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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings DangerBruno's Avatar
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    2001 allroad radiator fan failure

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    Hey all, my lovely and beautiful baby had a little bit of a fit today and the fan (drivers side) that runs constantly with the engine decided to friggin explode and shoot blades all over. One of which punctured my radiator! Great day for me. So now I'm gunna need to change that fan (which I'm not sure exactly what it's called) and also my radiator. I'm a fan of replacing other things while I'm in there. Any ideas of upgrades/replacements to do while I'm in there? I was thinking maybe a front mount inter cooler (if it fits). Any other ideas and guidance is GREATLY APPRECIATED. This forum has saved my life before and I hope it will again. Btw she has 119k on her with a new timing belt and that's pretty much it. All stock everything. Guide me oh mighty forum gods!


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  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings estomax's Avatar
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    07 A6 Avant 3.2L, 13 Leaf, 08 Titan
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    this is another reminder for everyone to look their fan over for cracks.

    i think a lot of people have gotten away running without that fan even. i remember reading another thread about this same issue. if you do put a fan on there, get an A6/S4 fan clutch and fan, from reading those are less prone to blowing up than the allroad ones (they are different so you can't reuse your allroad fan clutch)

    if someone makes an all aluminum radiator for our car (race radiator?) then i would say you can easily skip putting another fan on.

    cheers
    Marko
    2007 A6 Avant 3.2L Black/Black, 265k miles

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings DangerBruno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by estomax View Post
    this is another reminder for everyone to look their fan over for cracks.

    i think a lot of people have gotten away running without that fan even. i remember reading another thread about this same issue.

    if someone makes an all aluminum radiator for our car (race radiator?) then i would say you can easily skip putting another fan on.

    cheers
    Marko
    Yeah that would be nice! But the least of my worries in this repair is the 40$ fan. Should I replace the entire assembly? Or just the physical fan? And what is a good reliable aftermarket radiator? Don't forget to give me your 2 cents on the front mount IC :)


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  4. #4

    2001 allroad radiator fan failure

    JHM electric fan kit is an option, I got one but haven't installed it yet as I'm in the process of a big build/swap project.

    I'll let JHM do the explaining: http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalo...27t-p-101.html

    As far as front mounts go, side mounts have been proven to be more efficient than front mounts on 2.7 cars, people usually do front mount for the look. Options for upgraded sidemounts are SRM(silly rabbit motorsports) and ER(evolution raceworks?) and I'm sure there are others I'm not thinking of.

    You could also change the thermal switch that controls the coolant after-run pump, to quote 034Motorsport:

    "This lower temp after-run pump switch will help keep your S4 running cool and prolong the life of your turbos. This switch lowers the activation temperature of your after-run system to 198*F from 250*F and helps cool the car quicker after a shut down."

    http://store.034motorsport.com/therm...lant-pump.html

    Trying to think of coolant system upgrades lol. Good luck!

  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings DangerBruno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NuGGet_PuFFer View Post
    JHM electric fan kit is an option, I got one but haven't installed it yet as I'm in the process of a big build/swap project.

    I'll let JHM do the explaining: http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalo...27t-p-101.html

    As far as front mounts go, side mounts have been proven to be more efficient than front mounts on 2.7 cars, people usually do front mount for the look. Options for upgraded sidemounts are SRM(silly rabbit motorsports) and ER(evolution raceworks?) and I'm sure there are others I'm not thinking of.

    You could also change the thermal switch that controls the coolant after-run pump, to quote 034Motorsport:

    "This lower temp after-run pump switch will help keep your S4 running cool and prolong the life of your turbos. This switch lowers the activation temperature of your after-run system to 198*F from 250*F and helps cool the car quicker after a shut down."

    http://store.034motorsport.com/therm...lant-pump.html

    Trying to think of coolant system upgrades lol. Good luck!
    Thanks for that, indefinitely like that electric fan upgrade. That thermal switch, where exactly is that located?

    Now as far as the front mount, how much of a difference is it really going to make? If I'm being honest, I really like that look... Although I've heard fitment is an issue due to the front electric fan. But is that one you posted that much thinner? Think I could get the front mount over it? I want the front mount to be pretty low.


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  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings
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    thermal switch is on the lower radiator hose next to radiator on passenger side. You can swa p it quickly with a new one but you will still lose some coolant as it is all th eway at the bottom of the circuit so be prepared with some G12....
    Have to change mine is turns the fan on all the time and the coolant never gets to set temperature in low load conditions. Pisses me off to see my gauge not exactly at 12 oclock!!!!

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings 4rings2turbos's Avatar
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    I actually removed my fan and clutch (leaving the pulley to protect TB area) for fear of it exploding and a little less inertia for the drive belt. I plan on the JHM kit but I want to see how it goes without it too. Apparently S4 guys have reported going without it without issue. (I wouldn't try it if I lived in the South or Southwest though.)
    OEM+ work in progress allroad
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    @fourings | Build

  8. #8
    Established Member Two Rings DangerBruno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4rings2turbos View Post
    I actually removed my fan and clutch (leaving the pulley to protect TB area) for fear of it exploding and a little less inertia for the drive belt. I plan on the JHM kit but I want to see how it goes without it too. Apparently S4 guys have reported going without it without issue. (I wouldn't try it if I lived in the South or Southwest though.)
    It doesn't get real hot here in northeastern Pennsylvania. And no traffic really. Also I always have coolant with me..,always.

    Also what do you think about jhm front mount IC? Ever seen one on an 01 ar? Any idea for mounting locations of so? Should I post this in a seperate area?

    I'm a noon to posting, but you guys have been secretly helping me build my baby. So I appreciate all of your input!


    -danger


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  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings DoomedHatch's Avatar
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    I have a JHM FMIC and Forge Splitters sitting at home waiting to be installed also have the EFK ( Electric fan) On order. I plan on doing it all with my timing belt change when I get back stateside.

    I absolutely LOVE the look of any car with a gigantic fmic on it, I don't know why have always been a fan, But if your not running high boost the FMIC will be just fine I say go for it.
    Now even High Boost cars can deal with the FMIC I spoke with someone at either JHM,Speedline or 034 I forget which shop but they had one on there shops S4, and they said it only raised the temp by 5* so its not much, and it does its Job, If your looking to keep temps down, Get a intake manifold spacer, to reduce heat being sucked back into the intake.

    The Fan, is on Back order sadly.

    Now if your looking to get some stuff fixed in there while your there, IDK what you have up grade the TB Boot. Maybe DV's and Bi-Pipes. youll be in the area for all that. Thermal switch is also a good idea.


    But really while your in there, do a little cleaning, I know how messy these cars get, and cleaning up the area can always improve looks and future trouble shooting.


    http://store.034motorsport.com/produ...8l-30v-v6.html

  10. #10
    Established Member Two Rings DangerBruno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoomedHatch View Post
    I have a JHM FMIC and Forge Splitters sitting at home waiting to be installed also have the EFK ( Electric fan) On order. I plan on doing it all with my timing belt change when I get back stateside.

    I absolutely LOVE the look of any car with a gigantic fmic on it, I don't know why have always been a fan, But if your not running high boost the FMIC will be just fine I say go for it.
    Now even High Boost cars can deal with the FMIC I spoke with someone at either JHM,Speedline or 034 I forget which shop but they had one on there shops S4, and they said it only raised the temp by 5* so its not much, and it does its Job, If your looking to keep temps down, Get a intake manifold spacer, to reduce heat being sucked back into the intake.

    The Fan, is on Back order sadly.

    Now if your looking to get some stuff fixed in there while your there, IDK what you have up grade the TB Boot. Maybe DV's and Bi-Pipes. youll be in the area for all that. Thermal switch is also a good idea.


    But really while your in there, do a little cleaning, I know how messy these cars get, and cleaning up the area can always improve looks and future trouble shooting.


    http://store.034motorsport.com/produ...8l-30v-v6.html
    I have always been a big fan of the huge FMIC myself. With my black accents I think it will pop nicely! Do you think it's worth me selling the stock SMICs? Also how are you planning on mounting yours? Any tips or advice on a placement.

    Also I always wanted BOVs, now I get that it's played out and that a lot of people hate them, but what are my options? I get that I will lose boost, but I don't think that it's gonna be very significant. I'm running stock baby k03s. Also I've heard about Hybrid DVs that add some more sound without the loss of boost. I want more sound from my turbos for sure.

    I'm gunna get in there and clean shit for sure!


    Also should I even bother to replace the shroud for the blower fan that originally broke? I think that is actually the cause of the initial break. I may not even put another one on depending on some more research.

    I'm definitely gunna look into a intake manifold stuff. Thanks for the link and the info!

    -danger




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  11. #11
    Established Member Two Rings DoomedHatch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DangerBruno View Post
    I have always been a big fan of the huge FMIC myself. With my black accents I think it will pop nicely! Do you think it's worth me selling the stock SMICs? Also how are you planning on mounting yours? Any tips or advice on a placement.

    Also I always wanted BOVs, now I get that it's played out and that a lot of people hate them, but what are my options? I get that I will lose boost, but I don't think that it's gonna be very significant. I'm running stock baby k03s. Also I've heard about Hybrid DVs that add some more sound without the loss of boost. I want more sound from my turbos for sure.

    I'm gunna get in there and clean shit for sure!


    Also should I even bother to replace the shroud for the blower fan that originally broke? I think that is actually the cause of the initial break. I may not even put another one on depending on some more research.

    I'm definitely gunna look into a intake manifold stuff. Thanks for the link and the info!

    -danger




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    JHM's Allroad specific kit, fits with no issue or cutting or anything. they have not had any issues from what I have read. some people are out there cutting the bumper supports and making it fit, but they give everything to make it all fit, and even supply the extra silicone house to fit the FMIC to stock right side turbo. the length is different for the A6 and Allroad from what I have read.

    Now they recommend doing a power steering cooler move, the kit is 33$ I just ordered it with my EFK, so Its something extra you might want. and just moves it out of the way.

    BOV- I love BOV's I have run many fast turbo cars, and that's just a sound I have grown to LOVE. My AR is a TIP, so BOV's on a Auto can be funky. also depending on how the car runs certain BOVs can cause more problems then anything. ( I had a 06 Evo pushing 35psi on stock turbo, and ran a real HKS SSQV and for some reason with that set up every time I made a right hand turn car would die out, Needless to say I bought a Forge BOV, and it was a champ. never had issues) But back to this, I ordered the Forge Splitter BOV, there like $170 JHM also sells them, and you can adjust how much air goes back into the intake as that's what the car is looking for. You tube has a few Vids of it, Just search 2.7 forge or something like that, and you can see.
    Depending if yours is a TIP or 6Speed, is what you can get, I am very Biased towards Forge Stuff, and synapse as they can hold up to a 100PSI so they got that going for them.

    Def clean it all up - that's one thing I cant wait to do, I had a bad VC gasket and oil was EVERYWHERE! So when I replaced it, I didn't have time to clean mine up, and when I replaced my Alternator, I didn't have time to clean everything as I wanted to, I was using a Auto shop lift and it was just not enough time.


    If you Upgrade to a EFK, just get rid of the shroud. it comes with everything needed. the EFK would be placed somewhere in there and it would be a all new system.


    The Intake manifold spacer deff seems like a good thing, I have not ordered one yet, but I do want one. as the 2.7 GETS SO FREAKING HOT! I am surprised it can with stand that much heat soak. I thought my past built cars got hot, but I was wrong.

  12. #12
    Established Member Two Rings DangerBruno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoomedHatch View Post
    JHM's Allroad specific kit, fits with no issue or cutting or anything. they have not had any issues from what I have read. some people are out there cutting the bumper supports and making it fit, but they give everything to make it all fit, and even supply the extra silicone house to fit the FMIC to stock right side turbo. the length is different for the A6 and Allroad from what I have read.

    Now they recommend doing a power steering cooler move, the kit is 33$ I just ordered it with my EFK, so Its something extra you might want. and just moves it out of the way.

    BOV- I love BOV's I have run many fast turbo cars, and that's just a sound I have grown to LOVE. My AR is a TIP, so BOV's on a Auto can be funky. also depending on how the car runs certain BOVs can cause more problems then anything. ( I had a 06 Evo pushing 35psi on stock turbo, and ran a real HKS SSQV and for some reason with that set up every time I made a right hand turn car would die out, Needless to say I bought a Forge BOV, and it was a champ. never had issues) But back to this, I ordered the Forge Splitter BOV, there like $170 JHM also sells them, and you can adjust how much air goes back into the intake as that's what the car is looking for. You tube has a few Vids of it, Just search 2.7 forge or something like that, and you can see.
    Depending if yours is a TIP or 6Speed, is what you can get, I am very Biased towards Forge Stuff, and synapse as they can hold up to a 100PSI so they got that going for them.

    Def clean it all up - that's one thing I cant wait to do, I had a bad VC gasket and oil was EVERYWHERE! So when I replaced it, I didn't have time to clean mine up, and when I replaced my Alternator, I didn't have time to clean everything as I wanted to, I was using a Auto shop lift and it was just not enough time.


    If you Upgrade to a EFK, just get rid of the shroud. it comes with everything needed. the EFK would be placed somewhere in there and it would be a all new system.


    The Intake manifold spacer deff seems like a good thing, I have not ordered one yet, but I do want one. as the 2.7 GETS SO FREAKING HOT! I am surprised it can with stand that much heat soak. I thought my past built cars got hot, but I was wrong.
    Yeah my allroad is a tip as well. I don't know if that effects having BOV, I always ALWAYS drive in tip mode. So I stay In gear a lot and let the rpms die back down. And I let it assist braking like a manual. I don't know if that's bad for the tip but I don't care, I plan on a 6mt swap and frankenturbos sometime before next summer. So if I blow my tranny it only helps my time frame speed up :) although selling my factory tip will DEFINITELY help differ the cost of the swap.

    Is the factory fan going to have to be moved? I'm trying to stay under 750 for this and I have to buy a new radiator, as that is the main point of this endeavor. The EFK kit is something I want..but can I attach that with out radiator assembly removal? It looks like I have enough room to put that fan in with the assembly on. I could be wrong though.

    Also if the 2.7 gets so hot should I definitely get another blower fan? I live in NE Pennsylvania, gets kinda got for 3 months tops then back to shite weather, I do drive her hard though. I'm thinking of just putting it on because I'm in there anyways. I mean it's 40$ but I don't want it to friggin break again. That's hogwash.

    Thanks!

    -danger





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  13. #13
    Established Member Two Rings DoomedHatch's Avatar
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    I would stick with a DV's if you are TIP, The Forge Splitter is nice, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Whe06L3FT0 the vid is bad quality but its a idea.

    If you wanna see all you have to do to instrall the EFK open up the PDF that JHM has on there website, I cant get mine to work cuz my winzip expired and it wont let me... :(

    I have yet to do it due to the fact im over seas. I have seen radiators go for a decent price, so youll be able to stay there, The Radiators are $81-275 Plus EFK is $315 so that's roughly $590 ish Plus G12.

    I don't think youll need another fan, I think this will be all you need,it only gets Hot cuz everything is crammed in there, and its a PITA! to keep such a small area hot.

    Also your gonna remove the whole Viscous Clutch Fan, everything will be gone, SO you will just have then one fan, nothing else. there.

  14. #14
    Established Member Two Rings DangerBruno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoomedHatch View Post
    I would stick with a DV's if you are TIP, The Forge Splitter is nice, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Whe06L3FT0 the vid is bad quality but its a idea.

    If you wanna see all you have to do to instrall the EFK open up the PDF that JHM has on there website, I cant get mine to work cuz my winzip expired and it wont let me... :(

    I have yet to do it due to the fact im over seas. I have seen radiators go for a decent price, so youll be able to stay there, The Radiators are $81-275 Plus EFK is $315 so that's roughly $590 ish Plus G12.

    I don't think youll need another fan, I think this will be all you need,it only gets Hot cuz everything is crammed in there, and its a PITA! to keep such a small area hot.

    Also your gonna remove the whole Viscous Clutch Fan, everything will be gone, SO you will just have then one fan, nothing else. there.
    What about fan on bumper side of radiator assembly? Is that part of ac unit?

    Also if I delete the blower fan, do I have to get the EFK? At this point it might be easier to just replace old blower with new better built one. Much cheaper option. I was gunna do a FMIC and EFK, but if might be more reasonable to just replace what's broken (blower and radiator) and spend more money on the FORGE hybrid valves and/or headlights.

    Also I've had an epic exhaust leak for awhile now, I might just spend the money from the EFK on the SSAC down pipe kit and do a muffler delete.

    I'm looking at maybe killing all my birds with 1 to 2 stones haha.

    Also do you think it's really ok to put an 85$ ebay radiator in my car?

    Thanks

    -danger

  15. #15
    Established Member Two Rings DoomedHatch's Avatar
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    Danger,

    The fan on the front side of the radiator? I belive that fan is the AC fan I don't recommend deleting that one unless your gonna pull your whole ac and delete it.
    When your taking about blower fan are you talkin about the fan infront of the Big Viscous clutch one? if so, If you just replace it, you wont need a EFK, now if you delete the BIG one, that you will need a EFK for. also IDK how well it would cool everything off if you just remove the fan and not install a new one, I would imagine a over heating issue.

    If your exhaust is leaking, and you have funds for the DP's SSAC is something you should look into. delete the stock one, install 3in DP's let those suckers breath lol. and don't deal with the flex pipe or anything else.

    Now On the Ebay radiator, they can be good and they can be bad. I had one on my Turboed Civic, and it was a good radiator, but have it pressure tested before install as mine when it was tested it failed cuz one of the welds broke and I had to get it rewelded but it was a great radiator other then that little issue.
    03 AR TIP - Stage??? /Exhaust/FMIC/Coilovers/Bi-Pipes/EFK/Wheels/Tuned/93MM Intake/

    /Looking for BEL DP'S/

    IG: awesomeelvis

  16. #16
    Established Member Two Rings DangerBruno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoomedHatch View Post
    Danger,

    The fan on the front side of the radiator? I belive that fan is the AC fan I don't recommend deleting that one unless your gonna pull your whole ac and delete it.
    When your taking about blower fan are you talkin about the fan infront of the Big Viscous clutch one? if so, If you just replace it, you wont need a EFK, now if you delete the BIG one, that you will need a EFK for. also IDK how well it would cool everything off if you just remove the fan and not install a new one, I would imagine a over heating issue.

    If your exhaust is leaking, and you have funds for the DP's SSAC is something you should look into. delete the stock one, install 3in DP's let those suckers breath lol. and don't deal with the flex pipe or anything else.

    Now On the Ebay radiator, they can be good and they can be bad. I had one on my Turboed Civic, and it was a good radiator, but have it pressure tested before install as mine when it was tested it failed cuz one of the welds broke and I had to get it rewelded but it was a great radiator other then that little issue.
    Ok so I ran my car today to see if the electric fan on the engine side of the radiator would turn on, it didn't. Although I wasn't driving and I was leaking water profusely. But the thermostat never went passed center line. I didn't drive it but I ran it for at least a half hour or until all the water leaked out and it started with the temp warning in my dash.

    Also my air conditioner was dead. No cold air, is that due to my radiator leak? Or could there be more damaged in here then I think? The air conditioner side fan was running and running GOOOOD. I installed a brand new water pump and thermostat recently so cooling is on point!

    At what point does the electric fan turn on? Could a piece have flew off and cut the wiring to it? If so, can I test if it even turns in somehow before I diagnose?

    I'm just hoping there isn't more in here I need to worry about.

    On the down pipes I called ssac and the guy was super cool and I'm definitely getting them, and you will see a great write up on the install and outcome.


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  17. #17
    Established Member Two Rings DoomedHatch's Avatar
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    Well check around for any broken wires. anything could have happened when the fan exploded.

    The radiator wouldn't have anything to do with the AC, the AC gets cool by the little radiator infront of the radiator, the condenser. and it has to get air threw it to get cold air out, has it worked before? maybe your out of Freon.

    I am not sure what temp the fan turns on at.

    I have shoot a few Emails to SSAC and they are pretty good guys just sucks they don't make a downpipe for my car :( SAD DAY!
    03 AR TIP - Stage??? /Exhaust/FMIC/Coilovers/Bi-Pipes/EFK/Wheels/Tuned/93MM Intake/

    /Looking for BEL DP'S/

    IG: awesomeelvis

  18. #18
    Established Member Two Rings DangerBruno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoomedHatch View Post
    Well check around for any broken wires. anything could have happened when the fan exploded.

    The radiator wouldn't have anything to do with the AC, the AC gets cool by the little radiator infront of the radiator, the condenser. and it has to get air threw it to get cold air out, has it worked before? maybe your out of Freon.

    I am not sure what temp the fan turns on at.

    I have shoot a few Emails to SSAC and they are pretty good guys just sucks they don't make a downpipe for my car :( SAD DAY!
    I'm pretty sure my AC worked prior to this. I mean it wasn't ice cold, but it worked.

    Could the exploding fan have ruptured an AC line? Or is it all pretty much held inside the AC unit?

    I guess I may not know until I get that bumper off and dig in.


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  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings Vinchenzo51's Avatar
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    Do you have an "Econ" button in your HVAC controls?

    If the Econ button is lit, that means your AC compressor is turned off. If you press the Econ button to turn it off, and it immediately or shortly turns itself back on again, that means you are low on refrigerant (or whatever they pump in there now adays).

    If its just "not as cold as it was", you might just need it flushed and refilled anyway.

    A/C line run from the top left of the condenser (no where near the viscous fan) and the others run along the bottom of the motor under/around the oil pan. When they flush/fill your AC, they generally put dye in to check for leaks. Might want to give that a try too.

    I'm too lazy to read the entire rest of the thread, hope that^ helps. I'll see if I remember to check this thread later for your fan issue lol.

  20. #20
    Established Member Two Rings DangerBruno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vinchenzo51 View Post
    Do you have an "Econ" button in your HVAC controls?

    If the Econ button is lit, that means your AC compressor is turned off. If you press the Econ button to turn it off, and it immediately or shortly turns itself back on again, that means you are low on refrigerant (or whatever they pump in there now adays).

    If its just "not as cold as it was", you might just need it flushed and refilled anyway.

    A/C line run from the top left of the condenser (no where near the viscous fan) and the others run along the bottom of the motor under/around the oil pan. When they flush/fill your AC, they generally put dye in to check for leaks. Might want to give that a try too.

    I'm too lazy to read the entire rest of the thread, hope that^ helps. I'll see if I remember to check this thread later for your fan issue lol.

    Yeah I think I may need to flush. I may add that to list if things to do while I'm in there.

    Thanks for the info!

    -danger



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  21. #21
    Established Member Two Rings DoomedHatch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 07 2012
    AZ Member #
    101803
    Location
    Ft.Lewis WA

    Add Freon, see if that helps.

    But before that, search for any obvious damage, and asses it. then add the Freon.
    03 AR TIP - Stage??? /Exhaust/FMIC/Coilovers/Bi-Pipes/EFK/Wheels/Tuned/93MM Intake/

    /Looking for BEL DP'S/

    IG: awesomeelvis

  22. #22
    Established Member Two Rings DangerBruno's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 15 2014
    AZ Member #
    187685
    My Garage
    01’ allroad
    Location
    Scranton, PA

    Quote Originally Posted by DoomedHatch View Post
    Add Freon, see if that helps.

    But before that, search for any obvious damage, and asses it. then add the Freon.
    Thanks! Also do you think it would be better to get a cheap new radiator or a used oem one from a parted 01 ar?


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  23. #23
    Established Member Two Rings DoomedHatch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 07 2012
    AZ Member #
    101803
    Location
    Ft.Lewis WA

    is used Guaranteed to work?

    Cheap new one? ready to pay 15 to pressure test and possibly weld up leaks?
    03 AR TIP - Stage??? /Exhaust/FMIC/Coilovers/Bi-Pipes/EFK/Wheels/Tuned/93MM Intake/

    /Looking for BEL DP'S/

    IG: awesomeelvis

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