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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings mec's Avatar
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    B7 pilot bearing removal

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    Anyone on here ever removed this before?



    I looked around and people recommend using grease as a hydraulic to push it out from the rear. Others said to use a slide hammer, and Audi used a kukko extractor that is like $300. With that back plate I'm not sure grease will work.

    I was curious if anyone has had good luck with a generic tool I could just rent?

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings mec's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mec View Post
    Anyone on here ever removed this before?



    I looked around and people recommend using grease as a hydraulic to push it out from the rear. Others said to use a slide hammer, and Audi used a kukko extractor that is like $300. With that back plate I'm not sure grease will work.

    I was curious if anyone has had good luck with a generic tool I could just rent?
    Hmm not sure why it showed up so small

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings fly300kts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mec View Post
    Anyone on here ever removed this before?



    I looked around and people recommend using grease as a hydraulic to push it out from the rear. Others said to use a slide hammer, and Audi used a kukko extractor that is like $300. With that back plate I'm not sure grease will work.

    I was curious if anyone has had good luck with a generic tool I could just rent?
    What bearing is that Mec? Location?

    Phil

  4. #4
    Stage 2 Banner Advertiser Four Rings Jake@JHM's Avatar
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    Cut a slit in the bearing so you can fold it inwards to relieve the pressure and it will slide right out. Be careful to not cut into your crank though. (it is hardened steel so a slight scuff won't hurt it.

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  5. #5
    Stage 2 Banner Advertiser Four Rings Jake@JHM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fly300kts View Post
    What bearing is that Mec? Location?

    Phil
    It is the pilot bearing.

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  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jake@JHM View Post
    It is the pilot bearing.
    Location?

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings mec's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jake@JHM View Post
    Cut a slit in the bearing so you can fold it inwards to relieve the pressure and it will slide right out. Be careful to not cut into your crank though. (it is hardened steel so a slight scuff won't hurt it.
    Cut a slit in it? Using what? a dremmel wheel won't fit in there...
    Quote Originally Posted by diond View Post
    Location?
    End of crankshaft, holds the input shaft of the transmission

  8. #8
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Hey mec, I haven't done this on an Audi but I did just do it on a Nissan Frontier. Use the "hydraulic" method. I used a small 1/4 in socket with an extension in it backwards (extension through other end of socket) you want a socket that just barely fits in the bearing. Fill the opening on the crank with grease, maybe quarter way. fit backwards socket in there and tap it out. Won't need too much force. It'll come out

  9. #9
    Stage 2 Banner Advertiser Four Rings Jake@JHM's Avatar
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    A dremmel will fit in there if you have the right bits. Anything will work that you can fit in there to cut it and fold it inward. Even the saw on your swiss if you have the patience!

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  10. #10
    Senior Member Two Rings BMT62688's Avatar
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    I used a slide hammer bearing puller I got from harbor freight. http://m.harborfreight.com/automotiv...ler-95987.html
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  11. #11
    Senior Member Two Rings BMT62688's Avatar
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    I used a slide hammer bearing puller I got from harbor freight. http://m.harborfreight.com/automotiv...ler-95987.html

    I tried the grease method and wet paper methods first and they wouldn't work for me
    2013 S5 Estoril Blue

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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings mec's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by russkieA4 View Post
    Hey mec, I haven't done this on an Audi but I did just do it on a Nissan Frontier. Use the "hydraulic" method. I used a small 1/4 in socket with an extension in it backwards (extension through other end of socket) you want a socket that just barely fits in the bearing. Fill the opening on the crank with grease, maybe quarter way. fit backwards socket in there and tap it out. Won't need too much force. It'll come out
    I really don't want to do this...getting a grease gun just sounds like a pain but it sounds like it is the easiest method, I just hate working with grease.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jake@JHM View Post
    A dremmel will fit in there if you have the right bits. Anything will work that you can fit in there to cut it and fold it inward. Even the saw on your swiss if you have the patience!
    I just tried to drill through the thing with 12 different drill bits, masonry,woodworking, metal, step drill bits, nothing works..This thing is tough as diamonds
    Literally did not even scratch it...well it did scratch but surface, I didn't get through it even a bit.

    Quote Originally Posted by BMT62688 View Post
    I used a slide hammer bearing puller I got from harbor freight. http://m.harborfreight.com/automotiv...ler-95987.html
    I think this is step two....I borrowed a snap on slide hammer but it didn't work...

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings mec's Avatar
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    Here's the tool I was lent from a shop.



  14. #14
    Established Member Two Rings
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    You dont need much grease. I used a castle product called "Brake Life". Used to lubricate brakes pads and pins, its not as greasy as normal grease. But still works. Also heard someone use wet paper towels. Just crammed them in there and used the socket method to "push" the bearing out. Should be cleaner if you hate grease. It surprised me how easy this method was

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings mec's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by russkieA4 View Post
    You dont need much grease. I used a castle product called "Brake Life". Used to lubricate brakes pads and pins, its not as greasy as normal grease. But still works. Also heard someone use wet paper towels. Just crammed them in there and used the socket method to "push" the bearing out. Should be cleaner if you hate grease. It surprised me how easy this method was
    But then you have to drill it out right? that small hole in the center doesn't have enough space to do much to fill through..and I can't drill it....shit is made of titaniumdiamonds

  16. #16
    Established Member Two Rings
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    No drilling at all. The key is to find a socket that just barely fits. You want all the force to transfer through the grease, not squeeze out between the socket and bearing

  17. #17
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    Its hard to tell from the picture, are both ends of the bearing open?

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings mec's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by russkieA4 View Post
    No drilling at all. The key is to find a socket that just barely fits. You want all the force to transfer through the grease, not squeeze out between the socket and bearing
    Just heard back from another guy who tried the bread and the grease trick on the audi, said it didn't work...I think I'm gonna try the HF tool first. that looks really solid. I appreciate your advice, I think I'm just being a little bitch about using grease...not sure why, just my concience is like nah don't do that, its gotta blow all over your face ( oh yeah engine is stilll in so I am working from underneath), pretty weird though I just don't want to...usually I'm like well lets do what will work...

  19. #19
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by mec View Post
    Just heard back from another guy who tried the bread and the grease trick on the audi, said it didn't work...I think I'm gonna try the HF tool first. that looks really solid. I appreciate your advice, I think I'm just being a little bitch about using grease...not sure why, just my concience is like nah don't do that, its gotta blow all over your face ( oh yeah engine is stilll in so I am working from underneath), pretty weird though I just don't want to...usually I'm like well lets do what will work...
    Interesting. Let us know how you get it done. Seems like the slide hammer might be your best bet

  20. #20
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    I failed miserably with a pilot bearing on a 4Runner not too long ago. Grease just blew thru the bearing seals and made a mess. No way I could split or drill it, way too hard of metal. The thing was stuck.

    This tool did the job in 2 seconds. Hook is small and strong and you just put in in center of bearing and tap that peg sticking off the side in the opposite direction. I was able to borrow it from my brother luckily. He said snap-on sold it to him.

    http://www.sears.com/kd-tools-seal-a...a=00994179000P

  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings fly300kts's Avatar
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    How about bread?



    Phil

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings mec's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fly300kts View Post
    How about bread?



    Phil
    I don't think so...We have a strange pilot bearing, it has a cap on the back side, with just the tiniest hole in the center, so bread wouldn't be able to go through the hole. If I'm not mistaken, the way that the grease trick works is that you pack out the area behind the pilot bearing and then apply air pressure using an air tight socket and a hammer,the air compresses whatever substance you are using, but since it has nowhere to go it pushes out on the rim of the pilot bearing. This would be very hard to do with our pilot bearing, most don't have a cap on the rear, but ours do so you would have to be quite skilled or get some kind of needle to shoot the grease behind the pilot bearing. The kit that BMT posted seems like what would work best.

    Luckily you don't ever have to deal with this bearing, being a tiptronic

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings fly300kts's Avatar
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    Good luck Man

    Phil

  24. #24
    Veteran Member Four Rings mec's Avatar
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    Came out like butter! It's all about having the right tool.

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings mec's Avatar
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    bump to make the tapatalk image bigger


  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings mec's Avatar
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    This tool is the shit. So it's a slide hammer. and the tips are rings that flare. so you insert the tip into the bearing, you spin the tip of the black thing and what it does is it makes the metal screw part go into the flared section and it makes it expand. So once you can't go any further you get a wrench on it and max it out. Then you attached the slide hammer, spin it on with the nice T handle, then go to town, move that weight hard, and it comes right out, took like 5 taps of the hammer. Maybe with setup like 5 minutes to get it out...spent an hour yesterday trying to get it out with other tools.

    $80 at HF if anyone ever needs it.

    Thanks for the tip BMT62688

  27. #27
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    Necro bump absolutely....
    Wanted to share this with fellow 6mt 's wanting to upgrade your clutches and why wouldn't you....?
    When you come to the pilot bearing,its a real PITA to remove and is a necessary part of any clutch upgrade-First,I borrowed a (really top shelf ) puller..uh,oh didn't work,the rolled edge is just too small for a puller to grab it just tore out .Then I was going to try a 3/4 inch plug tap which would have worked but my easy solution today,a Sunday and the local hardware came to the rescue- Too easy...
    You 6mt's should lock this away in your memory banks for when you come to do it !

    Firstly with an old screwdriver mangle the needle bearings inside and remove,then screw in tight -Ramset Dynabolt DP16065GH , 16 by 60mm.
    Weld rod to M12 nut,screw onto end of dynabolt,vice grips other end then drive out bearing hitting vg's with dead blow...
    Forget all the posts above if you want an easy procedure.


    Heidi - Audi A4 B8.5 T Q S-line,7 DSG,-Ibis white- E-tuners stage 1 ecu/tcu, lowered on Vogtlands ,19"rotors,quad exhaust,S4 diffuser,full Maxton skirt kit,AEM intake,10" Android auto screen

  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings aluthman's Avatar
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    I drilled out the cap at the end of the bearing to 1/4" and used bread and a steel rod to pack it in. Took a little while but it came out pretty easily. The puller I bought was worthless (it was the spreading finger kind).
    -Adam

    '07 DTM A4 2.0T|6MT|EFR 7163 Twin Scroll|DoTuning|Built Motor|Meth and other go fast stuff…
    '06 A4 2.0T Quattro - RIP (Best ¼ mile pass 13.634 @ 103.30)

  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings vce1232000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ringsby4 View Post
    Necro bump absolutely....
    Wanted to share this with fellow 6mt 's wanting to upgrade your clutches and why wouldn't you....?
    When you come to the pilot bearing,its a real PITA to remove and is a necessary part of any clutch upgrade-First,I borrowed a (really top shelf ) puller..uh,oh didn't work,the rolled edge is just too small for a puller to grab it just tore out .Then I was going to try a 3/4 inch plug tap which would have worked but my easy solution today,a Sunday and the local hardware came to the rescue- Too easy...
    You 6mt's should lock this away in your memory banks for when you come to do it !

    Firstly with an old screwdriver mangle the needle bearings inside and remove,then screw in tight -Ramset Dynabolt DP16065GH , 16 by 60mm.
    Weld rod to M12 nut,screw onto end of dynabolt,vice grips other end then drive out bearing hitting vg's with dead blow...
    Forget all the posts above if you want an easy procedure.


    tool fabricating
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  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by aluthman View Post
    I drilled out the cap at the end of the bearing to 1/4" and used bread and a steel rod to pack it in. Took a little while but it came out pretty easily. The puller I bought was worthless (it was the spreading finger kind).
    Wholemeal or soft white ? lol - to the power of hydraulics but reading all the posts re this method,I was thinking too that the pinhole would just have to be drilled...

    Quote Originally Posted by vce1232000 View Post
    tool fabricating
    Yea unlike my damnfangled camshaft holder,this worked
    Heidi - Audi A4 B8.5 T Q S-line,7 DSG,-Ibis white- E-tuners stage 1 ecu/tcu, lowered on Vogtlands ,19"rotors,quad exhaust,S4 diffuser,full Maxton skirt kit,AEM intake,10" Android auto screen

  31. #31
    Veteran Member Four Rings vce1232000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ringsby4 View Post
    Yea unlike my damnfangled camshaft holder,this worked
    We all learn to from trail & error ..........
    APR KO4, APR HPFP,RS4 LPFP Cntr,145 bar PRV, APR TP, TT DP, GFB DV+, AWE FMIC, BFI CC, AWE Exhaust, RS4 Exh tips, ST CO, 034 RSB,034 St Dnsty Mtr Mts, New Sth West Bst guage, B7 RS4 8 pot Calipers.Goodridge SS brake lines frt & rr. Hawk HPS frt & rr. RS4 PS rack, RS4 Servotronic Relay,RS4 rims. S4 mirror caps,DTM frt bmpr and rs4 fogs,LED tail lites
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  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by vce1232000 View Post
    We all learn to from trail & error ..........
    for sure hopefully with less error ! Should be swinging engine in today..clutch on,find some O rings for heater connections and,then yes,hopefully no errors.....
    Heidi - Audi A4 B8.5 T Q S-line,7 DSG,-Ibis white- E-tuners stage 1 ecu/tcu, lowered on Vogtlands ,19"rotors,quad exhaust,S4 diffuser,full Maxton skirt kit,AEM intake,10" Android auto screen

  33. #33
    Veteran Member Four Rings aluthman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ringsby4 View Post
    Wholemeal or soft white ? lol - to the power of hydraulics but reading all the posts re this method,I was thinking too that the pinhole would just have to be drilled...



    Yea unlike my damnfangled camshaft holder,this worked
    It was a regulation style hamburger bun
    -Adam

    '07 DTM A4 2.0T|6MT|EFR 7163 Twin Scroll|DoTuning|Built Motor|Meth and other go fast stuff…
    '06 A4 2.0T Quattro - RIP (Best ¼ mile pass 13.634 @ 103.30)

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by aluthman View Post
    It was a regulation style hamburger bun
    lol, I wouldve been worried about the sesame seeds jamming up the works....

    Are you on the lookout for another brink or concentrating on the powerhouse ?
    Heidi - Audi A4 B8.5 T Q S-line,7 DSG,-Ibis white- E-tuners stage 1 ecu/tcu, lowered on Vogtlands ,19"rotors,quad exhaust,S4 diffuser,full Maxton skirt kit,AEM intake,10" Android auto screen

  35. #35
    Veteran Member Four Rings aluthman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ringsby4 View Post
    lol, I wouldve been worried about the sesame seeds jamming up the works....

    Are you on the lookout for another brink or concentrating on the powerhouse ?
    Concentrating on my car. The new engine is in place, but I discovered that I need a new hpfp. Mine apparently got bent when the intake valves hit the #4 piston.
    -Adam

    '07 DTM A4 2.0T|6MT|EFR 7163 Twin Scroll|DoTuning|Built Motor|Meth and other go fast stuff…
    '06 A4 2.0T Quattro - RIP (Best ¼ mile pass 13.634 @ 103.30)

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by aluthman View Post
    I drilled out the cap at the end of the bearing to 1/4" and used bread and a steel rod to pack it in. Took a little while but it came out pretty easily. The puller I bought was worthless (it was the spreading finger kind).
    Quote Originally Posted by vce1232000 View Post
    tool fabricating
    Quote Originally Posted by aluthman View Post
    Concentrating on my car. The new engine is in place, but I discovered that I need a new hpfp. Mine apparently got bent when the intake valves hit the #4 piston.
    How did that exactly happen,surely everything was still rotating when the piston got hit ?
    Heidi - Audi A4 B8.5 T Q S-line,7 DSG,-Ibis white- E-tuners stage 1 ecu/tcu, lowered on Vogtlands ,19"rotors,quad exhaust,S4 diffuser,full Maxton skirt kit,AEM intake,10" Android auto screen

  37. #37
    Veteran Member Four Rings aluthman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ringsby4 View Post
    How did that exactly happen,surely everything was still rotating when the piston got hit ?
    Not entirely sure but it also sheared the drive plate off the vacuum pump.
    -Adam

    '07 DTM A4 2.0T|6MT|EFR 7163 Twin Scroll|DoTuning|Built Motor|Meth and other go fast stuff…
    '06 A4 2.0T Quattro - RIP (Best ¼ mile pass 13.634 @ 103.30)

  38. #38
    Veteran Member Four Rings vce1232000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ringsby4 View Post
    How did that exactly happen,surely everything was still rotating when the piston got hit ?
    Quote Originally Posted by aluthman View Post
    Not entirely sure but it also sheared the drive plate off the vacuum pump.
    Probably when the connecting rod separated from the crankshaft. This allowed the engine to over rev and caused related damages . Perpetual motion in effect until boom nothing else moves
    APR KO4, APR HPFP,RS4 LPFP Cntr,145 bar PRV, APR TP, TT DP, GFB DV+, AWE FMIC, BFI CC, AWE Exhaust, RS4 Exh tips, ST CO, 034 RSB,034 St Dnsty Mtr Mts, New Sth West Bst guage, B7 RS4 8 pot Calipers.Goodridge SS brake lines frt & rr. Hawk HPS frt & rr. RS4 PS rack, RS4 Servotronic Relay,RS4 rims. S4 mirror caps,DTM frt bmpr and rs4 fogs,LED tail lites
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    2007 A4 Avant 2.0T Tiptronic 6spd

  39. #39
    Veteran Member Four Rings aluthman's Avatar
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    Mar 24 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by vce1232000 View Post
    Probably when the connecting rod separated from the crankshaft. This allowed the engine to over rev and caused related damages . Perpetual motion in effect until boom nothing else moves
    Don't think that was it. The engine was actually still running (very roughly) on 3 cylinders when I pulled to the side of the road. RPM never went above about 4k. I'll pull the blown motor apart and look for clues after the car is running again. I'll put together an autopsy report with anything I find in my build thread when I get time.
    -Adam

    '07 DTM A4 2.0T|6MT|EFR 7163 Twin Scroll|DoTuning|Built Motor|Meth and other go fast stuff…
    '06 A4 2.0T Quattro - RIP (Best ¼ mile pass 13.634 @ 103.30)

  40. #40
    Veteran Member Four Rings vce1232000's Avatar
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    Jun 17 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by aluthman View Post
    Don't think that was it. The engine was actually still running (very roughly) on 3 cylinders when I pulled to the side of the road. RPM never went above about 4k. I'll pull the blown motor apart and look for clues after the car is running again. I'll put together an autopsy report with anything I find in my build thread when I get time.
    Hmmm you got my curiosity going now
    APR KO4, APR HPFP,RS4 LPFP Cntr,145 bar PRV, APR TP, TT DP, GFB DV+, AWE FMIC, BFI CC, AWE Exhaust, RS4 Exh tips, ST CO, 034 RSB,034 St Dnsty Mtr Mts, New Sth West Bst guage, B7 RS4 8 pot Calipers.Goodridge SS brake lines frt & rr. Hawk HPS frt & rr. RS4 PS rack, RS4 Servotronic Relay,RS4 rims. S4 mirror caps,DTM frt bmpr and rs4 fogs,LED tail lites
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    2007 A4 Avant 2.0T Tiptronic 6spd

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