
Originally Posted by
rotorhead24
I have heard before that the rods are interchangeable from the 2.7 to the 4.2 and maybe even the 1.8? can someone elaborate or confirm this? This is not a budget build so please dont think i will be cutting any corners to save a few bucks. I have learned the good value of doing things right the first time and not letting my toys own my life.
I have considered having JHM build a full long block, but where is the fun in that ?

the timing belt 40v 4.2 had similar rods as the 2.7t, the bhf has a much different rod
the fun would be making the power, let someone else deal with all the bullshit around building the motor

Originally Posted by
rotorhead24
This is the exact response i was looking for. I rember reading years ago that some generation of the 4.2's had cylinder distortion problems the lead to seized pistons on even stock cars....
that'd be the bhf primarily

Originally Posted by
rave
What about..... C6 S6 V10 swapped into the S4, then, to further impress......
twin turbo.
big cahones status.
LOL

Originally Posted by
rotorhead24
What I have collected from this awesome thread:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...and-discussion
Gen1 4.2 (c4, b4 and older?): Sleeved
Gen2 4.2 (c5 RS6) : more Aluminum with some special metallic coating engineered and imported from the space station that needs reapplied after boring/honing
Gen3a 4.2 (current s4): even more aluminum content, Thin, weak cylinders, sketchy waters and definite headache and castration in the future
Gen3b 4.2 (b7 rs4): Badass and refined that comes with forged internals
SOOO... I need to either start with a Gen1 or Gen3b rs4 block? All other vesrions seem weak in cylinder thickness and keeping the head seated. Cost between those seems it would be night and day. If other are charging 30k for a built longblock, i would say there is some room for savings lol.
I have not ruled out going thru JHM for the build but I guess that is the main purpose of this thread. Since this will be my hobby car, I would like to say I did all or most of the assembly.
I'd say you have the following for v8s
-32v motors, 3.6, 3.7 & 4.2... head is similar to an old VW 1.8
-early 40v motors, dbc
-later 4.2 40v dbw motors, C5 motors, fairly strong and less failure prone
-bhf, 40v mpi timing chain motor... smaller stroke, switched from chemical stripped (no coatings, that nikasil not alusil like audi uses) bores to mechincally stripped bores, higher silicon content, probably the weakest option to use
-32v 4.2 fsi timing chain motors, S5/Q7, forged internals, less issues with timing system/cylinder wall scoring, may be a good option for making power on stock internals
-32v 4.2 fsi t/c high rev, rs4/r8, similar to above but stronger to deal with the rpms, probably the best option
each block is different, same bore and bore spacing and similar materials but some are radically different.
if I were in your shoes I'd do a stock RS4 or RS6 motor, or a built bhf from JHM. There should be an RS6 motor for sale in the classifieds (AudiA4_20T), you'll need to work out the flywheel on either an rs4 or rs6 since they are 10 bolt (steveken was selling rs6 6mt conversion kits with a working flywheel)
just saw the latest post, from what I've found no Audi V8s have ever been sleeved (this will conflict with information in the 4.2 build thread but I've found no evidence). The motors have always been Alusil.
Another option to consider if you wanted to build a bhf yourself would be to get the bores nikasil coated, may give you more options for pistons (alusil limits you choices).
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