Installed new crankshaft seal. Advice?

[gmudan]

I installed this new crankshaft seal as the one I just put in started leaking yesterday. Is this far enough back for the new one. I kind of forget how far Back my old one was.

[customa4]

From what I read it said just push the oil seal in flush. Sorry I can't be more help.

[gmudan]

That's ok. I already put it all back together and waited 4 hours. STILL LEAKING. I'm doubting on paying someone to do this so I have warranty on it or trying one more time with a original Audi seal

[MikTip]

You have to not scratch the seal on install. Also rotate it while installing so the inner seal goes over the crank smoothly.

Those sharp edges on the crank can scratch it easily.

Put one layer of blue tape over the edges then slip the seal over it.

Also oil the seals inner edge prior to install.

Make sure its the correct seal.

I buy the one from Audi as they tend to not leak as often and last longer.

If the cranks shaft is scored from the old seal, ya have to smooth it up with some fine emery cloth or sand paper prior to installing new seal.

[gmudan]

You have to not scratch the seal on install.

Those sharp edges on the crank can scratch it easily.

Put one layer of blue tape over the edges then slip the seal over it.

Also oil the seals inner edge prior to install.

Make sure its the correct seal.

I buy the one from Audi as they tend to not leak as often and last longer.

If the cranks shaft is scored from the old seal, ya have to smooth it up with some fine emery cloth or sand paper prior to installing new seal.

I did exactly that, but still leaking. I guess it was the wrong seal, came in the ECS ultimate kit. Tuesday ill take it all apart again and do it with the original audi seal.

[MikTip]

I did exactly that, but still leaking. I guess it was the wrong seal, came in the ECS ultimate kit. Tuesday ill take it all apart again and do it with the original audi seal.

Some parts houses sell the cam shaft seal as a crank shaft seal, and vise versa...

In many cases they will work...some they wont.

Best bet is the Audi seal by part number for the crank.

Take a close look and the crankshaft with the seal removed. See if the area the seal touchs is clean and smooth?

Lube the seals edge which touchs the crank with engine oil prior to install.

Inspect the new seal closely prior to install for any defects on the sealing edges, especially those that touch the crank.

[gmudan]

Some parts houses sell the cam shaft seal as a crank shaft seal, and vise versa...

In many cases they will work...some they wont.

Best bet is the Audi seal by part number for the crank.

Take a close look and the crankshaft with the seal removed. See if the area the seal touchs is clean and smooth?

Lube the seals edge which touches the crank with engine oil prior to install.

Inspect the new seal closely prior to install for any defects on the sealing edges, especially those that touch the crank.

Yea it was clean and smooth, i used a bit of oil on the inside not the outside but it slid right in perfectly. I used a socket exactly the size of the smaller part of the crankshaft where the sprocket goes on to widen the seal because the socket had a nice smooth taper to it. Then i put the socket flush against the crankshaft and pushed the seal on. It went right in like butter, and tapped it lightly with a socket and rubber mallet to get it inside nice and square. It looks like i did it perfectly but still.... I guess it was the wrong seal. Stupid elring.
Thanks for the help.

[customa4]

What's your method for removing the crank bolt? Have you replaced the crank bolt? I could be wrong but aren't they one time use?

[gmudan]

What's your method for removing the crank bolt? Have you replaced the crank bolt? I could be wrong but aren't they one time use?

Yes i replaced it. I had to use acetylene torches because the impact gun didnt do anything. Cranked up the gun to 100+ psi and applied heat till it was red hot and it came out slowly. I used a pair of big pump pliers to hold the crank lightly, it didn't turn much.

[MikTip]

Yes i replaced it. I had to use acetylene torches because the impact gun didnt do anything. Cranked up the gun to 100+ psi and applied heat till it was red hot and it came out slowly. I used a pair of big pump pliers to hold the crank lightly, it didn't turn much.

I have this tool:


Matra 3415

For holding the crankshaft...

I also use a 3/4 breaker bar and 19mm impact socket. As I have broken a 1/2 drive breaker by trying to remove the bolt.

[gmudan]

I have this tool:



For holding the crank

Yea, i made something like that after i realized i had to torque it down.

[gmudan]

Alright tomorrow I'm going to install a original seal. Still have the original question remaining. How far do I push it in? I know customa4 gave me a answer but I'm looking for a second opinion.
Any last tips that have not been written?

[old guy]

Search for a cheap VAG tool #3083. It sets the seal at the proper depth. The Bentley specifically states do not oil the sealing lip before installation.

[old guy]

Here ya go: Clicky click

[vhstejskal]

I would also mention that depending on the type of seal you may not want to oil it while installing the seal.

Link to the thread but if the seal is PTFE I believe you have to install it without oil; also assuming the cam and crank seal have commonality.

camshaft seal differences

also cross post

replacing your timing belt...

[gmudan]

Excellent info. Thanks!

[gmudan]

So the old non PTFE seal requires oil? It's the one with a spring inside.

[vhstejskal]

I don't think the non-PTFE require oil but you can use oil to help seat it outside the fact that the Bentley does mention to install without. Do you remember if the Erling had a spring inside or not? I just checked I still have a Victor Reinz version with a spring inside.

[MikTip]

PTFE require no start of engine for 4 hours after install....

I have always oiled the inner lip of the seals I have installed on all my Audi's since 1981...
But they were the old non ptfe's....
Drop of Mobil 1 on them never caused any issues. Even my 2.0L crank seal I changed recently is still leak free.

After reading up on them...I can see not oiling the ptfe seal....but isnt it exposed to hot pressurized oil while the engine is running?

The crankshaft seals I ordered from Audi(054 115 147B) and installed are non ptfe version.

[MikTip]

From SKF's website on PTFE seals:

"In applications where PTFE seals will be retaining a lubricant or be fully flooded with a fluid, the seals should be installed dry. In applications that run dry or will be starved for lubrication, the sealing lip should be pre-lubricated with a grease appropriate for the temperature conditions of the application"

[MikTip]

From Victor Reinz:

http://www.reinz.de/pictures/39-0025...PTFE-low-e.pdf

[vhstejskal]

^good info right there... I know these topics come up occasionally.

[MikTip]

^good info right there... I know these topics come up occasionally.

Generally when parts change or improve...their methods and proceedures change...with new improved proceedures.

[gmudan]

I don't think the non-PTFE require oil but you can use oil to help seat it outside the fact that the Bentley does mention to install without. Do you remember if the Erling had a spring inside or not? I just checked I still have a Victor Reinz version with a spring inside.

The elring did not have a spring inside. The elring is the only one on ecs for the crank that doesn't have a spring. I will install this one dry, i got a great method of installing it so I won't rip it either.

[gmudan]

From Victor Reinz:

http://www.reinz.de/pictures/39-0025...PTFE-low-e.pdf

Sweet find! Thank you.

[MikTip]

The elring did not have a spring inside. The elring is the only one on ecs for the crank that doesn't have a spring. I will install this one dry, i got a great method of installing it so I won't rip it either.

The oil seal I bought from an Audi dealer have the spring....
I wonder if ECS is selling ya to 2.0L seal?

[gmudan]

The oil seal I bought from an Audi dealer have the spring....
I wonder if ECS is selling ya to 2.0L seal?

I doubt it. The belt and everything else fit Nicely. I'm picking up the new seal from dealer right now and I'll be tearing down the front end in about 20 mins so I'll let you know how it goes.

[MikTip]

I doubt it. The belt and everything else fit Nicely. I'm picking up the new seal from dealer right now and I'll be tearing down the front end in about 20 mins so I'll let you know how it goes.

I bought 2 seals from dealer....both were non ptfe....so given this, what determines weather or not you get a ptfe seal? Part number? Dealer? Luck?

[gmudan]

I bought 2 seals from dealer....both were non ptfe....so given this, what determines weather or not you get a ptfe seal? Part number? Dealer? Luck?

I think part number. I just got the seal. It's a old type!

[gmudan]

Old seal Defiantly leaking

[gmudan]

Here is the inside of the old seal. As you can see the lip wasn't bent at all.

[gmudan]

New seal installed, perfectly flush

[SJorge3442]

now clean up all of that oil and go beat the hell of out her for a test run.

[customa4]

Looks flush to me. Is the picture in post #29 the back of the new seal?

[gmudan]

Looks flush to me. Is the picture in post #29 the back of the new seal?

Yes it is.

[gmudan]

It looks good!!! Quick run around the block and don't see any oil but im hoping on a longer run its ok. *knock on wood*

[gmudan]

Close one door and another opens yea... Look what broke

[customa4]

Those two seals look wayyyy different. I hope that problem is fixed for your sanity!

[old guy]

Heat up the end of a screwdriver with a propane torch. Press it into the plastic. Screw the broken portion out.

[SaabtoAudi]

Heat up the end of a screwdriver with a propane torch. Press it into the plastic. Screw the broken portion out.

Genius!