and love it.
Good luck, its truly a nightmare to deal with.

[sedefcha]

https://youtu.be/bMgnGkLCtOo

I replaced the driver and car has no more problems with P2296.

[Avantly]

In case anyone is wondering exactly what happens here, in my experience it seems that at least 25% of the time when the HPFP fuel metering solenoid (N276) develops an intermittent open circuit, it results in a high voltage kickback that damages the ECU output. I have purchased the driver IC for this output some time ago (cheap and still available) but I have yet to verify whether replacing that IC corrects the problem, or if the output on the ECU microcontroller is actually damaged. The driver IC is just a simple smart MOSFET and it is possible that the high voltage passed through it and went upstream to the microcontroller in which case I'd just scrap the ECM as I'm not going to waste my time trying to reball a new one onto an old Simos like this.

You can clone these Simos 6.22 ECU's with a cheap ebay tool if you are so inclined (Such as an old KTAG clone with the fixed DLL's from one of the many tuning forums or chinese blogs).