pending codes P2088, P0010, rough idle, loss of power, ESP light on. ideas appretiate

[pule333]

Hi Guys.
i have writen about my car troubles here a few times. after a failing cam follower. can read here: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ts-or-what-not!

anyways, the car has been "repaired" through extended warranty 3 fucking times.
1st time they replaced HPFP, DID NOT solve the problem,
2nd time replaced in tank fuel pump, didn't solve the problem,
3d time, replaced camshaft and tensioner FINALY and it did solve fuel cuts problem!!!!
BUT one week later i am having rough idle issues, ESP light comes on, Engine ligt is on, P0010 (Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1), P2088 (A Camshaft Position Actuator Control Circuit Low, Bank 1 ), P0101(Mass Air Flow (MAF) Circuit Range/Performance Problem) are popping up. i have check the MAf and clened it also pulled the control valve 06F109257A
as well as non of which seem broken to the eye.....
here is the video of idle. mind you the car is undrivable now but was ok for a week.
THE MAIN QUESTION IS: DID THE GARAGE FUCK UP THE TENSIONER WHILE INSTALLING or there some other problem i am not seeing. What would you do/? Go back to the garage? I know what they are gonna be saying, not our problem and will present me with another bill. or shall i bite the bullet and swp the tensioner myself like i wanted to do in the first place but decided to save money and go with warranty.

ANY help is a great help. Since its Weekend not much i can do NOW.

PS. not sure if it is related but my brake lights are constantly on. and my cruse control stopped working. i have replaced brake position switch that did not solve anything......

[gdlkn84as]

Just a shot in the dark

Timing belt off a tooth or two?

What tensioner did you have replaced? Cam chain, accessory, timing belt?

Edit: After more reading, I assume it was cam tensioner. If so, then I wonder if the chain is off a tooth?

What shop are you going to? Or dealer?

[p0isin]

It may not be related but the traction control light being on and the RPM's jumping and falling so much at idle could mean a large boost leak.

The hose from the turbo to the SMIC came loose one time on my car and so I was unable to build boost. No CEL came on but the traction control light came on and had very similar symptoms to what your car is doing in the video at idle.

Open the hood and take the belly pan off, then check all hoses to see if maybe one came loose.

[pule333]

Just a shot in the dark

Timing belt off a tooth or two?

What tensioner did you have replaced? Cam chain, accessory, timing belt?

Edit: After more reading, I assume it was cam tensioner. If so, then I wonder if the chain is off a tooth?

What shop are you going to? Or dealer?

Thanks for a reply,

do you mean a chain off a tooth?
they have replaced intake cam as well as chain tensioner as i been told. have no idea what brand.... but i suspect the cheapest they could find....
The shop is a local one to me all done Via extended warranty.... very fucking not happy with this shop that why dont want to go back even to complain. in fear they will fuck up something else! it been ther 3 times already as i mentioned...

[pule333]

It may not be related but the traction control light being on and the RPM's jumping and falling so much at idle could mean a large boost leak.

The hose from the turbo to the SMIC came loose one time on my car and so I was unable to build boost. No CEL came on but the traction control light came on and had very similar symptoms to what your car is doing in the video at idle.

Open the hood and take the belly pan off, then check all hoses to see if maybe one came loose.

you could be right, i will check my FMIC piping.. but i doubt it.. i tryed disconecting PCV piping and the idle changed as well so dont think its a leak...
i am more inclined to think its the chain skipped a tooth because the tension wasnt done properly. as i was driving and heard a slight knock inside and than the car stalled and i barely made it home....

[pule333]

as it turns out the piping did come off the FMIC. Cold side. But all the codes are there..... :(

[pule333]

Also after discovering a code 01826 it led me to believe one of the fuses in the ECU box was to blame, and I was right! 15A fuse was blown. This was keeping my brake lights always ON and cruise control not working. By swapping the fuse both of these problems have been fixed!!!

[p0isin]

Just curious, did you clear the codes or just restart the car? For the boost leak issue I had to clear the code it wouldn't go away on its own.

Edit: can't tell from your last post, did all codes go away?

[pule333]

Just curious, did you clear the codes or just restart the car? For the boost leak issue I had to clear the code it wouldn't go away on its own.

Edit: can't tell from your last post, did all codes go away?

Sadly no.. Main code P2088 is still there. That is the camshaft tension thingy.... Still not sure what to do, take it back to garage or do it myself? All other codes disappeared.. I cleared them all after fixing and after 20 min drive checked again and only this one stayed. Funny enough the car feels 10 times better now! Seems like that 15A fuse played an important role in drivability. Before car was supper sluggish, didn't want to move if release brake (tiptronic) didn't wanna rev unless pressing throttle almost half way... Not to mention brake light always on, no cruise control and ESP light on... Kinda makes you think why oh why would they put such an important fuse under there? It is such a royal PITA to get to it.... Lol had to take a wiper off to reach to the last screw on the cover for the ECU...

[gdlkn84as]

Wow, glad it turned out to be somewhat simple!

Maybe the last code needs to be cleared?

[pule333]

Wow, glad it turned out to be somewhat simple!

Maybe the last code needs to be cleared?

It doesn't go away, tried a million times. And also I can hear chain rattle in there slightly... Might take it back see what they say.