DIY: CVT TCM replacement

[akvanden]

This will be a work in progress as I was only able to take my TCM out tonight. I still have to ship it to be fixed at which point I'll finish once it's returned.

My car had the check engine light reading p0722 and the tranny just didn't feel quite right. It was not flashing the PRNDS like many others do but I didn't feel like waiting around until it did. I would say so far it's been pretty easy, maybe a medium difficulty. For reference, I've also replaced my timing belt as well as the power steering rack and so far this has been much easier.

Parts needed thus far
torx #30
torx #45
13mm socket
18mm socket
allen socket #10
triple square #10
and I believe a VAS 3357 Triple square "tamper proof"socket driver (thanks Audi)

1. Get your car off the ground and level as possible. I used ramps in front, jack stands in back.


2. Right side is the VAS 3357 and is the drain. Right side is a #10 allen and is the fill hole. I didn't have the 3357 so I just pulled the fill and let what it could drain. ( the rest will come out when you crack open the rear transmission cover)


3. This is the back of the tranny. You'll see the TCM electrical connection going in on the top. I've also highlighted 2 of 12 torx in red that hold the back of the tranny cover on and 2 of 4 triple squares. We'll get to that in a moment, but notice that the cross member is in our way so we'll need to move that.


4. Cross member removal. There are three 18mm bolts on each side of the cross member - remove them. You'll notice your transmission is also mounted to the cross member by 2 13mm nuts. They are located directly in the middle of the cross member as your looking up. Remove them. As you take the cross member apart, you'll notice the transmission start to ease down a bit - maybe a couple of inches. It scared me and made me wonder if my tranny was going to fall out but that was only because I don't know what I'm doing. After taking all the bolts out, I don't think you have to worry about bracing the tranny or anything but someone please chime in if that's needed so I can immediately go do that to mine.



5. After you take out all the bolts for the cross member, you need to slide it towards the back of the car. The exhaust won't let you fully take it out, so just wiggle it back so you have room to work.


6. Next we need to remove the transmission mount that still connected to the tranny held on by 4 triple square bolts.


7. Now you'll have a good obstruction free view of the back of the transmission. First thing we'll want to do is to remove the TCM electrical connection. I was worried this was going to be a b$%# to take off like other connectors I've had to deal with but this one is easy. All you have to do is crab the connector and turn counter-clockwise. There's a little tab on it that should help you do so.


8. Next you'd need to remove 3 bolts located at the top. I have no idea what this is so until someone can tell me, just remove it and don't ask any questions.


9. There will be 12 T45 torx holding on the back transmission panel so go ahead and start loosening them all. Beware though, if you didn't drain it properly like I did, just ease them out a little each so you don't splash the rest of the fluid all over once you finally crack the back case open.

10. After you've cracked the case and all the fluid has drained, carefully pull the back case over off. You'll now be able to see the TCM. There are three long T30 torx that hold the TCM in place. Remove all three, and then pull back very gently. I've been told this stuff is fragile so be careful.


11. And that's it. You're TCM is out so figure out who you're sending it to be fixed and wait until it's returned.

[customa4]

You should have something supporting the transmission. Nice DIY, hopefully I never have to do it but chances are I will.

[Xaero]

Old post i know, but any updates on this? What does it run to have the TCM repaired? Did you use VAG COM to refill the fluid or just "wing it" ?

[customa4]

You need Vag-Com. Winging it will cost you a lot more when you have to buy a new transmission. $350 compared to $5,000.

[y0itzflip]

I have no idea how you got the crossmember out without dropping the exhaust. no matter how I wiggle it, it's stuck on the tranny mount.

for what it's worth, I have the car on jack stands vs how you went about it, with ramps. would that make a difference?

also does anybody know how to properly remove the rectangle style plug for the tcm? I feel like I'm going to break it lol.

[y0itzflip]

for anybody else that may have had the same issues i had.

i was only able to get enough space after removing the transmission bracket from the transmission. then i used different extensions and a ratchet to get the bolts for the rear cover.

i also drained the transmission the same way since i didnt have the special tool.

oh, and the plug was easy, you just pull the lever on the plug to the left (towards driver side) and it eventually releases the plug (mine was pretty hard, thought i was going to break it)

im sending mine to repair module pro, i found on ebay with a lot of good reviews. it was about 240. just packed the TCM up and about to drop it off at the post office with my fingers crossed.


again, just adding to this thread as i go along since i didnt see much info about this.

[esamc2]

for anybody else that may have had the same issues i had.

i was only able to get enough space after removing the transmission bracket from the transmission. then i used different extensions and a ratchet to get the bolts for the rear cover.

i also drained the transmission the same way since i didnt have the special tool.

oh, and the plug was easy, you just pull the lever on the plug to the left (towards driver side) and it eventually releases the plug (mine was pretty hard, thought i was going to break it)

im sending mine to repair module pro, i found on ebay with a lot of good reviews. it was about 240. just packed the TCM up and about to drop it off at the post office with my fingers crossed.


again, just adding to this thread as i go along since i didnt see much info about this.

[esamc2]

for anybody else that may have had the same issues i had.

i was only able to get enough space after removing the transmission bracket from the transmission. then i used different extensions and a ratchet to get the bolts for the rear cover.

i also drained the transmission the same way since i didnt have the special tool.

oh, and the plug was easy, you just pull the lever on the plug to the left (towards driver side) and it eventually releases the plug (mine was pretty hard, thought i was going to break it)

im sending mine to repair module pro, i found on ebay with a lot of good reviews. it was about 240. just packed the TCM up and about to drop it off at the post office with my fingers crossed.


again, just adding to this thread as i go along since i didnt see much info about this.

I am planning on doing this next week. This is a great write up. Any more details on putting it back together, refilling the transmission etc??

[y0itzflip]

I am planning on doing this next week. This is a great write up. Any more details on putting it back together, refilling the transmission etc??

still waiting to get the TCM back in order to put it back together. i only put the trnasmission cover on to keep any debris out since im doing this in my driveway. mostly putting it back together is gonna be the exact opposite. most of the bolts only fit in one place, luckily, so itll be hard to mess that up. i heard you need vagcom to properly fill the transmission. i have the cable but the laptop died not too long ago so i havent been able to use it. trying to see if i can find a cheap laptop on craigslist to keep dedicated to vagcom usage.

oh and dont forget to order a new gasket for the transmission. the part number 01J301475N

its 8-10 dollars most places online. but then they charge shipping, so it ends up coming to 20 if you order online. im going to try my dealer because i cant justify paying such high shipping for an inexpensive part.


i will be posting here once i get the TCM back should be early next week. again i couldnt really find much info besides "buy a manual" or simply no replies. just post up if u have any questions, ill help with what i can.

[customa4]

FWIW I picket up a little netbook off of Craigslist for $40 with a dead hard drive. The guy didn't know what what was wrong with it but I had a good idea of what it was. I picked up a hard drive off eBay for like $30 and threw Windows XP on it. It also needed a charger that I got on Amazon for $12. So all in all about $82 and it's been running strong for about 4 years now strictly used with Vag-Com. I recently put an SSD in there for when I need to use it on the fly and it's a lot quicker now for an old crappy netbook. What do you need help with? I have the manuals for draining and filling the CVT. I also started a write up but never got around to finishing it. It could probably help if you need it, let me know.

[esamc2]

FWIW I picket up a little netbook off of Craigslist for $40 with a dead hard drive. The guy didn't know what what was wrong with it but I had a good idea of what it was. I picked up a hard drive off eBay for like $30 and threw Windows XP on it. It also needed a charger that I got on Amazon for $12. So all in all about $82 and it's been running strong for about 4 years now strictly used with Vag-Com. I recently put an SSD in there for when I need to use it on the fly and it's a lot quicker now for an old crappy netbook. What do you need help with? I have the manuals for draining and filling the CVT. I also started a write up but never got around to finishing it. It could probably help if you need it, let me know.

Thanks guys for the response. I will be starting the work on this tomorrow. I am sure I will have more questions after I start. I will keep everyone posted on the progress.

BTW I am planning on getting the TCM fixed from a listing on ebay. I think it is the first thing that pops up when you search for Audi TCM at about $239
http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-06-07-08-...4c9d56&vxp=mtr

Any one have knows if this is legit? reviews?

Thanks

[y0itzflip]

FWIW I picket up a little netbook off of Craigslist for $40 with a dead hard drive. The guy didn't know what what was wrong with it but I had a good idea of what it was. I picked up a hard drive off eBay for like $30 and threw Windows XP on it. It also needed a charger that I got on Amazon for $12. So all in all about $82 and it's been running strong for about 4 years now strictly used with Vag-Com. I recently put an SSD in there for when I need to use it on the fly and it's a lot quicker now for an old crappy netbook. What do you need help with? I have the manuals for draining and filling the CVT. I also started a write up but never got around to finishing it. It could probably help if you need it, let me know.

the only thing im curious about is the refill procedure. i know that i would need to fill and then let the car warm up to a certain temp, move the shifter thru the gears and check fluid again? a mechanic went thru it really quickly with me, but obviously didnt want to give me all the steps so i could just take it to him lol.

Thanks guys for the response. I will be starting the work on this tomorrow. I am sure I will have more questions after I start. I will keep everyone posted on the progress.

BTW I am planning on getting the TCM fixed from a listing on ebay. I think it is the first thing that pops up when you search for Audi TCM at about $239
http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-06-07-08-...4c9d56&vxp=mtr

Any one have knows if this is legit? reviews?

Thanks

thats the same company i went through. they have great communication so far, even emailed me some instructions to help remove the plug i was worried about. my TCM is enroute to them now (will probably arrive tomm). i will update with results. they state a 1-2 business day turn around.

[esamc2]

the only thing im curious about is the refill procedure. i know that i would need to fill and then let the car warm up to a certain temp, move the shifter thru the gears and check fluid again? a mechanic went thru it really quickly with me, but obviously didnt want to give me all the steps so i could just take it to him lol.




thats the same company i went through. they have great communication so far, even emailed me some instructions to help remove the plug i was worried about. my TCM is enroute to them now (will probably arrive tomm). i will update with results. they state a 1-2 business day turn around.

I went to the dealership to buy stuff for TCM replacement, and he quoted me 8 bottles of transmission fluid, bolts for the transmission cover, TCM gasket, Transmission cover gasket.

Is there anything else you guys changed? how about filter? Can we change the filter when its open? any other parts? If yes, please share the part numbers.

Thanks.

[customa4]

I believe the filter that is internal is around $400. The external filter, from what I remember reading, you can use air at a low pressure to blow it out.

[y0itzflip]

what he said. im not gonna bother with that internal filter way too much money. my cvt already has about 130k on it...im not gonna invest that much more into it. ill take that 400 and put it towards my manual swap for whenever this thing goes. also they say those are single use bolts, however i have read that people use them more than once and it isnt an issue. ill be reusing mine, just going to torque to spec.

[customa4]

Here's the write up that I made that I never fully completed. I haven't uploaded pictures but here's the text.

Things you'll need:
*Vag-Com- If you cannot monitor the transmission temperatures, do not attempt to change your fluid. It is critical to the operation of your transmission that the oil is at a certain temperature when the level is being checked. These transmissions are very sensitive and overfilling or under-filling can cause problems for you. Problems will be avoided if you follow instructions and monitor the temperature.

*Fluid Pump-You will need a fluid pump to put the fluid into the transmission. The fill plug and the drain plug are both on the bottom of the transmission so you will be pumping the fluid from the bottle up into the transmission. I paid about $12 from Advanced Auto Parts for a "Performance Tool Quart & Gallon Pump". It comes with some some hose that attaches to the pump to be able to go up into the transmission. It was perfect for the job.

*Multi-Point Bit-3357- This tool can be purchased from metalnerd.com and it's a little more than half the way down the page here. On there site it is labeled as Part MN2567 - Gear Box Drain Bit. It can be purchased for $25. Someone else might have a another idea for removing this plug like some vice grips but you will not be able to get the proper torque spec when re-installing if you choose this method.

*At least 5 liters of CVT fluid. NOT REGULAR ATF. Regular ATF and CVT fluid are different, you need to have CVT fluid. I picked up 6 liters to be safe but you will only need 5 liters if you follow the instructions. I paid roughly $13.50 a liter and my local dealer told me they had 12 liters in stock. So let's just say about rroughly $70 for 5 liters of OEM fluid.
Part # is G 052 180 A2

*Something to get the car level. Whether it be on a lift, jackstands, or ramps and jackstands. In my case what was available to me was a frame machine so that's what I used. Just try and make sure you get the car as level as possible for filling and checking fluid level.

*Oil pan to catch the fluid.


Step 1.)Get your car level.

Step 2.)Use your mult-point bit 3357 to remove the drain plug and get rid of the oil
Do not run the engine with the fluid drained from the system or tow the car.

Step 3.)Put the drain plug back in. The torque spec on this plug is 24 Nm.

Step 4.)Remove the fill/inspection plug to fill up with fluid.

Step 5.)Fill with 4.5 to 5 liters of CVT fluid. Put the fill/inspection plug back in before continuing. The torque spec is 30 Nm.
In my case it took about 4.5 to 4.75 before it would not take anymore fluid.

Step 6.)With the car in Park, start the car and let it idle.
ONLY 2005+ cars, rev the engine briefly to at least 2,500 RPMs to bleed the air out of the ATF pump.

Step 7.)Hold the brake pedal and shift through the gears PRNDS and leave in each gear for at least 2 seconds with the engine idling.

Step 8.)Put the car back in Park and let it idle.

Step 9.)Start up VCDS and go to [02-Auto Trans][Meas Blocks-08] Group 10 and hit Go! In the third box over you will see the Transmission Fluid Temp.

Step 10.)You want the temperature to be at 35* when checking the fluid. If the temp is too low, you will overfill and if the temp is to high you will under-fill.

Step 11.)When the temperature has reached 35* get under the car and remove the fill/inspection plug. When you remove the plug some of the fluid will spill out, under a quarter cup of fluid should come out. If the fluid continues to come out before reaching 40* then you're all done and you can put the plug back in. It is recommended that you replace this plug at this point. Again, the torque spec is 30 Nm.
Do no let the temp get up to 45* or too much fluid will get out when you remove the plug and you will not get a good reading on the level.

[deyrag]

Nice write up. Only suggestion i would make (and it applies to any drain and refill fluid project) is to loosen the fill plug before removing the drain. It sucks to have it all drained and then find you cannot refill because the fill plug is stripped or some other dumb luck.

[Airflite40]

I can't believe they produced a CVT FWD UltraSport.

[y0itzflip]

Here's the write up that I made that I never fully completed. I haven't uploaded pictures but here's the text.

Things you'll need:
*Vag-Com- If you cannot monitor the transmission temperatures, do not attempt to change your fluid. It is critical to the operation of your transmission that the oil is at a certain temperature when the level is being checked. These transmissions are very sensitive and overfilling or under-filling can cause problems for you. Problems will be avoided if you follow instructions and monitor the temperature.

*Fluid Pump-You will need a fluid pump to put the fluid into the transmission. The fill plug and the drain plug are both on the bottom of the transmission so you will be pumping the fluid from the bottle up into the transmission. I paid about $12 from Advanced Auto Parts for a "Performance Tool Quart & Gallon Pump". It comes with some some hose that attaches to the pump to be able to go up into the transmission. It was perfect for the job.

*Multi-Point Bit-3357- This tool can be purchased from metalnerd.com and it's a little more than half the way down the page here. On there site it is labeled as Part MN2567 - Gear Box Drain Bit. It can be purchased for $25. Someone else might have a another idea for removing this plug like some vice grips but you will not be able to get the proper torque spec when re-installing if you choose this method.

*At least 5 liters of CVT fluid. NOT REGULAR ATF. Regular ATF and CVT fluid are different, you need to have CVT fluid. I picked up 6 liters to be safe but you will only need 5 liters if you follow the instructions. I paid roughly $13.50 a liter and my local dealer told me they had 12 liters in stock. So let's just say about rroughly $70 for 5 liters of OEM fluid.
Part # is G 052 180 A2

*Something to get the car level. Whether it be on a lift, jackstands, or ramps and jackstands. In my case what was available to me was a frame machine so that's what I used. Just try and make sure you get the car as level as possible for filling and checking fluid level.

*Oil pan to catch the fluid.


Step 1.)Get your car level.

Step 2.)Use your mult-point bit 3357 to remove the drain plug and get rid of the oil
Do not run the engine with the fluid drained from the system or tow the car.

Step 3.)Put the drain plug back in. The torque spec on this plug is 24 Nm.

Step 4.)Remove the fill/inspection plug to fill up with fluid.

Step 5.)Fill with 4.5 to 5 liters of CVT fluid. Put the fill/inspection plug back in before continuing. The torque spec is 30 Nm.
In my case it took about 4.5 to 4.75 before it would not take anymore fluid.

Step 6.)With the car in Park, start the car and let it idle.
ONLY 2005+ cars, rev the engine briefly to at least 2,500 RPMs to bleed the air out of the ATF pump.

Step 7.)Hold the brake pedal and shift through the gears PRNDS and leave in each gear for at least 2 seconds with the engine idling.

Step 8.)Put the car back in Park and let it idle.

Step 9.)Start up VCDS and go to [02-Auto Trans][Meas Blocks-08] Group 10 and hit Go! In the third box over you will see the Transmission Fluid Temp.

Step 10.)You want the temperature to be at 35* when checking the fluid. If the temp is too low, you will overfill and if the temp is to high you will under-fill.

Step 11.)When the temperature has reached 35* get under the car and remove the fill/inspection plug. When you remove the plug some of the fluid will spill out, under a quarter cup of fluid should come out. If the fluid continues to come out before reaching 40* then you're all done and you can put the plug back in. It is recommended that you replace this plug at this point. Again, the torque spec is 30 Nm.
Do no let the temp get up to 45* or too much fluid will get out when you remove the plug and you will not get a good reading on the level.

perfect. just got shipping info for my TCM, should be here saturday and itll go in on saturday as well. i have everything here ready to go. found a laptop on craigslist for 75 bucks. so im good to go!

[customa4]

Nice write up. Only suggestion i would make (and it applies to any drain and refill fluid project) is to loosen the fill plug before removing the drain. It sucks to have it all drained and then find you cannot refill because the fill plug is stripped or some other dumb luck.

It's funny you mention that because it's a major step in the process. Before I posted this I checked if that was in the write up and it wasn't but still forgot to add it. Thanks for adding that, extremely important. Before you do anything make sure you can loosen the full plug.

[customa4]

perfect. just got shipping info for my TCM, should be here saturday and itll go in on saturday as well. i have everything here ready to go. found a laptop on craigslist for 75 bucks. so im good to go!

Awesome, good to hear. Good luck and if you have any issues feel free to PM me. I have it setup so I get an email when I'm PM'd so I should be able to respond.

[esamc2]

perfect. just got shipping info for my TCM, should be here saturday and itll go in on saturday as well. i have everything here ready to go. found a laptop on craigslist for 75 bucks. so im good to go!

Cool!.Let us know how it goes. I just got mine out today. Getting ready to ship. Any special considerations while shipping?

[y0itzflip]

Cool!.Let us know how it goes. I just got mine out today. Getting ready to ship. Any special considerations while shipping?

i just wrapped mine really good in bubble wrap and double boxed it. it came back saturday but with the storm and everything (im in miami) i didnt get passed bringing the part/tools outside lol.

but its clear now so its time to get to work.

FWIW, i shipped it out monday morning from miami to cali, and it came back saturday. pretty good service so far. the real test is to see that flashing light gone when i get everything together.

[customa4]

What codes were you guys getting that made you think there was a problem with the TCM?

[y0itzflip]

flashing PRND, car shifting from first to 5th/6th, works fine in tip mode. wouldnt go in reverse. the usual stuff. i cant find the code (had it written down) i think it was p0706 on my obdII scanner.


by the way, i have everything back together and now im attempting to fill the fluid but im not sure if its actually taking the fluid or all just spilling out. is there a special way to do it?

im using this

[customa4]

There's an edge there so you kinda wanna get the tube over the edge. I ended up spilling a decent amount as well. There's a sweet spot for where the hose can go and take majority of the fluid. I'll see if I can find a photo or video to help out.

[customa4]

This is the proper tool from Audi to use to fill the fluid. You can see that there's an arrow at the top basically showing that the fluid is going over a wall.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...Fcp1Pgodu2oIWg

It really helps to have a second person. One person holds the hose in place while the other one pumps the fluid.

[y0itzflip]

lol ahhh thanks. ill give it a shot. wasted a good amount of fluid so far -_-

since i dont know how much ive wasted and got in so far, is there a dipstick to i can check the current level? im assuming not

heres the pic in case anybody needed it.

[customa4]

No dipstick. Just keep filling, you'll be good. Thanks for embedding the photo, can't seem to be able to do it from my phone. The only way to know if the fluid level is correct is once you get the trans up to temp. I'm pretty sure I filled mine until it just wouldn't take any more fluid and then started it up. I don't believe it's possible to overfill it without the car being up to temp.

[y0itzflip]

no problem.

well i fianlly think i have it filed up (i think i found the sweet spot and went thru about 3 bottles and some change before it just started spewing out like crazy, doesnt include what i filled before i knew what i was doing though)

went to start the car...still getting flashing PRND -_-

didnt bother to start the car yet. checked code in vag-com and im getting 17090 Transmission range sensor (f125) implausible signal. im assuming this is a wiring issue?

couldnt clear the code because its a shareware version and my wifi didnt reach outside lol. so im back inside trying to figure this out before i try again.

[customa4]

Unhook the battery for 10 minutes to clear it. Click

[esamc2]

no problem.

well i fianlly think i have it filed up (i think i found the sweet spot and went thru about 3 bottles and some change before it just started spewing out like crazy, doesnt include what i filled before i knew what i was doing though)

went to start the car...still getting flashing PRND -_-

didnt bother to start the car yet. checked code in vag-com and im getting 17090 Transmission range sensor (f125) implausible signal. im assuming this is a wiring issue?

couldnt clear the code because its a shareware version and my wifi didnt reach outside lol. so im back inside trying to figure this out before i try again.

I would think the code is stored in your ECU memory. I would try to clear it and see if it comes back.. ? Not sure though.

[y0itzflip]

Unhook the battery for 10 minutes to clear it. Click

I would think the code is stored in your ECU memory. I would try to clear it and see if it comes back.. ? Not sure though.

thanks. ill unhook the battery while i register this version of vag com and report back

would my regular OBDII scanner be able to clear that code?

[customa4]

I would think the code is stored in your ECU memory. I would try to clear it and see if it comes back.. ? Not sure though.

This is what I'm thinking as well.

[y0itzflip]

thanks guys. i was able to clear the code with vag-com and no more blinking PRND (lol i was getting so mad/worried because i thought maybe i got scammed), went to start the car and "click" lol battery is dead.

so now im stuck while i wait for my girl to get home and give me a jump.

i really appreciate all the help guys. ive worked on a lot of cars in my life, but nothing has had me as scared to move without advice as this CVT tranny lol.

[esamc2]

thanks guys. i was able to clear the code with vag-com and no more blinking PRND (lol i was getting so mad/worried because i thought maybe i got scammed), went to start the car and "click" lol battery is dead.

so now im stuck while i wait for my girl to get home and give me a jump.

i really appreciate all the help guys. ive worked on a lot of cars in my life, but nothing has had me as scared to move without advice as this CVT tranny lol.

Any luck?

[y0itzflip]

Any luck?

it was too late by time she got home last night. woke up this morning and filled the fluid until it started spilling out again.

literally just walked back in from checking with vag-com when it was around 35, i opened the fill hole and fluid spilled out on me for a bit while it sat. i think im good?

either way i moved the car up and down the driveway and it has never responded as quickly as it has (ive had intermittent flashing PRND since a week after i bought the car)

im still not 100% confident in my fill even tho i followed everything here to the T, so i may just take it to an indy to get a proper drain/fill in a week or so.

is there anything i should look/hear/feel for if there is low fluid? i dont hear any grinding or abnormal noises, however i was just sitting in my driveway going back and forth.

[customa4]

As long as you followed the steps given for filling and made sure it was at the right temp you'll be fine. No need to take it to an Indy shop.

[esamc2]

it was too late by time she got home last night. woke up this morning and filled the fluid until it started spilling out again.

literally just walked back in from checking with vag-com when it was around 35, i opened the fill hole and fluid spilled out on me for a bit while it sat. i think im good?

either way i moved the car up and down the driveway and it has never responded as quickly as it has (ive had intermittent flashing PRND since a week after i bought the car)

im still not 100% confident in my fill even tho i followed everything here to the T, so i may just take it to an indy to get a proper drain/fill in a week or so.

is there anything i should look/hear/feel for if there is low fluid? i dont hear any grinding or abnormal noises, however i was just sitting in my driveway going back and forth.

If still in doubt, here's a nice write up for a flush..

http://www.audiworld.com/forums/a4-b...flush-2853167/

[y0itzflip]

just took the car for a semi spirited drive (aka divining normally vs driving as if I'm scared to break the car) and soon as the car warmed up, the transmission started slipping. I'm starting to doubt that I have enough fluid. I immediately stopped the car. not sure what to do now besides drain and refill (or take to Indy for them to do it)

would low fluid cause slipping? that's one thing I didn't have an issue with before I changed the tcm.