To me, video in post #1 sounds like pump. When replacing low pressure suction hose, use improved clamps. Why Audi uses crap-style clamps that eat into and permanently damage hoses with a single use, I do not know. The improved-style clamps I speak of are either solid clamps, or clamps that have flared-out grooves.
Maybe you could replace the reservoir, since it has a filter that loses effectiveness over time. A filter which, is not replaceable by itself. I believe the entire reservoir is ~$30. This isn't going to fix your steering issues, but I highly recommend it at your mileage.
In picture 2, post 10, the thing labeled in green is a part of the steering rack. The hex head bolt on it is used to adjust pre-load/lash.
The blue and red arrows point to the inlet and outlet hoses/banjo bolts.
It appears to me that the P/S rack is leaking somewhere in that area, possibly spraying or dripping fluid onto everything. When my rack failed, and it leaked a TON from the drivers side boot, it caused zero noises.
My low pressure P/S hose, which was falling apart @ 100k and had weak OEM clamps, caused a high pitched whale-mating-call-type sound. Tightening the clamps reduced the noise slightly. (low pressure hose:
Clicky, applies to 3.0 but may or may not apply to 1.8T)
Whereas my failing pump caused a lower, groaning/moaning type sound, with a faint metallic whirring noise. Steering load and RPM increase made it louder. It got the loudest at 1400RPM. . Similar to your video in post #1.
I wonder if your leaking rubber piece (steering tension adjuster) is making noise. Maybe you could use a mechanic's stethoscope (or make one) on the pump?
Leaking = rack failure.
Solution: Buy new, rebuild, re-manufactured, or re-build it yourself. Or use stop-leak to hold you over until you can repair or replace it. Maybe there is a way to replace that one rubber piece at the pre-load adjuster - I do not know, but at your mileage, maybe other rubber pieces are failing, and maybe it's worth it to do the entire thing?
Having the rack not clamped could have allowed contaminants to enter into the rack, and damage seals/contaminate it.
Originally Posted by
Ediehm
The more the accelerator pedal is depressed, the higher the pitch of the noise. I'm assuming this is because the speed of the pump increases or decreases depending on the speed of the serpentine belt?
Yes. I think so. This happened to me, until I replaced my pump. I could also hear noise directly coming from the pump with the car idling, hood open, and me standing in front of the car listening. I confirmed this when using a screwdriver as a stethoscope, placed on the pump.
The current OEM-spec fluid is Pentosin CHF202, which is around $11/L. Maybe, you could do this?:
-Replace or rebuild rack, replace banjo bolt crush washers with dealer aluminum ones, replace reservoir
-Flush with fresh fluid
If sound persists, see if its from the pump, or hose
-Replace noisy part, such as pump, $20 pump hose, pump banjo bolt aluminum washers
-Flush again
Flushing is important to preventing contamination, and the manual advises to do so when installing new parts, such as a pump or rack.
Note: I'm not a qualified mechanic or anything, just a DIY'er who had a similar experience on my 3.0 (pump failure, rack failure, low pressure hose failure, pump banjo bolt washer failure), so take my opinion with a grain of salt.
From what I've experienced and seen on the forums, in all but one case, the only hoses that failed prior to 120k miles, are cheap, small, rubber hoses. Such was the case with my 3.0, where the low pressure $20, tiny, all-rubber hose failed, yet my heavier duty hoses continue working. Such as the high pressure hose, which is a few hundred bucks. I believe that hose is stronger and made to withstand higher pressure, and is partially metal.
His: 2012 Moonlight Blue Metallic S5 Prestige
Hers: 2014 Lava Gray Metallic Q5 2.0T
Son's: 2005.5 Imola Yellow B7 S4 4.2 Sedan
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