DIY Metal Slave Cylinder Line Conversion

[A1 A2 German]

Here's what you need to make the kit to replace the soft oem plastic slave cylinder and oem rubber line, priced around $93 shipped to your door.




1) Fitting: http://store.034motorsport.com/maste...tting-3an.html $20
2) Fiting: 3AN to 12mmx1.25 adapter : $8 shipped
3)Stainless Steel Brake Line Staight 3 An 90 degree 3an @ 24 inches long (You can go longer, if you went with a 40" plus it'll allow you to drop your transmission with the slave still on it.) $16.99 shipped
4) SACHS SH6141 Metal Master Cylinder $48 shipped


Rough install instructions per USP:
http://uspmotorsports.com/downloads/...structions.pdf


Part 1) mates the steel line to master cylinder
PArt 2) mates the steel line to the slave cylinder

Results are pretty big. Most parts sourced off Ebay.

Before and after, the after pic is missing the 3AN to 12mmx1.25 adapter but needed to complete install.

[biketsai]

What differences did you feel?

[A1 A2 German]

Cut the effort to press in the clutch by half, if not more.

However not needed on oem, it'd only be nice to have or replace if the plastic unit went out. However it will make very stiff and undesirable clutchs feel as light as oem. So no more of that dreaded stop and go daily driving on big clutches.

There's something else and didn't mention it as not sure if related but I'd say it's have to be. The throw of the stick shift from gear to gear, or neutral to gear is.....so flipping light it doesn't even feel like the stick shift is contented to the shift cables. It's so effortless to go from gear to gear you can do it with a finger . I don't know what's going on there. It was always easy, but now it's totally effortless like it's just a bare mounted stick shifter unconnected to anything. It's been ~2 months since install with no issues.

[mysman]

Cut the effort to press in the clutch by half, if not more.

However not needed on oem, it'd only be nice to have or replace if the plastic unit went out. However it will make very stiff and undesirable clutchs feel as light as oem. So no more of that dreaded stop and go daily driving on big clutches.

There's something else and didn't mention it as not sure if related but I'd say it's have to be. The throw of the stick shift from gear to gear, or neutral to gear is.....so flipping light it doesn't even feel like the stick shift is contented to the shift cables. It's so effortless to go from gear to gear you can do it with a finger . I don't know what's going on there. It was always easy, but now it's totally effortless like it's just a bare mounted stick shifter unconnected to anything. It's been ~2 months since install with no issues.

Wouldn't a lighter pedal mean higher mechanical/hydraulic advantage, meaning less movement at the throwout? Did you happen to measure the difference in piston diameter?

[Gaberossi]

This was the best thing I did to my clutch setup last year, the Metal slave gives me piece of mind knowing that its not plastic like the OEM slave XD
Nice simple write up.

[revbjeff]

I'm thinking about doing this upgrade as all together it looks to be about $100 cheap than buying the kit USP sales. I have a couple question as I'm a bit confused.

Part number 1, does it just slide into where the factory line goes, then you just attach with a worm clamp?

Can this be done while the master cylinder is still in the car? I believe my slave cylinder has gone bad and would rather remove as few parts as possible.

Also how does it all go together? I'm guessing:

slave cylinder-->12mmx1.25 adapter to 3an-->3an fitting-->Stainless Fuel Line-->3An-->3an to 12x1.25mm adapter-->Master Cylinder

Is this correct?

I appreciate the help this is my first time changing a slave cylinder any input/suggestions are greatly appreciated, thanks guys/gals!

[GrapeBandit]

^thanks, nice bump i never saw this thread, and im on here like every day!

[Seerlah]

Why isn't this in the DIY section? Mods?

[revbjeff]

Sweet now I feel like I'm helping!!

[GrapeBandit]

Why isn't this in the DIY section? Mods?

x2

Sweet now I feel like I'm helping!!

you helped me lol

[BaseDrifter]

Mods?

What mods? I've written multiple DIY articles that aren't in the DIY section lol.

[GrapeBandit]

What mods? I've written multiple DIY articles that aren't in the DIY section lol.

these mods. this one guy seems to be super active on the boards maybe shoot him a PM

[revbjeff]

You guys have any input on my questions?

[walky_talky20]

I "converted" my car to use a metal slave without any of the fancy AN fittings or custom adapters. Just one 3/16" compression union fitting and a couple inches of copper/nickel alloy brake line.


Obviously, this is not the baller option that gives you a braided steel line. But it gets you to a metal slave for about $2.

[rodgertherabit]

well well well... adding this to the list haha

[A1 A2 German]

The complete kit, 4 pieces:

The #1 part from 034 slides into the master, the steel line screws into it and goes down to the metal slave, #2 is an adapter that helps join the steel line to the master cylinder. Even if you didn't know what you're doing, it can only all go together one way so it's fail safe.

You have to remove the master, as to slide #1 into the master you can't as the brake booster is in the way.

[walky_talky20]

Benefit of my cheapskate method is that you do not need to move the master or brake booster. You use the existing line and just change the end "in place" to suit the metal slave.

Also, why no talk of converting to the metal clutch master? Seems like people are hot to trot on these metal slaves, but everyone is somehow ok with keeping their plastic master. Seems odd.

[GrapeBandit]

^are our plastic slaves prone to failure? ive never had to replace a slave on any of the 4 b5's ive owned in the past 14yrs

[revbjeff]

From what I've read I believe my car (97 1.8tQM) came stock with the metal slave cylinder. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

With that in mind I'm hoping that my issue is just related to the line between slave and master.

So next question iiiissss:

To do it the "cheap" way (I just want to avoid unbolting the transmission) I would just disconnect the line from the slave cylinder, add the 3/16" compression fittings for the slave side, flare the end of the line and screw it back onto the slave cylinder?

Sorry if I seem to be asking to be spoon fed I just can't afford to fuck the car up and I need it for work. Again I greatly appreciate the help while I wait for a Bentley manual.

[GrapeBandit]

you dont need to take the trans off to get the slave cylinder off. the slave is one bolt, i think its a 6mm allen. i should remember too since i just took it off a few days ago to drop the trans lol

[walky_talky20]

^are our plastic slaves prone to failure? ive never had to replace a slave on any of the 4 b5's ive owned in the past 14yrs

No, not really. But much of the reason for switching to this slave is just a 'pursuit of metal parts' and not so much a real performance difference. People are changing the slave and line. It would follow that persons would also be interested in changing the plastic master, but such is not the case for whatever reason. Probably lack of visibility and accessibility of the parts. Perhaps also a lack of pioneers to show the way and describe the imagined benefits.

From what I've read I believe my car (97 1.8tQM) came stock with the metal slave cylinder. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

If the car has a plastic slave, it also has a plastic master. The vin-split for the parts is the same. So you either have both metal or both plastic, unless you modify something.

To do it the "cheap" way I would just disconnect the line from the slave cylinder, add the 3/16" compression fittings for the slave side, flare the end of the line and screw it back onto the slave cylinder?

I flared a short new section of line with the 12x1.25 nut to connect to the metal slave. Then used a compression union to join the A4 line to my new piece. I was using this slave, which requires a bit of added length:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Site...21_261/ES1453/

If you are using a slave that looks like this, it has a sort of extension that comes with it. So you can probably get away without adding any line at all. Just cut off the barb fitting and flare the line. All you need is the 12x1.25 line nut. My slave was used and came with the nut, but if yours is new, you'll have to buy one.

[revbjeff]

So if I have the slave you don't have I'd need to replace the long metal cylinder piece with this (which is the piece to screw into slave AND the piece to add to the line)? I'm not understanding where the line plugs into on the slave. The other port is to bleed the cylinder correct?

Thanks for all the help Walky_Talky20 you're like the Wikipedia of B5's.

[GrapeBandit]

"if it aint broke, dont fix it"-wise man

[revbjeff]

"if it aint broke, dont fix it"-wise man

Well.... it's broke.

After looking a little more it looks like instead of getting the piece I linked to on Amazon I could just use a tube nut?

[walky_talky20]

Indeed. Like I said, you simply need to cut off the barb fitting, slide a flare nut on, flare the line and hook it up. The compression jazz is only if you need to extend the line or join 2 pieces (like I had to do).

Although, making up a pre-flared line section on the bench and simply joining that to your line will simplify the "on-car" work. You can do it however you want.

For the nut, you need one of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AGS-Steel-Tu...hUWpYE&vxp=mtr

That's a bubble flare line nut for 3/16" tubing with 12mm x 1.0 threads. It's fairly rare, I would say.

[Koldham]

my metal master cylinder went out months after i replaced the failed plastic one, it still works kinda but the upper stop or whatever is broken so it smashed the cruse control vacuum switch and sits 2 inches higher than stock. gonna go with OEM plastic one day...

[mauromj]

Bumping this to the top.

I just got the Sachs slave in, along with a m12x1.25 to 3an fitting. The fitting would only thread in about 1 thread. Looks like the Sachs slave is a finer thread, maybe m12x1.0? Can anyone confirm this?

[mauromj]

Well, already found the answer in another thread. It appears that the correct size is m12x1.0

Looks like A1 A2 German made a typo in this post, because in another thread he said:

Thanks, here's the parts list:

1) Sachs 6141 Metal Slave $48 (x1) -Ebay
2) M12x1.0 to 3AN fitting $9 (x1) -Ebay
3) 24" 3 AN Stainless Brake Line, have atleast one end a 90 degree fitting, yet could do both 90's & maybe easier yet $17 (x1) -Ebay
4) 034 Motorsport Master and Slave Cylinder Adapter Fitting in 3AN ($27 Shipped) -034 Motorsport

$101 or, $94 if you get free shipping with 034.

The 3AN line, you might, be able to pull it off with a 20", however it gives you very little wiggle room so l'll take the extra 4" for $1 more or the 20".

Uggg.....not even sure I want to do it, I have other projects and can simply pop in another plastic oem one in a snap.

[OverSpun]

...Moved to DIY / Tech Forum