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  1. #1
    Senior Member Two Rings CharlesP2009's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 22 2012
    AZ Member #
    100912
    My Garage
    2009 Audi A4, 2009 BMW 335i Convertible
    Location
    The Copper State

    Lightbulb Read here for a possible solution to the P0171 and P0507 CELs

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    So I've been contending with a frequent P0171 "System Too Lean" check engine light and an occasional P0507 "Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected". My attempts to rectify included cleaning and later replacing the MAF sensor. Unfortunately both issues kept occurring and the car felt sluggish. Took the car in to Audi and they say the problem was simply a worn out rubber gasket on the oil dipstick tube. They replaced it for $35 out-the-door and amazingly the car seems to be fixed. It feels so much smoother and the CELs haven't come back [yet]. I hope the fix is permanent!

    So...if you're experiencing the P0171 code and the P0507...it might simply be that rubber gasket!

  2. #2
    Senior Member Three Rings Khaotic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 21 2011
    AZ Member #
    71269
    My Garage
    2001 Audi A4 Avant 1.8T Quattro
    Location
    Sweden

    Been chasing a recurring P0171 on my friends MKV GTI, worth a look!
    2007 Audi A4 Avant 2.0 TQ 6MT S-Line
    Exterior: Bi-Xenon Retrofit | 30% Tint | KW V2 Inox | 19" VMR 701
    Interior: LED Lighting | Black Headliner | RS4 Shiftknob | oCarbon Trim | TTS Steering Wheel | Audio build
    Engine: REVO Stage 2+ | STaSIS Exhaust | R.A.I HFC | Custom CAI | AWE FMIC | HPFP Stage 1 | RAI Catch Can | JHM Flywheel & Clutch | USP Metal Slave & Clutch Line | JHM SS Trio

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 29 2013
    AZ Member #
    122052
    My Garage
    '06 A4 2.0T 6MT, '11 Q5 2.0t, 99 A6 Quattro Avant, 95 F-150, 73 Opel GT
    Location
    MA

    Totally thread jacking here, not really, but rather than create a new and unnecessary thread, why not concentrate all of the idle/lean discussion in one thread. Maybe if we can roll-up all of the p0171 and p0507 commentary in one thread, we could clean it up for a diy... maybe

    After countless searches, dozens of VCDS and Torque logs, several parts changed and changed back, clearing codes, adaptations, and even clamping or blocking various ins and outs, I still don't have a frigging clue what the problem is, and I am seriously pissed off at this point. Normally, I would have engaged the local dealer to explore candidacy for the various campaigns but ownership has changed and our experience while buying my wife's Q5 was less than fuzzy. But I digress...

    So far, I have seen many suggestions regarding possible repairs, including but not limited to -

    - PCV breather system,
    -- aka crankcase breather
    -- aka pressure control valve
    -- two different versions, split is in 2006 model year.
    -- associated parts include
    ---- valve cover breather (on back-right side of valve cover, four t-25 screws)
    ---- breather tube - breather to intake
    ---- breather tube - breather to crankcase
    ---- breather tube - valve cover to turbo inlet (metal with metal gasket)
    - Leaking gaskets
    -- Valve cover gasket
    -- Intake manifold
    -- Throttle body
    - Vapor Canister Check Valve
    - Intake flaps/flap motor
    - Intake piping, split, cracked, pinholes, clamps
    - Diverter valve (updated revision)
    - evap valve
    - Valve Cover (silver vs black?)
    from wiki.ross-tech.com,

    16891/P0507/001287 - Idle Control System RPM: Higher than Expected.

    Possible Symptoms
    Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) active
    Possible Causes
    Throttle Valve Control Module (J338) dirty/faulty
    Wiring/Connector(s) from/to Throttle Valve Control Module (J338)
    Vacuum Leak
    Possible Solutions
    Check Throttle Valve Control Module (J338)
    Check Wiring/Connector(s) from/to Throttle Valve Control Module (J338)
    Check Intake System for Leaks
    Special Notes
    When found in the NAR 2.0T (BPY) check RVUTB: 01-09-03 or 2018919 for updated Crankcase Breather Valve
    If the breather valve is faulty, full engine vacuum is typically found when removing the oil cap at idle.

    16555/P0171/000369 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1: System Too Lean

    Possible Causes
    Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70) defective
    Intake System Leak(s)
    Possible Solutions
    Check Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
    Check Fuel Pressure Regulation
    Check Fuel Pump
    Check Injectors
    Check Intake System for Leaks
    Check Exhaust System for Leaks
    Check Secondary Air System for Leaks
    Check Vacuum Pipes for Leaks

    Special Notes Fuel Trim Info

    http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Fuel_Trim_Info
    Last edited by MadhatterPDC; 03-29-2014 at 01:08 PM. Reason: made some additions/corrections

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 23 2011
    AZ Member #
    85651
    Location
    USA

    I also get the p0171 code randomly about once a month. It's happened while idling and while cruising. I've always just reset it and kept my fingers crossed that it wouldn't happen during my yearly inspection.

    I'll try replacing that rubber piece and see if it works.

  5. #5
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 29 2013
    AZ Member #
    122052
    My Garage
    '06 A4 2.0T 6MT, '11 Q5 2.0t, 99 A6 Quattro Avant, 95 F-150, 73 Opel GT
    Location
    MA

    Now for my own details and some notes on my experience so far. My car is a 2006 A4 Quattro Sedan, 2.0T, 6 Speed Manual, 71,000 miles. Purchased used 18 months ago with 50,000 miles. My daily commute for the last four months has been 150 miles round-trip per day. I was getting 28-29 mpg at 75-80 mph, but when mileage dropped to 26-27 at 70-75 mph, I knew there was a problem. Also during this time, engine temp was hovering low, and would drop significantly on downshift. With NO CODES. Some general internet searching brought me to Audizine and a discussion of B7 frequent problems. After reading through those discussions, I ordered new cam follower, revised diverter valve, PCV valve and hoses, thermostat and fuel filter, snub mount, N80 Evap Purge Valve and spark plugs. Since the problem wasn't so severe, I installed each part individually to measure the difference and hopefully capture the exact root cause.

    1) PCV/crankcase breather - Ordered "Emissions Service Kit, for VIN from 165001", which includes breather valve, gaskets, metal breather tube, and replacement screws. I also ordered the plastic tube from the breather valve to the intake manifold. I also did an oil change at this time. The car ran better at first, but the next day developed a surge at idle. I tried to pull the codes but only got soft codes p0171 and p0507. I cleared them and the car ran great. Probably should have left it alone at this point, but MPG was still low, temps were still low, and more service work is due, so...

    2) Cam Follower - bought an OEM cam follower from the dealer, The old cam follower looked normal for the age, installed new part anyways. Car was much, MUCH quieter for about one minute, then the "normal" 2.0T ticking that I have always had returned. I had also been watching my High Pressure Fuel Pressures and I seemed to gain about 100 psi across the board. Also watching the Long Term Fuel Trim, and noticed that it was right around 7%. NO CODES

    3) Diverter Valve - ordered the latest piston type diverter valve from ECS. Also coincided with an oil change. The old diverter valve looked fine, installed new part anyways. I disassembled the old diaphragm valve to see if I could confirm an issue, and only noticed that it didn't slide smoothly or seem to hold pressure, even though there were no tears. The next day, boost seemed stronger again, but other issues remained. And soft codes p0171 and p0507 returned. Cleared and ran as well as baseline.

    4) N80 Evap Purge Valve - don't remember where I ordered it from, install should have been very easy, but it has those damn cinch clamps and the hoses are just barely big enough to fit over the barbs. No change in how the car ran. None. At all. But, NO CODES.

    5) Thermostat - I think I ordered this from Europaparts.com, again install should have been easy, but I tried to take shortcuts and it took forever (three hours?). The moral to that story is to completely remove the alternator, also remove the intercooler to throttle body intake tube, don't drop any important nuts or tools. Once complete the engine warmed up much faster, and gauge stays perfectly centered (torque pro shows coolant temp ~195, consistent. Previous was 160 to 170). No other changes or improvements. NO CODES

    7) Snub Mount - Ordered from ECS, installed at the same time as Thermostat, super-easy, especially after driving myself nuts with the thermostat. The difference in the way the whole car feels is extremely difficult to articulate, it is really subtle... but really significant? Does that make sense? It really does make the whole car feel more connected and direct.

    6) Air Filter - Fram filter from Amazon... I know, I know. It was cheap, and I would like to reconfigure the intake soon, but I wanted to stay OEM until I get this all sorted. I also cleaned the snow filter... completely full of sand and road salt. Then... WHOA! I noticed that the MAF to turbo inlet tube wasn't clamped on either end. So I re-installed the clamps, confident that must've been it, and wow, the car ran FANTASTIC, for one day. Now I finally kicked hard codes and CEL on the same p0171 and p0507. Thinking that all this new air was freaking out the learned calibrations, So I cleared the codes and watched the LTFT climb back to the baseline of 7% over the course of several days. I then went through and performed Throttle Body Adap, fuel pump trim, and Idle Air Adap. Everything changed in all the ways you would expect after resetting everything... then about two days later, hard codes p0171 and p0507.


    I have in hand the Fuel Filter and Spark Plugs, but I have not installed yet as fuel PSI is perfect, misfire count is 0, and I really believe this is a vacuum related issue. Today I disconnected and corked the PCV inlet on the intake manifold, no change in idle RPM's or AFR (high and lean), but confusingly ignition advance went from -3 deg steady to swinging from +3 to +9 deg.

    With the intake inlet corked, I pinched the throttle body inlet tube as closed as much as I could with my hands, and there was no change. None.

    That's where I am so far. Where else could the Intake being drawing air in from, if the PCV inlet and the trottle body itself are blocked?

  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 29 2013
    AZ Member #
    122052
    My Garage
    '06 A4 2.0T 6MT, '11 Q5 2.0t, 99 A6 Quattro Avant, 95 F-150, 73 Opel GT
    Location
    MA

    Ok, in case anybody is reading this, I changed the Spark Plugs, Fuel Filter, and oil change this weekend. The car runs fantastic from cold to warm, then as it gets to full hot, the idle RPM starts to climb, and fuel trim starts to climb (running lean). Then today, the pending codes reappeared, same P0171 and P0507.

    I'm still leaning towards a vacuum leak and I haven't completely eliminated the PCV system, including the valve cover. I've been reading up on the Valve Cover Picture and PCV Explained threads, and I am starting to think that the intake is drawing vacuum from the opposite side of the valve cover (turbo inlet), instead of up from the crankcase. As I type this out, I am becoming more convinced that the valve cover itself is the issue.

    I am going to sleep on this, study the PCV and Valve Cover systems even more, and probably order up a new valve cover tomorrow.

  7. #7
    Active Member One Ring NYCoz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 09 2015
    AZ Member #
    364206
    Location
    Oceanside CA

    Did the new valve cover solve the problem?

  8. #8
    Junior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Nov 02 2018
    AZ Member #
    430264
    Location
    greenwich

    Having same codes and conditions. P0507, P0171

    2007 Audi Quattro 2.0, MAF, Thermostat, PCV valve, fuel filter, Cam follower. One not of mention, when I turn the front defroster the idle will settle down to around 750-800 rpm’s then slowly works it’s way back to 1400 then down to 1000, then back then down again for ever. When in Park, the idle hardly goes above 1500. In neutral, it goes up to around 5000 rpm’s. Rough idle in Park but driving in D it idles around 8-900 rpm’s. Very hard to start the other night and lots of smoke from exhaust. Sometimes I will pull the MAF connector and let the default mixture take over.

  9. #9
    Junior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Nov 02 2018
    AZ Member #
    430264
    Location
    greenwich

    Read here for a possible solution to the P0171 and P0507 CELs

    Quote Originally Posted by CharlesP2009 View Post
    So I've been contending with a frequent P0171 "System Too Lean" check engine light and an occasional P0507 "Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than Expected". My attempts to rectify included cleaning and later replacing the MAF sensor. Unfortunately both issues kept occurring and the car felt sluggish. Took the car in to Audi and they say the problem was simply a worn out rubber gasket on the oil dipstick tube. They replaced it for $35 out-the-door and amazingly the car seems to be fixed. It feels so much smoother and the CELs haven't come back [yet]. I hope the fix is permanent!

    So...if you're experiencing the P0171 code and the P0507...it might simply be that rubber gasket!
    Yes both codes keep coming back. 2007 Audi A4 Quattro. automatic. 156700 miles.
    I have sealed the dip stick opening to no avail.
    P0171, P0507.
    Idles high but tachometer stays around 800-1000.
    Scanner states idle is around 2000 - 3500 RPMs.
    Idle can get up to 5000 RPMs when auto
    automatic tranny is in neutral. Calms down when in park but fluctuates between 1500 and 800 RPMs.
    Morning start up seemingly normal. Heats up cat converters then back down to 730-760 RPMs.

    After warming up and during the day, the idle and start up is unpredictable.
    Replaced N80, gas cap 0 ring, PCV valve, MAF sensor. Pulled the plugs and coil packs. No oil found on either.
    Sprayed for leaks and listened for air hiss.
    Wiggled connections on sensors and elsewhere.
    Transmission can shift hard at times.
    Pulled the MAF connection the last couple of days and now running on default specs.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

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