Turbo replacement difficulty

**Cottonmouth** · 04-08-2014 05:18 PM

For those who have done it, I have a question...

My turbo is blown and I have sourced a replacement. I found a DIY instruction from Stäsis and am wondering if you can rate the job on a 1-10 scale. I am pretty technically savvy but have not done a turbo r/r.

Everything on my car was done by me except for the clutch.

**wildcat333** · 04-08-2014 05:22 PM

Interested in this too... as I fear mine is on its way out due to copper/brass metal in my oil filter. Subscribed.

**Cottonmouth** · 04-08-2014 05:23 PM

Mine is leaking oil directly into the exhaust.

**V2Rider** · 04-08-2014 05:25 PM

Isnt there a Turbo rebuild kit for that? Just saying, instead of buying a whole new turbo...

**Cottonmouth** · 04-08-2014 05:26 PM

I sourced one with low mileage on it. I figure it's better to replace since my current one has 237,000 km on it.

**wildcat333** · 04-08-2014 05:30 PM

Originally Posted by V2Rider

Isnt there a Turbo rebuild kit for that? Just saying, instead of buying a whole new turbo...

How would one rebuilt a turbo?

**vce1232000** · 04-08-2014 05:31 PM

Solid

6

**B5A4Kevin** · 04-08-2014 05:45 PM

What in the turbo is made of copper? I can't think of anything other than washers, which would not just randomly disintegrate into the oil. Your metal is most likely coming from something other than the turbo. Was the engine ran for a long period (10 minutes or more) with no or low oil?

The turbo install on the b7 is fairly straightforward. Make sure to get all the sealing washers, studs/hardware, and exhaust manifold and cat gaskets. The turbo and manifold are one-piece on the b7. Entire job can be done in less than a few hours with air tools, or if you have a good selection of hand tools. Technical difficulty I would rate it at about 4.5-6 depending on how many PITA bolts/nuts you find. Try not to break anything. The studs on the turbo like to break because the locknuts get siezed on. disconnect the cat at both sides (turbo and midpipe) and slide it back (does not need to be fully removed). remove the brace (probably the most frustrating part). Then disconnect all the air, fluid and electrical connections. Unbolt all the top nuts at the manifold and pull it up while tilting the bottom towards the oil pan. Make sure not to touch the hot lead on the starter or better yet d/c your neg terminal beforehand. Like I said, pretty straight forward. Best of luck!

And most failed turbo's either puke oil into the exhaust causing a smoke machine, or suck something into the impellor (debris or the locknut on the impeller itself). I always hear people talk about the feared dentist drill noise, but from my experience, it is a very rare failure. Some say low boost is a tell tale sign, but this is only if the wastegate is loose. I believe there is actually a TSB for this on the b7 or b8. Usually, low boost is due to a vacuum/charge-air leak. Hope this helps!

**Cottonmouth** · 04-08-2014 05:49 PM

Originally Posted by B5A4Kevin

What in the turbo is made of copper? I can't think of anything other than washers, which would not just randomly disintegrate into the oil. Your metal is most likely coming from something other than the turbo. Was the engine ran for a long period (10 minutes or more) with no or low oil?

The turbo install on the b7 is fairly straightforward. Make sure to get all the sealing washers, studs/hardware, and exhaust manifold and cat gaskets. The turbo and manifold are one-piece on the b7. Entire job can be done in less than a few hours with air tools, or if you have a good selection of hand tools. Technical difficulty I would rate it at about 4.5-6 depending on how many PITA bolts/nuts you find. Try not to break anything. The studs on the turbo like to break because the locknuts get siezed on. disconnect the cat at both sides (turbo and midpipe) and slide it back (does not need to be fully removed). remove the brace (probably the most frustrating part). Then disconnect all the air, fluid and electrical connections. Unbolt all the top nuts at the manifold and pull it up while tilting the bottom towards the oil pan. Make sure not to touch the hot lead on the starter or better yet d/c your neg terminal beforehand. Like I said, pretty straight forward. Best of luck!

And most failed turbo's either puke oil into the exhaust causing a smoke machine, or suck something into the impellor (debris or the locknut on the impeller itself). I always hear people talk about the feared dentist drill noise, but from my experience, it is a very rare failure. Some say low boost is a tell tale sign, but this is only if the wastegate is loose. I believe there is actually a TSB for this on the b7 or b8. Usually, low boost is due to a vacuum/charge-air leak. Hope this helps!

Thanks. I have some air tools but prefer to do things by hand since I get a better feel for the breaking point of things.

**mec** · 04-08-2014 06:32 PM

solid 5. just requires unbolting lots of stuff. But its pretty straightforward.

**V2Rider** · 04-08-2014 06:39 PM

Originally Posted by wildcat333

How would one rebuilt a turbo?

http://www.amazon.com/Turbocharger-R.../dp/B00BEJ9J1C

**V2Rider** · 04-08-2014 06:41 PM

Originally Posted by B5A4Kevin

What in the turbo is made of copper? I can't think of anything other than washers, which would not just randomly disintegrate into the oil. Your metal is most likely coming from something other than the turbo. Was the engine ran for a long period (10 minutes or more) with no or low oil?

The turbo install on the b7 is fairly straightforward. Make sure to get all the sealing washers, studs/hardware, and exhaust manifold and cat gaskets. The turbo and manifold are one-piece on the b7. Entire job can be done in less than a few hours with air tools, or if you have a good selection of hand tools. Technical difficulty I would rate it at about 4.5-6 depending on how many PITA bolts/nuts you find. Try not to break anything. The studs on the turbo like to break because the locknuts get siezed on. disconnect the cat at both sides (turbo and midpipe) and slide it back (does not need to be fully removed). remove the brace (probably the most frustrating part). Then disconnect all the air, fluid and electrical connections. Unbolt all the top nuts at the manifold and pull it up while tilting the bottom towards the oil pan. Make sure not to touch the hot lead on the starter or better yet d/c your neg terminal beforehand. Like I said, pretty straight forward. Best of luck!

And most failed turbo's either puke oil into the exhaust causing a smoke machine, or suck something into the impellor (debris or the locknut on the impeller itself). I always hear people talk about the feared dentist drill noise, but from my experience, it is a very rare failure. Some say low boost is a tell tale sign, but this is only if the wastegate is loose. I believe there is actually a TSB for this on the b7 or b8. Usually, low boost is due to a vacuum/charge-air leak. Hope this helps!

It's not copper, it's brass, the bearing is made of Brass, I believe. If I'm wrong, someone correct me.

**jsandor91** · 04-08-2014 09:11 PM

I have a k03 in good condition with like 85k on it if anyone needs one.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

**FraggyA4** · 04-09-2014 06:52 AM

The removal really isn't to tough, remove your intake for more access, unbolt your down pipe to give better clearance, remove piping. Then its just a matter of removing a few studs.

**thenofjboy** · 04-09-2014 07:29 AM

Originally Posted by V2Rider

http://www.amazon.com/Turbocharger-R.../dp/B00BEJ9J1C

rebuilding the turbo isn't too hard but you have to get it balanced as well IIRC

**Silveravant** · 04-09-2014 07:57 AM

http://www.amazon.com/Turbocharger-R.../dp/B00BEJ9J1C

I like this part of the description "Complete Rebuild kit almost including every piece"
Wonder what's not included.

**BenMTL** · 04-10-2014 05:10 AM

Originally Posted by Silveravant

http://www.amazon.com/Turbocharger-R.../dp/B00BEJ9J1C

I like this part of the description "Complete Rebuild kit almost including every piece"
Wonder what's not included.

Thats the adventure....Put it all together and figure out whats missing when it doesn't work

**Cottonmouth** · 10-29-2014 05:35 AM

Just find yourself a low mileage turbo for sale and replace the whole unit.

**shiro1745** · 10-29-2014 07:27 AM

As the others have said is pretty straight forward, just take your time. Is probably a good idea to have some extra exhaust manifold studs and nuts, specially the ones on the turbo hot side are hard to remove sometimes.