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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings
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    B6 vs B7 rear calipers question

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    Hi, I already have B7 from brakes, and I also wanted to buy a set of b7 rear calipers with carriers so i can powdercoat them and upgrade. My question is this, Is there really a big difference in size between the b7 and the b6 rear calipers? I a not concerned about the whether i get better braking or not, I just thought that b7 calipers were bigger, just like the difference between b6 and b7 front calipers. does anyone have pictures comparing both side by side? If they are similar in size Ill just take mine apart and paint them and be done with it, but if b7 are considerable bigger, I will go for the b7's. thanks

  2. #2
    Established Member Four Rings milan2k13's Avatar
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    Bigger calipers= bigger pads = better braking.
    More Power, More Problems! 1.8Tiny

    B6 ---> Motoza Stage 1+ | 550cc | 034 HFC | Forge TIP | Forge 007 DV | 2.0T FSI Coils | NGK BKR7E | K&N Drop-In | 93 Proof |

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings elewsader's Avatar
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    I can't say I've ever been able to compare the two calipers side-by-side in regards to relative size; I'd suspect the difference is marginal, but the rotors can be up to 1.7" larger depending on whether or not you have the 245mm or 255mm rear rotors currently. The added diameter allows the caliper to seat further from the center providing additional leverage, in-turn added braking power, which you will probably not be able to tell.
    Ed

    why say lot word when few word do trick.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings MikTip's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by asinclado View Post
    Hi, I already have B7 from brakes, and I also wanted to buy a set of b7 rear calipers with carriers so i can powdercoat them and upgrade. My question is this, Is there really a big difference in size between the b7 and the b6 rear calipers? I a not concerned about the whether i get better braking or not, I just thought that b7 calipers were bigger, just like the difference between b6 and b7 front calipers. does anyone have pictures comparing both side by side? If they are similar in size Ill just take mine apart and paint them and be done with it, but if b7 are considerable bigger, I will go for the b7's. thanks
    The B7 A4 caliper is slightly larger than the B6, but its the 43mm larger rotor, where the brake improvements come from. The B7 rear brake caliper has a
    Different carrier...so it cannot be used on a B6 without the B7 rotor.

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...=1#post8773815
    2015 S3 with 210,000 miles with new 2019 Q5 motor. Still going!

  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Ok, i think im gonna get the b7 calipers then, im ordering them today.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings ADCS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by milan2k13 View Post
    Bigger calipers= bigger pads = better braking.
    Bigger caliper = bigger rotor diameter = pad contact further from the center of rotation = better braking.

    The B7 A4 rear rotors are the same diameter as the B6 A4 front rotors (1.8t).

    You should do it to balance out your fronts.
    B6 2.7t BEL tuned by Bische
    B7 2.0t

  7. #7
    Established Member Four Rings milan2k13's Avatar
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    same shit.. same result, that's all that matters.

    But apparently OP isn't concerned about that, which blows my mind: '' I a not concerned about the whether i get better braking or not, ''
    More Power, More Problems! 1.8Tiny

    B6 ---> Motoza Stage 1+ | 550cc | 034 HFC | Forge TIP | Forge 007 DV | 2.0T FSI Coils | NGK BKR7E | K&N Drop-In | 93 Proof |

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings texasboy21's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by milan2k13 View Post
    same shit.. same result, that's all that matters.

    But apparently OP isn't concerned about that, which blows my mind: '' I a not concerned about the whether i get better braking or not, ''
    Upgrades brakes, and is not concerned about improved stopping power. LOL WUT?
    2019 SQ5 Prestige
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  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings MikTip's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by texasboy21 View Post
    Upgrades brakes, and is not concerned about improved stopping power. LOL WUT?
    "Big-brakes" are a status symbol...a macho sign of bad ass....pimp'n...etc...
    2015 S3 with 210,000 miles with new 2019 Q5 motor. Still going!

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings Jeff's Avatar
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    A bit O/T, but for those of you who have upgraded your rears--would you happen to be selling the rear setup (calipers, carriers, lines, rotors, and pads)?

    I am stocking out the B6. :(

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings Turbavanttro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by asinclado View Post
    I a not concerned about the whether i get better braking or not
    Quote Originally Posted by texasboy21 View Post
    Upgrades brakes, and is not concerned about improved stopping power. LOL WUT?
    Apparently not the concern.
    2021 GMC Sierra AT4 Diesel
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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings MikTip's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff View Post
    A bit O/T, but for those of you who have upgraded your rears--would you happen to be selling the rear setup (calipers, carriers, lines, rotors, and pads)?

    I am stocking out the B6. :(
    Pm sent
    2015 S3 with 210,000 miles with new 2019 Q5 motor. Still going!

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Semi-Necro bump.

    When putting B7 A4 Rear's on to a B6 A4, do you need to get the e-brake cables as well? or just the carrier/caliper/rotor/etc?
    '12 GLI EFR 7163 - '16 S3 IE Stage 2

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings evo_ski's Avatar
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    Both the ebrake and fluid lines are the same. They connect up no problem and there are no adjustments needed. All you need are the b7 rotor, carrier, and caliper, and obviously brake pads.
    Costco 92 Octane Gas - MANN Air Filter - 235/35/19 Tires w/ 36 PSI (cold) Tire Pressure - Grey Plastic Valve Stem Caps - 0° Front Toe - Rotella T6 5W-40 - 2 OEM B6 Keys - 18x8" Spare - Coin & Pen Filled Center Console - Rain-X on all 8 windows & Napa Cold Temp Washer Fluid - Bosch Wiper Blades (Valeo wipers suck big time!) - S4 Trunk Latch - Craftsman Tire Pump w/ Automatic PSI Shutoff - Belly Pan Delete (Weight Savings) - 3D Printed Rear Warning Triangle latch - 174,000 Miles & Counting

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by evo_ski View Post
    Both the ebrake and fluid lines are the same. They connect up no problem and there are no adjustments needed. All you need are the b7 rotor, carrier, and caliper, and obviously brake pads.
    Glorious! Thank you sir!
    '12 GLI EFR 7163 - '16 S3 IE Stage 2

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings A4orce84's Avatar
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    Shoot some before and after pics.
    USP CLUB MEMBER #101

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  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings ADCS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by evo_ski View Post
    Both the ebrake and fluid lines are the same. They connect up no problem and there are no adjustments needed. All you need are the b7 rotor, carrier, and caliper, and obviously brake pads.
    I had to do some minor adjustments to my ebrake cable after installing B7 A4 rear calipers. By minor I mean I only had to loosen the brackets holding the line near the fuel tank to get a half inch of slack. Takes 5 mins.

    And in addition to what Evo said you should also get the B7 A4 splash guards /dust shields. You can re-use the B6 ones but they won't adequately shield the rotors.
    B6 2.7t BEL tuned by Bische
    B7 2.0t

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings A4Maine-iac's Avatar
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    I'd just like to know how the crap you get the bottom carrier bolts out. Friggen things.
    2002 A4 1.8T - sold


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  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings seanf86's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by A4Maine-iac View Post
    I'd just like to know how the crap you get the bottom carrier bolts out. Friggen things.
    I think I removed the lower shock bolt on mine to make it a litle easier. Some ham fisted p/o of my car stripped out my pass rear carrier bolts, if you strip them your're probably going to have to grind the heads off and pull the carrier off and twist the left over bolt out with vise grips after you get the carrier out. My advise, hammer the allen socket into the bolt head and make sure its seated all the way.

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    I nearly stripped my bolts and I'mnot hamfisted at all. They are the devil. Never want to touch those rear carrier bolts ever again!
    -CP
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  21. #21
    Veteran Member Four Rings elewsader's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by seanf86 View Post
    I think I removed the lower shock bolt on mine to make it a litle easier. Some ham fisted p/o of my car stripped out my pass rear carrier bolts, if you strip them your're probably going to have to grind the heads off and pull the carrier off and twist the left over bolt out with vise grips after you get the carrier out. My advise, hammer the allen socket into the bolt head and make sure its seated all the way.
    Yeah, stripped mine like nobody's business, and turned a 1.5 hour job to a 4 hour job with copious amounts of MaPP gas and a PB Blaster marinated rear hub; I ended up replacing them with hex head bolts in the hopes of avoiding that situation in the future…
    Ed

    why say lot word when few word do trick.

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings seanf86's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charles.waite View Post
    I nearly stripped my bolts and I'mnot hamfisted at all. They are the devil. Never want to touch those rear carrier bolts ever again!
    p/o didnt hammer the socket in so he twisted the top of the bolt and now the socket won't seat all the way and wants to strip when I try turning it. My b5 I had to get the carrier red hot with a torch to get the long bolt out, why audi didnt use hex bolts like the front no one will ever know lol

  23. #23
    Established Member Two Rings senecak's Avatar
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    I have a socket Allen wrench specific for the rear of my car. I cut it down so it fits like it should. No removing shock bolts.

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