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  1. #1
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Mobil 1 vs Liqui Moly and STP/Champ filter?

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    Hi guys . I am going to change my own oil this Veteran's Day weekend. I have never done it before but I am giving it a shot based on this: http://www.euroaddiction.net/forum/b...er-change.html.

    I have 10 quarts on Mobile 1 ready to go but someone recently told me to go with Luqui Moly and stay away from Mobil 1 (that I bought from Wal Mart for $25.00 for 5 quarts). Using Mobil 1 would be a helluva lot easier for me but I want to use good oil. Please offer your suggestions on whether one oil is better than another.

    Also, I can get a STP of Champ oil filter from AutoZone for about 23 bucks. Am I okay to use one of these filters or should I get an OEM from my local dealer?

    Thanks in advance.




  2. #2
    Senior Member Two Rings rockstar's Avatar
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    Mobil 1 vs Liqui Moly and STP/Champ filter?

    Rotella t6 is better and cheaper than the two. If you search the treads on AZ, you'll see a lot of good reviews for the rotella t6 on the v8's over the mobile one and other oils. I'm making the switch to rotella next oil change.

    I'm currently running Mann filter and liqui Molly. Stick to the OEM filters.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings dparm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockstar View Post
    Rotella t6 is better and cheaper than the two. If you search the treads on AZ, you'll see a lot of good reviews for the rotella t6 on the v8's over the mobile one and other oils. I'm making the switch to rotella next oil change.

    I'm currently running Mann filter and liqui Molly. Stick to the OEM filters.

    Umm, no it isn't. Not by a longshot. But go ahead and change if you want.

    Without seeing the filters it's hard to say, but I suspect they're fine.
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  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings Mr.Wrong's Avatar
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    I ran all three (lubro molly, rotella t6, m1)and prefer M1. I think it's the best OTC oil you could get, and definitely best bang for the buck.
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  5. #5
    Senior Member Two Rings rockstar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dparm View Post
    Umm, no it isn't. Not by a longshot. But go ahead and change if you want.

    Without seeing the filters it's hard to say, but I suspect they're fine.
    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showpost.php?p=9208829

    That's a post yourself has quoted that rotella is a good oil for the price. Sure it's not vw approved, but at the end of the day oil is oil. If you search the treads many have said including the infamous blackstone laboratory, that rotella t6 samples are some of the best oil samples ever seen in a gas/Diesel engine. Not telling everyone to change there oil preference or what one thinks is good oil. But for the price of the rotella t6 jugs and the awesome lab reports over mobile 1 and others against t6, this has something to say its good oil to run.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Two Rings rockstar's Avatar
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  7. #7
    Senior Member Two Rings rockstar's Avatar
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    Blackstone lab report on mobile 1:

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showpost.php?p=9137214

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings dparm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockstar View Post
    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showpost.php?p=9208829

    That's a post yourself has quoted that rotella is a good oil for the price. Sure it's not vw approved, but at the end of the day oil is oil. If you search the treads many have said including the infamous blackstone laboratory, that rotella t6 samples are some of the best oil samples ever seen in a gas/Diesel engine. Not telling everyone to change there oil preference or what one thinks is good oil. But for the price of the rotella t6 jugs and the awesome lab reports over mobile 1 and others against t6, this has something to say its good oil to run.


    FFS it is not "Mobile 1" it's Mobil 1.


    Anyway, M1 0w40 is the same price as Rotella T6 ($23 for a jug at Wal-Mart) and beats it in basically every category: availability, manufacturer approvals, viscosity index, institute approvals, and value. To be fair, I did not call Rotella a good oil for the price. Rotella T6 is an okay oil, but M1 0w40 is a great oil.

    How is posting two UOAs from different vehicles at all proof or even slight evidence that Rotella is better? UOAs only indicate how well a given oil is performing under those specific conditions. You can use it to baseline against your own previous reports, not against someone else's. No two motors are alike, just like no two drivers are alike. I'd suggest you go spend some time on Bob Is The Oil Guy and you may change your perspective on the relative value of a UOA.

    The reason I called you out is that your post is a blanket statement, and your "oil is oil" comment is just flat-out wrong. Don't take it personally -- there is a lot to understand about motor oil and you should try to educate yourself as a consumer, especially when it comes to a $55,000 car's engine.
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  9. #9
    Senior Member Two Rings rockstar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dparm View Post
    FFS it is not "Mobile 1" it's Mobil 1.


    Anyway, M1 0w40 is the same price as Rotella T6 ($23 for a jug at Wal-Mart) and beats it in basically every category: availability, manufacturer approvals, viscosity index, institute approvals, and value. How is posting two UOAs from different vehicles at all proof or even slight evidence that Rotella is better? I'd suggest you go spend some time on Bob Is The Oil Guy and you may change your opinion. Rotella T6 is an okay oil, but M1 0w40 is a great oil.

    As an aside, UOAs only indicate how well a given oil is performing under those specific conditions. You can use it to baseline against your own previous reports, not against someone else's. No two motors are alike, just like no two drivers are alike.
    I agree on the oil reports no harm intended. I was just hearing all these great reviews on the rotella t6. Who is bob the oil guy?

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings jr1415us's Avatar
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    Save yourself some coin on the filter.The NAPA Gold oil filter is a repackaged Hengst filter. Should cost around 13-15 dollars.
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  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings dparm's Avatar
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    Lightbulb

    Since we're talking about Mobil 1 0w40 and Shell Rotella T6 5w40, let's compare them. All information taken from the manufacturers' websites:



    Approvals


    M1

    API SN/SM/SL/SJ
    ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4

    Manufacturer approvals:
    Mercedes 229.3
    Mercedes 229.5
    BMW Long-Life 01
    VW 502 00
    VW 505 00
    Porsche A40

    Meets/exceeds, but not formally approved:
    API CF
    VW 503 01
    SAAB
    OPEL Long Life Service Fill GM-LL-A-025
    OPEL Diesel Service Fill GM-LL-B-025
    FIAT FIAT 9.55535 – M2
    FIAT FIAT 9.55535 – N2
    FIAT FIAT 9.55535 – Z2
    Nissan GT-R


    T6

    API SM/SL/SJ/SH
    API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4
    ACEA E9
    JASO DH2, MA

    Manufacturer approvals: -- note, Shell doesn't clearly differentiate between formal approval & recommended
    Caterpillar ECF-3, ECF-2
    Cummins CES 20081
    DDC 93K218
    Ford WSS-M2C171-E
    Mack EO-O Premium Plus
    Mercedes 228.31
    Volvo VDS-4



    Analysis:

    Mobil 1 0w40 carries the newest API certification of SN, meaning it is a very modern formula. It is also ACEA A3/B4 rated, indicating the European Automakers Association approves it for use in high-performance gasoline engines. M1 also has official approval from Mercedes, VW, and Porsche for use in their vehicles. That means it was submitted for testing (not free) and meets their strict requirements. Porsche A40 is one of the toughest manufacturer specifications to meet, by the way. M1 is also suitable, but not officially approved, for use in diesel engines (API CF). CF is an older spec but this isn't a surprise as it wasn't really designed for use in a diesel. Mobil is also confident that it can be used in some other applications, such as the GT-R (it's the factory fill), but hasn't paid for the formal approval.

    T6 is API SM, which is a slightly older approval. Shell has chosen not to seek SN approval for some reason: cost, inability to meet the approval, or belief that the SM formula is "better". T6 does handily beat out Mobil 1 with the API approvals in the diesel category, as seen in the CJ-4 and other CX-X approvals. Clearly it is a diesel engine oil that can be used in gasoline engines too. The JASO approvals mean it can be used in some powersports equipment like motorcycles, ATVs, snowmobiles, etc. Shell doesn't clearly state what official manufacturer approvals they've received, so we have to be cautious and assume it is NOT formally approved. The list is indeed long, giving credibility to T6 as a versatile lubricant for a [diesel] fleet operator.


    Conclusion:

    For the S4, Mobil 1 0w40 wins on virtue of carrying the latest API gasoline certification and on carrying the VW 502/505 approval as required by the owner's manual.






    Technical Specifications



    M1

    Kinematic viscosity @ 40 C: 75
    Kinematic viscosity @ 100 C: 13.5
    Viscosity index: 185

    MRV @ -40 C: 31,000

    HTHS: 3.8

    TBN: 11.8

    Pour point: ???
    Flash point: 230 C



    T6

    Kinematic viscosity @ 40 C: 87
    Kinematic viscosity @ 100 C: 14.2
    Viscosity index: 169

    MRV @ -40 C: ???

    HTHS: ??? (hypothesized to be 4.2)

    TBN: 10.6

    Pour point: -42 C
    Flash point: 224 C




    Analysis:

    Right away we see that M1 0w40 possesses a very high viscosity index of 185. This is almost unmatched in the Xw40 category and is beaten only by Motul 300V 0w40's 186, Red Line 0w40's 190, and Renewable Lube's BioSyn 5w40 with 189. None of those can be had for $5/qt any day of the week (they retail for $12/qt+) nor carry any manufacturer approvals. We also see a very strong virgin TBN of 11.8, indicating that it would work well for long-drain intervals or in motors that see high crankcase acid formation, such as from infrequent use or repeated short-tripping. The HTHS of 3.8 makes this a "light 40".

    T6 is a heavy oil with a very mediocre viscosity index of 169. For a modern 5w40, and one of Shell's halo products, this is fairly disappointing. We don't know the exact HTHS since Shell chooses not to publish it, but anecdotal evidence indicates it is somewhere around 4.2. This is certainly on the heavier side for an Xw40 and not far off from Xw50 territory, and means it will impose more pumping losses on an engine, and reject heat shedding compared to a lighter Xw40. T6 does have a strong starting TBN of 10.6, so it is suitable for longer change intervals or acid-prone powertrains.


    Conclusion:

    For the S4, Mobil 1 0w40 handily wins again with a much higher viscosity index (9% higher) and by being on the lighter side of the Xw40 viscosity grade. This translates to better flow characteristics at all temperatures and hence better protection at startup, normal operation, and in high-stress situations. T6's higher HTHS means that it will be some 10% thicker in operation, causing the oil pressure to be higher than is necessary and being slower to shed heat. The vast majority of VW 502/505 oils have HTHS of 3.6-3.8, so it is clear that Audi doesn't believe a heavier oil is required.
    Last edited by dparm; 11-06-2013 at 07:01 PM.
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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings dparm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockstar View Post
    I agree on the oil reports no harm intended. I was just hearing all these great reviews on the rotella t6. Who is bob the oil guy?
    http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/
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  13. #13
    Established Member Two Rings tboo72's Avatar
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    dparm knows his oil. Listen to him and go with M1.
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  14. #14
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    i went from Mobil 1 to Luqui Moly

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings WinterRunner's Avatar
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    Mobil one has my vote, cheaper, more common, rich in esters, and everything else Dparm laid out. This is my oil report with mobil one.
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  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings dparm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WinterRunner View Post

    Mobil one has my vote, cheaper, more common, rich in esters, and everything else Dparm laid out. This is my oil report with mobil one.


    FYI, M1 0w40 has almost no esters. It contains alkylated napthalenes, which are a group V much like esters, but it's not the same thing.
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  17. #17
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    I have no idea what you guys are talking about but after reading a bunch of threads I am going to stock up with the Mobil 1 lol

  18. #18
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by tekkie View Post
    I have no idea what you guys are talking about but after reading a bunch of threads I am going to stock up with the Mobil 1 lol
    Word up! Thanks for all of the knowledge and info. You guys kick ass! I love Audizine!

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Three Rings Baggio's Avatar
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    Debating on a 5000 mile vs 10,000 mile oil change intervals. I have about 1600 miles on a Castrol Edge 5W40 and I am still full. No top off needed as of yet. Is it safe to go 10,000 miles with synthetics like Castrol or M1 or stick to a 5000 mile change interval? Seems to be different views on the Internet regarding these change intervals.
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  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings dparm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baggio View Post
    Debating on a 5000 mile vs 10,000 mile oil change intervals. I have about 1600 miles on a Castrol Edge 5W40 and I am still full. No top off needed as of yet. Is it safe to go 10,000 miles with synthetics like Castrol or M1 or stick to a 5000 mile change interval? Seems to be different views on the Internet regarding these change intervals.
    Depends on your driving habits. 5k is probably too soon for most people, but 10k might be a stretch if you aren't mostly highway miles.
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  21. #21
    Veteran Member Three Rings Baggio's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dparm View Post
    Depends on your driving habits. 5k is probably too soon for most people, but 10k might be a stretch if you aren't mostly highway miles.
    Ah, OK. Is 7500 a happy medium? Lol!
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  22. #22
    Senior Member Two Rings Fritz_S4's Avatar
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    Hey dparm, I spent the day reading up on motor oil cause it seems it's fairly important to our engines. now from the link you reccommended it seems that "Bob" is recommending running the thinnest oil possible in our motors because thinner oil requires less pressure to be pushed through the engine and therefore equates to more flow for cooling and lubrication.

    That being said is there a reason everyone on here reccomends running a 0W-40 grade instead of a lighter 0W-30 Grade oil? From what I understand the 0W-30 should be a better fit since it would be better suited to lubricate the engine and keep temps down while being easier on the pump and at the same time be less thick at start up making less engine wear and ultimately prolonging the life of our babies?

    Is it solely because of the oil consumption issues? Because if that's the case I prefer topping off my oil more often rather than wearing out my engine faster.

    Would you be able to enlighten me on this subject? and if this has been discussed I apologise for not searching appropriately and a simple link to the relevant discussion will suffice for an answer.

  23. #23
    Senior Member Two Rings lathdogg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baggio View Post
    Debating on a 5000 mile vs 10,000 mile oil change intervals. I have about 1600 miles on a Castrol Edge 5W40 and I am still full. No top off needed as of yet. Is it safe to go 10,000 miles with synthetics like Castrol or M1 or stick to a 5000 mile change interval? Seems to be different views on the Internet regarding these change intervals.
    I say change it at least once per 12 months (regardless of miles), or a maximum of 5000 miles. Frequent oil changes are an easy, inexpensive way to keep your car well maintained. As many oil related problems this engine can have, why drive around with old used oil in your engine?
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  24. #24
    Veteran Member Three Rings MidwestB6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lathdogg View Post
    I say change it at least once per 12 months (regardless of miles), or a maximum of 5000 miles. Frequent oil changes are an easy, inexpensive way to keep your car well maintained. As many oil related problems this engine can have, why drive around with old used oil in your engine?
    +1
    I'd rather change oil too often than not enough.
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  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings dparm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fritz_S4 View Post
    Hey dparm, I spent the day reading up on motor oil cause it seems it's fairly important to our engines. now from the link you reccommended it seems that "Bob" is recommending running the thinnest oil possible in our motors because thinner oil requires less pressure to be pushed through the engine and therefore equates to more flow for cooling and lubrication.

    That being said is there a reason everyone on here reccomends running a 0W-40 grade instead of a lighter 0W-30 Grade oil? From what I understand the 0W-30 should be a better fit since it would be better suited to lubricate the engine and keep temps down while being easier on the pump and at the same time be less thick at start up making less engine wear and ultimately prolonging the life of our babies?

    Is it solely because of the oil consumption issues? Because if that's the case I prefer topping off my oil more often rather than wearing out my engine faster.

    Would you be able to enlighten me on this subject? and if this has been discussed I apologise for not searching appropriately and a simple link to the relevant discussion will suffice for an answer.




    It's a fair question. To be honest, the SAE viscosity grades don't tell the real story about operational viscosity. A given viscosity grade, such as 0w40, allows for a range of viscosities when cold, and another range of viscosities when warm. And even then, it's only at two levels that the oil doesn't spend much time at: 40 C and 100 C. The oil in the sump is probably averaging 100 C, but in the most important parts of the motor (valvetrain, bearings, etc) it's well above that. It's why I recommend you judge an oil's viscosity by its HTHS value. You can think of HTHS as "viscosity at 150 C", a more accurate indicator of operational viscosity since oil will hit 300 F and higher in the motor's hot-spots.

    That being said, you do want an oil that's as thin as possible but as thick as necessary. When you look at the VW 502/505 approval list, the vast majority of those oils have HTHS of 3.6-3.8. It's why I am not a big fan of an oil with HTHS >4.0 in this motor: it steals horsepower & MPG, the oil runs hotter, oil pressure is elevated, and it makes the oil pump work harder than it needs to.

    M1 0w40 is really as thick as you probably need in the S4, even if you drive it hard (HTHS is 3.8). There aren't many 0w30s that carry the VW 502/505 approval. Most 0w30s are "thin 30s" with HTHS around 3.0-3.2, which is below the minimum 3.5 threshold that Audi wants. Most of those thin-30s are designed to be resource-conserving oils, meaning they're intentionally thin to improve gas mileage. The only 0w30s I would run would be Renewable Lube BioSyn (HTHS 3.8), Castrol Edge (HTHS 3.6), and Motul X-Lite (HTHS 3.6). Of those, the Renewable Lube is an outstanding oil with a high viscosity index that's made right here in america from bio-esters.

    So yes, M1 0w40 and Renewable Lube 0w30 both have HTHS of 3.8...meaning that although M1 appears thicker on paper, it is the same viscosity in operation as the RLI 0w30.


    Why does Audi want something so thick? Hard to say with any certainty, but it's probably some combination of these. For the record, BMW, Mercedes, VW, and Porsche adhere to very similar requirements:

    1. thicker oils are consumed or leak more slowly (supports the longer change interval)
    2. going too thin might compromise protection for sustained high-speed driving, such as on the autobahn
    3. most Xw40 oils are performance-oriented and have additive packs designed for maximum high-temp protection
    4. "better safe than sorry" attitude from long ago when motors were oil cooled
    Last edited by dparm; 11-07-2013 at 08:26 PM.
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  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings dparm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lathdogg View Post
    I say change it at least once per 12 months (regardless of miles), or a maximum of 5000 miles. Frequent oil changes are an easy, inexpensive way to keep your car well maintained. As many oil related problems this engine can have, why drive around with old used oil in your engine?

    Until you have a baseline established by getting some analyses, you shouldn't just assume that 12 months or 5k is the "maximum". Although no two motors are the same, nor are any two driving styles the same, most people here can easily go past 5k/12 months. The VW 502/505 spec, coupled with the huge sump, allows for a longer interval.

    I really recommend paying the small fee for the analysis to see how that oil is working. Here's my car on Motul 300V 5w40 after 5k/10 months, including a track day and some autocrosses, and a lot of short trips in cold weather. Clearly had life left in it (TBN is > 1.0 and viscosity/dilution still well within spec). The oil in the right-most column is the "coveted" Lubro-Moly Synthoil Premium 5w40 at 5k, which also looked just fine and had life left in it.

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  27. #27
    Senior Member Two Rings Fritz_S4's Avatar
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    Thanks for the explanation, makes more sense now. Never heard of Renewable Lube (don't know if they export to Canada). As always, good info

  28. #28
    Senior Member Two Rings lathdogg's Avatar
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    My oil change intervals are partly psychological/climate based. I really like knowing my car has fresh oil in there, especially during extreme cold weather starts. I just changed my oil at 2800 miles (11 months), due to the fact that it is starting to get below freezing here almost every night. Luckily I don't DD my car, however if and when I drive this winter I will feel good knowing I'm on fresh oil. I DIY with Mobil 1 0-40, and $70 dollars is more than worth the piece of mind I get by changing my oil before "it's time".
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