What Went Wrong With Your B6 Today?..

[old guy]

The valve on the back of the engine is the PRV (Pressure Regulating Valve). It regulates air into and out of the block depending upon whether you are in a boost or vacuum condition. Europaparts description of the PRV is partially incorrect. A defective PRV will not cause a loss of boost. It does not check boost. It regulates the block pressure. The PCV can cause boost problems since it does check boost pressure.

The PCV valve is located underneath the intake manifold on the lower block breather line. I see that you have a 6-speed so I have to assume you have an '04 or later B6. The '04 and later models combined the PCV with a check valve that pulled additional air from the upper block breather. I suspect that you may have a defective PCV/check valve. If it isn't regulating the correct amount of air it can cause a high idle as well as a decrease in vacuum at idle. Clicky click®

The hissing you are hearing is because there is excessive vacuum being pulled through the block and the PRV is trying to regulate it down.

What happens when you try to remove your oil filler cap at idle? Is it being pulled down hard?

[mprivi]

I get a knock when the car is cold and I come to a stop. It goes away after the car is warm. Just noticed it as it's getting cold. Seems it could be the tranny. Is it a sign of it starting to go or a common cold issue? The car is auto 96k Quattro


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[trueno429]

Yes old guy, it is difficult to remove the oil cap there is definitely a strong vaccuum. I hear the PCV is bad if the cap is hard to take off. I am assuming i bought the wrong valve. You are correct 04 6-speed

[old guy]

Replace the valve that I linked and it should cure your problem.

[Willënskraft]

Was changing the brake pads for the first time, but got stuck on retracting the piston. Because, this damn tool doesn't it in .






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[old guy]

That's the wrong tool for the rear calipers. You need one that turns the piston at the same time that it compresses it.

[rocket1420]

That's the wrong tool for the rear calipers. You need one that turns the piston at the same time that it compresses it.

You need a kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0122Q83T4/

[Willënskraft]

You need a kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0122Q83T4/

Oh dang all the stores are closed and cost double that , but at least there's turkey and beers tonight.

EDIT: Found Autozone rents the tool kit will try tomorrow.

[trueno429]

Thank you Old guy i just ordered it and i hope it solves the problem. Will keep you updated and let you know what happens in a few days

[customa4]

Oh dang all the stores are closed and cost double that , but at least there's turkey and beers tonight.

EDIT: Found Autozone rents the tool kit will try tomorrow.

I bought the same tool from ECS thinking it was for the rear brakes as well. Haha! It does work great for the front brakes though. I always rent the tool from autozone for the rear.

[Spike00513]

Clicky

[Gosser]

Clicky

X2
I barely touch my car without em! Used to never wear them during my younger years though. I was too broke then

[Willënskraft]

I bought the same tool from ECS thinking it was for the rear brakes as well. Haha! It does work great for the front brakes though. I always rent the tool from autozone for the rear.

Yup went early in the morning

Clicky

Eh I like using bare hands

X2
I barely touch my car without em! Used to never wear them during my younger years though. I was too broke then

Totally understand, but still in my early twenties hehe



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[Willënskraft]

Huzzah success!!




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[imnuts]

I just bought a kit a few years ago from Harbor Freight for like $40. Figured that I'll get some use out of it over the coming years to make it worth it.

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[Willënskraft]

I just bought a kit a few years ago from Harbor Freight for like $40. Figured that I'll get some use out of it over the coming years to make it worth it.

I was going for that too since I had a 20% off coupon, but ended up with an Amazon one and going to use it for future rotors service.

[egovreau]

Huzzah success!!




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Holy crap! Is that sunlight I see? Looks like warm sunlight, too! :-)

Sent from the 7th Galaxy.

[littleNUKE393]

Well after remedying losing a brake caliper the other week. Being a typical Audi something else decided to break. Was picking up a guitar from the shop and as I was pulling out lost all of my coolant pretty much instantly. Quick enough that I didn't realize it was me smoking for a second. Guy next to me pointed out that I lost all my antifreeze. So upon pulling over and popping the hood I noticed the expansion cap wasn't snug, so I grabbed the half gallon of coolant I had and filled the expansion tank. and since I wasn't sure if the cap had caused the issue or the tank(the cap didn't seem to click into place when closed) I jerry rigged some zip ties to keep the cap from spinning. and made my way towards the nearest auto parts store. right before I pulled in my coolant light came on. I couldn't do too much digging around until the engine cooled a little bit but I was suspecting the tank to be the issue. I got lucky and the store actually had a expansion tank in stock with cap for a 1.8T. I believe it may have been for a VW as it didn't have the tabs that lock into place on the back. but it fit regardless. But upon replacing the tank in the parking lot one of the employees and I found what the issue actually was.
The heater core line that is under the intake manifold came off the hard line. I don't believe it was completely attached in the first place.
Everything was thankfully intact. had to scrape the hard line a bit to clean some corrosion off. to get the plastic end onto the hardline. Odd thing is neither I nor my mechanic have touched the heater core hoses that I am aware of. so my assumption is that it was mostly on there but not clipped from the previous owner(they did some weird stuff to the car) Regardless I got the hose to actually clip, filled the tank, purged the system of air and been great since.
I have a very love hate relationship with my car at moments. :P

[Willënskraft]

Holy crap! Is that sunlight I see? Looks like warm sunlight, too! :-)

Yes it is sunlight. It was nice enough weather to wear t shirts and shorts. Is it not over in WA?

[egovreau]

Yes it is sunlight. It was nice enough weather to wear t shirts and shorts. Is it not over in WA?

Cloudy and rainy... typical WA winter. You can have a sunny day that will start raining within two hours or less. :-/

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[MetalMan]

My B6 has been smelling like gasoline each time I fill up, for several dozen miles after filling up. Since buying the car 5 months ago I've only filled it up 4-5 times so it didn't feel like a huge deal... but obviously a gas leak is a big deal.

Finally got around to diagnosing the gas smell/leak. Got under the car and noticed that the driver-side "saddle" of the fuel tank appeared to have been collecting dirt/grime from being wet.
Looked under the fuel tank cover on the passenger side and was greeted with this:



It's hard to tell from the picture, but the well where the plug sits in (and the space to the left of the plug) are submerged in gasoline. Yay!

Cleaned up the gas and looked closer. What's this??!?



Little crack! After wiping up the tank lid I watched gas weep through the crack... problem found.

How do you fix it?
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ft/8e0201317n/
Yep, you have to buy the ENTIRE sender for the driver-side just to replace the tank lid. WTF??!?
Fortunately a local dealer had it in stock and price-matched ECS Tuning. I also bought the gasket, another $12.

The tank is still full enough that lifting the tank lid / sender allowed gas to escape the tank. Crazy.

[naconi]

My B6 has been smelling like gasoline each time I fill up, for several dozen miles after filling up. Since buying the car 5 months ago I've only filled it up 4-5 times so it didn't feel like a huge deal... but obviously a gas leak is a big deal.

Finally got around to diagnosing the gas smell/leak. Got under the car and noticed that the driver-side "saddle" of the fuel tank appeared to have been collecting dirt/grime from being wet.
Looked under the fuel tank cover on the passenger side and was greeted with this:

...

It's hard to tell from the picture, but the well where the plug sits in (and the space to the left of the plug) are submerged in gasoline. Yay!

Cleaned up the gas and looked closer. What's this??!?

...

Little crack! After wiping up the tank lid I watched gas weep through the crack... problem found.

How do you fix it?
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ft/8e0201317n/
Yep, you have to buy the ENTIRE sender for the driver-side just to replace the tank lid. WTF??!?
Fortunately a local dealer had it in stock and price-matched ECS Tuning. I also bought the gasket, another $12.

The tank is still full enough that lifting the tank lid / sender allowed gas to escape the tank. Crazy.

I had the same problem. I used gas tank repair kit from Autozone. It uses fiberglass sheet and epoxy, it's a little tough to get it in that corner but it fixed it.

Not sure but it was probably this one

http://www.autozone.com/sealants-glu...?checkfit=true

[Drocinit247]

It rained A LOT and my car lost throttle response and idled roughly. I waited overnight ( last night ) and it started up fine this morning. I assumed a water drain was plugged so i cleaned them today.

[rocket1420]

I'm going to try to be as brief yet detailed as possible.

About a month ago or longer (car hasn't started since), low coolant light came on. Then low oil pressure light came on. I limped it off the highway (no throttle response) and it stalled 100 feet from NAPA. Towed it home.

Next day, with everything cooled off, I attempted to start the car. No compression.

Visible damage: Top coupler of thermostat broke off. PCV hose from the top of the oil cooler to the "T" was broken completely off and laying on the block.

Repairs:
Got an AWM head from the junkyard. Had a valve job done to it, and I had it cleaned and surfaced. Yay.
New thermostat
034 PCV hose kit
New Suction Jet Pump (broke it into two pieces during head replacement)
New head gasket, head bolts, exhaust gasket, intake gasket, valve stem seals, cam seals
This hose had also broken off and was replaced
New valve cover gasket, CCT gasket, coolant flange

Kept the same timing belt. It has the new style tensioner. Marked the timing belt and sprockets, put back on in exactly the same orientation. Verified this with a dial indicator to find TDC and the mark on the valve cover lined up perfectly. Checked the cam chain at least ten times between me and Old Guy. FWIW, he has helped me most of the way and verified that the repairs I made, were done properly.

At first I didn't have fuel. I changed a bunch of things to fix this, and it turned out my rental gauge was bad. The following parts were changed: fuel pump (from pull-your-part), fuel filter/regulator, ignition switch, fuel pump relay.

I have verified fuel coming out of the injectors.
I have verified spark at the spark plugs. I pulled out the coil packs and spark plugs. Jammed the spark plugs into the coil packs. Grounded the ground strap. Watched the spark show on the valve cover.
Timing, as I have said, is spot on.
Compression. This one I'm not positive. It certainly sounds healthy when cranking, so I have reason to believe that compression is okay. I think my gauge is wonky, and I haven't gotten another one to test. Sometimes the gauge goes straight to 90 and stays there, sometimes the gauge goes 5 psi at a time and stops at 30. The pressure relief valve seems to relieve the same amount of air each time. But the engine itself sounds great while cranking.

Disconnected the MAF as a test, still no start.

So with all of the main components verified (basically) I threw a crank/engine speed sensor at it. I got one from the pull-your-part, cleaned the little bit of dirt off of it, and replaced it. The one that was in there was completely filthy.

Still no start.

Only code I have is:
16727 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40): Signal too High
P0343 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

I just pulled this code, so it's after every repair that I've done. I am pulling my hair out over this, and I think I've exhausted Old Guy's extensive knowledge, so I'm hoping someone, anyone, has some clue as to how I can get this dang thing to start again. It is my understanding, with the G40, that the engine has a 50/50 chance to start, because the ECU is forced to guess if the cams are one way, or 180 degrees out from that. So I will replace that, but not today. I'll have to go to the pull-your-part again to get one, or wait for one from eBay. This seems like a steal.

Forgot to mention, my oil pressure sender is broken, plastic part sheared right off. So I'm assuming that this is why I got the Oil Pressure light. Or at least hoping.
CEL does come on when cranking, so ECU should be fine.

[Gunnarrrrr]

This

[Razgriz227]

Is this supposed to be connected or held on by vac?




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[jpulll]

Is this supposed to be connected or held on by vac?




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connected, you need a new SJP. i have one that i can ship out to you. couple bucks plus shipping and it's yours. that or head to a dealer.

I should add that if you need to go anywhere, you can epoxy it until you get an intact SJP.

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[Razgriz227]

connected, you need a new SJP. i have one that i can ship out to you. couple bucks plus shipping and it's yours. that or head to a dealer.

I should add that if you need to go anywhere, you can epoxy it until you get an intact SJP.

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I will run to the dealer in the am and see how far they want me to bend over for some plastic, if its to much I'll shoot you a pm. Thanks for the offer!

[rocket1420]

I will run to the dealer in the am and see how far they want me to bend over for some plastic, if its to much I'll shoot you a pm. Thanks for the offer!

It's $47 from ECS. So probably $150 from the dealer. Part # 058133753D

[egovreau]

It's $47 from ECS. So probably $150 from the dealer. Part # 058133753D

And $10 on eBay. :-)

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[CyberPMG]

Got the heater core replaced yesterday. Was leaking coolant... fortunately not into the cabin. Now have oil leaks to deal with Shop is taking care of two tiny leaks next week (ordering parts). They hope that's all of them. The way the oil was running down, they're not sure yet if the rear main seal also needs replaced (have 100k miles on the engine). After fixing the other two tiny leaks, will clean it up to see if the seal is bad. Car is now reaching 339k miles.

[MCT9891]

I will run to the dealer in the am and see how far they want me to bend over for some plastic, if its to much I'll shoot you a pm. Thanks for the offer!

While you're out why not rent a compression tester from Autozone so you can really take compression off the list. Best part is, it's free and you get peace of mind.

[rocket1420]

While you're out why not rent a compression tester from Autozone so you can really take compression off the list. Best part is, it's free and you get peace of mind.

Was that meant to be directed toward me? After the fuel pressure gauge didn't work, I'm leery of any testing equipment from there. I'm going to see if a neighbor has one and if he has any ideas if compression is good. But if compression is bad, I don't know where to look. Block was dead nuts straight when I pulled the head. Head was straight when it came back from the shop (I checked). Brand new head gasket and head bolts, which were properly torqued. So it'd be leaking out of the valves maybe? They were supposed to put in all new valve stem seals, which I provided.

[ozMatt]

.....Forgot to mention, my oil pressure sender is broken, plastic part sheared right off. So I'm assuming that this is why I got the Oil Pressure light. Or at least hoping.
CEL does come on when cranking, so ECU should be fine.

Make sure when your cranking the engine that oil isn't pissing out from that broken sensor. Even if it isn't leaking now, because it's broken it could completely crap itself when pressurised.

[rocket1420]

Make sure when your cranking the engine that oil isn't pissing out from that broken sensor. Even if it isn't leaking now, because it's broken it could completely crap itself when pressurised.

I don't think it is, but thanks for the heads up. I'll make sure to change it as soon as it gets here Saturday.

[MCT9891]

Was that meant to be directed toward me? After the fuel pressure gauge didn't work, I'm leery of any testing equipment from there. I'm going to see if a neighbor has one and if he has any ideas if compression is good. But if compression is bad, I don't know where to look. Block was dead nuts straight when I pulled the head. Head was straight when it came back from the shop (I checked). Brand new head gasket and head bolts, which were properly torqued. So it'd be leaking out of the valves maybe? They were supposed to put in all new valve stem seals, which I provided.

Oops! Yeah that was for you, @razgriz227 you can disregard.

I only said it because I just did a compression test with their equipment, was fine for me.

[rocket1420]

Oops! Yeah that was for you, @razgriz227 you can disregard.

I only said it because I just did a compression test with their equipment, was fine for me.

Um, well, I figured it out. I haven't had a chance to fix it yet, but I forgot to put those round pieces of metal back in that go on top of the valves. FWIW, I did a leak-down test today and there was no leaks. At least that test was easy without those pieces in there.

[Spike00513]

Installed some cob leds into the boot panel. Best mod I've done all year, great for the dark and cost £3!




Got mine here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201595615186 soldered them into the rear boot light and job done.

Did it last year.. great mod for these dark days and nights..
nice looking leds

[Rubba]

Got home and the coolant light came on, turned out to be a broken coolant reservoir cap

[Haoz]

Well done 👍
Searching for something at dark turn me crazy 😡