Oil leak from up behind filter

[new_era_inc]

No you dont need to remove the serpentine belt unless you plan to remove the alternator which also isn't necessary. I plan to do this job this weekend so we shall see how it goes.


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Ya I figured as much. Let me know how it goes.


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[aluthman]

I checked the Bentley and elsawin for the proper steps to remove the filter case and oil cooler. They both mention having to remove the tensioner and the serpentine belt. Anyone know why? Since it is no where near the oil cooler and filter case. The video posted earlier only shows removing the alternator power clip and a bracket bolt.


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Removing the tensioner, serpentine belt, and alternator are totally not required. Not even a little bit.

[audihere06]

So i take it that the general consensus from everyone in this thread is to replace the whole thing. Not just the gaskets? I dont want to do this job twice but would like to save money where i can.


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[vce1232000]

So i take it that the general consensus from everyone in this thread is to replace the whole thing. Not just the gaskets? I dont want to do this job twice but would like to save money where i can.


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Quote Originally Posted by vce1232000 View Post
I did the same job on a MK5 GTI. I the oil filter housing and oil cooler gasket only. Its been bone dry for about a month now. I got the gaskets from Europaparts on here. Very fast shiping and it was only about $10.00 bux for both gaskets...

[audihere06]

Quote Originally Posted by vce1232000 View Post
I did the same job on a MK5 GTI. I the oil filter housing and oil cooler gasket only. Its been bone dry for about a month now. I got the gaskets from Europaparts on here. Very fast shiping and it was only about $10.00 bux for both gaskets...

I am thinking about doing that but i dont want to do it twice if it doesnt work. I have read some people have had it continue to leak after just doing the seals.


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[vce1232000]

I am thinking about doing that but i dont want to do it twice if it doesnt work. I have read some people have had it continue to leak after just doing the seals.


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I took a chance on the GTI because I was selling it. If it was my car i would the whole unit. $10.00 gaskets vs $200.00 unit. I just threw the dice and didnt snake eyed out this time

[Spridle]

Mines been dry now for awhile, hopefully it holds. In my post mortem I suspect my pain was self inflicted. The gasket at one corner was completely crushed. When I put everything back in again I made sure to use a torque wrench and get everything torqued to spec. There's one bolt that's really tough to get a wrench on and I know I over tightened it the first time around, that's the corner that had the crushed gasket.

I still have yet to get the cam follower out to look at that. As soon as the weather warms up that will be first.

[audihere06]

When I put everything back in again I made sure to use a torque wrench and get everything torqued to spec.

Do you know what the torque specs were?


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[vvenom800tt]

In for torque specs as well

[vce1232000]

Mines been dry now for awhile, hopefully it holds. In my post mortem I suspect my pain was self inflicted. The gasket at one corner was completely crushed. When I put everything back in again I made sure to use a torque wrench and get everything torqued to spec. There's one bolt that's really tough to get a wrench on and I know I over tightened it the first time around, that's the corner that had the crushed gasket.

I still have yet to get the cam follower out to look at that. As soon as the weather warms up that will be first.

By any chase was it the top left corner. Where the gasket seems to be separate from the main body gasket. The reason I asked because it slipped on me twice when the housing on the block. Its really hard to see in that corner once the housing is in place. I had to apply a little grease in the outer area to hold the gasket firm in place when the housing onto the block without and slippage. I did not torque in place only tighten to my discretion since I seen the brass bushings on the 4 bolt holes to prevent me crushing the gasket from over

[audihere06]

In for torque specs as well

15nm


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[vvenom800tt]

Thank you

[vvenom800tt]

Doing this tomorrow, any wuick tips on how you guys went about it? Any specialty tools needed other than triple square bits/

Ive been watching this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qip4_UYldrQ

[vvenom800tt]

Just got this all done on my car. Its not that bad of a job honestly. Its just slightly tedious. It certainly helps with an extra set of hands. You definitely need triple square and long hex 5 and hex 6 bits.

Be careful with the oil pressure sensor, i definitely broke the ground wire going to it and had to rewire it. Other than that it was pretty straight forward. I also replaced my lower radiator hose while i was in there since mine was leaking.

[new_era_inc]

I also replaced my lower radiator hose while i was in there since mine was leaking.

From where was the hose leaking ? I noticed, while doing an oil change, that the bottom of the plastic part that can be used to drain and attaches to the rad, had a drop of coolant just hanging there. I'm not sure if the drain valve needs to be tightened or needs to be replaced completely. I don't want to tighten it now when it's cold just incase it breaks. There's no coolant anywhere underneath the hose or on the plastic oil pan cover.
I bled the system and topped off the coolant to see if I notice a drop in the coolant reservoir tank.


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[johnruan]

I just did the oil filter housing assembly yesterday.its PITA had to do this job twice.i changed those gaskets 3 months with no leaks but finally starting to leak 2 weeks ago have to replace the whole thing.i was wonder how did that piece cracked.

[vvenom800tt]

From where was the hose leaking ? I noticed, while doing an oil change, that the bottom of the plastic part that can be used to drain and attaches to the rad, had a drop of coolant just hanging there. I'm not sure if the drain valve needs to be tightened or needs to be replaced completely. I don't want to tighten it now when it's cold just incase it breaks. There's no coolant anywhere underneath the hose or on the plastic oil pan cover.
I bled the system and topped off the coolant to see if I notice a drop in the coolant reservoir tank.


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Mine was leaking from the hose going onto the radiator. Its been dripping for months. But now i have a coolant leak from the center of the engine somewhere under the oil filter housing so im assuming its the thermostat ( Which is only 1 year old) I might have wiggled it when plugging in the radiator hose and maybe the seal was broken slightly. I got a new i ring on the way and im gonna reseat it next week

[aluthman]

I have a used adapter if you need still need one. $50 shipped. They are ~$200 new IIRC.

[new_era_inc]

I have a used adapter if you need still need one. $50 shipped. They are ~$200 new IIRC.

Adapter from the lower hose to the rad ?


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[aluthman]

No the oil filter adapter that johnruan needs because his cracked.

[new_era_inc]

No the oil filter adapter that johnruan needs because his cracked.

Oh ok. Cause the rad hose comes with the plastic drain. Sorry got confused for a minute. Lol


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[johnruan]

No the oil filter adapter that johnruan needs because his cracked.

I got the part from GAP and replaced yesterday hopefully no more leak

[pat_do]

Looks like this problem has been affecting all owners in the northern climate!

[vce1232000]

Looks like this problem has been affecting all owners in the northern climate!

Yes. its been brutally cold this winter

[typeslone]

I just changed my whole oil filter housing on my B7 the other night @ 150K miles. I've changed a few now at the shop I work for part time.

These are actually pretty common actually, we stock the housings now at the dealer I work for full time. At the dealer we do maybe 2-3 a month on mk5 vw's, both 2.0T and 2.5s. Seems to only happen in winter months when the temps get real cold and they are subject to large heat cycles. Its plastic though, just like the coolant flanges that deteriorate over time. I've seen some that were slightly warped when checked with a straight edge also.

The job is a pain to do on a transverse vw but on the B7 its a walk in the park in my opinion, I just remove the throttle hose and swing the coolant bottle out of the way. The rest is easy, just need a good mirror and flashlight to see down there. Its an hour to hour and half job tops. Just don't forget to change you oil after, when you remove the housing, the port where the coolant flows thru the housing into the cooler will drip into one of the oil passages and settle down into your oil in the pan. You don't want coolant in your oil now either.

[TransAm87WS6]

Seems to only happen in winter months when the temps get real cold and they are subject to large heat cycles.

So does this normally self-correct in warmer weather, when the rubber swells back?

[typeslone]

So does this normally self-correct in warmer weather, when the rubber swells back?

No, once it warps, it normally stays warped until replaced.

[kirbs69]

I just changed my whole oil filter housing on my B7 the other night @ 150K miles. I've changed a few now at the shop I work for part time.

These are actually pretty common actually, we stock the housings now at the dealer I work for full time. At the dealer we do maybe 2-3 a month on mk5 vw's, both 2.0T and 2.5s. Seems to only happen in winter months when the temps get real cold and they are subject to large heat cycles. Its plastic though, just like the coolant flanges that deteriorate over time. I've seen some that were slightly warped when checked with a straight edge also.

The job is a pain to do on a transverse vw but on the B7 its a walk in the park in my opinion, I just remove the throttle hose and swing the coolant bottle out of the way. The rest is easy, just need a good mirror and flashlight to see down there. Its an hour to hour and half job tops. Just don't forget to change you oil after, when you remove the housing, the port where the coolant flows thru the housing into the cooler will drip into one of the oil passages and settle down into your oil in the pan. You don't want coolant in your oil now either.

So only drain the coolant before doing this job? Won't there be a bunch of oil pouring out when you take off the oil filter housing assy?

[typeslone]

So only drain the coolant before doing this job? Won't there be a bunch of oil pouring out when you take off the oil filter housing assy?

Yes a bunch of oil will pour out when you take the housing off which will happen no matter what you do. But take off the oil filter cup and let it drain from there first to get most of it out. As for the coolant, I don't bother draining it, I pinch off the oil cooler hose and I just let it spill out and top off accordingly after it is back together. It really isn't a big amount of coolant that comes out. A small 1.5 liter bottle is usually enough to top the system back off. Even if you did drain the coolant, it won't really empty what is in the block behind the oil filter housing and whats inside the oil cooler anyway. No point in draining everything out of the radiator and the hoses for no reason, that just causes you to have to buy more G12.

Like I said in my original post though, drain the oil from the oil pan after you reassemble the car because some coolant will pour from block into the crankcase and that isn't something you want. You'll see when you take the drain plug out of the pan that coolant comes out for a split second or so and then the oil starts pouring out.

[TransAm87WS6]

No, once it warps, it normally stays warped until replaced.

If i'm not mistaken, several people in this thread replaced gaskets only; how common is a warped housing?

[typeslone]

If i'm not mistaken, several people in this thread replaced gaskets only; how common is a warped housing?

Every car is different unfortunately. If you have high milage (150K +) I would be more willing to be the housing is slightly warped and some of the plastic is deteriorated, but a car with say 70K on it, I'd take my chances with just a gasket.

[kirbs69]

Yes a bunch of oil will pour out when you take the housing off which will happen no matter what you do. But take off the oil filter cup and let it drain from there first to get most of it out. As for the coolant, I don't bother draining it, I pinch off the oil cooler hose and I just let it spill out and top off accordingly after it is back together. It really isn't a big amount of coolant that comes out. A small 1.5 liter bottle is usually enough to top the system back off. Even if you did drain the coolant, it won't really empty what is in the block behind the oil filter housing and whats inside the oil cooler anyway. No point in draining everything out of the radiator and the hoses for no reason, that just causes you to have to buy more G12.

Like I said in my original post though, drain the oil from the oil pan after you reassemble the car because some coolant will pour from block into the crankcase and that isn't something you want. You'll see when you take the drain plug out of the pan that coolant comes out for a split second or so and then the oil starts pouring out.

Yupp, planned on doing this as mentioned, but didn't know why coolant drain wasn't needed. Many thanks!

[new_era_inc]

Every car is different unfortunately. If you have high milage (150K +) I would be more willing to be the housing is slightly warped and some of the plastic is deteriorated, but a car with say 70K on it, I'd take my chances with just a gasket.

My Audi is at 220,000 km. I did the whole housing and gaskets. I didn't want to do the job twice. It was a bit tedious but pretty straight forward. Took me about 5 hours with clean up and going to the dealership for a small part.

When I removed the housing the engine block side was really dirty and pieces of the old gasket was stuck on the block. I used a 400pt sand paper to clean it and little bit of brake cleaner, because that stuff just evaporates. Then finished it off with an 800pt to make sure it was nice and smooth. I made sure the engine block is spotless as well as the air cooler gasket side. Also be extra careful with all those plastic clips. If it's cold postpone the fix because they just chatter when it's cold. I had to replace the oil sensor clip that attaches to the housing. Luckily I had the tool to remove it and there's a VW dealership near my house.

Hope this helps and good luck everyone with your fix.

PS make sure you have a magnet because some of the screws, bolts and nuts are in awkward places. Magnet helps retrieving them.


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[ksteezy]

Bringing this thread back from the dead!

I'm also getting an oil leak right in that area as well(the one that aluthman posted) I am also having a mysterious coolant leak. At first I thought it was my cracked coolant overflow tank, but I epoxy(high temp) patched that up. I also replaced the rear coolant flange around 85k miles or so. I think it's possible that I'm getting both an oil leak and a coolant leak from the oil cooler/oil filter housing adapter? Since that housing has passages for both oil and coolant and I see an oil leak in that area while my low coolant sensor goes off when the overflow tank is low enough. There seems to be 2 gaskets to replace, but given my car's age(108k miles) seems like the smarter and less PITA thing to do is to replace the filter housing and gaskets completely?

Does anybody else have any other tips on making this job a little less PITA?

Going to be following aluthman's tips and the youtube video that keeps getting referenced.

There is a bleed screw on the hard coolant pipe that runs on top of the intake manifold. You may have overly simplified the job, but it's not too difficult.

1. Remove IC hose from throttle body inlet.
2. Remove alternator cable and unclip connectors for all wiring in the area (TB, MAP, oil level, PS pump, etc.). You'll want to clip the wire ties and move them out of the way.
3. Undo coolant expansion tank and move to the side. You can leave lines connected.
4. Remove throttle body (not technically required, but makes it easier to see what you're doing and it's only 4 bolts)
5. Remove two triple square bolts and bracket they were holding on.
6. Drain oil and remover screw-on filter housing.
7. Undo 4 bolts for oil cooler. You will loose a bit of coolant here if the system isn't drained, maybe .5-1 gallon. (6mm allen IIRC)
8. Remove 4 bolts for filter adapter. (10mm)
9. Clean block surface.
10. Reinstall with new gaskets and torque adapter and oil cooler bolts to 15 ft-lbs.
11. Reinstall everything else.
12. Refill coolant and bleed. Add oil and filter.

In reality, it's maybe a 2.5-3 hour job including the bleeding and whatnot at the end. If you have a catch can, that will probably need to come out as well, mine did.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qip4_UYldrQ

Edit - Updated video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5tALrf_LDQA

[Theiceman]

Only tip I have would be to put an OE one in. Some after markets have leaked..
There is one bracket you have to get out that's a pain in the ass. But other than that it's not too difficult..
My back was sore for a couple days after as I'm not 21 any more.
That guy is really good..he has an excellent thermostat one too.

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[Jeevan]

Don't remove the hoses that go to thermostat unless you want to replace the thermostat. It is a good idea to replace that too as you have plenty of space and save money on coolant. Don't forget to buy the new oring for the hose that goes into the thermostat. Make sure your car is on the level surface or else some coolant will drip into the oil pan(coolant hole for oil filter housing is at the top so it's natural for gravity to feed it from top to bottom)


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