The tools needed:
-Flat head screwdriver(to remove the belly pan screws, and to help pry off the oil pan).
- 1/4" ratchet
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" 4" extension
- 10mm wrench
- Rigid putty knife
- Dead blow hammer
- Ultra Black RTV gasket maker
- Lots of rags & paper towels
- Can of brake cleaner
- Spray bottle of Simple Green or other similar cleaner
Alright, step one is to remove the belly pan on your car, and to drain the oil and change the oil filter. I won't include pics of this, because if you can't change oil in your car, you shouldn't be attempting this repair.
Here is our oil pan. Notice that we have an oil level sensor on one side of the pan.
Using the flathead screwdriver, gently pry off the oil level sensor by placing the tip of the screwdriver into the area surrounded by yellow, while pulling outward with your other hand. Tuck the sensor's loose wiring into the bumper somewhere so it's out of the way. Then, remove the three 10mm bolts from the oil level sensor and remove the sensor from the oil pan and place aside.
Using the 10 mm wrench(or 10mm socket), remove the nut that holds the hard line bracket.
Pop the hard line out of the bracket. You will need to move this line in order to access the oil pan bolts that lie below it.
Remove the 10mm oil pan bolts, making sure to pull down the hard line in order to gain access to the bolts below it. The oil pan won't fall down, because it's held on by the original gasket.
Using the dead blow hammer, tap the putty knife under a corner of the oil pan. Then use the flat head screwdriver to pry off the oil pan.
Carefully remove the oil pan. Here we see what mine looked like.
Yuck, some sludge was embedded into the pan on one side. Some other burnt oil was located on other parts.
And here we finally get to see the bottom of the oil pump, and our first look at the small screen on the oil pickup. It's about the size of a silver dollar, and was smaller than I thought it would be. No real visible gunk obstructing the screen.
A close look at the screen.
Using the brake cleaner, spray generous portions onto the oil pan and clean it up using the paper towels.
No photo for this next step, but I sprayed the brake cleaner up into the screen, and a huge blob of oil fell down. I kept spraying brake cleaner into the screen until there was no more oil pouring down. I suspect the first couple of blobs were responsible for my red oil pressure light coming on.
Clean the old gasket material off of the oil pan cover and the bottom of the block, so you have a nice, clean surface for your new gasket.
Finally, create a new gasket on the oil pan using the black RTV gasket maker. Make sure to spread gasket maker everywhere that the pan will contact the bottom of the block, including where the bolts will go.
Install the oil pan back onto the block, being careful to get it aligned with the holes and the plastic parts hanging down from the oil pump. Install the oil pan bolts finger tight, then wait another hour before tightening the bolts to about 20 ft. lbs of torque. Just make sure it's snug and reasonably tight, but don't go gorilla and crank them down.
Install the hard pipe bracket back onto the pan, and pop the hard pipe back into the bracket.
Replace the belly pan.
The RTV gasket will be dry in an hour, but will take 24 hrs to cure, so I would leave the car sit overnight and then fill it full of new oil in the morning.
That's it! Hopefully, cleaning out the oil pump screen will solve the red light coming on. If it doesn't, then it's time to check the oil pressure using an oil pressure tester.
His: 2012 Moonlight Blue Metallic S5 Prestige
Hers: 2014 Lava Gray Metallic Q5 2.0T
Son's: 2005.5 Imola Yellow B7 S4 4.2 Sedan 
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Originally Posted by Justin2211
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