Rebuilding torque converter vs buying a new one?

[Chicks-Love-Aud]

I just recently got the torque converter code on my 200 audi s4, I'm looking at my options right now and I heard about 517 (they didn't pick up however, and I gave IPT a call, but they require me to ship my existing one and I don't think I can do that) what are some other options to replace the torque converter or would it be better to just send it to a shop to get my existing one rebuilt? I'm planning to go at least stage 2+ in the future maybe stage 3. The shop warrantees the torque converter for 1 year if I get it from him, but aftermarket ones will have no warranty. I'm leaning towards just getting it rebuilt, but I'm scared it would fail again

[ilyafil]

I know there's a stronger than stock TC out there. I'm not very familiar with autos. If you're going Stg3, it may be wise to convert to 01E instead of forking money out for a TC. Just a thought...

[airjawed]

I have a stage 3- auto... the typical issue from what I've seen and experienced is the seal fails on the TC. It doesn't really have to do with the actual TC failing catastrophically. I just got an OEM TC as suggested by my shop which also does quite a few Audis and works with a number of tuners. So, if you are staying at stage 2 I wouldn't say you need an upgraded torque converter. The other issue I have with upgraded TC's is the stall speed....if you don't have the tune adjusted for accordingly I could see that causing issues down the road as well.

[Scotty@Advanced]

what generally goes wrong in these converters is the rubber lip seal that directs fluid to the lockup clutch goes bad causing fluid to leak pas the seal and the clutch either fails to lock or has low pressure meaning it wears out quickly. Most "Rebuilt" converters are cut open, and the seal replaced then welded back together. The upgraded converters I offer have the seal upgraded, thrust bearings are upgraded to Torrington needle bearings, the clutch friction is upgraded to a more robust material with higher coefficient of friction and the turbine fins are furnace brazed. The enhanced stall converters feature a different impeller for higher stall speeds and our race converters have balloon plates installed to prevent the converter housing "Ballooning" or exploding and also features a billet hub.

All the converters I offer have a 3 year warranty and our enhanced stall converters have one free stall adjustment to tailor the converter to your build or driving habits.

AAM converter options

[TedStriker]

^^^^^

What Scotty said. If you're going to go the rebuild route, at least make sure that they're upgrading the internals like he described. Or buy one from 517 or whoever.

[techaman]

what generally goes wrong in these converters is the rubber lip seal that directs fluid to the lockup clutch goes bad causing fluid to leak pas the seal and the clutch either fails to lock or has low pressure meaning it wears out quickly. Most "Rebuilt" converters are cut open, and the seal replaced then welded back together. The upgraded converters I offer have the seal upgraded, thrust bearings are upgraded to Torrington needle bearings, the clutch friction is upgraded to a more robust material with higher coefficient of friction and the turbine fins are furnace brazed. The enhanced stall converters feature a different impeller for higher stall speeds and our race converters have balloon plates installed to prevent the converter housing "Ballooning" or exploding and also features a billet hub.

All the converters I offer have a 3 year warranty and our enhanced stall converters have one free stall adjustment to tailor the converter to your build or driving habits.

AAM converter options

hi my names paul just jade the p0741 code on my 00 a6 2.7t staying at stock maybe stage 1 whats the torque converter you talked about abd whats the price and site i can buy from my trans a 5hp19 emp its a 2.7t apb engine

[oppositelock]

http://advancedautomotion.com/shop/a..._description=1