Main bearing issue

[ToXicXxX]

I'm currently installing my crankshaft and there are 5 bearings with the oil channel and only 3 without (none of this including the thrust bearings). They are Mahle bearings.

What do I do with the top one with the oiler path? There isn't a top cap with an oiler path, so I'm confused.

[Seerlah]

Should have gone with Glyco. Don't forget your thrust washers. And an FYI, I used Mahle rod bearings and spun a rod bearing on one cylinder. I plasti-gauged, used a quality digital torque wrench, and it spun. Not sure if it was that or the Permatex assembly lube. Next time around I used Kolbenschmidt rod bearings (what IE uses), Glyco main bearings, Glyco thrust washers, and Amsoil assembly lube. Worked out fine this time around.

[ToXicXxX]

Should have gone with Glyco. Don't forget your thrust washers. And an FYI, I used Mahle rod bearings and spun a rod bearing on one cylinder. I plasti-gauged, used a quality digital torque wrench, and it spun. Not sure if it was that or the Permatex assembly lube. Next time around I used Kolbenschmidt rod bearings (what IE uses), Glyco main bearings, Glyco thrust washers, and Amsoil assembly lube. Worked out fine this time around.

Think mine might actually be glyco, the rod bearings are Mahle though. The thrust was integrated in the bearing.

It seems number 4 is a 360 bearing. Can't find why though.

Used redline assembly lube.

It's fine I put lube under the bearing on the rods and journal? I hope so because the head is on now.

[Seerlah]

Absolutely not!!! Dry between the cap/rod and bearing. Lube between crankshaft journal and bearings. Same goes for main bearings. No lube between bearings and main caps or engine cast. I made sure I made those surfaces extra dry and clean.

The assembly lube is only meant for where friction is. A substitute till oil can properly keep it lubricated. I made sure I made those surfaces extra dry and clean.

[ToXicXxX]

Absolutely not!!! Dry between the cap/rod and bearing. Lube between crankshaft journal and bearings. Same goes for main bearings. No lube between bearings and main caps or engine cast. I made sure I made those surfaces extra dry and clean.

The assembly lube is only meant for where friction is. A substitute till oil can properly keep it lubricated. I made sure I made those surfaces extra dry and clean.

Is it gonna be a serious problem? I really can't take it apart and fix this dude... My local shop I bought my stuff from told me to do this...

[Seerlah]

Why would they tell you to do this? Not sure what problems would happen, and don't really want to know.

[ToXicXxX]

Why would they tell you to do this? Not sure what problems would happen, and don't really want to know.

No idea, I'm not them. But this is what happened.

Has anyone at all done this? Can I just try it?

[ZimbutheMonkey]

Is it gonna be a serious problem? I really can't take it apart and fix this dude... My local shop I bought my stuff from told me to do this...

Please don't tell me it was Calgary Autoworks...

[ToXicXxX]

Please don't tell me it was Calgary Autoworks...

Where it was is not important.

can I fix this without pulling the head? And will anyone local stock new main bolts and a crank bolt... I need them tomorrow. I was just going to pull the crank with the head on, use brake cleaner to clean the lube out and dry it, press them back in and tighten it back down with new bolts.

[redline380]

yeah, its a problem. especially during startup when theres no oil in the galleys. you could spin a bearing

dont use break clean either. wipe the surface very well until there is no lube whatsoever between the bearing and cap. you can do this with the head on but the crank must come out. i'm not sure how many times you've installed bearings but its not something you want to fuck up. lube is good, but in the wrong places its bad.

[ToXicXxX]

yeah, its a problem. especially during startup when theres no oil in the galleys. you could spin a bearing

dont use break clean either. wipe the surface very well until there is no lube whatsoever between the bearing and cap. you can do this with the head on but the crank must come out. i'm not sure how many times you've installed bearings but its not something you want to fuck up. lube is good, but in the wrong places its bad.

Zero times.

Alright... Fuck I knew that seemed wrong.

Oil gets into there anyways does it not?

I doubt I can find those main bolts, a triple square crank bolt or that flimsy front main gasket easily tomorrow.

[Seerlah]

You can reuse the main seals since the engine was not started yet. Heck, I reused a rear main seal (against advice) with a few miles on it (not sure how many). Person I picked up my spare block from is a Porsche tech (member on here) and said it was almost new. When I got it, material was still soft and in like brand new condition. No problems yet reusing that. But it was a judgement call.

[ToXicXxX]

Well... I ended up having to buy a $150 ARO main bolt set... That kinda sucks. But no more lube under them.

I'm more worried about that flimsy back gasket. I put anaerobic silicone on it so it's probably gonna tear.

[redline380]

whats a "back gasket"?

[ToXicXxX]

whats a "back gasket"?

Haha... Little paper gasket on the timing belt side.

[redline380]

you'll have to be more specific than that. a gasket for what? in between which two surfaces?

[ToXicXxX]

you'll have to be more specific than that. a gasket for what? in between which two surfaces?

Never mind. I got a new one. $2.50.

[catbed]

I see no problem cleaning the backside of bearings and the block/main caps with brakleen. Acetone is another alternative.

As for bearings, I rev to 8k on OEM bearings. No problems almost 15k miles later. Oil channeled bearings go on block side IIRC.

[zandrew]

The bearings you got are indeed Glyco. The rods are Mahle. The full oil ring goes on cylinder 4. I know a lot of people have their own opinions on bearings but me personally I like King bearings which I could not find for our car. ITM repackages them though so I do have set.

I like denatured alcohol for cleaning surfaces but anything that dries quickly and does not leave any residue will work fine. I know some guys that lube both sides of the bearings BUT I don't. That first startup can cause issues and extra lube can make it easier to spin them and you don't want to do that.

[ToXicXxX]

Took them out, cleaned everything with brake cleaner, slapped in my new ARP studs. All is better now.