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  1. #1
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    Question 2002 B6 Avant 3.0, wiper problem, code 01753 short to earth? <--------

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    Hello all,

    Well it seems there is a gremlin living in this car, every weekend since getting the car last August it seems I have a project going on, here's the latest....
    2002 A4 Avant 3.0

    I am hoping to get some insight into this problem. I had gone through a car wash and after leaving I hit the wipers to clear the window, the wipers would not stop.
    it didn't matter what setting the lever was on, they seemed stuck on low constant speed.
    stopped and started the car and still wiping, half way home they stopped and parked, once I got home I tried them out again and all worked fine, all lever settings good, a couple weeks go by and during some rainy driving the wipers slowed down and stopped half way through a cycle.

    Scanned with a max-scan vag scan tool.
    got codes,

    01753 window wiper motor (v) stage 1, static short circuit to earth.

    01754 window wiper motor (v) stage 2, static short circuit to earth.

    I ordered a new motor and replaced the part ( durring installation I noticed that my plastic window shroud was not clipped into the moulding at the bottom of windshield, perhaps some excess water got in here and caused some problems? , taking off the ecu cover everything is sealed and dry), but wipers still not working and getting one code,

    01753 window wiper motor (v) stage 1, static short circuit to earth.

    Is it that by bad luck the new motor came DOA or is there something I'm missing?

    Does anybody have knowledge of the wire harness to the wiper motor to check for proper power to motor?

    Thanks for any help you can provide.
    Last edited by JieMan; 04-24-2013 at 08:11 AM.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings SlickFix's Avatar
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    Wow, that sucks. The rear wiper for Wifey's Avant does that too every once in a while. I wonder if the stalk might be the real culprit...
    His: 2012 Moonlight Blue Metallic S5 Prestige
    Hers: 2014 Lava Gray Metallic Q5 2.0T
    Son's: 2005.5 Imola Yellow B7 S4 4.2 Sedan
    19" B8 S5 Peelers

  3. #3
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    The rear wiper works fine, also the 30A fuse is good and swapped as well, the front wipers should be getting power through the fuse as the rears are working from the switch and they are on the same system.

    I should also add that the linkage transmission is fine, moves freely and is not corroded, seems to be the updated version with the plastic caps sealing the wiper stud race. They never seized up.

    I'm no electrician so I need a little help on what the wire coding is on the wiper motor harness. color codes -ground,12vpower,etc.. , what voltage I should read on what wires, with a voltmeter, wiper switch positions, to what wire.

    Also should I just tap into the ground wire on the harness and or the wiper motor mounting bolt and reground it to the frame?

  4. #4
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    Well after reviewing some wire diagram from a Bentley manual I came across online for a 2002 a4 the four wires on the harness are as follows on the wiper motor (V), I'm learning as I go with these diagrams so bear with me, I will post any relevant info as I troubleshoot.

    Green with purple stripe<gn/li to J519, connector-T32b/11, 32-Pin Connector, grey,> *
    Green with yellow stripe<gn/ge to J519, connector-T10b/3, 10-Pin Connector, black> *
    Black with white stripe<sw/ws to J519, connector-T10b/4, 10-Pin Connector, black>*
    Brown solid (static)<br Ground connection-136, goes out to ground at connection-135, Ground connection -2-, in instrument panel wiring harness.>

    J519-Vehicle Electrical System Control Module
    -T32b, 32-Pin Connector, grey
    -T10b, 10-Pin Connector, black

    J527-Steering Column Electronic Systems Control Module.
    -T16a 16-Pin Connector, black, on steering Column, Electronic Systems Control Module

    All 4 wires from the motor harness break at connector-T10c 10-Pin Connector, violet, connector station A-pillar, left
    gn/li T10c/2
    gn/ge T10c/4
    sw/ws T10c/8
    br T10c/1

    The wiper lever switch (E22) is connected to the J527 module.
    The J519 module is linked to the J527 module through connector T32b/13, T32b/12 on J519 and connector T16a/8, T16a/9 on J527


    The short to earth has me hoping its as simple as re-grounding the br wire to the chassis, or it could be that the ground terminates from the motor housing itself and it is just a matter of cleaning the mounting hardware on the wiper linkage transmission, doubtful as its a solid brown (static) ground wire off the motor harness indicating that the motor grounds to the wire itself. It looks as though gn/li (which eventually links to the wiper lever switch) and br link up at some setting inside the motor, perhaps it is just a bad motor after all, with a short off the lower brush.

    Stage 1 and 2 fault codes leads me to think it's a fault off of two wires in the harness caused by a bad ground connection ( in motor or out).

    Taking the cap off the old motor showed that the brushes (3 -two side and one lower) were in tact worn but not broken, also was able to manually rotate motor freely, grease was good as well.




    Next steps, checking for some kind of voltage from the harness wires, not sure what to expect here as the wire's work together through the mechanism inside the motor with different settings, and also checking for continuity with wires at connectors.
    Last edited by JieMan; 04-22-2013 at 08:15 PM.

  5. #5
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    I tested voltage in the harness this morning,

    I am getting a constant 11.75v from the gr/li wire at all times.

    No other wire's show any voltage no matter what position the lever switch is in.

    I also checked continuity of the br ground wire at several points on the chassis in the engine bay and it tested good at all points, so the ground has a good connection in the harness.

    I'm leaning towards a DOA motor, anybody know how to test the motor itself for operation?

    It would be a big help if someone was able to test the power on their wiper motor harness and see what you get for voltage on different wires and different switch positions, like I said I was only getting a constant 11.75 from gn/li, long shot but I may not be sending the right signals to the motor.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings imnuts's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JieMan View Post
    I'm leaning towards a DOA motor, anybody know how to test the motor itself for operation?
    Only test I would know of is finding the +/- wires on the motor and hooking them up to a power source directly. I'm guessing the motor uses 12V, so you could hook it up right to the battery to see if it works.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings rollerton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JieMan View Post
    I tested voltage in the harness this morning,

    I am getting a constant 11.75v from the gr/li wire at all times.

    No other wire's show any voltage no matter what position the lever switch is in.
    .
    If it's like most other wiper motors out there then the 12V gr/li wire is probably for the parking circuit. The motor should be deisgned so that the park circuit is active and has a 'break' or open in the circuit at a certain point when no voltage is applied to the other settings. Some motors have 'steps' in them to determine which speed they're on and some work through an external large resistor.
    Most Audi's have the rain sensor also, built into the rear view mirror mount.
    Typically grn/ylw and grn/violet are stages in the wiper motor.
    I can almost guarantee if you apply 12v to each those wires (not at the same time) the wiper motor will kick on. I'd use a wire with a 2.5 amp or 5amp fuse built in. Just in case. Make sure the motor is grounded. It can ground through the housing, but their made to ground through the harness.
    I'm betting it's the stalk since you have NO voltage through the harness other than the park circuit.
    foley803 : What does an electrical surge sound like? Barking dogs? Watermelons?

  8. #8
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    Found this today when I took the bottom molding off to check out the wires to the wiper motor. It's in the driver foot area,
    It was a 60A blue fuse totally destroyed and corroded right out.
    What does this fuse do?

    Any ideas on part # for a new fuse socket?
    Last edited by JieMan; 04-25-2013 at 12:49 PM.

  9. #9
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    Well that fuse goes to the cooling fan, I cleaned out the housing and inserted a new fuse and all is well with the fan, funny it has been working fine until I pulled that corroded fuse out, somehow it got a connection, lol.

    I put in another motor and it did not work, I tested all three motors off the battery, old and two new, they all work with power.

    I checked continuity of the wires in the wiper motor harness end and the ends plugging into the J519 controller and its fine.

    I am ordering a wiper switch as that is the cheapest next step, problem is narrowed down to three things at this point since wires are fine,
    1. Wiper switch lever.
    2. Control module on steering column J527.
    3. Control module J519.

    I ordered a cable off Amazon to use with VCDS lite, at least I can use the shareware to see if I can connect to the modules or not, I hope its the switch and not one of the modules.
    Last edited by JieMan; 04-27-2013 at 08:09 PM.

  10. #10
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    Well another update, it is the J519 control module, I used VCDS lite and checked the measuring points in central electric, the software is aware when the wiper lever switch is activated on stage 1 and stage 2, rear, and washers front and back, so the switch is good, I was getting intermittent no communication with J519 module with a fault code. I removed the J519 and found a blown chip on it, I am assuming it is the problem, I am now searching for the chip so I can replace it on the board, though it may be difficult as the top is burned and I might not be able to get the # off it. I'll post a few pics later tonight, I also found where the water got in, under the ecu plastic housing there was a foam seal that was improperly installed, not the cover but under the housing itself where the wires go into the car.

  11. #11
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    ECU box empty

    Under the box, the foam seal was sitting in the hole.


    A pic of the J519 module with the burnt transistor, I can't make a number off of it so I need to educate myself on them to see what I can throw in there. If anybody has a J519 board sitting around and can pick a number off of that transistor it would be great, I am without wipers with the family car and need to get this fixed soon, I can't justify spending $500 for another unit when the transistor is $5.




  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings imnuts's Avatar
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    My suggestion would be to find a used module, like from a part out, and install it. Good luck with getting the chip removed and finding the proper replacement though.

  13. #13
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    It's no problem changing the transistor out, my problem is that I know nothing about them and am having a hard time finding the appropriate one.

    This is what I can make off of it, it's either 45N05 or 45N06

  14. #14
    Senior Member Two Rings thaifoodninja's Avatar
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    have you tried looking on digikey? http://www.digikey.com/product-searc...376381?k=45n06
    2013 S4 DSG
    IG: @isaacdoescarstuff

  15. #15
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    Found what I needed,
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=261038443485
    Now I just need to wait a couple weeks for delivery from China

    I will report back with results.

    I actually needed part# RF1S45N06SM made by Fairchild Semiconductor, which is only 40 miles from where I live, but it is not in production anymore and they don't source directly to public, so I had to order a different one, my choices were IRFZ44ES by IRF or 2SK2266 by Toshiba, I couldn't find the Toshiba in the right package that was in stock anywhere, so I got the IRF one, needs to be in To-263 package which makes the part # IRFZ44ES TO-263 if anybody needs to know.

    Edit- I didn't look on digikey, it seems that any of those are an equivalent, it would be $10 shipping for a single $2 transistor though.
    Last edited by JieMan; 05-07-2013 at 12:01 PM.

  16. #16
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    Well wrong number, the one I need it 45N05-20L the one I ordered is a larger package and won't fit.

  17. #17
    Senior Member Three Rings diuvic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JieMan View Post
    Well wrong number, the one I need it 45N05-20L the one I ordered is a larger package and won't fit.
    Did you ever fix this JieMan? I'm running through the same issues with my 2002 A4 B6 3.0. Unfortunately, the wipers stopped working. They will no longer spray fluid and won't wipe. Although, the buttons to change the settings on the display still work. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks!

  18. #18
    Active Member One Ring trappedout's Avatar
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    ^^^^^^^ NUDGE^^^^^^^
    I am having the same issue on my 2004 a4 b6 and would also like to verify the J519 repair fixed it.. Good news, I have a spare j519 I am going to swap into my audi this weekend and will post back for those struggling with this damn water damage issues.. And yes, before concluding the J519 was a fault, the wiper motor was bench tested. The wiper stalk tested, wiper linkages cleaned and physically verified for movement. The CEC ( located under driver's seat) pulled apart and tested. After playing with the wires at the J519 I was able to restore intermittent wiper motion but that lasted 3 full wipes before lost signal again. ( connectors were all checked for rust, breakage, and all grounds located behind a-pillor, under ecu, under dash, and engine bay verified.

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